05 Chrysler T&C washer spray will only work with hood up and the hood down but not locked. Once locked the washer spray will not work. I tried crimping the small hose front left that that I thought might be the washer sprayer supply but the spray still worked with the hood up.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2005 Elantra and the fluid will not spray onto the windshield. The washer motor is good and the switch is new. What is the problem? Wipers work fine.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 Town & Country with 157,000 miles. The driver rear automatic sliding door will not work. You can hear the motor running but it doesn't totally close...so I open and close manually. I looked in Chrysler service manual...could this be a power latch assembly?? How hard would it be to replace myself. The rear hatch is the same way have to manually open/close...can hear motor and it goes through motions but doesn't open. ???? Then today the rear wiper wouldn't work....
View 12 Replies] have a 2001 Town & Country with 157,000 miles. The driver rear automatic sliding door will not work. You can hear the motor running but it doesn't totally close...so I open and close manually. I looked in Chrysler service manual...could this be a power latch assembly?? How hard would it be to replace myself. The rear hatch is the same way have to manually open/close...can hear motor and it goes through motions but doesn't open. ???? Then today the rear wiper wouldn't work....
View 3 RepliesI drive a 2005 Chrysler Town and Country with just over 47,000 miles. I noticed that during the last few days, when I start the car, the needles on the fuel, speedometer and temperature gauges go all the way up and then back down. After they finish moving, I then see the engine lights go on and off. Normally, when I start the car, just the engine lights go on and off. The movement of the needles on the gauges is new. This is now happening about every other time I start the car.
The car itself seems to be starting and running just fine. I haven’t noticed any drop off or change in performance. What could be causing this oddity? Is this a warning that something worse is about to happen?
I am about an hour and a half from home at my cousins when my oil light came on. It only comes on when I have come to a complete stop. Once I accelerate it goes away. I checked the dipstick and it is full. Here is my question: what do you think this could be and would it be safe to drive home to my trusted mechanic. The car has 160,000 miles on it.
View 5 Repliesi have a 2005 Town & Country that now won't turn over. When I just turn the key to the on position (not even to start) the gauges flip around, the odo flashes intermittently as if there's some kind of short, and i can hear a regular, repetitive clicking from an area behind the battery that sounds like an electrical relay of some sort trying to engage but failing. Short history that may be related: I recently replaced the blower motor resistor since the AC blower would stop after about 10 min of driving. (Btw, replacing the resistor worked for a while, then failed again, so something else is going on).
I had disconnected the battery when I replaced the resistor and then 5 days later the car wouldn't start. It's 2 year old battery, so I assumed there was corrosion on the terminal and I had not reconnected it tightly enough. At that time, a quick jumpstart got it going again. A couple days later, it wouldn't start again, would only "click" when turning the key (e.g. starter solenoid). Now, it won't even do that, just this repetitive relay sound and the "short-circuit" appearance on the gauges/readouts. At least it's in my garage!
I have a 2005 Chrysler town and country minivan. After filling it at the pump the van will go a short distance and die. It will have a hard time starting and then run fine, until I fill it again.
View 2 RepliesIntermittent brake warning light and steady ABS light. Master cylinder is full and parking brake is off. Had a problem last fall with ABS and found rear caliper sticking, so I replaced all rear pads, rotors and calipers. Front brakes look good and I couldn't find any loose connections on ABS sensors. Thinking possibility that master cylinder might be the problem, or maybe moisture in brake fluid, as it has been below freezing here in Wisconsin, but it hasn't gone away now that its been a bit warmer.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2006 Prius and the rear hatch washer fluid sprayer does not spray (wipers work fine). The front window fluid sprayer works fine and I'm told that they work off of the same motor/fuse and reservoir.
View 4 RepliesWhen I press the lever to spray washer fluid on the windshield none comes out. I hear the motor and the wipers work.
View 2 RepliesI have an '08 Lux wagon with rain sensing wipers and automatic headlights. When I spray the windshield with washer fluid, the wipers don't come on to wipe it away. This occurred today, and the wipers would not activate no matter what position I put the control stalk in. Then, after a few seconds, they came on and cleared the windshield. I have not noticed any other issues with the wipers. What might be going on here?
View 7 RepliesCurios problem with my car. When I spray washer fluid quickly the wipers do not start. I can literally empty litres of fluid on the windshield and they still will not activate. Now on other cars I have had you can play chicken and pull quickly on the lever and this I can do a off a couple of times without activating the wipers but not constantly. I had it in for service and the mechanic said he has never seen this problem before and does not even know how to fix it. It does get annoying that you have to waste a lot more fluid to activate the wipers "auto" function by holding it on a few seconds longer than needed.
View 7 RepliesI have an 04 F250 and the driver side windshield washer doesn't spray on the windshield. It sprays a stream up high on the windshield. Is it possible to replace the spigot where the spray comes out? Is there another solution?
View 7 RepliesMy windshield washer has recently just sprayed up about a foot.
Will adding some vinegar to the fluid and see if it will unclog?
Or does this just mean that my pump is giving up?
'99 F250 SD V10
This is my first car (09 le, 39k miles,"certified" used). Now this might sound stupid but a little while ago I was cleaning the engine bay and noticed i had some coolant spray all over my hood, I thought i had a cracked house but couldn't find anything, I also installed a trd radiator cap but I still have some coolant spray. is this normal?
View 14 RepliesOkay so 2007 F350 DWR here, I have a driver who hauls loads using the truck and a 25' gooseneck trailer. She's gone through the bullet proofing process at 80K miles, she now has 128K miles. I have a programmer to monitor temps, and do all required maintenance.
With that said, my driver reported last week that when under load and going up hills he got the white spray coming out from under the hood. See pics below, this is never really good of course but I want to believe its not catastrophic. Two weeks prior I changed out the thermostat and upper radiator hose and of course flushed and filled coolant, all was good - no hoses were loose, etc. Driver reports the truck did not overheat at any time.
Both ECT and EOT are within 10-12 degrees of each other, and did not go over 190 for me while driving around town the other day. There are no codes present, I cleaned the engine bay and drove and re-inspected but can't tell where the coolant is coming from as none appears to be leaking. Last note, I have to admit after driving for a day or two I had to fill the degas bottle up about 3/4 gallon of water. My questions is, what is the next step for me in the diagnostic process?
My Town & Country 07 shudders (best word I can use to describe the sensation) between 40-42 MPH. First repair place convinced me I need tie rods, did not resolve problem. Next place said I need struts and new tires but the problem is not solved. Why the van would do this shudder, rumble, whatever - but only at 40? If I rapidly accelerate, like getting on the highway, it doesn't happen.
View 3 RepliesWhen I had 67 miles on my 2013 Chrysler T&C Van it stalled and would not immediately restart. The Electronic Vehicle Information Center revealed both the coolant and engine oil temp was in excess of 300 degrees. After 15 minutes the temps were between 280 and 285. The engine started and I drove slowly the3 miles to my house and had it towed to the dealership the next day. Mechanic found the quick connect coolant line to 3rd seat heater was improperly installed at factory allowing 1 gallon plus of coolant to escape.
A mechanical engineer and a Chrysler mech ( not one from the dealership) advises it is just a matter of time until I have internal engine damage. Chrysler Owner Assistance Dept assigned a case mgr. She reported the van was repaired and operating properly because the coolant line was repaired. Their first offer was 1 months loan payment, which I refused.
I have a 2001 Chrysler Town and Country w/ 3.8L engine and 196,000 miles. Several years ago the transmission was rebuilt. Since then the speedometer was off 1-2 mph at 65 mph. I recently bought new tires and now the speedometer is off 2-3 mph at 65 mph. My question is: How do you calibrate the speedometer? I know all about the reset for a bouncing/stuck needle. That does not calibrate the scale. I've read about gear replacement and found the Hyper-Tech calibration programmer (which is not available for the 2001 T&C).
View 5 RepliesMy 2008 Chrysler Town & Country has, since it was 2 mos. old, had a "no-start" problem. This is not a stalling problem. It happens when the car is off and I try to turn it on. The problem is very sporadic (sometimes several times a day - I do lots of short drives - sometimes several times over the course of a few weeks, then no problems for months). When I turn the key in the ignition, all electrical components come on (dashboard lights, air, radio, etc.) but nothing happens with the engine (it does not make a sound). The dealer has replaced a computer component, the battery, the starter, the electronic keys but the problem always happens again (within a few days of it the "repair"). I usually have to turn the key 3-12 times (sometimes I take it out of the ignition, sometimes I pray!) and eventually the engine starts. Because the problem is sporadic, the dealer has not been able to replicate the problem (though they have, at times, had it for a week or more and even driven it as if it were their own, home at night, to work, to run errands). Although the car eventually starts, it is very problematic when I have to be somewhere and it takes 10 minutes (not to mention a lot of worrying) to get it started.
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