Chrysler - Towncountry :: 2005 - Intermittent Brake Warning - Steady ABS Lights?
Jan 6, 2013
Intermittent brake warning light and steady ABS light. Master cylinder is full and parking brake is off. Had a problem last fall with ABS and found rear caliper sticking, so I replaced all rear pads, rotors and calipers. Front brakes look good and I couldn't find any loose connections on ABS sensors. Thinking possibility that master cylinder might be the problem, or maybe moisture in brake fluid, as it has been below freezing here in Wisconsin, but it hasn't gone away now that its been a bit warmer.
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2007 Chrysler Town and Country, 123k.
It's had an intermittent airbag light for a few weeks now. When it does come on, it stays on until the car is shut off. When I turn it back on, sometimes it comes on and sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes it comes on at startup and sometimes it comes on in the middle of driving. I took it into the shop when the light was off and the shop said whatever's wrong with it, it wasn't storing the code and to run it back in when the light is on.
Since yesterday, the fuel has been overflowing at fill up. I get maybe a half gallon in and then it overflows. I can hear it glug-glugging in when I pull out the gas hose. The flap at the neck of the tank seems to have gone missing too.
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I was advised to replace my brake and power steering fluild at 40,000 by the Chrysler Dealer. Ever heard of this?
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I drive a 2005 Chrysler Town and Country with just over 47,000 miles. I noticed that during the last few days, when I start the car, the needles on the fuel, speedometer and temperature gauges go all the way up and then back down. After they finish moving, I then see the engine lights go on and off. Normally, when I start the car, just the engine lights go on and off. The movement of the needles on the gauges is new. This is now happening about every other time I start the car.
The car itself seems to be starting and running just fine. I haven’t noticed any drop off or change in performance. What could be causing this oddity? Is this a warning that something worse is about to happen?
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I am about an hour and a half from home at my cousins when my oil light came on. It only comes on when I have come to a complete stop. Once I accelerate it goes away. I checked the dipstick and it is full. Here is my question: what do you think this could be and would it be safe to drive home to my trusted mechanic. The car has 160,000 miles on it.
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i have a 2005 Town & Country that now won't turn over. When I just turn the key to the on position (not even to start) the gauges flip around, the odo flashes intermittently as if there's some kind of short, and i can hear a regular, repetitive clicking from an area behind the battery that sounds like an electrical relay of some sort trying to engage but failing. Short history that may be related: I recently replaced the blower motor resistor since the AC blower would stop after about 10 min of driving. (Btw, replacing the resistor worked for a while, then failed again, so something else is going on).
I had disconnected the battery when I replaced the resistor and then 5 days later the car wouldn't start. It's 2 year old battery, so I assumed there was corrosion on the terminal and I had not reconnected it tightly enough. At that time, a quick jumpstart got it going again. A couple days later, it wouldn't start again, would only "click" when turning the key (e.g. starter solenoid). Now, it won't even do that, just this repetitive relay sound and the "short-circuit" appearance on the gauges/readouts. At least it's in my garage!
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We have a 04 Town and County with about 97,000 miles on it. If we are sitting still for a period of time, it will drop into limp mode. You actually hear a clunk, then the shift indicator lights up ever gear PRND, they all appear with a box around them as indicated. It happens more often if the AC is running. Actually at stop lights we turn the AC off. It happened in line at a drive in movie once. After it sits for a bit it is fine. No issues going down the road. But it seems to happen if there is not movement.
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I have a 2009 town and country with 50k miles on it. It drove just fine, until I brought it to the dealer for the R03 recall on Friday, June 12th, 2015. Right after that, the engine sometimes shut off at the stop sign or red lights. Also, when I back from the parking, the car won't move forward after I shift from R to D - but it can still go backwards. It doesn't always act like that.
So I brought it back to the dealer. Their technician said it is unrelated to the recall, and after a week, they told me they couldn't find the exact reason, butsuggested me to replace the spark plugs and wires ($559.xx). Then we can start from there, which means I may need to replace other parts later on - as they weren't sure the exact cause.I don't like the idea of the first step - so I drove it home.
Supposedly, the R03 recall is to prevent the car from sudden shut-off. Is that just coincidence my car started to shut off right after the recall?
I also noticed that it is more likely to die if I brake harder - not 100% sure about this, maybe just illusion.
Did a test drive this morning(6/24). Shut off once out of 10 or so stop-signs. Did notice the RPM went down and up a little (-just a little) at idle.
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My 2001 Town and Country runs great but randomly dings most commonly on longer trips. For example this morning I drove 130 miles it did not ding until I had driven 40 miles and then it dinged again at 50, 55 and it gets increasingly closer together until by the time I got home it was dinging 15 or 20 times a minute. It is at random intervals. It has dinged non-stop. It does not seem to matter how fast I am going. There are no lights on, on the dash. It does not appear to be over heating. It doesn't seem to matter if I am going up hill or down hill or driving level. It doesn't matter how much fuel I have. As it increases in frequency sometimes it will ding once while other times it will ding 2 or 3 times quickly. I am trying monitor different variables but it feels random except it typically starts around 40 to 50 miles into a trip but it has started dinging immediately when I first started it for the day. Sometimes it doesn't happen at all on long trip or it only happens once or twice but never progresses in frequency. I recently drove 250 miles and it only dinged once at about 230 miles and not again.
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I have a 2005 Chrysler town and country minivan. After filling it at the pump the van will go a short distance and die. It will have a hard time starting and then run fine, until I fill it again.
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05 Chrysler T&C washer spray will only work with hood up and the hood down but not locked. Once locked the washer spray will not work. I tried crimping the small hose front left that that I thought might be the washer sprayer supply but the spray still worked with the hood up.
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My 2005 Prius with 116K on it has been having some uneven acceleration lately and today the Triangle warning light, the check engine light and the brake light came on at the same time. I had about 1/2 mile to go, so I proceeded slowly and called the dealership which had performed a routine oil chg two days ago. They said that if the lights weren't flashing then I could drive it. They recommended that I take it to AUTO ZONE and put it on the analyzer. This elicited these codes: P3019: no definition and P0A80: replace Hybrid Battery.
I have an appointment in 2 days and I'm wondering about a salvage HV battery since the car is 7 yrs old and over 116K miles.
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Had the low tire light indicating a tire has low pressure, which I have had happen before and so inflate all tires from 38 to 40 lbs each. After a few tire rotations, lamp extinguishes. Except this time it doesn't. It blinks for a minute then lights steady.
Any way to reset it (didn't find anything in owners manual) or tell if its the sensor in a tire or the sensor element on car? Either way suppose will be a visit to Toyota repair. Oh well, first real visit for a problem in six years (other than for recalls), other than headlight replacements and oil changes.
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My Town & Country 07 shudders (best word I can use to describe the sensation) between 40-42 MPH. First repair place convinced me I need tie rods, did not resolve problem. Next place said I need struts and new tires but the problem is not solved. Why the van would do this shudder, rumble, whatever - but only at 40? If I rapidly accelerate, like getting on the highway, it doesn't happen.
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I have 2006 Pt. Cruiser Touring with 150,000 miles on it. It has been well cared for with oil changes, tire rotations, tune ups, and preventative maintenance done regularly.
My problem is this. Sometimes when I drive the vehicle, all the warning lights on the dash board will light up, and all the gauges go dead. But the car keeps running and does not decelerate or lose power. The lights shut off within 3-6 seconds, with the seat belt lights being the last to go out. I have paid over $600 dollars for 6 hook ups to the computer at the dealer with no codes showing.
I have just replaced the belts, cam & crank sensors, spark plugs, spark plug wires, battery, alternator, hoses, water pump, timing belt, and it still does this. This morning when driving to an appointment, it did this again 3 times within 5 minutes. I had activated the cruise control when it did this. When I turned the cruise control off, it did not do it again. But in the past, this has happened when I was not using the cruise control. And it happens at all speeds, 60, 20, 35, or 40 MPH. What is wrong with my car.
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When I had 67 miles on my 2013 Chrysler T&C Van it stalled and would not immediately restart. The Electronic Vehicle Information Center revealed both the coolant and engine oil temp was in excess of 300 degrees. After 15 minutes the temps were between 280 and 285. The engine started and I drove slowly the3 miles to my house and had it towed to the dealership the next day. Mechanic found the quick connect coolant line to 3rd seat heater was improperly installed at factory allowing 1 gallon plus of coolant to escape.
A mechanical engineer and a Chrysler mech ( not one from the dealership) advises it is just a matter of time until I have internal engine damage. Chrysler Owner Assistance Dept assigned a case mgr. She reported the van was repaired and operating properly because the coolant line was repaired. Their first offer was 1 months loan payment, which I refused.
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I have a 2001 Chrysler Town and Country w/ 3.8L engine and 196,000 miles. Several years ago the transmission was rebuilt. Since then the speedometer was off 1-2 mph at 65 mph. I recently bought new tires and now the speedometer is off 2-3 mph at 65 mph. My question is: How do you calibrate the speedometer? I know all about the reset for a bouncing/stuck needle. That does not calibrate the scale. I've read about gear replacement and found the Hyper-Tech calibration programmer (which is not available for the 2001 T&C).
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My 2008 Chrysler Town & Country has, since it was 2 mos. old, had a "no-start" problem. This is not a stalling problem. It happens when the car is off and I try to turn it on. The problem is very sporadic (sometimes several times a day - I do lots of short drives - sometimes several times over the course of a few weeks, then no problems for months). When I turn the key in the ignition, all electrical components come on (dashboard lights, air, radio, etc.) but nothing happens with the engine (it does not make a sound). The dealer has replaced a computer component, the battery, the starter, the electronic keys but the problem always happens again (within a few days of it the "repair"). I usually have to turn the key 3-12 times (sometimes I take it out of the ignition, sometimes I pray!) and eventually the engine starts. Because the problem is sporadic, the dealer has not been able to replicate the problem (though they have, at times, had it for a week or more and even driven it as if it were their own, home at night, to work, to run errands). Although the car eventually starts, it is very problematic when I have to be somewhere and it takes 10 minutes (not to mention a lot of worrying) to get it started.
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my daughter has a 2005 Chrysler minivan -- v 6 automatic -- the transmission will not lock in park -- it free wheels -- only stops moving when emergency break is applied --the wheels will move separately -- will not move the other wheel when in park -- if picked up one wheel -- and in park -- it still moves -- there is a gear that is rubbing the cover in back of transmission -- the upper gear iseems loose -- and wobbly -- is there a simple repair there
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This car has 145K and transmission was replaced 3 years ago with used one that had 75K at 105K. Since replacement 3 yrs ago it runs great in the winter, when cold and no humidity, and runs extremely bad when it is warm and humid. This summer was hot with no humidity (in Kansas) and ran great. Now with fall and humidity back it is acting up again. The rpm's will show a jump up and down (300-500 rpm) while driving at 55mph or slower and do the same while at a stop light. At 70-75 the rpm's do not change but you can sure feel it at 55mph not looking at the rpm's move. The dealership has put it on the computer and it shows nothing. It clunks and thuds when driving slowly and sounds hard on the vehicle.
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have a 1999 town and country that wont start from time to time. some times it starts right up and starts right up for months.some times starts and then go to start it again it just won't start . dosent even make a sound. all the lights and radio etc. working, and its been to numerous times to the repair shop. each time at the repair shop it starts right up and when they put it on the diagnostic computer , the diagnostics says nothing is wrong.
it's a brand new battery, and when we took the battery to the auto parts store they checked it and said the battery is charging and then discharging in a cycle.just got back from the chrysler dealer repair and they put the diagnostic computure on it and it says nothing is wrong.
i live in tucson, az and when the temp is 105F outside and i buy ice and frozen things is when the town and country decides it dosent wanta start
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