Chrysler - Towncountry :: 2005 - Gauge Needles Move Up And Down When Car Started
Sep 15, 2011
I drive a 2005 Chrysler Town and Country with just over 47,000 miles. I noticed that during the last few days, when I start the car, the needles on the fuel, speedometer and temperature gauges go all the way up and then back down. After they finish moving, I then see the engine lights go on and off. Normally, when I start the car, just the engine lights go on and off. The movement of the needles on the gauges is new. This is now happening about every other time I start the car.
The car itself seems to be starting and running just fine. I haven’t noticed any drop off or change in performance. What could be causing this oddity? Is this a warning that something worse is about to happen?
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I have a 2005 mkiv GLI and my gas gauge, temp gauge, and information display stopped working when the car is running. They work when the car is on auxiliary but not while it's running. The lights all work on the cluster all the time but the needles don't move as soon as the car turns on.
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While driving idle seemed to increase. Noticed at red lite where van seemed to want to move forward with brakes applied. Went to parking lot put van in park engine RPM rose to around 2500 RPM on it's own. Opened hood and fiddled around with a wire???/hose thing near the throttle control line (wire that connects foot piece to engine). A bunch of black powder (carbon?) fell out. Turned the van off then back on a couple of times. On the third time idle returned to normal and has operated normal since. What caused this? What do I tell my mechanic? What was the wire/tube thing (it entered what I assume is the air intake at a right angle) right in front of where the wire from the foot control hooks up.
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I have a 2002 chrysler town and country van. The check eng. light came on about 6mths ago but did not affect the way it ran, but tonight my wife was driving in it after filling the gas and started to sputter slow at slow speeds and really sputters at higher speeds. should i be looking for water in the fuel.
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I am about an hour and a half from home at my cousins when my oil light came on. It only comes on when I have come to a complete stop. Once I accelerate it goes away. I checked the dipstick and it is full. Here is my question: what do you think this could be and would it be safe to drive home to my trusted mechanic. The car has 160,000 miles on it.
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i have a 2005 Town & Country that now won't turn over. When I just turn the key to the on position (not even to start) the gauges flip around, the odo flashes intermittently as if there's some kind of short, and i can hear a regular, repetitive clicking from an area behind the battery that sounds like an electrical relay of some sort trying to engage but failing. Short history that may be related: I recently replaced the blower motor resistor since the AC blower would stop after about 10 min of driving. (Btw, replacing the resistor worked for a while, then failed again, so something else is going on).
I had disconnected the battery when I replaced the resistor and then 5 days later the car wouldn't start. It's 2 year old battery, so I assumed there was corrosion on the terminal and I had not reconnected it tightly enough. At that time, a quick jumpstart got it going again. A couple days later, it wouldn't start again, would only "click" when turning the key (e.g. starter solenoid). Now, it won't even do that, just this repetitive relay sound and the "short-circuit" appearance on the gauges/readouts. At least it's in my garage!
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I have a 2005 Chrysler town and country minivan. After filling it at the pump the van will go a short distance and die. It will have a hard time starting and then run fine, until I fill it again.
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05 Chrysler T&C washer spray will only work with hood up and the hood down but not locked. Once locked the washer spray will not work. I tried crimping the small hose front left that that I thought might be the washer sprayer supply but the spray still worked with the hood up.
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Intermittent brake warning light and steady ABS light. Master cylinder is full and parking brake is off. Had a problem last fall with ABS and found rear caliper sticking, so I replaced all rear pads, rotors and calipers. Front brakes look good and I couldn't find any loose connections on ABS sensors. Thinking possibility that master cylinder might be the problem, or maybe moisture in brake fluid, as it has been below freezing here in Wisconsin, but it hasn't gone away now that its been a bit warmer.
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I have a 2005 v6 ford mustang with 134,300 miles on it. About three weeks ago the fuel gauge started to misread and now it doesn't move at all and it dose have gas. Two days ago the check light came on so I connected to to a code scanner and it gave me the code P0460. Under the code it gave a short discretion, (Fuel level sensor A circuit). What issue might be?
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Replaced the ac compressor/filter dryer/exp block on 04 dodge grand caravan. pulled vac for 45 min, let sit for 1hr. No movement of needles no leaks. charged system to 2.69, start van turn on ac compress clutch engaged but will not cycle off stays engaged. Air temp from vents 60 to 65 deg, low side 55 psi high side 250 psi at 85 deg air temp needles do not move up or down stay steady. high side hose from compress very hot ( burned hand on it ) low side hose to compress warm/cool.
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At idle temperature is above middle. Upper radiator hose, which is connected to the thermostat is hot. Lower radiator hose that feeds back to the engine is cold. Radiator fan will not stop running if the temp guage is at middle to needle above middle. When running the temperature reading is normal at 30 mi/hr (middle to just below middle). Temperature will also go down if at high rpm idle, about 2,500 RPM.
New thermostat replaced last week. Water pump replaced less than one year ago. Upper radiator and lower radiator hoses are pressurized when running and off.
I suspect the thermostat was installed incorrectly. Pressurized hoses mean excess air in the cooling circuit/system. If so, does it mean I have to bleed out the air? How do you bleed out the air on a cooling circuit of a car, I thought the reservoir tank already does that naturally? I think the normal range for the temp guage should be 1/3 of the whole range of the guage, right?
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How do I get my gauge needles to run a cycle on start up? It is even possible?
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I have a 1999 F-150 with a 4.2L V6. I went out to start the truck this morning and when I powered on the ignition the needles on all the gauges and lights were normal. When the chiming stopped, I turned the key to crank the engine. I heard one click and nothing. Then I noticed all the gauge needles peg out on max, then back to zero. No power at all and nothing. Engine will not do anything. I turn the key to the off position and hear a faint beep coming from under the dash. Not a chime, but a beeping sound. The battery is about 4 months old and the starter is about 2 months old. The engine was bad in the truck when I bought it and I replaced the engine about 2 months ago. It has been running just fine up until this morning. Could the battery be bad? I also have installed new battery cable ends and checked all the connections at the starter.
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It's a 2005 Chrysler Sebring with a 2.4 DOHC. A couple weeks ago I tried to use the wipers and nothing happened - at all. The next day the gauges inside the car went hay wire, started flashing on and off. Turned out the car needed a new battery and alternator. Replaced both and the car has been perfectly fine - except for the wipers. I checked the wiper fuse and it wasn't blown so I pulled the cowl, unplugged the motor, turned the key on, turned the wiper switch to full speed and then tested for voltage at the plug and got almost 12 volts when testing several terminal combinations.
I thought for sure I had it figured out so went ahead and bought a remanufactured wiper motor but nothing happened when I plugged it in. I thought maybe since I didn't mount it it wasn't grounded so went ahead and did that and still nothing. Thinking maybe it was defective I returned it and went to a different auto parts store and bought another one, hooked it up and got the same results. So then I tested all nine relays in the relay control center and they all passed. So now I'm thinking the only thing left to test is the wiper switch. Am I correct?
And also I'd love to bench test the original motor just to verify that it works but don't know which terminals to connect to. I've searched the internet with two different browsers and came up with nothing. The motor in question is a Bosch 05-02-14 41. And then underneath it has 0390 241 7411 12V 058 written on it. The terminals are labeled: 31b, 31, 53 and 53b. And since the OE replacement motor for this car is a Cardone 40-3026, which terminals to use to bench test that one, I could then figure out which terminals to use on the Bosch.
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I am going down the highway at 70-75 mph listening to music I look down and see my gauge needles sweeping across the faces of the gauges. The heads up display resets. Nothing else in the car changes radio keeps playing, speed doesn't change. Nothing else changed.
Mods that have affected electrical system:
Interior LEDs (front dome, rear dome, footwell lights, glove box and trunk)
1 JL 10 inch sub with JL 900/5 amp
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2004 F150 Supercrew
44400 miles
So I turned on my truck today and the needles acted as if they were possesed. The went under the "starting points" and vibrated there for about 5 seconds or so... Very strange. I also have been getting sluggish power from the truck. Mainly between 2000 and 3000 rpms.. Sound like a diesel at times.
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My Town & Country 07 shudders (best word I can use to describe the sensation) between 40-42 MPH. First repair place convinced me I need tie rods, did not resolve problem. Next place said I need struts and new tires but the problem is not solved. Why the van would do this shudder, rumble, whatever - but only at 40? If I rapidly accelerate, like getting on the highway, it doesn't happen.
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When I had 67 miles on my 2013 Chrysler T&C Van it stalled and would not immediately restart. The Electronic Vehicle Information Center revealed both the coolant and engine oil temp was in excess of 300 degrees. After 15 minutes the temps were between 280 and 285. The engine started and I drove slowly the3 miles to my house and had it towed to the dealership the next day. Mechanic found the quick connect coolant line to 3rd seat heater was improperly installed at factory allowing 1 gallon plus of coolant to escape.
A mechanical engineer and a Chrysler mech ( not one from the dealership) advises it is just a matter of time until I have internal engine damage. Chrysler Owner Assistance Dept assigned a case mgr. She reported the van was repaired and operating properly because the coolant line was repaired. Their first offer was 1 months loan payment, which I refused.
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I have a 2001 Chrysler Town and Country w/ 3.8L engine and 196,000 miles. Several years ago the transmission was rebuilt. Since then the speedometer was off 1-2 mph at 65 mph. I recently bought new tires and now the speedometer is off 2-3 mph at 65 mph. My question is: How do you calibrate the speedometer? I know all about the reset for a bouncing/stuck needle. That does not calibrate the scale. I've read about gear replacement and found the Hyper-Tech calibration programmer (which is not available for the 2001 T&C).
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My 2008 Chrysler Town & Country has, since it was 2 mos. old, had a "no-start" problem. This is not a stalling problem. It happens when the car is off and I try to turn it on. The problem is very sporadic (sometimes several times a day - I do lots of short drives - sometimes several times over the course of a few weeks, then no problems for months). When I turn the key in the ignition, all electrical components come on (dashboard lights, air, radio, etc.) but nothing happens with the engine (it does not make a sound). The dealer has replaced a computer component, the battery, the starter, the electronic keys but the problem always happens again (within a few days of it the "repair"). I usually have to turn the key 3-12 times (sometimes I take it out of the ignition, sometimes I pray!) and eventually the engine starts. Because the problem is sporadic, the dealer has not been able to replicate the problem (though they have, at times, had it for a week or more and even driven it as if it were their own, home at night, to work, to run errands). Although the car eventually starts, it is very problematic when I have to be somewhere and it takes 10 minutes (not to mention a lot of worrying) to get it started.
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