Chrysler - Towncountry :: 2001 - Calibrating The Speedometer?
Sep 25, 2013
I have a 2001 Chrysler Town and Country w/ 3.8L engine and 196,000 miles. Several years ago the transmission was rebuilt. Since then the speedometer was off 1-2 mph at 65 mph. I recently bought new tires and now the speedometer is off 2-3 mph at 65 mph. My question is: How do you calibrate the speedometer? I know all about the reset for a bouncing/stuck needle. That does not calibrate the scale. I've read about gear replacement and found the Hyper-Tech calibration programmer (which is not available for the 2001 T&C).
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2002 Chrysler Town and Country. My speedometer jumps wildly and then goes clockwise and rest without working. The trany hesitates and has a jerking when sitting in drive, and slow to shift into 2nd gear. We have replaced speed sensors, wiring and connectors, and now are thinking the chassis control box may be next.
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My 2001 Town and Country runs great but randomly dings most commonly on longer trips. For example this morning I drove 130 miles it did not ding until I had driven 40 miles and then it dinged again at 50, 55 and it gets increasingly closer together until by the time I got home it was dinging 15 or 20 times a minute. It is at random intervals. It has dinged non-stop. It does not seem to matter how fast I am going. There are no lights on, on the dash. It does not appear to be over heating. It doesn't seem to matter if I am going up hill or down hill or driving level. It doesn't matter how much fuel I have. As it increases in frequency sometimes it will ding once while other times it will ding 2 or 3 times quickly. I am trying monitor different variables but it feels random except it typically starts around 40 to 50 miles into a trip but it has started dinging immediately when I first started it for the day. Sometimes it doesn't happen at all on long trip or it only happens once or twice but never progresses in frequency. I recently drove 250 miles and it only dinged once at about 230 miles and not again.
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I have a 2001 Town & Country with 157,000 miles. The driver rear automatic sliding door will not work. You can hear the motor running but it doesn't totally close...so I open and close manually. I looked in Chrysler service manual...could this be a power latch assembly?? How hard would it be to replace myself. The rear hatch is the same way have to manually open/close...can hear motor and it goes through motions but doesn't open. ???? Then today the rear wiper wouldn't work....
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] have a 2001 Town & Country with 157,000 miles. The driver rear automatic sliding door will not work. You can hear the motor running but it doesn't totally close...so I open and close manually. I looked in Chrysler service manual...could this be a power latch assembly?? How hard would it be to replace myself. The rear hatch is the same way have to manually open/close...can hear motor and it goes through motions but doesn't open. ???? Then today the rear wiper wouldn't work....
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My Town & Country 07 shudders (best word I can use to describe the sensation) between 40-42 MPH. First repair place convinced me I need tie rods, did not resolve problem. Next place said I need struts and new tires but the problem is not solved. Why the van would do this shudder, rumble, whatever - but only at 40? If I rapidly accelerate, like getting on the highway, it doesn't happen.
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When I had 67 miles on my 2013 Chrysler T&C Van it stalled and would not immediately restart. The Electronic Vehicle Information Center revealed both the coolant and engine oil temp was in excess of 300 degrees. After 15 minutes the temps were between 280 and 285. The engine started and I drove slowly the3 miles to my house and had it towed to the dealership the next day. Mechanic found the quick connect coolant line to 3rd seat heater was improperly installed at factory allowing 1 gallon plus of coolant to escape.
A mechanical engineer and a Chrysler mech ( not one from the dealership) advises it is just a matter of time until I have internal engine damage. Chrysler Owner Assistance Dept assigned a case mgr. She reported the van was repaired and operating properly because the coolant line was repaired. Their first offer was 1 months loan payment, which I refused.
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My 2008 Chrysler Town & Country has, since it was 2 mos. old, had a "no-start" problem. This is not a stalling problem. It happens when the car is off and I try to turn it on. The problem is very sporadic (sometimes several times a day - I do lots of short drives - sometimes several times over the course of a few weeks, then no problems for months). When I turn the key in the ignition, all electrical components come on (dashboard lights, air, radio, etc.) but nothing happens with the engine (it does not make a sound). The dealer has replaced a computer component, the battery, the starter, the electronic keys but the problem always happens again (within a few days of it the "repair"). I usually have to turn the key 3-12 times (sometimes I take it out of the ignition, sometimes I pray!) and eventually the engine starts. Because the problem is sporadic, the dealer has not been able to replicate the problem (though they have, at times, had it for a week or more and even driven it as if it were their own, home at night, to work, to run errands). Although the car eventually starts, it is very problematic when I have to be somewhere and it takes 10 minutes (not to mention a lot of worrying) to get it started.
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my daughter has a 2005 Chrysler minivan -- v 6 automatic -- the transmission will not lock in park -- it free wheels -- only stops moving when emergency break is applied --the wheels will move separately -- will not move the other wheel when in park -- if picked up one wheel -- and in park -- it still moves -- there is a gear that is rubbing the cover in back of transmission -- the upper gear iseems loose -- and wobbly -- is there a simple repair there
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This car has 145K and transmission was replaced 3 years ago with used one that had 75K at 105K. Since replacement 3 yrs ago it runs great in the winter, when cold and no humidity, and runs extremely bad when it is warm and humid. This summer was hot with no humidity (in Kansas) and ran great. Now with fall and humidity back it is acting up again. The rpm's will show a jump up and down (300-500 rpm) while driving at 55mph or slower and do the same while at a stop light. At 70-75 the rpm's do not change but you can sure feel it at 55mph not looking at the rpm's move. The dealership has put it on the computer and it shows nothing. It clunks and thuds when driving slowly and sounds hard on the vehicle.
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have a 1999 town and country that wont start from time to time. some times it starts right up and starts right up for months.some times starts and then go to start it again it just won't start . dosent even make a sound. all the lights and radio etc. working, and its been to numerous times to the repair shop. each time at the repair shop it starts right up and when they put it on the diagnostic computer , the diagnostics says nothing is wrong.
it's a brand new battery, and when we took the battery to the auto parts store they checked it and said the battery is charging and then discharging in a cycle.just got back from the chrysler dealer repair and they put the diagnostic computure on it and it says nothing is wrong.
i live in tucson, az and when the temp is 105F outside and i buy ice and frozen things is when the town and country decides it dosent wanta start
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I have A 2012 Chrysler T&C purchased new Sept. 2012. At times heat comes from one side and cold from the other. Varies which side is cold or hot. Had problem from start and Chrysler said was working on solution. Had back to dealer many times with no fix. Warm weather came, no problem. Cold weather now here and same problem. Chrysler's fix was turn heat control all the way up then back down.
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I have a 1999 Town and Country van, 3.8L engine. It has 220K miles on it. Lately, when I am accelerating, it seems to do fine until I get to 40-55 mph. In that range, it stutters a bit. After that it runs fine, even at higher speeds. I usually don't get this stuttering at the lower speeds as I am, for example, accelerating to get on a highway. A mechanic friend of mine says that it may be a vac leak. Does this sound right, or are there other possibilities.
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After driving I place car in Park, try to turn key to off. Will only go to Accessory position. Suggestions have been shifter, wheel lock. Dealer said they need to replace the shifter. Re-shifting into park does not work, turning wheel does not work. Have discovered that if I turn the key to the accessory position, wait & listen, I hear a distinct CLICK (like the sound an old solenoid would have made) and the key will go to off and can be removed. Early in the morning this can take 20 seconds. Later in the day some unknown number of minutes. Luckily I can leave the car with the key in it without fear of someone taking the car. I have even recorded the sound and have attached the sound file here It happens about 13 seconds in.
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It stalls when approaching intersections, and sometimes in traffic, always can be restarted, have had battery changed, fuel system checks out. have left at the garage and they can never get it to stall, but it still does it and sometimes three or four times during the day. Have not been to dealer, am frustrated and afraid of getting in accident. What might be causing this?
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I live near Buffalo NY and we get a lot of thick hard ice on our windshields. My Town & Country minivan has a huge windshield and takes a long time to warm up. I have been using a pail of hot water to take the ice off my windshield. Everyone I have told about this is appalled, they insist it will crack the windshield. I have been doing this for quite a while with no cracks.
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Is there a good way to relieve static electricity? I get a shock almost every time I get out of my van and close the door.
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I own a 2003 Chrysler town and country. I was driving home and all of a sudden the car just shut off. I coasted to the side of the road and tried to restart and nothing. The warning signals( i.e., seat belt etc.) came on normal but when I turned the key nothing no sound. I have no clue as to what is wrong with it. Had it towed home and here it sits.
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I have a 2007 Chrysler T & C minivan. The engine cuts off while driving. Most frequently while turning (to the right!). My mechanic found a loose battery terminal. Nope. Next he suspected the ignition switch which has been a problem with other model years. Nope. Now he wants to try the cam shaft? What could cause it to just die during a right turn? and very frequently.
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The dashboard display on my 1998 Chrysler Town and Country fails intermittently. There are no readings for Fuel, Oil Temperature, speed or odometer. This condition comes and goes. My mechanic has tried every thing he knows and now says he has to replace the entire system?
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My 1991 Town & Country will sporadically fail to start. e.g. I start and drive the vehicle,( this may be a short distance or a longer distance) I stop somewhere, I go to start the vehicle and nothing. No amount of tinkering will cause it to once again start. I wait for maybe 10 to 20 minutes and it starts. (Sometimes this can actually take many hours.) Seems to be worse when the weather is very hot. (What I know: There is fuel at the fuel rail. I have used a gauge and the pressure is correct at the fuel rail. There is no power whatsoever at the coil packs yet the Automatic Shutdown Relay is working correctly.) I have replaced the PCM and still the same problem. One time I started the vehicle, drove 200 feet and it stalled out completely. That just happened the one time. Finally, It seems to have gotten more frequent in its stalling behavior.
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