Chrysler - Towncountry :: 2001 - Automatic Sliding Door / Rear Hatch Won't Work?
Jan 3, 2014
] have a 2001 Town & Country with 157,000 miles. The driver rear automatic sliding door will not work. You can hear the motor running but it doesn't totally close...so I open and close manually. I looked in Chrysler service manual...could this be a power latch assembly?? How hard would it be to replace myself. The rear hatch is the same way have to manually open/close...can hear motor and it goes through motions but doesn't open. ???? Then today the rear wiper wouldn't work....
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I have a 2001 Town & Country with 157,000 miles. The driver rear automatic sliding door will not work. You can hear the motor running but it doesn't totally close...so I open and close manually. I looked in Chrysler service manual...could this be a power latch assembly?? How hard would it be to replace myself. The rear hatch is the same way have to manually open/close...can hear motor and it goes through motions but doesn't open. ???? Then today the rear wiper wouldn't work....
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We are currently driving home, and our Chrysler Town & Country's rear hatch door won't unlock and open, by key or handle, so our suitcases are trapped in back. We don't know if there's an easy fix, but we won't get home until Sunday, when our mechanic is closed. We'd like to unpack!
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05 Chrysler T&C washer spray will only work with hood up and the hood down but not locked. Once locked the washer spray will not work. I tried crimping the small hose front left that that I thought might be the washer sprayer supply but the spray still worked with the hood up.
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Is there a good way to relieve static electricity? I get a shock almost every time I get out of my van and close the door.
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Why do my wipers pop up about 2" each time the horn blows when the door is opened? They don't pop up if the car is running and I blow the horn myself. My local Chrysler service center has attempted to fix the problem twice without success. Once by replacing the door harness and then by replacing the multifunction switch. The problem is still there and my warranty is running out!
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How do I access the wiring connector for a driver side door mirror on a 2003 Chrysler Town & Country van? I thought a door mirror replacement would be a simple task.
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I am having problems with the rear hatch door not unlocking easily, have to lock and unlock multiple times before it releases. I have stripped and lubricated it and it works fine for a day. Also having issues with petrol cover release not working as well.
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The rear door hatch on my 2002 Sante fe is not working. The Latch freezes in position to the handle and does not release or rebound back to the normal position, the door remains locked. I have taken the inner door cover apart,lubricated working controls and checked for any broken items.
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I have a 2001 Chrysler Town and Country w/ 3.8L engine and 196,000 miles. Several years ago the transmission was rebuilt. Since then the speedometer was off 1-2 mph at 65 mph. I recently bought new tires and now the speedometer is off 2-3 mph at 65 mph. My question is: How do you calibrate the speedometer? I know all about the reset for a bouncing/stuck needle. That does not calibrate the scale. I've read about gear replacement and found the Hyper-Tech calibration programmer (which is not available for the 2001 T&C).
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My 2001 Town and Country runs great but randomly dings most commonly on longer trips. For example this morning I drove 130 miles it did not ding until I had driven 40 miles and then it dinged again at 50, 55 and it gets increasingly closer together until by the time I got home it was dinging 15 or 20 times a minute. It is at random intervals. It has dinged non-stop. It does not seem to matter how fast I am going. There are no lights on, on the dash. It does not appear to be over heating. It doesn't seem to matter if I am going up hill or down hill or driving level. It doesn't matter how much fuel I have. As it increases in frequency sometimes it will ding once while other times it will ding 2 or 3 times quickly. I am trying monitor different variables but it feels random except it typically starts around 40 to 50 miles into a trip but it has started dinging immediately when I first started it for the day. Sometimes it doesn't happen at all on long trip or it only happens once or twice but never progresses in frequency. I recently drove 250 miles and it only dinged once at about 230 miles and not again.
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My rear defroster on my sliding glass window doesn't work all the time. I make sure the window is completely closed. It sometimes comes on and other times it doesn't. Sometimes it comes on and immediately shuts off. The dealership says I will need a new window. The truck is 7 months out of warranty. I think a $52,000 truck should have a rear defroster that works a heck of a lot longer than 43 months, especially when it has only been used 3 times since I bought it. Is this a problem that any of you have experienced with you F-150's ? I love my truck and will live with the rear defroster not working before I replace it. I just feel that Ford should have better quality than that.
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04 V8 Touareg. The switch for both the fuel hatch and rear hatch dont work. They worked the other day. I checked all the fuses and everything looks good there. I had disassemble the right rear interior panel to remove the CD changer to get at the manual release lever for the fuel hatch.
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Weather is getting colder and I need defrost every morning. Rear defrost doesn't work, and I found this when I opened up the rear body panels
Driver Side
Passenger Side
I cleaned both sides on the loose contact with sandpaper, cleaned with alcohol, and then superglued back together. Will the superglue allow enough electrical contact for it to work? Is there a better adhesive or way to fix? I want it to fully cure/dry before I fire up. Hopefully in the morning my fix works.
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I just had my treg serviced. One of the tsb's performed was the remote antenna fix. Range is much improved but one problem; the center button on the key remote which used to open the rear hatch doesn't work anymore. Now when pressed, the lights flash and the hatch does not open. I checked the comfort settings and they are still set at unlock doors and hatch.
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Chrysler 1998 Lebaron. The door locks will run constantly, they go up and down when driving and when parked, the same with the lights...now finding that in the middle of the night the car alarm is going off for no reason...also finding that the dome light will not shut off
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2001 F150 Supercrew Lariat, the back window is the factory sliding window, it is leaking around the top on the drivers side, leaks bad. Question is how easy is it to remove the window and replace the seal?
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I have had this problem for a while now, but can't seem to figure it out. I'm sure it's an electrical issue, but I'm not that great with electrical. My turn signals don't click when I push the handle in either direction. The turn signals come on and stay on but don't blink like they should. I checked the lights in the front and back and they just stay on but don't blink. Also my hazards don't blink. They just stay on and don't make clicking noise either. My horn doesn't work and my door doesn't ding with the key still in the ignition but in the off position. I don't know of it's all related or different issues.
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I'm still trying to get a feel for the car and I've noticed that I have to slam the hatch door in order to get the sensor to turn off. I'm hoping I can adjust the sensor or latch. Thought I'd post this while I'm free to do so. its not really a big deal. I'm just curious what others have to say about it since I'm new to Passat wagons.
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My 2002 Santa Fe Back Hatch Door will not open. I have removed the inside panel & all the linkage seems to work OK. But the main latch will not let go & I cannot see where to trip it. How I can get it opened, just can't see where to trip it but believe it can be done from inside.
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My Town & Country 07 shudders (best word I can use to describe the sensation) between 40-42 MPH. First repair place convinced me I need tie rods, did not resolve problem. Next place said I need struts and new tires but the problem is not solved. Why the van would do this shudder, rumble, whatever - but only at 40? If I rapidly accelerate, like getting on the highway, it doesn't happen.
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