Chrysler - Towncountry :: 1997 - Service Engine Soon Light Turned On / Codes P0700 And P1775
Jul 3, 2013
Yesterday afternoon the "Service Engine Soon" light turned on in our '97 Town & Country (3.8L engine). A few minutes later (while I headed to Autozone to get the code read) the light went out. They were still able to retrieve 2 codes: P0700 and P1775. Internet searches suggest a possible bad solenoid pack for the transmission.
More background: The van has 161,000 miles, and the original owners got the transmission replaced at 40,000 miles under warranty (4 speed automatic). The transmission fluid was replaced (pan drop method) at about 153,000 miles and at 112,000 miles, etc., with Chrysler ATF +4 fluid. The van got new plugs and wires about 15,000 miles ago. (It also got a new radiator and hoses yesterday morning which I think is unrelated.) Another possible clue: On long trips sometimes the 2nd transmission shift will become slightly rough but it still shifts and after it has rested everything returns to normal. This occasional shifting issue has been going on for over 5 years and again when it manifests itself it is very slight.
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I am the second owner of a 97 Cherokee 4.0 2wd. My overdrive works now and then. my check engine light is on. I had it scanned it throws 2 codes. p0700 and p0705. It has 147k and we already replaced the entire cooling system including flushing the engine and system thoroughly . Now it has been sitting for nearly 2yrs. just not sure what direction to go.
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I have had a check engine light go on and off with P0700 and P0741 but since the flush day 3 it hasnt come back on and it was chucking with rpm doing small jumps... but now it does it in the mornings after sitting all night after a few chucks its fine for the rest of the day til the next day no check engine light so far, but transmission flush has worked a lot not as bad as before the flush.. So what else could be causing it? Its a 2006 hyundai santa fe with 274,000 kms.
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2001 F150 5.4L Triton Motor. Everything seemed o.k. then got the Engine Service Light. Checked with reader and above codes only appeared. Read numerous articles/videos and pulled the PCV hose/boot assembly and replaced the whole thing with oem part. Visually checked for disconnected tubing = none found. After this and with the new hose assembly in place I performed a reset. With the scanner still connected restarted engine and read values: ST FTRM1&2 = -.08~+2.3, both oxygen sensor voltages are varying and the LT FTRM1&2 hang around +26 and +28.
From what I understand the ST seems o.k. but the long term is WAY OUT OF WHACK. Started it up again and took carb cleaner spray and covered all the connections I could see = no change in engine rpm. No cracks in the air cleaner body. Big plug to the MAF was inserted and plugging the hole. I am thinking of making a smoke "machine" and trying that or removing the hoses from the throttle body and plugging the holes in the throttle body and see if that clears them up. IF it does then connect one by one and keep checking the values. Lot more work but I am at a loss.
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my 1997 town and country van with the 3.8 liter engine keeps stalling at unpredictable times. sometimes when it is cold first thing in the morning, other times when fully warmed up at a stop light and sometimes on the interstate at 70 mph. The tach drops to zero, the speedometer drops to zero, the check engine light blinks on and then back off, the computer doesn't record any error codes. it causes the cruise control to drop out while on the hiway. the engine always starts right back up, for how long, its unpredictable. Mechanics have replaced the three engine sensors twice, checked and cleaned wiring contacts at sensors and engine computer. And also the Knock sensor has already been disconnected per a chrysler bulletin. At highway speeds the engine usually bucks and then keeps running, but sometimes dies.
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I have an 05 Elantra GLS auto transmission, ~83000 miles. Last Friday, the car was driving fine. I didn't drive it on Saturday, but when I started it up Sunday night, that's where the issue began. First, when I shift into reverse, the car makes a noise like as when you go over a pot hole. Idle RPM is around 800.
When I press the gas pedal, usually the response from the car to go forward is almost instantaneous, but now it take a second or two from the time I press down the gas pedal to when the car moves forward. The process is smooth though, no hiccups as it does that. Next, when I was driving on the highway between 70 - 80 MPH, the car's RPM was 4000 - 4500. It even sounds like the engine is "working harder" than it usually does. The 'Check Engine' light is also on with these codes: P0700 and P0885.
Another thing I noticed is that the car alternates between running fine and running with the conditions described above. If the car run with the symptoms described above, I shut off the car and restart it. Then it will run fine, but the check engine light will stay on. Then if I turn off the car and restart it, it will go back to the mode where I have the issues.
From some research, the P0700 code just means that the TCM has the actual code which is P0885. According to the tech manuals at [URL] ...., the P0885 has the following probable causes.
- Malfunction of the A/T control relay
- Malfunction of connector
- Malfunction of the PCM
The car actually ran fine today, with out any issues but the Check Engine light is stuck on. How to replace/service this PCM item? Or maybe this issue is covered under 100,000mile warranty?
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We have had an engine light that comes on when it is wet out. (Usually from rain) Until recently, the codes were not stored in memory. The last time we tried this, there was a 420 code set. Our mechanic said it was the catalytic converter. This vehicle is a 2006 and only has a 100,000 miles on it. Neither of the oxygen sensors have been replaced. The car doesn't seem to run any differently when the engine light comes on.
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The oil light on my 2005 Chryler Town & Country comes on when started when it is cold outside. It stays on until I turn the key off and restart, then it goes out and does not come back on. My mechanic cannot find anything wrong. This only happens in cold weather, not in the summer.
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I have a 2003 Chrysler Town & Country and the check engine light is on. I brought the van to my mechanic and he told me there was a code that told him there was a misfire on cylinder #1. He started out with replacing the wire to cylinder #1, no change. He replaced the spark plug, no change. He installed a new fuel injector, no change. The van runs a little ruff at idle and when at a stop light.
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2007 Chrysler Town & Country with 74K. The check engine light comes on and the parts store diagnostic says P0404, a clogged EGR valve. On my model, replacing the EGR valve involves taking out the alternator, which involves removing the passenger wheel. That's beyond my skill set.
So, can I just replace the EGR tube and pour some Sea Foam motor treatment directly into the EGR? Would that hurt anything?
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My Chysler Town and Country started fine on a morning when it was 9 degrees. (no garage, so it was out in the weather.) I let it run for a couple of minutes so things would begin to thaw and then I drove to work. It ran really rough. I figured that once it warmed up, it would smooth out, but it did not. Even after the weather warmed up into the 50's 5 days later, it still runs rough. Now, I am also getting a check engine light. What could be wrong?
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I have a 2002 Chrysler PT Cruiser manual transmission with 91,420 miles. The engine service light came on over a month ago (today Aug. 24, 2012). Little by little, a major tune up, a new battery, new plugs, O2 censors, condenser, wires, PVC valve, new gas cap, gas treatment, two tanks of premium gas, the light would not cut off. So off to the Auto Zone to get analyzed twice the code was P0601. Researching the internet, this P0601 code meant the PCM needed to be reprogrammed by the dealer. I called a Chrysler dealer here in Austin and was told that reprogramming the PCM may or may not cut the light off. So today and $100.00 later, the PCM was reprogrammed and the light was off when I left the dealership this morning. But it turned back on when I was leaving work this afternoon. My car needs the annual state inspection and it will not pass.
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My 1997 town and country van stalls when I brake or idle otherwise it drives fine what could that be?
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The oil light on my 2005 Chrysler Town & Country comes on when started when it is cold outside. It stays on until I turn the key off and restart, then it goes out and does not come back on. My mechanic cannot find anything wrong. This only happens in cold weather, not in the summer.
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My mother in-law has a 94 Chrysler LHS, 3.5 V6, auto, 66k. Yesterday she was driving home and said the check engine light was on. I went to check it out and the light was not on. The light come on when the key is turned on but goes out when it is started. This is not an OBD-2 car it has a little blue plug and i do not have a code reader for it. Took it to auto zone and they do not have a code reader for this car. Auto Zone and Pep Boys both told me that if the light is off there will not be a code. Further checking on the internet I found out you can get a two digit code by turning the key on and off and count the flashing check engine light. It worked I got code 12 and 51. 51 means lean O2 sensor. If this is true that why does the CEL not stay on. How can I test the O2 sensors?
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I have a 2007 Chrysler T & C minivan. The engine cuts off while driving. Most frequently while turning (to the right!). My mechanic found a loose battery terminal. Nope. Next he suspected the ignition switch which has been a problem with other model years. Nope. Now he wants to try the cam shaft? What could cause it to just die during a right turn? and very frequently.
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I don't know that much about cars, the fan that turns on to cool the engine when you're driving won't turn off when I turn off the van. Before I knew what was going on it was killing my battery over and over again and I kept getting jumps, finally took it to Sears and bought a new battery. Later that day I came back to the van, about a half hour after turning it off, and realized the fan was still on. There was nothing I could do to get it to stop, Finally it killed the battery once again and I called AAA. The triple A guy who came showed me how to pull out the fuse under the hood with needle nose pliers to stop it.
I had to drive it to Maine to visit my father and while there took it to his mechanics but of course when I pulled into their parking lot the engine fan turned off when I turned off the car. There were a few other repairs to be done, the air conditioner wasn't working and the interior lights weren't turning on, but during the week they had it the engine fan never did that weird thing for them. But when I picked it up two days ago, after driving it around town for a day and having it work fine, I took it on an hour and a half drive and once again the engine fan wouldn't turn off. Should I resign myself to driving around with a pair of needle nose pliers in my glove compartment for the rest of the life of this van??
BTW, I've only owned this van for a few months. The problem started after I had taken it to a garage in New Jersey where I now live to have the air conditioner worked on. The said it had no freon but couldn't find a leak so filled it with freon with a dye in it. They also said I needed to have my front wheels aligned and did that for me.
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I recently picked up a 2003 chrysler town and country from a local GM dealer in central MN. After filling out the paperwork etc I was on my way home and the transmission made a loud CLUNK. I thought I must be imagining things. At the next intersection as I accelerated from the light "CLUNK". I called the dealer right away and they stood behind the van. The dealer had me bring it to the transmission shop covering all expenses. They fixed it, or so they said. We had it for a few days and had similar problems. Back to the transmission shop. They then completely went through the transmission. We got it back and again had issues... this time it was a slight shudder in the transmission as you slowly accelerated. I brought it back again. They replaced the torque convertor. I've only had it back for a few days and it still has an occasional slight shudder under slow acceleration... it usually happens around 30mph.
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I am about an hour and a half from home at my cousins when my oil light came on. It only comes on when I have come to a complete stop. Once I accelerate it goes away. I checked the dipstick and it is full. Here is my question: what do you think this could be and would it be safe to drive home to my trusted mechanic. The car has 160,000 miles on it.
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I had a mechanic replace my original engine 0f 120k with a 60k engine. Seems like I ran out of oil and warped my original engine and this was my only option. So as soon as I get the van back the transmission is dripping fluid and the mechanic said that some thing in the transmission went bad and must be replaced. This has nothing to do with replacing your engine. Can this be true?
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The SES light in my 2001 7.3 came on about a month ago while I was towing a light trailer in the SoCal mountains. When I got home I spent about 2 weeks replacing the injector o-rings and glow plugs. I discovered while I was in there that the head bolts on the driver's side where loose. I retorqued them to spec.
Both batteries were disconnected for the 2 weeks. When I started the truck the SES light was still on.
My Torque Pro app isn't showing any error codes, and is reading live data correctly. (I didn't have the app when the light first came on; I only purchased it after I finished the repairs). Am I missing something? Is the SES light not necessarily connected to fault codes? If so, wouldn't it reset after 2 weeks with the batteries disconnected?
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