Chrysler - Ptcruiser :: Top Of Dipstick (transmission) Blown Off And Shot Transmission Fluid All Over The Engine
Jul 3, 2013
Here's the scoop, was driving down the freeway the other day, car is a 2001 PT Cruiser going about 65-70 MPH when all the sudden it felt as if I had hit something, a loud bump sound which came from underneath the engine, then an immediate reduction in speed and acceleration. After that, I was trying to accelerate the car, the RPMs were revving like crazy but the car would not go more than 15 MPH, while the RPMs were revving and revving, almost as if I was in park.
Got the car to the side of the road, opened the hood and found that the top of the dipstick (transmission) had blown off and shot transmission fluid all over the engine. Unsure of why this happened but sure that was what the loud sound was before the drastic drop in acceleration.
After that I had the car towed to my house, now it will start, but not drive in reverse at all, i'm afraid to try driving it to inspect it further but that's pretty much where I am at right now. There's 117k miles on this car...
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I had a mechanic replace my original engine 0f 120k with a 60k engine. Seems like I ran out of oil and warped my original engine and this was my only option. So as soon as I get the van back the transmission is dripping fluid and the mechanic said that some thing in the transmission went bad and must be replaced. This has nothing to do with replacing your engine. Can this be true?
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I have the 4r75e transmission. Last week I was driving for about 20-30 mins when my transmission fluid started to boiled and came out the dipstick tube. I let it cool off then took my time and drove it home. I know my transmission is not shot because I am getting full power on the transmission. After I got home I checked the fluid level and it's good, then I disconnect the transmission fluid lines on the transmission to see if I am having flow, but no luck...
I took my air hose and blew the lines out and they were clear. I also blew into the transmission thru the ports where the lines were connected. I started the truck up and the fluid came out with full force about 1-2qarts came out before I shut the truck off. I was all excited and I connected all the lines And started the truck to go for a test drive but my gut told me to disconnect the line to see if I am still having a flow and as suspected no flow...
I took off the lines that connected to the transmission and still no flow. I blew the air into the transmission again and started the truck up and bam I have flow again for about 20 seconds... I shut the truck off and I decided to connected the lines back to the transmission and I disconnected the lines about 12" away from the transmission to put a clear hose that connected both lines to make a loop.
Started the truck and there was no flow, I disconnected the 5/8 nut on the transmission and blew the air into the transmission. Started the truck and only got a few dribbles. I check the fluid level and it's still good. I am stuck and don't know what to do... What part of the transmission send the hot fluid out to the cool. The valve body? The main pump? The solenoid???
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I just wanted to post this due to the problem I was having with this code. I recently replaced a broken timing belt on my 2005 pt cruiser (non-turbo). Everything went back together, minus the hours trying to get the timing marks lined up by myself. After getting the engine buttoned up, the car would crank and idle, but only after 2000 rpm and the engine code P0016 would show up. I went back into the engine, reset the timing belt, and cranked it before putting everything back together. Worked fine, so buttoned it back up and took it for a test drive.
Bam, same engine code pops up again, only this time the car acted like it wanted to go into limp mode for half a second after driving for a few miles when I was turning around to come back to the house. It straightened up and drove fine. I could drive the car fine even after that, made a few test drives into town. The car would kind of fight limp mode after first cranking the car and accelerating, but then straighten up.
After a couple of months of research and talking to a friend who is a pretty good mechanic, I decided this was an electrical problem. I checked, and sure enough, after looking at the wiring at the cam shaft sensor connector, it was frayed. I spliced it and still had some issues with the code. I had just put a new sensor on it when the belt broke thinking it might be the sensor, so I put the old sensor back on it and now it runs fine, no more light. So, after months of thinking the timing or tone rings might be off, it was just a wiring/sensor issue.
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It doesn't make the noise when accelerating, in fact, the noise quits when I accelerate. The noise sounds like metal being drug on concrete, or a grinding sound. Is this a possible bearing going out on the alternator or possibly the AC clutch/bearing? The noise is not present during normal driving conditions, just when the car is almost at a stop and stops as acceleration occurs. I have reached in to see if possibly a loose pulley/bad bearing on the alternator, but there is no slack there. Is it possible that I have the alternator belt too tight, or is this another issue?
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My 86 diesel mercedes has a history of a bad transmission. Could not drive it for 2 years before having the transmission rebuilt only to end with no 3rd gear. Very loud metal sounds(not grinding) when changing gears as well as having to build up muscle tone to change gears. Anyway, driving along around 55mph when the airbag deploys with no collision. I pulled over safely, not sure how. After cutting away the airbag my husband tried to drive the car home. The stick would only move up and down but not into any gears.
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I have a 2002 Chrysler Sebring that broke down. Unfortunately it ran out of oil, and I was told that the car has 2 sensors that detected the lack of oil and shut down the engine. A local auto repair shop replaced the sensors. I paid the bill and began to drive the car home but I only got 20 miles away when the engine blew. My question is, if the the shop told me the car was fixed and then the engine blew, aren't they somehow liable for this?
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I have a 91 pontiac Grand Prix with a 3.1 and the car has NO leaks, however, I have noticed that the transmission fluid level go down and the engine oil goes up. My conclusion is that some how the tranny fluid is crossing over to the engine, is this possible? and if it is, how or where?
NOTE: my car has a tranny cooling line to the radiator but no engine oil cooling lines and the colant is clean. how is it possible?
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My check engine light came on in my 2005 Elantra. During the course of trying to find out why I realized that my transmission fluid was a little low. I went to Walmart and got a bottle of the multi vehicle fluid the auto counter man said it needed. I did come online to check to see if that was the right fluid before putting it in and see that evidently the specs are very specific for what type of transmission fluid to use.
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