Chrysler - Ptcruiser :: Shake And Rumble If AC On During Idle And Not Cold Anymore
Aug 22, 2014
So, I've had my car for about 4 years now. It's a 2008 basic PT Cruiser. About two years ago it started to make this weird noise whenever the AC was on. My car would shake and rumble if the AC was on during idle and the AC wouldn't be cool anymore. Whenever I was driving, it was fine. We charged it and then it quit doing that. A little after that, it started making this weird noise when I turned it on-kind of sounding like something was being banged around under the hood of my car. It also started to make this loud kind of screeching noise, and some gas or steam would sometimes (not often) come out from under the hood.
Then I got in a wreck and they said they fixed it when they repaired the car. Now, 2 years later, it's starting to make that same noise. The rumbling has continued, but when I charge it, it goes away. I just charged my AC about 5 weeks ago, but now it's starting again and the noise just started again this morning. I was told that there was a disc (something like that?) that may have cut my belt, but they said that they fixed that when they repaired my car from the wreck. If that was fixed, then shouldn't it not be doing this?
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Background: My starter was grinding when cold. So I put in a new (used) starter. Still grinding. Had the battery load tested before starter swap, test said everything OK.
New thing: At the posts the battery reads 12.4 volts. But at the starter solenoid and other places on the positive wire it reads anywhere from 3 to 9 volts. If I leave the multimeter on it the voltage will swing back and forth and all over the place between about 3 and 9 volts in the space of 5 seconds.
Where the voltage might be going? Bad ground? Could this be what's causing the starter to stick? Related at least?
It's a 2003 PT CRUISER non-turbo.
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I have an 05 pt cruiser that idles rough sporadically. Sometimes it idles smooth, sometimes it is rough but will calm down when i shift into gear, and sometimes it is rough when i let off the gas and come to a stop sign. When i first crank the car, the idle is rough and will act like it wants to cut out when i first back out of the driveway, but it clears up and drives better after getting gas. I have changed the plugs and wires, which did work, but there is something else still causing some problems. When at cruising speed, you can't detect any stutters or other problems. I looked at the vacuum lines and have a bottle of injector cleaner on 3 tanks of gas back to back with no apparent change. I did put a PCM on it a few years back, is it possible it has gone bad? The gas mileage also has seem to be suffering. I also checked the air filter as a possible problem, but it is very clean.
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A/C works fine when moving. At idle, it doesn't work. Fan is not spinning. Is it definitely a bad fan or is it a possible fuse/switch/module? How difficult it would be for a novice to replace the fan?
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I did a timing belt replacement on the car. Checked the marks carefully for alignment since it took me nearly 2 hours to get them right to begin with, started the engine and it ran fine. Now, after putting the car back together again, the car will crank, and as long as I give it gas, idle smoothly at RPM's over 1000. Once I get my foot off of the gas, it will die, and I mean at once, no sputter or anything. I have pulled the IAC valve and cleaned it, and it seemed to do a little better in that i can let my foot off the gas and it will idle around 1000 RPM and slightly below, but it will eventually do the same, and the idle is ruff. I have also noticed while maintaining the higher RPM, there appears to be a slight surge in the RPM as if the car is trying to idle itself even higher off an on.
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I have 2006 PT Cruiser Turbo Convertible that violently shakes when I am stopped at idle in gear and the A?C compressor is on. When I turn the A/C compressor off (leaving the fan on) there is a drastic reduction in the vibration. If I put it in park and turn the fan off, there is an additional lessening of the vibration.
I have taken it to three different mechanics and had the following done: spark plugs and spark plug wires changed, fuel injection system cleaned, the 'whatchamacallit' in the fuel system cleaned out, the two main motor mounts changed.
None of the above maintenance has lessened the vibration one bit. Question: What is causing it?
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I've had my 2010 GTI for 8 months now and have really only had one issue with it. When I start the car, it shakes before I start moving. Like, the steering wheel, body, pedals, gearshift, etc... It's not a violent shake, but definitely something I've never noticed in any other car I've owned including my MkV GTI. It doesn't seem like a normal feeling for a brand new car. I took it back to my original dealer at 4,000 miles and they said there was nothing wrong with it and they didn't feel any vibrations.
Well lately it's been vibrating more intensely and more often (at almost 8,000 miles) It now does the same thing while stopped in traffic or at lights. It's really annoying to me. I took it a couple days ago to a new dealer (I moved) and just talked to them on the phone. They also said there's nothing wrong with it and it's normal.
I forget exactly what they said it was because I was walking to the gym, but basically it was some cooling pump/fan that kicks on to cool the engine down and that's what is causing the vibration. But, they said it's normal and all VWs do it. I'm not quite sure why a fan needs to cool a perfectly cold engine in the morning though.
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My son's wife has a PT Cruiser, she told me last night that it has a shimmy at 70 mph. What are the causes of this ?
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My PT has a vibration, I've replaced rear drums, rear hub assemblies, front brakes and front rotors and all four tires.The vibration is only while going 55 to 60 MPH each time I've replaced the different parts (rotated the tires and rear drums) the wobble seems to go away for about a few miles and then comes back!I'm going to replace the front hubs and bearings now, but why would the wobble change each time I changed I've changed all these parts around. Could it be a bent rim? or just the front bearings?
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I have a 2004 PT Cruiser with 111,000 miles on it. A summer or two ago, whenever it got hot out, the check engine light would start to come on. Usually, it didn't affect the car's driveability - but sometimes, it would cause the car to buck and/or stall, sometimes to the point of stalling completely out. Brought it into the shop again and again. Camshaft sensor. O2 sensor. Crankshaft sensor. Replaced. Checked. P0304 misfire code came up in diagnostics again and again. Re-wiring of camshaft sensor wires. And on and on. And yet again, intermittently, the check engine light would come back on and the whole thing would start all over again. Sometimes you'd drive it, stop somewhere, start it again, and the check engine light would be gone. Sometimes it would stay on for days. Weeks. Sometimes with no other driving symptoms - it just depends on how the car is feeling? I thought the problem was limited to the hot months of summer, but now it's the dead of January in Minnesota and it's happening again. Yesterday, it stalled out completely and I had to get it towed to the shop - decided to try a new shop, they said maybe the problem was that the old shop did a bad wiring job. OK. But then, got the car back, no check engine light on first drive, stopped somewhere for 5 minutes, get back in, start it again, check engine light back on. But at least the car started and didn't buck/stall. Now it's back in the shop, but I'm ready to give up.
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What is ABS code 18 2001 PT Cruiser???
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I have a 2002 chrysler pt cruiser. For the past week when I start to crank it it will just click one or two times then crank. Today it won't start at all just clicking.
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I have a 2007 PT Cruiser that's just about to hit the 100,000-mile mark. My problem is when stopped, the car feels like it wants to stall, but only when the AC/Heater/Defrost is on. Also, when it starts to act up, the heater stops working, leaving only the fan to blow air around. It doesn't happen all the time, but enough to make me turn off the heater or whatever I'm using when I come to a red light. It just started doing this and I just wanted to have a rough idea as to what it was before I took it to a mechanic.
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After running for a while traveling to and from the store, my temperature gauge on my 2005 PT cruiser rises to hot and the temperature light comes on. However,when I get out and raise the hood. The engine doesn't seem to be overly hot. No boiling or hissing sound and no steam coming from the engine.
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I drove the car to town this morning, and then to work without problems. I go to get in the car and the car has no electrical power what so ever. I am going to check the voltage and battery terminals, but is there a fuse that sends power to everything in the car, including lights, horn, etc? There is NO power at all.
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Recently my PT Cruiser was having trouble shifting into park so the car could not be started or the key could not be removed. I had to force it into park a few times and then something popped and broke. The car thinks it's in drive so it will no longer crank. I took a look under the hood and the shifter cable looks to be fine and connected properly but what I found under the center console seems to be the problem. The entire cable and plastic mechanism move freely. To me it seems as if the plastic piece holding the cable aligned is quite stuck. The metal rod looks like it's supposed to move inside the casing? Here are some photos of what we're dealing with.
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I was driving the car down the freeway, hear a loud bang from underneath the engine, immeadiately ceased accelerating over 15 MPH and would not reverse.
As it stands now the car will start up, but not reverse, or accelerate over 15 MPH without the RPMs revving like mad. Think it might be tranny-related...
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Our 2005 PT Cruiser has a 2.4 liter turbo. We had to replace the turbo at 78K miles due to “carbon buildup and clogged” so said the dealer. I can not get any local mechanic to tell me why this happened or if it is normal. My wife claims it is because I have been using the cheap, mid-grade gas. I tell her, no, it was because of the cheap oil I was using. I am now using synthetic oil. One mechanic said the turbo needs to be “blown out” occasionally, by either high speed driving or fast take offs. Bottom line: What would make the turbo carbon up so badly that it must be replaced? What can I do to have this not happen again around 156K? Must I always use premium gas?
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While driving on the highway, I experienced sudden acceleration of the RPM's only on my 1997 PT Cruiser. What would cause this? I had to stop and shut the car off and it was okay when I restarted.
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I have a 2006 PT Cruiser with approximately 94K miles on it. This year I started a 2-hr round trip commute every week day, so the car went from getting ~200 mi. a week on it to ~700 mi. a week. I bought it used ~4 years ago with 28K mi. on it.
2 months ago, the car started shaking between the speeds of 50 and 60 mph. Not sure how to best describe it - kind of a shake/jerk, like someone was jerking the car forward very quickly and repeatedly. It seemed to be strongest in the front of the car on the passenger side, although you could feel it throughout the car. I took it to a repair shop. They balanced the tires, but that only very mildly worked. Then they changed the front axles (said there was a lot of play in them). They replaced the brakes, rotors, and timing belt at as well, for unrelated reasons. With new front axles, the shake disappeared, but the car has been idling incredibly rough ever since I got it back. You can see the steering wheel vibrate and feel it in the seat when I start the car or am stopped with it running. This never used to happen.
Additionally, the shake has now returned, but from the driver's side of the front of the car now. Again, it's between 50 and 60 mph, although it's slowly creeping up into the 60-65 range also. It's stronger if I'm pushing the gas down more, like when going up a steep hill. If I'm going downhill at 50-60mph, I don't notice it or barely notice it. On flat ground it's noticeable, uphill it's becoming severe.
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Less than two weeks ago I had the fuel pump replaced and battery terminals replaced on my 2006 PT Cruiser Touring Edition (not turbo.) I have almost 90,000 miles and have had very few minor issues all these years.Car stalled while driving, towed it to mechanic, he diagnoses fuel pump failure. So I had him replace fuel pump, and while I was there had battery terminals replaced, since I've dealt with some pesky corrosion recently.
I've never had electrical problems with this car. So here I am a week after repair, I'm driving and hear an electrical pop in the dash, then the radio turns off and back on within a few seconds. Nothing else happened, I chalk it up to a fluke and keep going. Well it happened again yesterday! Exact same "pop" then radio turns off, comes back on in 2-3 seconds.
Both events happened during the day, so I don't know yet if my headlights had been on, would this "pop" have affected lights too? Perhaps.
So what I'd like to know is: when the mechanic was replacing the fuel pump and battery terminals, do those repairs involve him messing with wiring at all? Could he have left a grounding wire disconnected? I've read a little about the fuel pump relay, but I have not been able to confirm that 2006 PT Cruiser has a fuel pump relay. ? Any other theories on what could be shorting out, creating an electrical "pop"?
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