Chrysler - Ptcruiser :: 2006 - All Warning Lights On Dashboard Lit Up And Gauges Go Dead?
Feb 11, 2012
I have 2006 Pt. Cruiser Touring with 150,000 miles on it. It has been well cared for with oil changes, tire rotations, tune ups, and preventative maintenance done regularly.
My problem is this. Sometimes when I drive the vehicle, all the warning lights on the dash board will light up, and all the gauges go dead. But the car keeps running and does not decelerate or lose power. The lights shut off within 3-6 seconds, with the seat belt lights being the last to go out. I have paid over $600 dollars for 6 hook ups to the computer at the dealer with no codes showing.
I have just replaced the belts, cam & crank sensors, spark plugs, spark plug wires, battery, alternator, hoses, water pump, timing belt, and it still does this. This morning when driving to an appointment, it did this again 3 times within 5 minutes. I had activated the cruise control when it did this. When I turned the cruise control off, it did not do it again. But in the past, this has happened when I was not using the cruise control. And it happens at all speeds, 60, 20, 35, or 40 MPH. What is wrong with my car.
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My dash board lights up for no reason. All the lights -- seat belt, engine, oil, etc. Also the speedometer goes from 0 to 100, the RMP needle goes from 0 to whatever and my gas tank need goes from empty to full to back to empty. In addition it is now loosing power --no gas is getting where ever so I must pump gas peddle to get it going again. It usually lasts only seconds and there is NO rhyme or reason to when it does it. I left it with a dealership and they drove it 265 miles and it did nothing. I got it back and within 48 hours it started doing it again. They did put in a new instrument cluster and it still continues.
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2006 Chrysler PT Cruiser. While driving, it seems at random, all gauges drop and stop working, no gas getting to the car, power loss. Sometimes lasts a split second, sometimes lasts up to 30 seconds. The car will even stall here and there, but usually not. Usually, power gets restored. But sometimes the car won't even start for an extended period of time. Of course, when the mechanic takes it for a ride it does nothing wrong.
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Less than two weeks ago I had the fuel pump replaced and battery terminals replaced on my 2006 PT Cruiser Touring Edition (not turbo.) I have almost 90,000 miles and have had very few minor issues all these years.Car stalled while driving, towed it to mechanic, he diagnoses fuel pump failure. So I had him replace fuel pump, and while I was there had battery terminals replaced, since I've dealt with some pesky corrosion recently.
I've never had electrical problems with this car. So here I am a week after repair, I'm driving and hear an electrical pop in the dash, then the radio turns off and back on within a few seconds. Nothing else happened, I chalk it up to a fluke and keep going. Well it happened again yesterday! Exact same "pop" then radio turns off, comes back on in 2-3 seconds.
Both events happened during the day, so I don't know yet if my headlights had been on, would this "pop" have affected lights too? Perhaps.
So what I'd like to know is: when the mechanic was replacing the fuel pump and battery terminals, do those repairs involve him messing with wiring at all? Could he have left a grounding wire disconnected? I've read a little about the fuel pump relay, but I have not been able to confirm that 2006 PT Cruiser has a fuel pump relay. ? Any other theories on what could be shorting out, creating an electrical "pop"?
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I picked up a 2013 F250 back in Sept. currently about 5k miles. I've had in the shop twice. Once for a loud moonroof vibration when idling and just recently another for a PCM update(Engine light came on).
Here's the problem...
Something odd happened when I drove about a 1/4 mile... The dashboard lit up like a christmas tree and gave every error known to man. All dashboard lights came on, parking break, engine light, etc. Then the computer dash gave an AdvanceTrac Error, Oil pressure low and something else I can't recall. All my gauges went dead, including the Speedometer. Mind you, this was while driving... The only gauge working was the fuel gauge.
Turned the truck off, back on, everything works as normal. The truck has not showed any issues since (2 days of short distance drives).
I called the Service Dept and spoke with my guy. He never heard of this before and kind of wrote it off... Said, they won't be able to figure out unless it happens while they have it. This doesn't sound right to me.
My nose is pointing at the PCM update or a possible grounding issue.
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Recently my PT Cruiser was having trouble shifting into park so the car could not be started or the key could not be removed. I had to force it into park a few times and then something popped and broke. The car thinks it's in drive so it will no longer crank. I took a look under the hood and the shifter cable looks to be fine and connected properly but what I found under the center console seems to be the problem. The entire cable and plastic mechanism move freely. To me it seems as if the plastic piece holding the cable aligned is quite stuck. The metal rod looks like it's supposed to move inside the casing? Here are some photos of what we're dealing with.
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Just got a new-to-me 2006 F350 Super Duty XL with the 5.4L V8 and 5-speed auto. I haven't had a full-size truck in a few years and forgot what I was missing!
When I bought the truck, all gauges were inoperative except for the fuel and oil pressure gauges. The previous owner told me they would work intermittently and at some point just stopped. The usual warning lights - ABS, CEL, and "the wrench" - were all lit, and from Googling and searching this forum, it looked like an easy fix - probably a pinched or frayed shifter wire, or possibly a cluster repair.
I took it home and did a self test on the gauges. The "sweep gauges" made everything swing fine, so I was thinking it might not be a problem in the cluster. I pulled the steering column apart, removed the Tow/Haul overdrive wire from the plastic retainer, re-ran it with some slack, taped the end where it comes out of the shifter (even though I saw no breaks/frays) cleaned the connections, gave it a dollop of dielectric grease in the connector, and put it all back together. VOILA - GAUGES and no warning lights! You can imagine the touchdown dance in the driveway.
Fast forward a few weeks and....back to no gauges and warning lights lit. Figuring the overdrive wire had finally given up, I ordered and installed a replacement shifter figuring it was an easy and cheap fix. No joy - same problem. Tried cleaning and reseating the connection. Nothing. I've searched FTE like mad and it seems like 95% of the problems are with the wire exiting the shifter fraying and/or blowing a fuse, but this is a new shifter. I've also checked fuses #2, #24, #33, #36, #41, and #45 (some referenced #19 but I don't have a fuse there). All were unbroken - just put them back in and reseated firmly. I did a code pull via OBD2 and have a "rear catalytic efficiency degraded" code...not sure if that's related, but figured I just had an exhaust issue.
I may take the dash cover off and try to clean and reset the connections on the gauge cluster, as well as do the same for the PCM. Is it possible that the tow/haul overdrive wire to the PCM (where the shifter connects to) is bad? How to test and/or replace if it comes up bad?
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I have a 2006 PT Cruiser with approximately 94K miles on it. This year I started a 2-hr round trip commute every week day, so the car went from getting ~200 mi. a week on it to ~700 mi. a week. I bought it used ~4 years ago with 28K mi. on it.
2 months ago, the car started shaking between the speeds of 50 and 60 mph. Not sure how to best describe it - kind of a shake/jerk, like someone was jerking the car forward very quickly and repeatedly. It seemed to be strongest in the front of the car on the passenger side, although you could feel it throughout the car. I took it to a repair shop. They balanced the tires, but that only very mildly worked. Then they changed the front axles (said there was a lot of play in them). They replaced the brakes, rotors, and timing belt at as well, for unrelated reasons. With new front axles, the shake disappeared, but the car has been idling incredibly rough ever since I got it back. You can see the steering wheel vibrate and feel it in the seat when I start the car or am stopped with it running. This never used to happen.
Additionally, the shake has now returned, but from the driver's side of the front of the car now. Again, it's between 50 and 60 mph, although it's slowly creeping up into the 60-65 range also. It's stronger if I'm pushing the gas down more, like when going up a steep hill. If I'm going downhill at 50-60mph, I don't notice it or barely notice it. On flat ground it's noticeable, uphill it's becoming severe.
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We have a 2006 PT Cruiser. Within a year the Dodge dealer has replaced the heater core five times. They say it's a defective part each time, but I'm not so sure. Usually the core gets a leak after the car has been driven, then parked for a few minutes. When we restart it the heater core blows sending antifreeze vapor out the heater vents.
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I finally found the Prius I wanted. It's used. 2006. Gen II 220k miles. Bought at auction almost completely dead and no gas. After adding gas and driving so the main battery charges. It starts up great however the dash looks a little scary with nearly every warning light on.
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My check engine light goes on ONLY when my husband starts the car.He is starting it normally.Then all the controls read incorrect such as temperature and RPMs.When I get back in my car later , I start it and it goes off! Why this is happening or what he might be doing?
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My 2006 PT Cruiser Touring Edition has a lot of squeaks from the front. Most noticeable at low speed going over speed bumps or potholes. My mechanic has checked front end and says noise is coming from rear cradle bushings and wants to drop rear cradle and inspect/lube bushings. Also says sway links are dry and recommends lubing these as well. Everything else is OK. Estimate is $100-$150. Other than the annoying squeaking (which I can live with) is there any other reason (safety/mechanical) to get this done?
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I have 2006 PT Cruiser Turbo Convertible that violently shakes when I am stopped at idle in gear and the A?C compressor is on. When I turn the A/C compressor off (leaving the fan on) there is a drastic reduction in the vibration. If I put it in park and turn the fan off, there is an additional lessening of the vibration.
I have taken it to three different mechanics and had the following done: spark plugs and spark plug wires changed, fuel injection system cleaned, the 'whatchamacallit' in the fuel system cleaned out, the two main motor mounts changed.
None of the above maintenance has lessened the vibration one bit. Question: What is causing it?
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my car is a 2007 Chrysler PT Cruiser with over 75K on it. My problem is two fold. First, recently the right rear turn signal light shorts out but only in the morning it seems. Because we've been getting a lot of rain in Nashville and the surrounding area, I suspect the high dewpoint and humidity might play a part here but I think I just need to replace the bulb.The second issue is a little more annoying. For whatever reason, the "air bag warning" light on the driver side console comes on and I cannot figure out why.The third issue is a little more pressing. I noticed during the summer whenever I was idling and had the A/C running, occasionally I would hear the engine act like it was about to stall out, like RPMs had dropped significantly. Now I've noticed it does that when the front defroster is running and winter is coming. What can I do about any of these problems listed here?
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I own a 1992 Jeep Wrangler that I'm currently trying to fix up. A major problem is that my the gauges and lights on my dashboard don't work correctly. My MPH and RPM gauges work fine, but my gas gauge and the three gauges next to it don't. they just sit at about a 1/4 full. Also the lights on my dashboard don't turn on when my headlights are on. So like when I'm driving at night with my headlights on my dashboard is pitch black. The lights have come on randomly before, but then don't work again the next time i drive with my headlights.
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-At first, the car stereo wouldnt turn off when the car was turned off (the battery died many times :P) -I learned my lesson, and manually turned it off every time I got out.
-Then the radio started acting weird an randomly shut off, switched modes etc.
-Then while driving one day.. the "Theft" light turned on while driving and the radio shut off. The odometer read "error". It would go back to normal, but stay for longer periods of time when it happened.
-Then the car had problems starting, AND the day lights wouldn't turn off 50% of the time (I had too unhook the battery)
-Eventually the radio just stopped working and wouldn't turn on, and ALL the dash lights stayed on while driving, with none of the gauges working, while the odometer reads "error".
-After about a week of that, I decided to remove the radio. That actually worked alot. The MPH gauge and the RPM gauge now work, the front lights are back to normal. The car starts every time!
-However, the Gas gauge and Temp gauge still don't work, and the lights are all lit up on the dash and it still reads "ERROR"
I know it can be many things, but what steps can I take to find the "short" or "bad wire" or fix the problem. I know the hard part, is actually figuring out what is causing it.
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I have a 98 Dodge Dakota with 5.2 V8. On the way home today all my gauges and warning lights started going on and off and then gauges stopped working all together and all the warning lights stayed on. The engine was running fine and after pulling over and checking things out, I made the last mile or so home OK. Checked fuses and battery connection and everything looked Ok. Relay or Computer?
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My 2009 Hyundai Sonata's dashboard readings suddenly went "dead" yesterday that is - the fuel gauge read empty, the speedo wasn't registering nor was the tachometer and the led display couldn't be altered? What might be wrong and whether I can do anything to fix it?
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My son's wife has a PT Cruiser, she told me last night that it has a shimmy at 70 mph. What are the causes of this ?
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My PT has a vibration, I've replaced rear drums, rear hub assemblies, front brakes and front rotors and all four tires.The vibration is only while going 55 to 60 MPH each time I've replaced the different parts (rotated the tires and rear drums) the wobble seems to go away for about a few miles and then comes back!I'm going to replace the front hubs and bearings now, but why would the wobble change each time I changed I've changed all these parts around. Could it be a bent rim? or just the front bearings?
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The battery light came on in my '04 F150 a couple of days ago. Terminals were in need of cleaning, so I took care of that. The next day after driving 50 miles to and from work, the battery light came on again, along with the ABS & Brake light started flashing. After shutting the truck off, it would not start.
Three days later, I have now installed a brand new alternator and battery, only to have the same symptoms pop up about one minute after start up. The warning lights are now accompanied by the passenger airbag light and all engine instruments needle sweep back and forth. Dash lights go dim and bright intermittently as RPM varies.
Do I need old fault codes cleared or is this a PCM issue?
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