Chrysler - Ptcruiser :: 2005 - Carbon Buildup And Clogged
Jun 28, 2012
Our 2005 PT Cruiser has a 2.4 liter turbo. We had to replace the turbo at 78K miles due to “carbon buildup and clogged” so said the dealer. I can not get any local mechanic to tell me why this happened or if it is normal. My wife claims it is because I have been using the cheap, mid-grade gas. I tell her, no, it was because of the cheap oil I was using. I am now using synthetic oil. One mechanic said the turbo needs to be “blown out” occasionally, by either high speed driving or fast take offs. Bottom line: What would make the turbo carbon up so badly that it must be replaced? What can I do to have this not happen again around 156K? Must I always use premium gas?
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I'm replacing my knock sensors and intake gaskets on a 2001 silverado and there is a lot of carbon buildup in the intake, what can i use to safely clean it with....
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I have an 05 pt cruiser that idles rough sporadically. Sometimes it idles smooth, sometimes it is rough but will calm down when i shift into gear, and sometimes it is rough when i let off the gas and come to a stop sign. When i first crank the car, the idle is rough and will act like it wants to cut out when i first back out of the driveway, but it clears up and drives better after getting gas. I have changed the plugs and wires, which did work, but there is something else still causing some problems. When at cruising speed, you can't detect any stutters or other problems. I looked at the vacuum lines and have a bottle of injector cleaner on 3 tanks of gas back to back with no apparent change. I did put a PCM on it a few years back, is it possible it has gone bad? The gas mileage also has seem to be suffering. I also checked the air filter as a possible problem, but it is very clean.
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I drove the car to town this morning, and then to work without problems. I go to get in the car and the car has no electrical power what so ever. I am going to check the voltage and battery terminals, but is there a fuse that sends power to everything in the car, including lights, horn, etc? There is NO power at all.
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Ok, here it goes. I was changing the timing belt on a 2005 PT Cruiser. Everything went good until I tried re-installing the harmonic balancer. No one in town carried the tool to reinstall the thing, so I ordered a tool from Amazon. I was installing the balancer, had a box end wrench just holding the bolt that screwed into the crankshaft and an adjustable wrench turning the bearing nut to push the pulley back on. I got the pulley down where the balancer and crankshaft started turning, so I held the box end wrench steady as I snugged the bearing to make sure it had bottomed out when the bolt broke down in the crankshaft.
Now, this bolt had threads at the top to turn the bearing, a shaft, and then about half inch but no more than 3/4 inch of thread at the bottom to thread into the crank and a long shoulder in between. The bolt broke at the bottom where the threaded part started. And, to make things worse, it turns out the bolt is made of pewter and is about 3-4 inches in the crank. I tried to feel for threads with the crank bolt itself, and t appears to be where the crank threads start. There appears to be abut 1/2 - 3/4 of an inch of space on the other end of the broken bolt. I have considered drilling the center out progressively bigger until I could get something in there to back the bolt out, and I am not sure I could get a bolt extractor down in the hole and then turn the thing to back it out.
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Last weekend we had our first warm weather up here in the Finger Lakes. My girlfriend wanted to be able to put down the top on her 2005 PT Cruiser convertible, but for a few months now the power windows and power top have not been working. She was going to take it to the shop, but I said, it may just be a fuse. I looked up the owners manual online, then drove the car to an auto parts shop and replaced the circuit breaker in the fusebox under the steering column, because it controls the power windows. The two passenger side windows started working but not the others. So I bought a fuse tester and tested all the fuses in the dashboard fusebox. They were all fine.
I drove the car some more, and couldn't figure out why the other windows wouldn't work. At one point I stopped but forgot to turn the engine off. I pulled some of the fuses out and plugged them back in, one by one. When I pulled one of them out, the engine stopped. I thought "uh-oh," then turned the ignition key to off and replaced the fuse. When I started the car again the engine light was on. I drove home (about 12 miles). I looked up stuff about the engine light on line and learned that after three trips, if everything is okay, the engine light will go out. That is exactly what happened. So I thought everything was okay except that I hadn't solved the window problem.
Two or three days later, my girlfriend got in the car to go to work in the morning. The car started but the engine light was on, and as she backed up out of her driveway the engine stopped. It wouldn't start again. The starter would just make a ratchety sound. We both figured my experiment with the fuses must have done something. I took the car (by tow truck) to a mechanic, and he didn't see how the fuses could be the problem. It turned out that the starter was bad and had burned out the battery. So I paid to have the starter replaced and a new battery put in. But when we picked the car up, he said what I'd done had nothing to do with the problem. He said the starter had probably been bad for some time, and it was just a coincidence that the car broke down a couple of days after I fiddled with the fuses. Now I'm convinced he's right, and my girlfriend is just convinced that he's wrong.
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I did a timing belt replacement on the car. Checked the marks carefully for alignment since it took me nearly 2 hours to get them right to begin with, started the engine and it ran fine. Now, after putting the car back together again, the car will crank, and as long as I give it gas, idle smoothly at RPM's over 1000. Once I get my foot off of the gas, it will die, and I mean at once, no sputter or anything. I have pulled the IAC valve and cleaned it, and it seemed to do a little better in that i can let my foot off the gas and it will idle around 1000 RPM and slightly below, but it will eventually do the same, and the idle is ruff. I have also noticed while maintaining the higher RPM, there appears to be a slight surge in the RPM as if the car is trying to idle itself even higher off an on.
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I just wanted to post this due to the problem I was having with this code. I recently replaced a broken timing belt on my 2005 pt cruiser (non-turbo). Everything went back together, minus the hours trying to get the timing marks lined up by myself. After getting the engine buttoned up, the car would crank and idle, but only after 2000 rpm and the engine code P0016 would show up. I went back into the engine, reset the timing belt, and cranked it before putting everything back together. Worked fine, so buttoned it back up and took it for a test drive.
Bam, same engine code pops up again, only this time the car acted like it wanted to go into limp mode for half a second after driving for a few miles when I was turning around to come back to the house. It straightened up and drove fine. I could drive the car fine even after that, made a few test drives into town. The car would kind of fight limp mode after first cranking the car and accelerating, but then straighten up.
After a couple of months of research and talking to a friend who is a pretty good mechanic, I decided this was an electrical problem. I checked, and sure enough, after looking at the wiring at the cam shaft sensor connector, it was frayed. I spliced it and still had some issues with the code. I had just put a new sensor on it when the belt broke thinking it might be the sensor, so I put the old sensor back on it and now it runs fine, no more light. So, after months of thinking the timing or tone rings might be off, it was just a wiring/sensor issue.
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I have a 2005 PT Cruiser non-turbo. A short time back, the tensioner bolt broke on the alternator and after spending several months going back and forth with the dealer, I was finally able to find the correct size bolt to replace it. Shortly afterwards, I began to hear a scraping sound coming from the engine compartment. The sound is sporadic, and only lasts for a short time. The sound only appears to happen when the engine is idling down when coming to a stop, and it doesn't always do it.
It doesn't make the noise when accelerating, in fact, the noise quits when I accelerate. The noise sounds like metal being drug on concrete, or a grinding sound. Is this a possible bearing going out on the alternator or possibly the AC clutch/bearing? The noise is not present during normal driving conditions, just when the car is almost at a stop and stops as acceleration occurs. I have reached in to see if possibly a loose pulley/bad bearing on the alternator, but there is no slack there. Is it possible that I have the alternator belt too tight, or is this another issue?
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My 2005 PT Cruiser Limited 2.4 Turbo bucks under acceleration and had displayed the codes for a bad Map Sensor, Throttle Positioning Sensor, and Oxygen Sensor. I replaced both Oxygen Sensors, Map Sensor and the TPS. Each time I replaced a sensor and took it out for a test drive it ran great. The next day my wife is on her way to work and I am on the phone with her, she accelerates to get on the freeway and the bucking is back. The codes it displays now are P2074, P1697 & P0038. All the previous codes except P0038 disappeared when I disconnected the ground cable for 15 minutes after the repair. I start the car every morning for her and run the heater for 15 minutes as it is in the 30's here in the morning and so I replicate that before I take it on a test drive after completing a repair so the conditions are the same.
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Now for the 2nd time my ebpv is clogged with carbon. Is there Any way to keep it clean or am I going to have to clean it every 2k miles? A
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My son's wife has a PT Cruiser, she told me last night that it has a shimmy at 70 mph. What are the causes of this ?
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My PT has a vibration, I've replaced rear drums, rear hub assemblies, front brakes and front rotors and all four tires.The vibration is only while going 55 to 60 MPH each time I've replaced the different parts (rotated the tires and rear drums) the wobble seems to go away for about a few miles and then comes back!I'm going to replace the front hubs and bearings now, but why would the wobble change each time I changed I've changed all these parts around. Could it be a bent rim? or just the front bearings?
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I have a 2004 PT Cruiser with 111,000 miles on it. A summer or two ago, whenever it got hot out, the check engine light would start to come on. Usually, it didn't affect the car's driveability - but sometimes, it would cause the car to buck and/or stall, sometimes to the point of stalling completely out. Brought it into the shop again and again. Camshaft sensor. O2 sensor. Crankshaft sensor. Replaced. Checked. P0304 misfire code came up in diagnostics again and again. Re-wiring of camshaft sensor wires. And on and on. And yet again, intermittently, the check engine light would come back on and the whole thing would start all over again. Sometimes you'd drive it, stop somewhere, start it again, and the check engine light would be gone. Sometimes it would stay on for days. Weeks. Sometimes with no other driving symptoms - it just depends on how the car is feeling? I thought the problem was limited to the hot months of summer, but now it's the dead of January in Minnesota and it's happening again. Yesterday, it stalled out completely and I had to get it towed to the shop - decided to try a new shop, they said maybe the problem was that the old shop did a bad wiring job. OK. But then, got the car back, no check engine light on first drive, stopped somewhere for 5 minutes, get back in, start it again, check engine light back on. But at least the car started and didn't buck/stall. Now it's back in the shop, but I'm ready to give up.
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What is ABS code 18 2001 PT Cruiser???
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I have a 2002 chrysler pt cruiser. For the past week when I start to crank it it will just click one or two times then crank. Today it won't start at all just clicking.
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I have a 2007 PT Cruiser that's just about to hit the 100,000-mile mark. My problem is when stopped, the car feels like it wants to stall, but only when the AC/Heater/Defrost is on. Also, when it starts to act up, the heater stops working, leaving only the fan to blow air around. It doesn't happen all the time, but enough to make me turn off the heater or whatever I'm using when I come to a red light. It just started doing this and I just wanted to have a rough idea as to what it was before I took it to a mechanic.
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After running for a while traveling to and from the store, my temperature gauge on my 2005 PT cruiser rises to hot and the temperature light comes on. However,when I get out and raise the hood. The engine doesn't seem to be overly hot. No boiling or hissing sound and no steam coming from the engine.
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Recently my PT Cruiser was having trouble shifting into park so the car could not be started or the key could not be removed. I had to force it into park a few times and then something popped and broke. The car thinks it's in drive so it will no longer crank. I took a look under the hood and the shifter cable looks to be fine and connected properly but what I found under the center console seems to be the problem. The entire cable and plastic mechanism move freely. To me it seems as if the plastic piece holding the cable aligned is quite stuck. The metal rod looks like it's supposed to move inside the casing? Here are some photos of what we're dealing with.
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A/C works fine when moving. At idle, it doesn't work. Fan is not spinning. Is it definitely a bad fan or is it a possible fuse/switch/module? How difficult it would be for a novice to replace the fan?
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I was driving the car down the freeway, hear a loud bang from underneath the engine, immeadiately ceased accelerating over 15 MPH and would not reverse.
As it stands now the car will start up, but not reverse, or accelerate over 15 MPH without the RPMs revving like mad. Think it might be tranny-related...
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