My engine light went on when driving about 45mph. At same time engine began to bog down, then accelerate - then bog down again.Car is a 04 pt cruiser, Chrysler 4 cylinder Engine light still on and it starts but it seems to be running roughly.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2005 PT Cruiser convertible. 3 times now ghetto accelerator has stuck down. The engine light comes on and after stomping on the pedal and releasing it, the car does not want to accelerate and sitters as if it will cut out. After about a minute everything clears up and works normally. I have taken the car into 3 repair shops including the dealership and they cannot recreate the problem ...
View 6 RepliesI have a 2002 Chrysler PT Cruiser manual transmission with 91,420 miles. The engine service light came on over a month ago (today Aug. 24, 2012). Little by little, a major tune up, a new battery, new plugs, O2 censors, condenser, wires, PVC valve, new gas cap, gas treatment, two tanks of premium gas, the light would not cut off. So off to the Auto Zone to get analyzed twice the code was P0601. Researching the internet, this P0601 code meant the PCM needed to be reprogrammed by the dealer. I called a Chrysler dealer here in Austin and was told that reprogramming the PCM may or may not cut the light off. So today and $100.00 later, the PCM was reprogrammed and the light was off when I left the dealership this morning. But it turned back on when I was leaving work this afternoon. My car needs the annual state inspection and it will not pass.
View 7 RepliesAfter running for a while traveling to and from the store, my temperature gauge on my 2005 PT cruiser rises to hot and the temperature light comes on. However,when I get out and raise the hood. The engine doesn't seem to be overly hot. No boiling or hissing sound and no steam coming from the engine.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 PT Cruiser who's airbag light seems to go on and off randomly. Some days it will stay off all day. Other times it will stay lit for days on end.
Some times it will go off for 10 to 20 seconds, then come back on with a chime for 10 seconds, then off again. Off...on...off...on....it will do it for 45 minutes or so or until the car is shut off and restarted.
Occasionally, the light coming on seems to correspond with hitting a pot hole or rough patch, but that could just be coincidence because it is not consistent.
Both the driver and passenger airbags were replaced about a year ago, during round 1 of fixing this problem (to get through state inspection.) It worked for about a year, and now its back. It makes me think I was taken for almost $2,000 replacing those in the first place. The steering wheel clockspring was also replaced around the same time.
I see from searching online that I am not the only one that has seen this with this model car.
my car is a 2007 Chrysler PT Cruiser with over 75K on it. My problem is two fold. First, recently the right rear turn signal light shorts out but only in the morning it seems. Because we've been getting a lot of rain in Nashville and the surrounding area, I suspect the high dewpoint and humidity might play a part here but I think I just need to replace the bulb.The second issue is a little more annoying. For whatever reason, the "air bag warning" light on the driver side console comes on and I cannot figure out why.The third issue is a little more pressing. I noticed during the summer whenever I was idling and had the A/C running, occasionally I would hear the engine act like it was about to stall out, like RPMs had dropped significantly. Now I've noticed it does that when the front defroster is running and winter is coming. What can I do about any of these problems listed here?
View 7 RepliesI just wanted to post this due to the problem I was having with this code. I recently replaced a broken timing belt on my 2005 pt cruiser (non-turbo). Everything went back together, minus the hours trying to get the timing marks lined up by myself. After getting the engine buttoned up, the car would crank and idle, but only after 2000 rpm and the engine code P0016 would show up. I went back into the engine, reset the timing belt, and cranked it before putting everything back together. Worked fine, so buttoned it back up and took it for a test drive.
Bam, same engine code pops up again, only this time the car acted like it wanted to go into limp mode for half a second after driving for a few miles when I was turning around to come back to the house. It straightened up and drove fine. I could drive the car fine even after that, made a few test drives into town. The car would kind of fight limp mode after first cranking the car and accelerating, but then straighten up.
After a couple of months of research and talking to a friend who is a pretty good mechanic, I decided this was an electrical problem. I checked, and sure enough, after looking at the wiring at the cam shaft sensor connector, it was frayed. I spliced it and still had some issues with the code. I had just put a new sensor on it when the belt broke thinking it might be the sensor, so I put the old sensor back on it and now it runs fine, no more light. So, after months of thinking the timing or tone rings might be off, it was just a wiring/sensor issue.
I have a 2005 PT Cruiser non-turbo. A short time back, the tensioner bolt broke on the alternator and after spending several months going back and forth with the dealer, I was finally able to find the correct size bolt to replace it. Shortly afterwards, I began to hear a scraping sound coming from the engine compartment. The sound is sporadic, and only lasts for a short time. The sound only appears to happen when the engine is idling down when coming to a stop, and it doesn't always do it.
It doesn't make the noise when accelerating, in fact, the noise quits when I accelerate. The noise sounds like metal being drug on concrete, or a grinding sound. Is this a possible bearing going out on the alternator or possibly the AC clutch/bearing? The noise is not present during normal driving conditions, just when the car is almost at a stop and stops as acceleration occurs. I have reached in to see if possibly a loose pulley/bad bearing on the alternator, but there is no slack there. Is it possible that I have the alternator belt too tight, or is this another issue?
I recently had a caliper replaced on the front driver's side wheel. I had driven it a bit at highway speeds before I realized it needed to be replaced.Now, the car drives fine while cold or at normal temperatures. The problem will start after heavy use of the brakes, like when my wife is driving (I down shift) or going downhill. Once the disks heat up the steering starts to build a noticeable wobble. The more brake usage the more wobble and if I lay off the brakes so they cool off a bit the wobble will go away.I figure one of the front disks is warping as they heat. Would this be a good assumption?If so, what is a good way to figure out which side is the culprit without having to change the rotor twice if I get it wrong the first time?
View 12 RepliesMy '06 Pt Cruiser A/C works fine @ speed, but idling and @ stop lights it blows moist warmish air and idles roughly.
View 7 RepliesWhen ever the car stops at a traffic light or stop sign, the air compressor cycles rapidly and the cool air turns warm. I was told the cooling fan was not coming on, but the other day the fan was cycling and the cool air stayed cool. My question is what controls the cooling fan operation? It seems the high pressure switch is working correctly and the fan motor is working. As long as I'm driving the air is cool.
View 2 RepliesHere's the scoop, was driving down the freeway the other day, car is a 2001 PT Cruiser going about 65-70 MPH when all the sudden it felt as if I had hit something, a loud bump sound which came from underneath the engine, then an immediate reduction in speed and acceleration. After that, I was trying to accelerate the car, the RPMs were revving like crazy but the car would not go more than 15 MPH, while the RPMs were revving and revving, almost as if I was in park.
Got the car to the side of the road, opened the hood and found that the top of the dipstick (transmission) had blown off and shot transmission fluid all over the engine. Unsure of why this happened but sure that was what the loud sound was before the drastic drop in acceleration.
After that I had the car towed to my house, now it will start, but not drive in reverse at all, i'm afraid to try driving it to inspect it further but that's pretty much where I am at right now. There's 117k miles on this car...
My son's wife has a PT Cruiser, she told me last night that it has a shimmy at 70 mph. What are the causes of this ?
View 10 RepliesMy PT has a vibration, I've replaced rear drums, rear hub assemblies, front brakes and front rotors and all four tires.The vibration is only while going 55 to 60 MPH each time I've replaced the different parts (rotated the tires and rear drums) the wobble seems to go away for about a few miles and then comes back!I'm going to replace the front hubs and bearings now, but why would the wobble change each time I changed I've changed all these parts around. Could it be a bent rim? or just the front bearings?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2004 PT Cruiser with 111,000 miles on it. A summer or two ago, whenever it got hot out, the check engine light would start to come on. Usually, it didn't affect the car's driveability - but sometimes, it would cause the car to buck and/or stall, sometimes to the point of stalling completely out. Brought it into the shop again and again. Camshaft sensor. O2 sensor. Crankshaft sensor. Replaced. Checked. P0304 misfire code came up in diagnostics again and again. Re-wiring of camshaft sensor wires. And on and on. And yet again, intermittently, the check engine light would come back on and the whole thing would start all over again. Sometimes you'd drive it, stop somewhere, start it again, and the check engine light would be gone. Sometimes it would stay on for days. Weeks. Sometimes with no other driving symptoms - it just depends on how the car is feeling? I thought the problem was limited to the hot months of summer, but now it's the dead of January in Minnesota and it's happening again. Yesterday, it stalled out completely and I had to get it towed to the shop - decided to try a new shop, they said maybe the problem was that the old shop did a bad wiring job. OK. But then, got the car back, no check engine light on first drive, stopped somewhere for 5 minutes, get back in, start it again, check engine light back on. But at least the car started and didn't buck/stall. Now it's back in the shop, but I'm ready to give up.
View 5 RepliesWhat is ABS code 18 2001 PT Cruiser???
View 14 RepliesI have a 2002 chrysler pt cruiser. For the past week when I start to crank it it will just click one or two times then crank. Today it won't start at all just clicking.
View 2 RepliesI have an 05 pt cruiser that idles rough sporadically. Sometimes it idles smooth, sometimes it is rough but will calm down when i shift into gear, and sometimes it is rough when i let off the gas and come to a stop sign. When i first crank the car, the idle is rough and will act like it wants to cut out when i first back out of the driveway, but it clears up and drives better after getting gas. I have changed the plugs and wires, which did work, but there is something else still causing some problems. When at cruising speed, you can't detect any stutters or other problems. I looked at the vacuum lines and have a bottle of injector cleaner on 3 tanks of gas back to back with no apparent change. I did put a PCM on it a few years back, is it possible it has gone bad? The gas mileage also has seem to be suffering. I also checked the air filter as a possible problem, but it is very clean.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2007 PT Cruiser that's just about to hit the 100,000-mile mark. My problem is when stopped, the car feels like it wants to stall, but only when the AC/Heater/Defrost is on. Also, when it starts to act up, the heater stops working, leaving only the fan to blow air around. It doesn't happen all the time, but enough to make me turn off the heater or whatever I'm using when I come to a red light. It just started doing this and I just wanted to have a rough idea as to what it was before I took it to a mechanic.
View 6 RepliesI drove the car to town this morning, and then to work without problems. I go to get in the car and the car has no electrical power what so ever. I am going to check the voltage and battery terminals, but is there a fuse that sends power to everything in the car, including lights, horn, etc? There is NO power at all.
View 5 RepliesRecently my PT Cruiser was having trouble shifting into park so the car could not be started or the key could not be removed. I had to force it into park a few times and then something popped and broke. The car thinks it's in drive so it will no longer crank. I took a look under the hood and the shifter cable looks to be fine and connected properly but what I found under the center console seems to be the problem. The entire cable and plastic mechanism move freely. To me it seems as if the plastic piece holding the cable aligned is quite stuck. The metal rod looks like it's supposed to move inside the casing? Here are some photos of what we're dealing with.
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