Chrysler - Ptcruiser :: 2001 - Gauge Is Overheating - Head Gasket?
Jul 20, 2012
My 83 year old mom has a 2001 pt cruiser. The gauge is overheating. Some water was leaking from the radiator, not a lot. 3 mechanics have given estimates. The first said it was the water pump. The second said per computer is was not the water pump from his experience it was the head gasket. Third thought it was the radiator cap then said no. A hose was somewhat loose but that did not cause the problem. It heats up going down the hill and not up a hill. Water pump is okay must be the head gasket. Both said it held 15 lbs of pressure. She is too upset to handle this and it is left up to me. Do you think it is the head gasket?
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After running for a while traveling to and from the store, my temperature gauge on my 2005 PT cruiser rises to hot and the temperature light comes on. However,when I get out and raise the hood. The engine doesn't seem to be overly hot. No boiling or hissing sound and no steam coming from the engine.
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I just recently had problems with my V6 accord, is been overheating, I just know that is the head gasket because it has all symptoms, creamy appearance in engine oil cap. vapor and the end pipes after hours of running and multiple misfire, no thermostat and still overheating with no leakages.
I add a block sealer and now the car is working fine (Block Seal, Head Gasket Repair, Bar's Leaks brand).
I would like to replace the head gasket in my V6, but I was told that I need to the surface finish to flat the head and in the lower part too (block), is this correct?
I know that this must be done in the upper part (head) but never heard that this must be done also in the lower part (block).
I have a 2007 accord V6 Engine 4 door sedan SE.
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my friends mechanic is telling him his 2000 outback (2.5 4 cyl) has a blown head gasket. there is NO water leaking/seeping out from anywhere outside the motor AND there is NO water in the crankcase motor oil. the thermostat has been replaced. the cooling fans work. I'm inclined to say it's a plugged radiator. he is considering replacing the head gasket (to the tune of $1500+) on advice of his mechanic. is it possible to have a blown head gasket and not be leaking coolant?
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I have the same problem as the gentleman w/ the '97 4x4 4.6. Intermittent overheating. The water pump and t-stat have both been replaced, as well as the radiator. Some one told me a piece of gasket material from the heater core may be floating around and periodically clogging things. Could this happen? and what's the fix? Also, someone told the guy w/ the 4x4, that he could have blown head gasket, and to perform a sniffer test to find out.#1. What is a sniffer test? #2. If the head gasket is blown, wouldn't there be water in the oil?
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I've been having trouble with the cooling system of my 2005 Kia Sedona (about 90,000 miles) and a couple months back I had the system flushed, coolant added and thermostat replace. Not long after this the overheating started up again. After the first five minutes of driving, the thermostat starts creeping up above the half way mark and within about ten minutes it hits the H. My vents also don't blow heat. After ten minutes the heat SOMETIMES suddenly kicks in after the needle hits H, but it's kind of inconsistent and sometimes I get no heat even after hitting H and sometimes I get a little heat and then it goes away. I only drive it 15 minutes each way so am not sure what would happen if I kept driving.
Anyway, I took it back to the shop and they did a pressure test and said they thought it was a leaky head gasket and that they couldn't do the repair and I should take it to a Kia dealer. I picked it up and on my way home I noticed I was getting heat from the vents immediately and the thermostat stayed at the halfway mark. No overheating. Is it possible they are wrong and the pressure test knocked some air out of the system and that the test actually fixed the problem? Can a pressure test give a false result?
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I just bought a 95' 3.0 V6 4 runner that had overheating issues that caused head gasket to fail. I fixed all the reasons it was blowing the gasket with a new radiator & thermo. Now, temp no longer an issue but the automatic trans is slipping but has been getting alittle better as I drive it more. I noticed the trans fluid was pretty burnned when I replaced radiator..so will replacing the trans fluid & filter fix this issue ? Or could there be another issue ? My check engine light is also on, I will check the codes soon. I am getting horrible gas mileage, but probly from the slipping trans I guess.
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My 2005 Civic is overheating at random times. My mechanic couldn't find the problem so I took it to the dealer and they replaced the thermostat and a fan switch. That didn't work so now they tell me I have a blown head gasket ($1,458)... but there's no water in the oil and no gray smoke. They say the coolant leaks into the block until there's not enough circulating and it overheats. Then, when it cools, the coolant goes back into the reservoir and that's why it never seems to be low on coolant. I've seen other Civic overheating letters (including a 2005 that sounded like my exact problem) but I never saw an update about what fixed the problem.
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What is ABS code 18 2001 PT Cruiser???
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I brought my Outback to one mechanic due to overheating and a strange skipping feeling when accelerating. First mechanic said head gaskets needed to be replaced, I wasn't surprised since I have about 142k miles on it and it has been leaking oil, quoted between $1800 and $2000. I took it to another shop, recommended by a friend, and they agreed the gaskets needed to be replaced and there was also a misfire due to the spark plugs. This shop quoted me at $2200-2600 for the head gaskets, spark plugs, all wires and timing belt, all other engine gaskets, thermostat, engine oil and coolant. I still owe a good bit on this car (parents bought on the fly from a less than stellar used lot and now it is my problem), and my thinking is I do not want to bring on more debt by attempting to trade this one in and go for a new car. My question is, do I go with the second mechanic that wants to basically rebuild to top of my engine, or would I be ok limiting the repairs to the head gaskets and spark plugs?
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I have a problem with my Stratus, its the 2005 V6 MotoR 2.7L 24 valves Chrysler LH (USA imported model)
The problem started months ago when a piece that connect several hoses and it have the temperature sensor (coolant air bleeder?) broke, we replaced it for a new one and also changed the thermostat, however the car still overheated (the heat level didnt ascend from half so the fans didn't went on) and the cooling water from the deposit was bubbling, behind the spot where the deposit is, white smoke/steam (?) was coming out and it was making a weird noise also.I changed the water deposit pressure cap, but it keeps doing the same.This happens just 15 min after I turn on the car so the mechanic disconected a piece from the fans, so the fans are always on. Still, after 45 minutes it start again.
The mechanic did a test in the deposit they said that the pressure was very high and it was probably a problem with the head gaskets, it can be that?
Researching for my own, I found that it can also can be a problem with the water pump, and maybe it needs to be replaced
What should I do?Is there any test that I can do to know if the head gasket is the problem or if the water pump isn't working?I don't want to buy the head gasket and realize that the problem was the water pump, or the other way round
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Radiator replaced 2 yrs. ago - required major rust cleanout; reservoir replaced shortly thereafter. Recently engine always hot, antifreeze disappearing, reservoir always looks rusty, nothing much coming out underneath, mechanic pressure tested and couldn't find a leak, told to watch for antifreeze in oil, none apparent. Now suddenly car ran hot, antifreeze came out of reservoir, cap replaced, still couldn't find leak. Today said head gasket blown. Repair head gasket, but can't guarantee wouldn't still have radiator problems. Suggested could try Blue Devil head gasket repair but may not work.
Is it worth :
(a) trying the Blue Devil;
(b) repairing the head gasket?
Or will I still have major repair needs with radiator etc.? I really can't afford even a cheap replacement car.
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I was driving the car down the freeway, hear a loud bang from underneath the engine, immeadiately ceased accelerating over 15 MPH and would not reverse.
As it stands now the car will start up, but not reverse, or accelerate over 15 MPH without the RPMs revving like mad. Think it might be tranny-related...
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I just changed the multi-function switch on my 2001 PT Cruiser, because someone suggested it since my turn signals were not blinking or clicking. The turn signals come on, but do not blink or make that clicking sound at all. They just stay on. The hazards do not blink or click either. Lights and all work fine. It's just the turn signals and hazards that do not. What else controls the clicking and blinking of the turn signals and flashers. Could it be the relay that's inside the multi-function switch? I'm almost 100% sure we checked all the fuses, but I could be missing something.
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My 2001 PT Cruiser began to over heat today. By the time I immediately pulled off the road and smoke began to come out from under the hood. Once I stopped I heard a bubbling noise and watched as all my coolant steadily dripped onto the ground (almost a pour). What does this mean?
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drives nice for mile or 2, stalls. turns and turns for 10 minutes, then starts. drives great for mile or 2, stalls. wait 10 minutes, starts. repeat, repeat!!
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my truck at 210k miles got a new radiator (seeping at seams), thermostat, water pump (bearings shot, leaking), intake manifold (The crossover was leaking). It now has 227k miles. Oil leak in rear at head gasket by starter (bad head gasket?) It overheated the other day( blowing coolant out the expansion tank needle in the red) Replaced thermostat. Drove around for two full hours, seemed fine, Drove to work today it overheated ( same thing, blowing coolant needle pegged) didn't make it to work. There are no external leaks and its not putting steam or white smoke out the exhaust. I read somewhere that a blown head gasket could make the truck overheat, is that possible? What all could cause this problem?
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Having an intermittent problem on my 2002 Chrysler Sebring LX (about 132,000 miles). Often I can drive around and everything is okay. However, it seems like every 11 days or so, the temperature gauge starts to climb above the halfway mark and toward the danger zone. Only once has it gotten all the way up to the red danger zone and illuminated the warning light, and that was the very first time. It was fortunate that this happened the exact moment I reached home and parked in my driveway.
When the temperature gauge starts to climb above the halfway mark, I've tried to turn on the heater to cool it down, but this doesn't work. The heater just blows cold air. So far I have been taking the following steps:
1) Stop driving and park the car for 10 minutes or more.
2) Fill the coolant tank under the hood with coolant. I'm putting in about half a gallon each time.
3) Continue driving.
After this process, the heater is again blowing warm air and the temperature gauge is staying at a safe level. It seems to persist for about 11 - 14 days then the cycle starts all over.
It happened last night following a drive of about 5 miles home from the gym. Since I had no more driving to do that day, I just parked it overnight to see if this was a fluke and if it would be necessary to add more coolant.
This morning I drove the same 5 miles. Temperature gauge stayed pretty low for about half the trip, but then rapidly shot up. I got to the gym before it reached the danger zone (it was probably about 3/4 of the way up). I parked for a little over an hour while I went inside to exercise. Then I again added half a gallon of coolant and drove home without problems.
The last time I had overheating issues, the coolant rapidly spilled out of the bottom and the overheating was not preventable. I got the radiator replaced. This was in October 2013. I've also tried some of that stop leak fluid. It didn't work, but I'm not so sure I used it correctly. I didn't flush the tank and I think I might have poured it in on a normal driving day (coolant pretty full).
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I've been told that the 2002 Santa Fe that I drive has a small leak in the head gasket and that this will be a major problem for the A/C compressor in the not-too-distant future. Supposedly the compressor is located below where the leak is and that over time (5-6 months) this can/will cause the compressor to need to be replaced. Does this seem like a credible scenario?
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2001 Chevy Silverado with a 5.3 L engine and a leaking head gasket that was getting worse (at 217,000 miles). Car has rusted body (upstate NY), so not going to spend too much for repairs. Decided to try one of those "magic elixors" in a bottle. Went for the Bars Leaks head gasket repair stuff - Followed directions, etc (put it into the top radiator tube, NOT the overflow bottle). The stuff had little strings of copper-looking stuff floating in it. It worked. After a little more loss of coolant, the coolant loss has finally stopped. Amazing that something like this really worked.
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Had the head gasket replaced and metal machined due to HG failure. 2001 Forester, 120K miles. After I got it back, a bad oil smell. Cleaned and sprayed it, still there, though less; seems to be on drivers side. Comes into cabin from the air vents below windshield when stopped.
Could it be the line from manifold vacuum to brake master cylinder ie servo amplifier? Or something else?Should I worry? The car seems to get about 15 mpg, used to get 18 mpg, and the check engine MIL is on.
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