Chrysler - Pacifica :: Creaking Noise Coming From Front End And Only Appear At Very Slow Speeds
Mar 5, 2013
I am considering purchasing a 2004 Chrysler Pacifica. It seems to be in excellent shape except for one thing--it makes a very noticeable creaking noise. The noise is coming from the front end and seems to only appear at very slow speeds (like in parking lots). The seller told me up front about the noise, and explained that it didn't start until he had someone "jerk" him out of a snowdrift in Colorado. He says that was about 4 years ago. He tells me he has had the front end aligned, he has had two motor mounts replaced and has had either the tie rods, or the tie rod ends (I'm not sure which) replaced, but the noise is still there. He claims mechanics can't find anything else wrong with it, and they assure him it is safe to drive.
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My a/c has worked just fine until about 30 minutes ago. Now, there is nothing coming out of the vents in the front, but plenty is coming out of the rear vents. What could this mean?
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We have a 2006 Pacifica which as of recent has been slow to warm in the cabin, especially after a couple hour rest (oddly enough, it warms faster after sitting overnight). Also, when checking the fluids, we noticed that the coolant reservoir was just about empty. We added more 50/50 HOAT coolant, maybe 40-50 oz to get it normal cool engine level. This was done when the engine was cold. My wife noticed that the engine has been running warmer than normal. Normal is maybe a quarter the way up on the temp gauge, where it was around the halfway point, still far from the red zone but not its normal level.
This symptom has been going on for maybe a week. After adding additional coolant, the level stayed where we filled it as the engine warmed up. The heater warmed up to a normal level from what I can tell (it is 30 degrees warmer than last week) so it didn't start with a freezing cabin. I haven't seen any leaking of coolant, since I'm sure I would notice a hot pink puddle under the car. This is pretty typical or the sign of something major. It has around 80k miles on it.
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I have a 03 mkIV 2.0 with just over 106k miles. I have been noticing a sqeak/creaking noise coming from the front end usually at slow speeds and going over small bumps or even bad backroads. I can simply push down on the front of the car and hear it and it sounds just terrible. I took it to my local tire shop and they said it could be my sway bay links and bushings, but they look brand new and show no signs of deterioration. My struts and shocks are fine. Could it be ball joints or control arms?
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A while back I posted a thread trying to fix a clicking noise coming from the front end on my F-350 dually when applying the brakes at slow speeds (under 15 mph).
While returning from our camping trip last week the noise is back again. It does not occur after the truck sits overnight or for a few hours. But after driving for 30 minutes or longer the clicking will return when I apply the brakes at slow speeds. I tested the rotor temps with a heat gun and it seems to start when the rotor temps get above 120 degrees F. So I removed the brake pads & calipers, regreased the slide pins, cleaned up the pads and applied some lubricant on the back of the pads. I also bent the pad clips so they would fit snugger/tighter in the slots.
Whatever I did seemed to cure the clicking while driving around this weekend. I made sure I got the front brakes nice and warm - up to 180 degrees or so.
When I did this same procedure a few months ago the clicking went away - but eventually returned.
Should I get some better clips? Replace the sliding pins? Pads? The rotors & pads were replaced this winter & the shop said they and the labor are still under warranty. But if they use the same clips - I'm concerned I'll be back to square one in a month or so.
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I have a Chrysler pacifica 2006 .Later in 2009 I had a problem ( 'tapping noise' coming from the engine). I took the car to the dealer, since at that time I still have warranty (39,000 miles). They changed: 18 arms (6 of each type) 8 dowel pin, belt and the lifters. Last year I started hearing the same noise again. The car was with 56,000 miles. I thought it should be under the warranty (service done), but it wasn't. So I decided to have the dealership servicing the repair. This time the part changed was only one. The receipt says they changed the 'arm-inlet and exhaust valve'. Guess what ? the noise still there and they say they won't open the car without me paying for the diagnosis ( many hour of labor for sure!).What can I do?
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So my 2012 Elantra developed a "creaking" noise coming from the wheel when warmed up and at low speeds. It almost sounded like really old heavy door when it opens that goes "thunk thunk thunk" as it sticks.
I usually work on my own cars, but for so me reason I took it to the dealership because I didn't know where it was coming from. After a 30 minute test drive to reproduce the issue, he took another 30 minutes to tell me that an "axle bolt" was loose and needed to be tightening.
I've never heard of an axle bolt - I'm only asking now because the issue's come back a few months later, and I know the dealership's gonna charge me again if I ask. Can't be that hard if it didn't take him more than 20 minutes to fix. Are they referring to the main cv/axle nut?
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Installed ST coilovers at 2200 miles, my only suspension mod. When I'm backing up or going at really slow speeds and turning there is a very annoying creaking/grinding noise. I've taken everything apart and looked at it again to no avail. Anything I should be looking for in specific?Could it be from over-tightening? Just thought I'd ask here before I take it to a shop.
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I have a 2012 gti with 29k miles. Now I changed to coil overs for a shot amount of time however I shortly went back to stock for comfort. For the past few thousand miles I have been getting this creaking sound when turning left parked or slow speeds. I thought it might be strut mounts but its only left and isn't a clunking. I have three videos of the sounds so you can see what I'm talking about. I have heard of the infamous cv boot problem but if you look at the last video you can see the Cv boot looks in good shape..
Squeaking (my car)
Cv boot condition
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I've recently been having a metallic creaking/rattle go on when idle or moving at slow speeds. I took it in during my 20k service and they said there was something with a cable and the heat shield... the service manager had also said something about the catlytic converter - but when I re-checked the service slip - nothing. This was originally in March.
The noise came back again recently so I had a different dealer check it out when I finally had the fuel tank recall done. They confirmed the noise and checked the heat shield (I had told them about the original complaint), but said there wasn't much that can be done - they made sure all the bolts were tight, but the noise was coming from the heat shield "flexing."
Most of the time it's fine and the noise went away for several months. It's subtle again, but if it becomes constant - it seems like I have a valid argument to have the heat shield replaced - seems defective.
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I have a 2002 chrysler town and country van. The check eng. light came on about 6mths ago but did not affect the way it ran, but tonight my wife was driving in it after filling the gas and started to sputter slow at slow speeds and really sputters at higher speeds. should i be looking for water in the fuel.
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I have a 00 expedition 4wheel drive eddie bauer. 100k miles. New tires, recent alignment, new upper ball joints and tie rod ends, recent suspension change over to passive system with new shocks. Also must note I have "newer" front wheel bearings but they were from advance auto and not the suggested Moog ones.
I have a loud clicking noise at slow speeds. def sounds like its coming from the front area. Speeds up and slows down with acceleration. brakes do not change noise other than slow it down with tires. The truck also vibrates on the highway. I notice the tires are wearing (cupping)
Is it the cheap wheel bearings? what is the best way to test for bad wheel bearings? i think they are under warranty if I can find the receipt. Anything else i should test? can it be c/v joints or something?
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We just purchased a 2004 Chrysler Pacifica with 21,000 miles. However the EVIC system does not come on. I understand you need to remove the dashboard to change the fuse, which is soldered onto the circuit board. So we need to purchase circuit board to replace a fuse??
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Every once in a while, while driving my 06 350 SRW at slow speeds, I hear a grinding noise coming from the left side of the truck. It is almost like a winding grinding noise if that makes sense. It will grind slow to a stop, and then I hear a clunk.
This is a very intermittent problem. The tires are completely shot on the truck, and I thought that would be it, but considering it is intermittent and the clunk I hear as I come to a stop I figured it could be it.
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I have a 1991 Toyota Corolla Wagon (150,000 miles) with noise coming from right front wheel well. My car is making groaning and creaking noises like the hinges of an old wooden door. CV joints serviced <5000 miles and the boots are clean and intact. There is no clicking noises during a turn Left or Right. Bouncing the right front corner does not replicate the sounds, tho' there is some slight squeaking noise not heard from the shocks/struts in the other corners. The sound is NOT heard in the morning going to work, but is very noticeable driving home at 5pm. I notice the sound going downhill at 35 mph, but goes away with light braking, Going over railroad tracks does not affect the noises. I'm thinking this could be worn bushings, strut mounts or who knows what?
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My 2004 Pacifica (130k miles) was left parked for 2 weeks while we were away. Upon return it didn't wqnt to back out of the parking spot. After about 1/2 revolution the wheels made a clanking sound and hung up. Rolling back and forth freed things up enough to drive the car to the mechanic (about 40 miles). And after the first mile or so everything seemed to go back to normal, with no absolutely signs of anything not wanting to turn smoothly.. The mechanic thought that the problem had been that the brakes were sticking due to the car being unused and said nothing needed to be done. However, upon examination he found that we could use new front brakes and 2 motor mounts. He said that the need for brakes and motor mounts was due to normal wear and tear, and was not related to the wheels hanging up issue.
But now, immediately after installation of 2 new front rotors and pads and 2 new motor mounts there is a vibration/shudder when braking from anything more than 20-30 mph, which was never there before. The shudder is rapid and sometimes pronounced like going over the warning groves cut into the edges of pavement on the interstate. He thinks that this may be a sign that there is a driveshaft issue, and dismisses it as due to an out of round rotor since they are new. I don't know what to think. By the way, he has always been an excellent mechanic, with a great reputation and loyal following.
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2005 Chrysler Pacifica TouringWhen pressing on the brakes at speeds over 25 the steering wheel wobbles. I have had this problem in the past and it has been diagnosed as warped discs. They have been turned and it fixes it for a while then it comes back and again warped discs. I have had the discs replaced but it has come back time after time.
Just had it checked out and they are saying it again, warped discs and this time cannot be turned need to be replaced but they also showed me I need new lower arms.
What do the lower arms do? And if I do not replace them will I have the same problem later with the front discs getting warped?
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Have a 2003 Honda Accord with 178K miles on it. Excellent service and maintenance on the car. After this winter (midwest) I notice a creaking sound (like bedsprings) coming from the front end, passenger side. Car also seems rather bouncy on rough roads. Husband check the shocks and struts and says they are fine. What else could it be? Sway bar, ball joints, etc. and estimated cost - will take to a mechanic...
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Since Ive got my 2010 Tiguan 2.0 TSI, I hear a creaking noise coming from the front right suspension when riding over uneven pavement. The dealer said it is a common known problem from many Tiguans caused by the engine mount and that VW recommends the change of that part.
The new engine mount is slightly different from the one that is installed in my car. I am still waiting for the part to arrive and to be changed. Meanwhile, I spoke with another 2010 Tiguan owner, here in Brazil, whose car has already received the new part.
He said that the creaking noise has gone but now he feels more vibration coming from the engine and a kind of "diesel-engine-sound" when accelerating... Location of the engine mount: [URL] ....
The "old" engine mount bears the code:
5N0 199 262 G
5AY CN
M086
09/03/27
[URL] ....
The "new" engine mount bears the code:
5N0 199 262 E
5AY CN
M082
09/03/10
[URL] ....
I assume that the first number is the part number, the last is the manufacturing date and the others are either car model or manufacturer code or anything else. Note that the part number is the same, except by the letter suffix: "G" in the "old" one and "E" in the "new" part. Well, the suffix designation does not make sense for an evolutionary design...
My questions are:
1) Is it a new design or is it a roll back to an older part that does not cause that problem although it was probably modified due to another issue?
2) Is this part number specific for 2.0 TSI engine or is it the same for other engines (petrol/diesel)?
3) Which engine mount have you got on your cars?
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So my Pacifica, after a long road trip around a year and a half ago, had it's check engine light come on. The meter read P0305, which is cylinder 5 misfire. When I got home, my local trusted mechanic replaced the coil and wire. Since then, the same misfire has occurred at least 4 times, and 3 of which he replaced the same parts (free warranty swap of the parts). The last time, he was determined that it wasn't simply the parts going bad. I concur. It has now lasted roughly a month and the light is back on with the same code. The spans have been as little as a week between leaving the shop and the light coming back on. I personally don't feel the car riding rougher than normal, but my wife does. I don't smell gas, have odd colored exhaust, or any other issue. The only other thing, which idk if it's related, is a clicking noise from the engine, which quickens with revving, perhaps the risers. What else could it be? I read that Chrysler's go to is a valve spring retainer lock and a MAP sensor that accompanies it.
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I drive a 2006 Pacifica and lately the engine has been causing me some grief. When I am in park, neutral, or in gear but stopped, the engine will sometimes rev up and my speedometer will jump accordingly sometimes as high as 30 mph. My first thought was that it might be a transmission issue, but I'm not a car mechanic so I don't know much along the lines of what to check or do. The model is an automatic 3.5L
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