Chrysler - Pacifica :: 2004 - EVIC System Does Not Come On
Jun 15, 2013
We just purchased a 2004 Chrysler Pacifica with 21,000 miles. However the EVIC system does not come on. I understand you need to remove the dashboard to change the fuse, which is soldered onto the circuit board. So we need to purchase circuit board to replace a fuse??
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My a/c has worked just fine until about 30 minutes ago. Now, there is nothing coming out of the vents in the front, but plenty is coming out of the rear vents. What could this mean?
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My 2004 Pacifica (130k miles) was left parked for 2 weeks while we were away. Upon return it didn't wqnt to back out of the parking spot. After about 1/2 revolution the wheels made a clanking sound and hung up. Rolling back and forth freed things up enough to drive the car to the mechanic (about 40 miles). And after the first mile or so everything seemed to go back to normal, with no absolutely signs of anything not wanting to turn smoothly.. The mechanic thought that the problem had been that the brakes were sticking due to the car being unused and said nothing needed to be done. However, upon examination he found that we could use new front brakes and 2 motor mounts. He said that the need for brakes and motor mounts was due to normal wear and tear, and was not related to the wheels hanging up issue.
But now, immediately after installation of 2 new front rotors and pads and 2 new motor mounts there is a vibration/shudder when braking from anything more than 20-30 mph, which was never there before. The shudder is rapid and sometimes pronounced like going over the warning groves cut into the edges of pavement on the interstate. He thinks that this may be a sign that there is a driveshaft issue, and dismisses it as due to an out of round rotor since they are new. I don't know what to think. By the way, he has always been an excellent mechanic, with a great reputation and loyal following.
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2005 Chrysler Pacifica TouringWhen pressing on the brakes at speeds over 25 the steering wheel wobbles. I have had this problem in the past and it has been diagnosed as warped discs. They have been turned and it fixes it for a while then it comes back and again warped discs. I have had the discs replaced but it has come back time after time.
Just had it checked out and they are saying it again, warped discs and this time cannot be turned need to be replaced but they also showed me I need new lower arms.
What do the lower arms do? And if I do not replace them will I have the same problem later with the front discs getting warped?
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I have a Chrysler pacifica 2006 .Later in 2009 I had a problem ( 'tapping noise' coming from the engine). I took the car to the dealer, since at that time I still have warranty (39,000 miles). They changed: 18 arms (6 of each type) 8 dowel pin, belt and the lifters. Last year I started hearing the same noise again. The car was with 56,000 miles. I thought it should be under the warranty (service done), but it wasn't. So I decided to have the dealership servicing the repair. This time the part changed was only one. The receipt says they changed the 'arm-inlet and exhaust valve'. Guess what ? the noise still there and they say they won't open the car without me paying for the diagnosis ( many hour of labor for sure!).What can I do?
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So my Pacifica, after a long road trip around a year and a half ago, had it's check engine light come on. The meter read P0305, which is cylinder 5 misfire. When I got home, my local trusted mechanic replaced the coil and wire. Since then, the same misfire has occurred at least 4 times, and 3 of which he replaced the same parts (free warranty swap of the parts). The last time, he was determined that it wasn't simply the parts going bad. I concur. It has now lasted roughly a month and the light is back on with the same code. The spans have been as little as a week between leaving the shop and the light coming back on. I personally don't feel the car riding rougher than normal, but my wife does. I don't smell gas, have odd colored exhaust, or any other issue. The only other thing, which idk if it's related, is a clicking noise from the engine, which quickens with revving, perhaps the risers. What else could it be? I read that Chrysler's go to is a valve spring retainer lock and a MAP sensor that accompanies it.
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I drive a 2006 Pacifica and lately the engine has been causing me some grief. When I am in park, neutral, or in gear but stopped, the engine will sometimes rev up and my speedometer will jump accordingly sometimes as high as 30 mph. My first thought was that it might be a transmission issue, but I'm not a car mechanic so I don't know much along the lines of what to check or do. The model is an automatic 3.5L
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2007 Pacifica with 4.0 will not fill unless you dribble the fuel into the tank. I have cleared the vent hose and know it is clean. Do I need to change the Carbon Filter and Solenoid/Evaporation Valve on the Front of the Carbon Filter?
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I own a 2006 Chrysler Pacifica and during cold winter months ALL my windows ice-up significantly on the interior. To the point it is clearly a safety issue. Visibility is 0 due to the frost. I have to have the defrost on high at all times just to keep the front windshield clear, which results in making the cabin EXTREMELY uncomfortable (too hot)...for the driver and passenger. The floor mats are not saturated with water, I have NO wet towels in the car...etc. This has been happing from day one and the dealer, well...same old story...they say it's caused by my floor mats and there is nothing wrong....BUT this is NOT normal. I can send a video that shows the issue if you would like.
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I am considering purchasing a 2004 Chrysler Pacifica. It seems to be in excellent shape except for one thing--it makes a very noticeable creaking noise. The noise is coming from the front end and seems to only appear at very slow speeds (like in parking lots). The seller told me up front about the noise, and explained that it didn't start until he had someone "jerk" him out of a snowdrift in Colorado. He says that was about 4 years ago. He tells me he has had the front end aligned, he has had two motor mounts replaced and has had either the tie rods, or the tie rod ends (I'm not sure which) replaced, but the noise is still there. He claims mechanics can't find anything else wrong with it, and they assure him it is safe to drive.
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We have a 2006 Pacifica which as of recent has been slow to warm in the cabin, especially after a couple hour rest (oddly enough, it warms faster after sitting overnight). Also, when checking the fluids, we noticed that the coolant reservoir was just about empty. We added more 50/50 HOAT coolant, maybe 40-50 oz to get it normal cool engine level. This was done when the engine was cold. My wife noticed that the engine has been running warmer than normal. Normal is maybe a quarter the way up on the temp gauge, where it was around the halfway point, still far from the red zone but not its normal level.
This symptom has been going on for maybe a week. After adding additional coolant, the level stayed where we filled it as the engine warmed up. The heater warmed up to a normal level from what I can tell (it is 30 degrees warmer than last week) so it didn't start with a freezing cabin. I haven't seen any leaking of coolant, since I'm sure I would notice a hot pink puddle under the car. This is pretty typical or the sign of something major. It has around 80k miles on it.
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I have a 2004 VW Phaeton.
Today, the sound system failed, then shortly after, the navigation system failed.
On the console, if I press any map/navigation buttons, the error message "Navigation System Unavailable" is displayed.
If I press an audio related button, the error message "DSP system is unavailable". I took it to a private vw repair shop and a vw dealer. What was causing the issue.
I am now headed to a vw dealer with certified phaeton tech. I looked towards fuse issue, but they appear to be ok..
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I have a 2004 Chrysler Sebring with a 2.4L dohc and automatic transmission with 115k miles. I recently had the timing belt and water pump replaced. Shop left the front 2 engine mounting bolts off and the rear one loose. Picked up car after business hours drove it that evening and kept hearing a strange metallic squeak.Returned it to the shop the next morning and as i was driving it began to smoke and stall with the temp gauge pegged. They had also left a hose to the heater core disconnected. Could the engine not being mounted to the chassis and/ or the overheating have damaged the transmission.
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My engine light went on when driving about 45mph. At same time engine began to bog down, then accelerate - then bog down again.Car is a 04 pt cruiser, Chrysler 4 cylinder Engine light still on and it starts but it seems to be running roughly.
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I have 2004 chrysler sebring and lately when I'm at a light/stop sign the rpm gauge fluctuates between 1000 and 500 and wants to stall. I've been told to change the spark plugs and wires, cleaned the throttle body, and put in a new air filter. What else I should do?
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I've gone over every square inch of the rear seats, from both inside and from the trunk, and can't figure out how to fold the back seats down... Usually, there is some kind of latch that you pull, but all I find are baby seat restraints. And from the trunk, I can't find anything. Do these seats fold down at all?
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We have a 04 Town and County with about 97,000 miles on it. If we are sitting still for a period of time, it will drop into limp mode. You actually hear a clunk, then the shift indicator lights up ever gear PRND, they all appear with a box around them as indicated. It happens more often if the AC is running. Actually at stop lights we turn the AC off. It happened in line at a drive in movie once. After it sits for a bit it is fine. No issues going down the road. But it seems to happen if there is not movement.
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I recently had a caliper replaced on the front driver's side wheel. I had driven it a bit at highway speeds before I realized it needed to be replaced.Now, the car drives fine while cold or at normal temperatures. The problem will start after heavy use of the brakes, like when my wife is driving (I down shift) or going downhill. Once the disks heat up the steering starts to build a noticeable wobble. The more brake usage the more wobble and if I lay off the brakes so they cool off a bit the wobble will go away.I figure one of the front disks is warping as they heat. Would this be a good assumption?If so, what is a good way to figure out which side is the culprit without having to change the rotor twice if I get it wrong the first time?
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My 2004 Chrysler Sebring with 128K miles is making a loud whirring noise when I accelerate. It does not happen when I break, coast or am idle. I live in a city and potholes are a way of life. I got four new tires in November and had the alignment checked and fixed at the time. What it could be?
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I have 2004 Chrysler Sebring base model 4 cylinder with 90,000 miles. Paid off long ago. The schedule says its time to change the timing belt but no symptoms. No other issues and have kept up the maintenance. The cost is around $1000. I need the car to last 2 more years until our new car is paid off. Should I do the repair or play the odds that it won't break down?
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I have been driving a 2004 Chrysler Sebring for a few months and noticed that it didn't always stay in gear. I then learned of a problem with another Chrysler model in which there is a "false park" between park and reverse where it seems like the car is in park but it really isn't, and the car will pop into reverse and move. I am not sure if I have the same defect or if there is something else wrong with my car. Sometimes the shifter will move out of park, or even out of drive, with the slightest of nudges of the shifter. There is a button on the shifter that is supposed to be depressed in order to shift, but sometimes it can be moved from park to any other gear, not just reverse, without depressing it or having a foot on the brake. I also found that it would move from drive to neutral while the car was in motion.
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