Chrysler - Lhs :: 1997 - Replaced Ignition Coil / Crankshaft Sensor But Car Won't Start?
Jul 27, 2012
Drove 97 LHS home from work back at the end of June on a 100 plus day, it seemed fine, no indication of any problem. Got in it the next morning to go to work and it would not start. Cranks fine, hear fuel pump. So a few days pass before my husband can look at it. He did get codes. He replaced the ignition coil, put on a new fuel filter, and replaced a couple of modules. It would still not start. We towed it to a service station that we have used for years.
They replaced the camshaft sensor (and fixed the AC). I drove it for 8 days, no problems. Then on the morning of the 9th day, it would not start!! Exact same symptoms. So towed it again back to the service station. Then they said it was the PCM (control module). Husband went to junk yard to get one (much cheaper). Service shop put it in and then said that was not the problem and replaced the crankshaft sensor instead. Say it was ready to pick up. I went and paid again! Got key and came back later with husband to pick it up. IT would not start!!!
View 12 Replies
Advertisement
So I went to a local VW in Milwaukee in March and they saw I was eligible for the Ignition Coil Recall. So they replaced that and the first time I started the car after they did that my car wouldn't start. This was the first time I experienced the problem. I told them and they tried and it started right away. However, for the past four months I've experienced this problem where when I try to start the car it takes awhile to get it started. It doesn't click it just keeps making that loud noise of trying to turn over. I went back to the VW twice and they said the ignition coil is not related to this and they wont do anything for me. My check engine lights been on all along too and they say I need a temperature sensor replaced. They don't even know if this will fix my not starting problem. After spending a little time trying to start my car it eventually starts every time. Checked battery- its fine. Not sure what to do here.
View 2 Replies
My wife's 2011 Volkswagen Jetta (2.0 I believe) is misfiring again. We took it to the dealership about 6 months ago and they said that the ignition coil had gone bad. They replace the ignition coil and said that the plugs needed changing as well. I went to Auto Zone and got some decent plugs and changed them myself at home without much problem. It seemed to work with the problem (although it didn't seem to completely fix it) for a while, but it just recently went back to misfiring. The current symptom is that it seems to misfire when the car is warming up, but misfires less when the car is warm.
The dealership says that the plugs that we got were not recommended by the dealer (they recommended Bosch) and that they need to be replaced. I think this is BS and it is not going to fix the problem.
View 7 Replies
My car doesn't start right now and a shop diagnosed it as an ecu, but I'm starting to think that is not the case. The tach doesn't move when I try to start it and pushing the gas doesn't change it, so I'm thinking it is the crankshaft position sensor. Unfortunately, down at school, I don't have access to a jack, so I was wondering if there is any way to get to the cpa without a jack? I'd rather not have it towed to another shop.
Also, my coil pack has a huge crack in it. Could that be causing my problem? And my sai has some really frayed wires and I'd rather not replace it if I don't have to because these repairs are really adding up, but could that be causing problems too? it's not causing gas mileage issues and I live in an emissions-free county, so simply not allowing me to pass emissions isn't a problem.
View 5 Replies
My car has ~102,000 miles, though I replaced the motor at 95,000.
Yesterday, I experienced these symptoms: My car just stalled in the parking lot going from R to D. Took me several tries to even get it to crank, double checking transmission in park, foot on brake, etc.
Then I had to crank on it a bunch of times to get it to light.
The BT-1 I have on me says I have a P0321 medium generic code. Googling that seems like it's related to a crank position sensor.
Runs OK for now, but I'd like to locate that sensor (is it G28?) to make sure the wires look OK. Happened again the next time I ran it, so taking it off the road for now as unreliable.
Is this the G28 crankshaft sensor location? I figure it's the plug hiding behind the angle bracket to the right of the oil filter in this photo.
I'm trying to figure out if this is within my abilities, or if I should farm it out. As I think about it, I'm guessing the sensor and related harness are not "new" with my motor, they transferred over from the old one.
Still looking for input if I have the right location for the sensor and any input on DIY.
View 16 Replies
I have a 2001 Chevy Silverado 4.3L that I recently put a new engine in. The new engine will turn over but will not start. I am not getting any spark for some reason. The OBD2 code that keeps coming up says that the crankshaft position sensor is out of circuit. I have put in a new CKP sensor and new electrical connector, new spark plugs and wires, new distributor rotor and new ignition coil and still get the same OBD2 code and it won't start.
View 2 Replies
Sunday my truck began to sputter at idol while at a light and continued when parked. My first assumption was another coil pack has gone out. Went to autoparts store to get a new one and run the codes to tell me which cylinder it was. Code P0357 came up referring to cylinder G which seemed odd to me as it usually gives me a number rather than a letter. Bought the coil pack and went home to swap it out. Replaced the coil and with no change in the idol I googled the code. I have now replaced the coil, inspected the plug and wires around the plug and now I am at a loss of what to do next.
There is only a rough idol, no hesitation when driving or accelerating. Along with that, I've notice that if I'm going between 30-50 and take my foot off the gas it doesn't slow down, it's as though the cruise control is on... After a few miles on the highway and come to a stop, the RPMs are around 1k for about 30 seconds then drops to almost stall before catching itself and begins to sputter.
View 8 Replies
1999 Ford F-150 4WD
5.4L Triton V8
114k miles
So my check engine light came on a few days ago and I went down to Autozone to check it out with the code reader. The result was "Cylinder 4 Misfire" (the guy said that was as far as the diagnosis would go...) and since I just replaced the spark plugs under 1,000 miles ago, I figured it must be the ignition coil (I replaced coils 1, 7 and 8 about 100 miles ago too).
When I removed the coil, the outside was fully covered in rust, the spring had a tiny bit of rust, and it smelled a little like gasoline. After replacing the coil, the check engine light went off, however the engine still runs rough and doesn't sound much different than before.
What the issue might be? Would a compression test or a better code reader diagnosis give me more insight? I live in Louisiana where we get a decent amount of rain and humidity, so I'm worried there might be a moisture issue down around the spark plug. Also, the exhaust seems hotter than normal and the engine gets pretty hot in a short amount of time.
View 1 Replies
I was replacing my spark plugs and one screw holding the ignition coil stripped while another snapped. I have change 3 plugs (the easy one) and could have more problems. I spent half a day trying to drill the screws out to no avail and also noticed the intake manifold is plastic. I was thinking of swapping it out. This would alleviate the broken screw problem and make pulling the plugs easier. It also looks like it's just 8 bolts. Would swapping a new intake manifold in add any performance gains? Is there a manifold others recommend?
View 9 Replies
I have a 1995, 1500, 350eng, PU. there seems to be an electrical problem in the ignition system. when the key is turned on the check engine and other lights do not come on and there is no power to the coil/ignition. When the lights do come on the truck starts. I have replaced module, dist,pickup coil, coil, cap and rotor. Could the problem be in the computer?
View 1 Replies
I have a Chrysler 300m 2004, 3.5. I have done a replacement of the timing belt at 100 000 mark with a chrysler dealer.
It has been misfiring for a while since. I brought it to a dealer who told me that the camshaft crankshaft and oxygen sensors need to be changed. So I did. (camshaft and crankshaft were changed with the dealer. Oxygen sensor was changed with independent with generic not factory sensor because the dealer did not have it.)
It did not solve the problem. Now the car is shaking and sometimes cannot accelerate. I even change spark plugs and battery. I brought it to an independent, the mechanic told me that there is 3.8 degrees difference between cam and crankshaft sensors. They are out of sync and suggest that I should bring back to the dealer who replaced the timing belt.
When I brought the car to the dealer, they told me that chrysler 300m 2004 tolerates up to 12 degrees difference so the cam and crankshaft are not out of sync. Nothing to do with the timing belt that they installed. I called the independent mechanic but he told me that in general it's 1 to 1.6 degree.
View 19 Replies
Ok, here it goes. I was changing the timing belt on a 2005 PT Cruiser. Everything went good until I tried re-installing the harmonic balancer. No one in town carried the tool to reinstall the thing, so I ordered a tool from Amazon. I was installing the balancer, had a box end wrench just holding the bolt that screwed into the crankshaft and an adjustable wrench turning the bearing nut to push the pulley back on. I got the pulley down where the balancer and crankshaft started turning, so I held the box end wrench steady as I snugged the bearing to make sure it had bottomed out when the bolt broke down in the crankshaft.
Now, this bolt had threads at the top to turn the bearing, a shaft, and then about half inch but no more than 3/4 inch of thread at the bottom to thread into the crank and a long shoulder in between. The bolt broke at the bottom where the threaded part started. And, to make things worse, it turns out the bolt is made of pewter and is about 3-4 inches in the crank. I tried to feel for threads with the crank bolt itself, and t appears to be where the crank threads start. There appears to be abut 1/2 - 3/4 of an inch of space on the other end of the broken bolt. I have considered drilling the center out progressively bigger until I could get something in there to back the bolt out, and I am not sure I could get a bolt extractor down in the hole and then turn the thing to back it out.
View 19 Replies
1994 F150 4X 201,000mi ... Replaced clockspring, now have chime alert with door open and key NOT in ignition. Chime shuts off when the door is closed.
View 7 Replies
i just got an F150 supercrew 5.4L 4x4. has approximately 180k miles but motor and tranny run clean and smooth. issue i am having is the OD light flashes but no other service light is on. i had code read and said it was a Differential Feedback Pressure Sensor (DFPS). Replaced the sensor and hoses but still the light is flashing. i have not changed EGR as of yet due to money but was wondering if i could maybe get pointed in the right direction. the Tranny does not seem to be operating improperly except at low speeds it tends to shift between OD and 3rd on occasion.
View 1 Replies
My son has a 2002 Explorer 4WD EB that needed new valve and intake manifold gaskets. I pulled it apart this weekend (battery disconnected) and replaced (don't get me started on the passenger valve cover with that *@&$^ EGR valve in the way). He's also had issues with the key being removable from the ignition when the vehicle is still running (worn key and/or cylinder most likely). So when I put his key in to test my gasket job, it won't go in all the way. After much trial and effort, I call a mobile locksmith who has to drill out the old cylinder and rekey/replace it (keyed to use the same, single old key we have).
Now, the cylinder turns happily with the old key. In the "Run" position, all the dash lights come on as they should, but turning then to "Start", caused a loud single click, then the dash goes out, and the engine never even tries to start. Then, nothing electrical in the car works unless I disconnect the battery for about 10 mins, then reconnect. Upon trying to start, the same thing happens (good dash lights at "Run", then single loud click from the engine compartment, then nothing. It seems maybe the PAT has lost its memory of the old key?
I watched and assisted the locksmith put the cylinder and PATS antenna back together, so I know connections/placement of that is good. At this point, I'm about to lose all the money I saved on the gasket job to the freakin' ignition issue.
View 9 Replies
I have replaced the transmission Range sensor (with OEM) and it is adjusted correctly, however This did not clear the. Code P0705... I am stuck ....
View 1 Replies
I tried the test mode (hold trip reset and turn ignition to run) this revealed that the needle for the speedometer does sweep from zero to max and back, could it still be the cluster? Is there something I am missing? FWIW the odometer lights up but does not work and all other gauges seem to be functioning correctly.
View 10 Replies
Monday get CEL with codes p0722 and p0322. Car is in limp mode during these codes. Yesterday I change g68 sensor. Cleared codes, rough start but was sitting most of the week. Drove around fine, no limp mode, shifted fine. Started up a few times immediately after. Hours go by I go to leave and it won't turn over though it sounds its wants to. No clue why this is happening or what changing the sensor could have done. This is a 01 GLS 2.0 auto. Not sure where to from here especially since it drove so well afterwards.
View 4 Replies
I replaced the fuel pressure sensor in my freestar...I drove it around for a minute then noticed a strong smell of gas. I stopped and then put the old sensor back in and now it won't start.
View 6 Replies
2000 jetta vr6 manual 150k miles, i have trouble starting the engine so I thought i'd start by replacing the crankshaft sensor. I notice that its wet with oil when i pull it out, and wasn't sure if tits supposed to be dry. I may have a bad ECU in the end...
View 1 Replies
My Crankshaft sensor has broken off in the hole for it and will not come out. Does the whole brass looking piece come out to be flush with the black or just the dome looking piece inside the brass. This crankshaft sensor is located at the 7 o'clock position behind the flywheel. What is the best way to remove it? 1999GMC Suburban c1500.....
View 19 Replies
