Chrysler - Lhs :: 1995 - Violent Shaking In The Front End
Oct 10, 2012
1995 Chrysler LHS
I have a shake in the front end. It is similar to driving on a rocky surface and it shakes the whole vehicle. It occurs between 40 and 55 MPH and when I'm climbing a hill. At other speeds it is fine. If I let off the gas then it is fine as it coasts, even at those defined speeds.
I've replaced the struts and the wheel bearings and an outer tie rod. I had the front end aligned and balanced the two front tires.
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My car begins to shake violently and hum loudly at anything over 70mph. It used to be 80mph but it has slowly gotten worse. I have checked the motor mounts and none appear to be cracked or broken. I have also had tires balanced and replaced, rims replaced, and the problem continues to persist. I was curious if the right axle could be warped? or this issue may be caused by damage wheel bearings. At any rate it has gotten unbearable decided to finally extinguish the problem.
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2007 Ford F150
XLT 5.4L Supercab
55,500 miles
Only Owner
I have owned my truck since mile 1 and have not had any issues up to this point. That being said in 2011 there have been 5 occassions where I have been on interstate driving between 55-70 and had to pull over due to my truck shaking. This shaking is very extreme and truly scares me, thus the reason I pull over. I replaced my tires with Michelin 70,000 mile tires and also replace my front brakes just over a year ago.
After not being able to reproduce the shake for my mechanic, they said my upper front ball joint needed replaced and my rear shocks. They hooked the truck up to the computer and did not receive any codes and my check engine light has not come on to this point.
The research I have conducted to this point has pointed to a number of issues and I had my mechanic check all of them and they said nothing was out of the ordinary, these were: e-brake issues, front brakes, calipers, plugs/coils.
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Very loud very violent thump while driving at all speeds. Becomes more often and not as loud while accelerating. Decelerating becomes loud and violent again. Tranny fluid is fine and doesn't smell burnt. I haven't owned the vehicle very long but my family enjoys it.
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I have a 2008 Ford Focus with 122k miles in good condition, nothing ever replaced except an engine mount, shocks, and coolant thermostat and all regular maintenance.
In the last four months I have had a few instances of the car shaking during my commute. Only happens when I am either stopped at an exit ramp or stopped during heavy traffic on the highway. It can happen anywhere from 10-30 minutes into my commute. Feels like either the road is shaking from an earthquake or godzilla is standing behind it and pushing it back and forth. It's very strong but very smooth and slow. Like being on a boat. There is no vibration in the steering wheel or any other parts and no noise associated with it. It goes away once I start driving again.
I had a cracked engine mount once that produced a lot of vibration and rattling, and this shaking doesn't feel or sound anything remotely like that one, so I am doubtful that it has the do with the mounts (just had that one replaced a couple months ago anyway).
This is also extremely intermittent. Maybe once a month at most, although the time span in between occurrences seems to be shorter so that's why I am investigating. And when it happens, it's just once during my entire drive and then not again for another few weeks or so. So it would be hard to take it into a mechanic to reproduce.
What could this be? I've been thinking about getting a new car and this has me worried that I'm entering into the timeframe with this one where major things start breaking.
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I've had this truck since 2011. Ran great when I got it. Ive had problems with the calipers and I've replaced both the fronts. I keep up on changing the oil regularly. The manifolds started rusting away a little over a year ago. Not happening... The shaking started recently after I pulled a trailer with 2.5 tons of shingles on 2 separate occasions.
That being said, I can feel a little shaking while idling. It was really only bad between 500 and 2000rpms. After 2000 it almost felt like a turbo and it would accelerate really fast and smooth until the gears switched. I figured i should change the oil. Now the shaking is more violent.
Its a 2000 f150 5.4 v8....
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Whenever I am driving my Subaru Impreza, the steering wheel shakes above 60mph and is a violent shake at 65mph making it unbearably frustrating to drive to school each day. Recently I had slipped on ice and hit a curb with the tires on the right side of the car. I took it to a shop to get the rims looked at, and ended up replacing the back right. The mechanic said nothing about the front one however. My question to you is; could it be that the front rim is also bent? Or that it could just be a buildup of ice. It is cold here, snows often and is never above 20F.
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I have a 98 Ford Explorer Sport V6 with a 5-speed and 4wd (mechanically Identical to the Ranger) and I've been having a problem ever since the new clutch was put in.
The previous clutch cracked in some way and took the pressure plates with it, so it has an all new clutch and plates, installed by a friend who has a shop. Ever since getting the new hardware, I get a violent vibration when letting out the clutch in First or Reverse from a stop. Friend says it's probably the flywheel, and that fixing it is more trouble than it's worth-- just live with it. If I rev the throttle a bit while letting off the clutch, it engages much more smoothly, but if I do this at idle it shakes violently.
The one weird thing is that it doesn't do this when the engine is cold. For the first ten minutes of driving, the clutch engages smoothly like any other car, but as the engine comes up to temp the shaking returns. This doesn't sound like the flywheel to me.
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I purchased a 2011 ford f250 6.7 diesel today from a dealer in indiana. During test drive i noticed a shudder when i was doing over 60 and i immediately brought truck back and told seller about it.so he gets in and we drive it got it over 60 i hit brakes.it shuddered again but not as bad.long story short seller said it was prob a shock or strut or ball joint.
So I bought the truck anyhow and during the 600 mile drive back home and only when i was in top gear the truck would shudder when i hit a large bump.i would then slow way down to under 40mph and it would go back to driving normal.it did this a couple times but i noticed if i kept it under 60 it didnt seem to happen when i hit bumps.
So I get all the way home and check engine light comes on and i mean literally as soon as i got home from 600 mile drive. I plugged in my engine diagnostic tool and it shows a P0284 code. Are these things related? I called the dealer back and he says the truck is as is but he will look into it. I don't want to do further damage driving.
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I have recently been having violent shaking when I make a turn to pull into a parking spot or turn at a stop sign. I can park my truck and the truck continues to shake until I turn the motor off. When I restart the truck it runs fine. It doesn't do this all the time just sometimes. I have a 2006 Ford F-150 lariat 2 wheel drive.
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I have a 2002 F250 with the 5.4 triton engine. Automatic transmission. When I reach 35 mph (sometimes sooner) the truck will shake horribly when I reach lower rpms. It will do this up to 65 mph and then it mostly stops. Completely taking my foot off the gas will stop the shaking, as well as shifting into neutral.
I know for sure that the truck has a cylinder 3 misfire as well as a minor exhaust leak, could either of these be causing it? Don't have the money to fix either of the problems for another couple weeks, is it safe to drive until then or should I play it safe?
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My 2003 Chrysler is making a strange "whirring" noise. It is shaking a bit and there is occasionally a knocking noise near the rear driver's side tire. What the problem could be?
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I have a Chrysler 300m 2004, 3.5. I have done a replacement of the timing belt at 100 000 mark with a chrysler dealer.
It has been misfiring for a while since. I brought it to a dealer who told me that the camshaft crankshaft and oxygen sensors need to be changed. So I did. (camshaft and crankshaft were changed with the dealer. Oxygen sensor was changed with independent with generic not factory sensor because the dealer did not have it.)
It did not solve the problem. Now the car is shaking and sometimes cannot accelerate. I even change spark plugs and battery. I brought it to an independent, the mechanic told me that there is 3.8 degrees difference between cam and crankshaft sensors. They are out of sync and suggest that I should bring back to the dealer who replaced the timing belt.
When I brought the car to the dealer, they told me that chrysler 300m 2004 tolerates up to 12 degrees difference so the cam and crankshaft are not out of sync. Nothing to do with the timing belt that they installed. I called the independent mechanic but he told me that in general it's 1 to 1.6 degree.
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My wife has a 95 chrysler town and country. We got it used. Six months and after we got the transmission started slipping around 30 or 35 mph. It was like the van would just go into neutral, take your foot off the gas and it would work properly when the gas was reapplied. I took it to two tranny shops. Both said there was nothing to do but wait for it to die. Four years and 25000 miles later it is still running. while the slipping problems seems to have stopped, it developed a new quirk. Every 4 or 5 months when entering a freeway, it will not shift into overdrive. Hence 5000 rpm at 55 mph. I'll exit the freeway. Get to a safe spot. Turn the car off and restart, the problem will be gone and if i drive on the freeway it will shift normally. It has a few other issues ac, struts etc. If the tranny is going out why fix these things? On the other hand if there is still life in it, maintaining is cheaper than replacing..
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My 2003 Chrysler is making a strange "whirring" noise. It is shaking a bit and there is occasionally a knocking noise near the rear driver's side tire. What the problem could be?
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I recently started hearing a rhythmic squeaking noise upon decelerating. It doesn't sound as though it's coming from under the hood (such as a belt noise): it sounds like it's coming from the back right wheel area. The noise isn't very loud: it's almost impossible to hear with the radio on. It isn't constant: it gets slower and slower as I continue to decelerate. If it matters, the car is a 1995 Chrysler Concorde. I don't think it's the brakes.
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I have a 95 chrysler lebaron that stops accelerating while driving. I have had the fuel pump replaced twice in the last year and now it is acting up again! It jumps and then gives up. I have not noticed any other signs that happen.
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My 95 Concorde, when I am at a stop, will sometimes hiccup/sputter while idling. It will also sometimes do it when I push on the accelerator when speeding up from say 35mph zone up to 55 – it will do it a few times and then smooth out. But, when I a get to a stop light, it’ will hiccup/sputter a few times – a couple of times it seemed real bad and the car seemed to shake.
When it does this I don’t notice any movement in the RPM needle and seems to idle normally; It’s never died and starts just fine.
The muffler needs fixed – has a hole or something. I was thinking of getting an oil change, replace the air and fuel filter, first.
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All of a sudden, the brakes (rear) are making a rubbing sound. Could it somehow be caused by dust? The car is parked on the street and it's been VERY dry here lately. When I used the car a few days ago, they sounded fine. Reason to bring it to our mechanic or not? It's a 1995 Chrysler Concorde.
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Every now and then, when I start my car, the speedometer needle pegs completely to the right and then settles down and acts normally. Why does this happen and what does it indicate? The car is a 1995 Chrysler Concorde.
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We have a 1995 Chrysler Concorde. It drives fine, but recently I have been hearing a clunking noise (two or three clunks) somewhere in the rear of the car AFTER I turn the car off. It does not clunk while driving or braking or slowing down: only right after the ignition is turned off.
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