Chrysler - Lebaron :: Long Crank And Hard To Start Seems Like No Gas
Mar 21, 2013
I own a really nice original ' 89 Chrysler Lebaron coupe with the 2.5 N/A, throttle body injection and 3 speed automatic. It has just over 100k miles. The car sits in the garage all the time and is not used during the winter months and is never used in the salt season. I do "try" to start it sometimes just to keep the battery up. The problem is when I want to start it, especially after sitting for a while, often it will crank and crank but won't start. It's acting like it has no gas. When I take the aircleaner lid off and dump a little gas in, it fires up just fine then runs perfect after that. Even after it has been used as a daily car after that, when I shut it off, sometimes it will start just fine, other times it won't, then I have to use the gas can again. It has a mind of it's own. When you think it will restart, sometimes it won't. I've been keeping a little gas can in the trunk in case it does happen at odd times. With the gas can, it will always restart. I've talked to a few shops about this, they have no idea what might do this. Naturally, when I brought it in to show it to them, it would ALWAYS restart for them. Getting rid of this car is not an option for me, I love the car, except for that part of it.
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1993 lebaron GTC... I just got the oil change, and the tec slip and the wrench touch the starter, positive and negative ends. I have power every where but no crank to start. I had a new backup starter and replace it figure that it was shot but after getting it tested its fine. I can hear the starter but i get no crank. Where do i look?
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Car does not have to get wet, just be in humid air. Problem going on 2 years now, mechanics tried disconnecting a (?) ground/sensor from computer, major tune up, new fuel pump. Until recently, it just took keeping it in crank position for a long time for it to finally start. Recently, in crank position for 30 seconds does nothing and has me worried I'm doing damage. In dry weather, it starts first time every time.
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I have a 1996 Chrysler LeBaron and when it idles it overheats so I did my research and I figured it could be the water pump I replace the water pump and during that process I had to disconnect the timing belt then put the water pump on and reinstall the timing belt when I put everything back together I thought I was done but it didn't start and I'm wondering if it's because the timing is off. I did not reset the timing nor move the camshaft how can I tell what's going on.
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I have 1988 Chrysler Lebaron. It dies after I first start it and now it is doing it any old time. If I tromp on the gas it sputters and keeps going. It is really bad at stop lights, stop signs or slowing down for corners. Also the ac is not cooling. The blower is fine, but no cool air coming from vents.
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92 lebarron conv. 4 cyld. non turbo
New cap, rotor, and plugs
Misses on 3 and 4.
When pull plug wires engine doesn't change. When pull 1 or 2 it dies. When put in gear it chugs and dies.
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Thought this would be a fairly straight forward fix of making sure that the transmission fluid was full with no air in it, as well as a few other things to try.
Well, I've run out of things I can reliably try right now. Replaced the output sensor on the transmission, filled the transmission fluid with the proper type, read error outputs. (boy was that odd, you have to turn the key three times in a certain way and it blinks codes out at you)
The error readouts point to an Oxygen sensor, and the speed sensor. The oxygen sensor I could care less about at the moment, as I can't really reliably drive the car in first gear. Once it shifts, then I'll fix that, otherwise its wasted money as I won't be driving anyways.
None of my local mechanics have a machine to read or program this thing by the way, so that is kind of out of the question.
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I have a 95 chrysler lebaron that stops accelerating while driving. I have had the fuel pump replaced twice in the last year and now it is acting up again! It jumps and then gives up. I have not noticed any other signs that happen.
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I wanted to no why my car has water on the spark plugs not a lot though couple drips on the threads and on the part u gap(numbers 3 and 5 both are side by side), the oil looks like a light chocolate shack, it also spills a lot of water out the exhaust pipe. sort of like its being sprayed out non stop. i haven't did a compression test but all plugs are removed I am thinking its a head gasket. And the rest of the spark plugs look good just numbers 3 and 5 were wet.
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My son has a 1985 lebaron and the brakes just suddenly stopped working. He has replaced the pads, rotors, calipers and bled the system but when you push the brake pedal it goes to the floor. the mechanic where is works is stumped - been like this for three days and they can't figure out what the problem is.
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I have an ' 89 Chrysler Lebaron coupe in very good condition. The car has an overhead console which is digital. It shows the compass and outside temperature. The compass works fine, but the outside temperature is always way off, normally about 30-40 degrees higher than it should be. I was told that the "thermometer" for that is located somewhere behind the grille. I am unable to locate it and am unaware of what it looks like. Auto part stores in my area don't seem to have a listing for this part. Most of these cars were convertibles, so only the higher end coupes had this option, I'm told.
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I had a remanufactured 2.5 Liter engine installed in my '88 Chrysler LeBaron Convertible. The engine vibrates and starts and dies in the AM until it warms up. I also had the engine and transmission mounts replaced; it made the vibration worse, I can really feel it in the steering wheel.The two balance shafts have not been checked, in addition to that, what else should I check for to resolve this problem?
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I have a 1993 Chrysler Lebaron and the power steering on it just stopped working today. It was low on power steering fluid and I replaced the fluid but it still doesn't work. I can't find anything related on the Internet.
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Have a 2002 Chrysler 300m with a 3.5 v6eng. Problem is It takes 5 to 10 secs to start my car in the morning, It doesn't start like should, It doesn't show up on the computer. I think they call this long cranking. Had plugs put in at 50,000 miles because of a bad plug, coil is fine and fuel pump is also. Once car starts it smells like gas fumes in the air. At loss as to what the problem is. I don't want to do a lot of lets try this and try that, as this could cost me a lot of money .I have talked to the mechanic and there not sure, along with a dealership. They see dollar signs.
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Chrysler 1998 Lebaron. The door locks will run constantly, they go up and down when driving and when parked, the same with the lights...now finding that in the middle of the night the car alarm is going off for no reason...also finding that the dome light will not shut off
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I have a 1994 Chrysler Lebaron. The issue I've been having is for the last two weeks, my oil pressure gauge starts very high(out of normal range), and stays there for a very long time. Whilst it's at the highest possible level, the engine starts to heat up, until the gauge goes into range. This all happens without the car moving. If I leave the car on for 30 minutes(without moving it) the gauge goes into normal range, and for the most part operates normally. I have disconnected the Compressor's belt, in order to be able to turn on the engine fan from inside the car. As long as I keep the fan on, the engine stays cool for the most part.
I have considered that it was sludge, as it would soften as the engine heats up, but I have done an engine flush(machine), and the issue continues.
So far every mechanic I take it too, acts like it's impossible for the oil pump to have any issues, and claims it's normal behavior, which it's not.
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I have about 3400 miles on my Sonata 2.0T, and I have experienced a long crank with (puttering in between), and does not start, twice occurrence thus far. I have no warning lights, no lamps (SES) that stay on afterward, nothing at all. I have had to press the "start/stop" button again to make it stop, then let it sit for a few seconds press the button again, re-cranks, and starts this time. I know that if take to the dealer they will not find anything wrong since most concerns they have to duplicate in order to diagnose. The SES light is not on, so I know we have no fault codes to go by. Sounds as if the fuel pump is crapping out, or no spark is being generated.
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My grandma has a '07 XLE 4cyl with around 65K on it.
Every once and awhile, completely intermittent, no consistency whatsoever it takes 4 seconds or so to get the car to actually start. Normally 1-2 seconds.
Was going to change plugs. See that you have to replace the whole pump/strainer assy. in the tank, no stand-alone filter.
No DTC's or any other lights on. Wondering about replacing the whole pump/strainer assy. will fix it or what the deal is. Can't order it online at Advance Auto parts, and called their store and the Denso one they show isn't even listed as available at the factory. Hope you don't need an OEM one, sure that's not cheap.
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So my 2002 ford explorer with the 4.0 L V6, has been cranking along time before it starts. I thought i had this figured out already, i put a brand new fuel pump in it from the ford dealer. That seemed to work, but the problem came back.
Especially when it is cold, it cranks a lot longer than normal to start. and when it does start RMPS go way up briefly and come back down. Seems to only act up when its cold out, say 35 degrees and lower.
So the remote start wont work because it only cranks for a few seconds and then stops. it tries this three times and it gives up. i go out there to start it and cranks for 10 seconds it seems like, sometimes i have to feather the fuel pedal.
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2008 Chrysler Sebring V6 hardtop convertible ... Intermittent no crank / no start condition – when turning key to start position, either you get nothing as if there is no battery connected and or a slight click as if the solenoid was trying to engage. The pattern can be nothing, nothing, nothing, click, click, nothing, startup or any combination of clicks or nothing, always resulting with a startup. Sometimes it will only be 3-4 attempts, other times 15-20. This occurs anywhere from every 15-20 starts to driving 2,000 miles from NH to FL without one failure.Completely random occurrence – no pattern can be seen – has been ongoing since September 2015 to now March 2016.
I have tried moving the shift lever and the steering wheel while it occurs, no change.Facts – battery was replaced 2-3 years agoAfter the first occurrence I yanked the battery, cleaned the terminals as well as the terminals under the hood. Over the next couple of months brought it to the dealer who could find no codes and of course it did not fail while they had it so they did nothing. In December I appealed to the service manager to replace the starter as I thought is sounded like a bad spot on the armature. He did so and also had the WIN module replaced. No issues until I was in FL weeks later. Here the dealer has replaced the PTC and TIPM modules and installed a redundant ground wire. The problem is still occurring. I’m down to under 400 miles on my 100k bumper to bumper warranty?
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1990 Volvo 760 4 cyl. Turbo. Drove the car to work, everything fine. Got off work, car wouldn't start. Cranked but wouldn't start. It was getting spark. Changed the fuel filter, it ran perfect for a month. Drove it to town a month later, shut it off, then trying to start it, would crank and crank eventually start but run real rough. We got it home....barely.
Replaced the fuel filter again. Still wouldn't run right.
Replaced the fuel pressure regulator. Same problem.
Replaced the throttle positioning switch. Same problem. Replaced the air control valve. same problem.
Found out that this car has an on board diagnostic doo hickey.
Found out how to check each sensor and component individually.
All sensors and components are working. Checked both fuel pumps and they are working. If I unplug the air flow sensor and the air control valve sensor, I can start the car using starter fluid and it will idle all day with out missing a lick.If I plug in either one of the sensors, it will kill it immediately.I don’t know what else to do to make this machine run.
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