I have a 95 chrysler lebaron that stops accelerating while driving. I have had the fuel pump replaced twice in the last year and now it is acting up again! It jumps and then gives up. I have not noticed any other signs that happen.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1996 Chrysler LeBaron and when it idles it overheats so I did my research and I figured it could be the water pump I replace the water pump and during that process I had to disconnect the timing belt then put the water pump on and reinstall the timing belt when I put everything back together I thought I was done but it didn't start and I'm wondering if it's because the timing is off. I did not reset the timing nor move the camshaft how can I tell what's going on.
View 1 RepliesI have 1988 Chrysler Lebaron. It dies after I first start it and now it is doing it any old time. If I tromp on the gas it sputters and keeps going. It is really bad at stop lights, stop signs or slowing down for corners. Also the ac is not cooling. The blower is fine, but no cool air coming from vents.
View 3 Replies1993 lebaron GTC... I just got the oil change, and the tec slip and the wrench touch the starter, positive and negative ends. I have power every where but no crank to start. I had a new backup starter and replace it figure that it was shot but after getting it tested its fine. I can hear the starter but i get no crank. Where do i look?
View 9 Replies92 lebarron conv. 4 cyld. non turbo
New cap, rotor, and plugs
Misses on 3 and 4.
When pull plug wires engine doesn't change. When pull 1 or 2 it dies. When put in gear it chugs and dies.
Thought this would be a fairly straight forward fix of making sure that the transmission fluid was full with no air in it, as well as a few other things to try.
Well, I've run out of things I can reliably try right now. Replaced the output sensor on the transmission, filled the transmission fluid with the proper type, read error outputs. (boy was that odd, you have to turn the key three times in a certain way and it blinks codes out at you)
The error readouts point to an Oxygen sensor, and the speed sensor. The oxygen sensor I could care less about at the moment, as I can't really reliably drive the car in first gear. Once it shifts, then I'll fix that, otherwise its wasted money as I won't be driving anyways.
None of my local mechanics have a machine to read or program this thing by the way, so that is kind of out of the question.
I own a really nice original ' 89 Chrysler Lebaron coupe with the 2.5 N/A, throttle body injection and 3 speed automatic. It has just over 100k miles. The car sits in the garage all the time and is not used during the winter months and is never used in the salt season. I do "try" to start it sometimes just to keep the battery up. The problem is when I want to start it, especially after sitting for a while, often it will crank and crank but won't start. It's acting like it has no gas. When I take the aircleaner lid off and dump a little gas in, it fires up just fine then runs perfect after that. Even after it has been used as a daily car after that, when I shut it off, sometimes it will start just fine, other times it won't, then I have to use the gas can again. It has a mind of it's own. When you think it will restart, sometimes it won't. I've been keeping a little gas can in the trunk in case it does happen at odd times. With the gas can, it will always restart. I've talked to a few shops about this, they have no idea what might do this. Naturally, when I brought it in to show it to them, it would ALWAYS restart for them. Getting rid of this car is not an option for me, I love the car, except for that part of it.
View 10 RepliesI wanted to no why my car has water on the spark plugs not a lot though couple drips on the threads and on the part u gap(numbers 3 and 5 both are side by side), the oil looks like a light chocolate shack, it also spills a lot of water out the exhaust pipe. sort of like its being sprayed out non stop. i haven't did a compression test but all plugs are removed I am thinking its a head gasket. And the rest of the spark plugs look good just numbers 3 and 5 were wet.
View 19 RepliesMy son has a 1985 lebaron and the brakes just suddenly stopped working. He has replaced the pads, rotors, calipers and bled the system but when you push the brake pedal it goes to the floor. the mechanic where is works is stumped - been like this for three days and they can't figure out what the problem is.
View 6 RepliesI have an ' 89 Chrysler Lebaron coupe in very good condition. The car has an overhead console which is digital. It shows the compass and outside temperature. The compass works fine, but the outside temperature is always way off, normally about 30-40 degrees higher than it should be. I was told that the "thermometer" for that is located somewhere behind the grille. I am unable to locate it and am unaware of what it looks like. Auto part stores in my area don't seem to have a listing for this part. Most of these cars were convertibles, so only the higher end coupes had this option, I'm told.
View 3 RepliesI had a remanufactured 2.5 Liter engine installed in my '88 Chrysler LeBaron Convertible. The engine vibrates and starts and dies in the AM until it warms up. I also had the engine and transmission mounts replaced; it made the vibration worse, I can really feel it in the steering wheel.The two balance shafts have not been checked, in addition to that, what else should I check for to resolve this problem?
View 7 RepliesI have a 1993 Chrysler Lebaron and the power steering on it just stopped working today. It was low on power steering fluid and I replaced the fluid but it still doesn't work. I can't find anything related on the Internet.
View 5 RepliesChrysler 1998 Lebaron. The door locks will run constantly, they go up and down when driving and when parked, the same with the lights...now finding that in the middle of the night the car alarm is going off for no reason...also finding that the dome light will not shut off
View 2 RepliesI have a 1994 Chrysler Lebaron. The issue I've been having is for the last two weeks, my oil pressure gauge starts very high(out of normal range), and stays there for a very long time. Whilst it's at the highest possible level, the engine starts to heat up, until the gauge goes into range. This all happens without the car moving. If I leave the car on for 30 minutes(without moving it) the gauge goes into normal range, and for the most part operates normally. I have disconnected the Compressor's belt, in order to be able to turn on the engine fan from inside the car. As long as I keep the fan on, the engine stays cool for the most part.
I have considered that it was sludge, as it would soften as the engine heats up, but I have done an engine flush(machine), and the issue continues.
So far every mechanic I take it too, acts like it's impossible for the oil pump to have any issues, and claims it's normal behavior, which it's not.
I have a 1995 Chevy C1500 Silverado. The blower and heater work great when I start driving. After about 20 minutes of driving on high blower speed, the strength of air blowing out reduces drastically and eventually no air is blowing out of the vents. I can still hear that the blower is blowing air, but there is no air coming out of the vent. The Midas repair shop I frequent couldn't reproduce the issue on their short test drive (of course). They told me to bring it back to them whenever the problem occurs. I haven't had the opportunity because by the time I get out of work, they are closed and I am freezing to death every morning.
View 1 RepliesI just purchased a 1995 SL1. It has 95,000 on the car. It was a tow vehicle for an older man.It has an automatic transmission. It runs great but makes this funny noise. When you put the car in drive after having it completely shut off and after starting to accelerate to about 5 mph it makes a funny click clack noise followed by a beep. It does not sound mechanical but like a relay or something. It only does it once. As long as you don't turn the car off completely it does not do it again no matter if you put it back in park. If you turn the motor off and turn the key to ACC it does not do it. No other sounds at all. Transmission shifts fine. What it might be?
View 2 RepliesI recently bought a 2009 PT Cruiser which now has 38,000 miles on it. When I sit in idle, at a stop light or anywhere else, the car begins to go through a cycle where it is at about .75 RPMS (On the dial) for about 15econds, then all of a sudden I'll feel my car shake and the RPM's fall to just below .5 and then it shakes again and kicks up to 1 RPM before settling back down to .75. This cycle repeats until I move. Also, after the first "shake" the AC on my car goes out, spitting out warm air until I begin moving again. (Not good in TEXAS heat) This happens EVERY TIME the car goes through this cycle. WHAT IN THE WORLD IS THIS!!??
View 1 RepliesI was driving back from college for Spring Break on the I-80 when all of a sudden, about 50 miles out, the car starts bucking and losing speed and within a minute stopped moving entirely. The dashboard showed no indicator lights, and oil and transmission fluid seemed fine and there were no leaks of any kind coming from under the car. A highway patrol office stopped and advised me to drive so he could see the problem first hand.
To my surprise, the car worked perfectly. At this point, I simply drove back to my college town to get the car fixed, as I didn't want to risk driving 300 miles with a problematic car. The mechanic said it was because my catalytic converter was old and clogged up and switched it out. Unfortunately, about 60 miles of driving, the exact same thing happened. This time I drove all the way home, simply letting the car rest for 30 minutes every time it didn't want to move anymore. So, what is wrong with the car?
1995 Chrysler LHS
I have a shake in the front end. It is similar to driving on a rocky surface and it shakes the whole vehicle. It occurs between 40 and 55 MPH and when I'm climbing a hill. At other speeds it is fine. If I let off the gas then it is fine as it coasts, even at those defined speeds.
I've replaced the struts and the wheel bearings and an outer tie rod. I had the front end aligned and balanced the two front tires.
My wife has a 95 chrysler town and country. We got it used. Six months and after we got the transmission started slipping around 30 or 35 mph. It was like the van would just go into neutral, take your foot off the gas and it would work properly when the gas was reapplied. I took it to two tranny shops. Both said there was nothing to do but wait for it to die. Four years and 25000 miles later it is still running. while the slipping problems seems to have stopped, it developed a new quirk. Every 4 or 5 months when entering a freeway, it will not shift into overdrive. Hence 5000 rpm at 55 mph. I'll exit the freeway. Get to a safe spot. Turn the car off and restart, the problem will be gone and if i drive on the freeway it will shift normally. It has a few other issues ac, struts etc. If the tranny is going out why fix these things? On the other hand if there is still life in it, maintaining is cheaper than replacing..
View 3 RepliesI got my R flashed about a month ago and decided to do a little run 2 days ago at my local track (BYW I am APR stage 1+) Because I thought the software removed the speed limiter of 125 MPH, I was suprised when car got to 135 and completely stopped accelerating. When I slowed down, it was like the car had no turbo. I would press on the gas and it would barely move.
Idk if it was the turbo or the software. When I stopped I turned off the car and turned it right back on and BOOM, it was back to normal. So yesterday, the same thing happened at 110 MPH and I restarted it and everything was back to normal but now the Engine Malfunction Light is on but everything is working fine.