Chrysler - Gasoline :: 1987 - Engine Stalls When Going Downhill
Feb 23, 2016
I have a 1987 ramcharger with a 318 and auto tranny. I just put a new carburetor on it. The previous owner partially deleted the lean burn system but didn't change out the carb. I put a Carter 2bbl on it. The truck will start fine and drive fine until I try to go down hill, it then stalls. It doesn't do it as much going up hill, but is still a problem then. If I keep on the accelerator it stays running. I cant figure out what the deal is and is absolutely driving me nuts.
View 2 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 2010 Chrysler 300 Signature Series. I have taken it to 3 mechanics re: this issue but no one can find anything wrong. For work I park in a 5 story parking structure. When I'm leaving and driving our of the structure, "downhill" , I coast slowly between the turns and when I lightly put my foot on the accelerator to drive around the corners/turns there is a loud "clunk" and you can feel a little "jerk" in the car. It happens everyday but the mechanics can't reproduce the sound or the jerk. What this can be? It has happened only twice when on a flat surface, again in the parking lot, when I'm slowly coasting looking for a spot and then give it a little gas to drive forward.. the "clunk" and "jerk".
View 4 Replies
Three times this winter, during or after a several day freeze, my car won't start without lots of gas peddle pumping. AAA tech said it was water in the gas and recommended HEET. I've used it with apparent success but wonder why I've never had this problem before in over 50 years of driving in the Seattle area.
View 2 Replies
My son has a 1987 Chrysler 5th Ave. The transmission (auto) does not want to shift in reverse. It does go in neutral and forward. And it drives well forward. How to fix this?
View 1 Replies
I have a "56 thunderbird with a mid-60"s ford 390 engine w/ 4 bbl holley. I just had engine completely rebuilt and everything else is new: carb, distributor, electric fuel pump, fuel tank, etc.
Problem: car stalls and dies after a few minutes of driving. Generally restarts after waiting about a half hour, but not always. I have a fuel filter with clear bowl in fuel line just ahead of carb. The bowl is usually about 2/3 full of fuel, but general appears empty when the car stalls.
After waiting a while, the bowl refills and the car restarts.
View 17 Replies
My car runs great except occasionally after I drive awhile, park and than restart to continue, it starts right up but stalls out 20-30 seconds later. I turns over but will not run. I have to let it sit for 30-45 minutes and than it starts up like a champ. I suspect fuel pump but would like an expert opinion. Garage says they can find nothing wrong and to bring it in when it happens... how do I do that.
View 1 Replies
I have an ' 87 Caravan/mini ram van with the Mitsu 2.6 4 cylinder engine. It has 180k miles. Always ran great until now. It'll start right up (the first time) on a cold morning with no problems, but runs a little rougher than usual. Before the engine is warmed up on a cold day, needs to wait a little while before starting to drive it. Recently, I've been starting it and letting it idle for about 5-10 minutes. When I start driving it, normally I don't even get out of my driveway, it stalls and won't restart. It seems like the carb might be flooded, but not sure. Could this simply need a tune up? I haven't replaced the plugs yet since I've owned it, I've had it for only a year so far. The previous owner was very meticulous about maintenance.
View 3 Replies
My 88 "Rosie" has been having problems for months. It hesitates, stalls, and sometimes backfires. This is an intermittent problem, though it is happening more often lately. I took it to local auto shop and their computer showed Rosie was throwing a misfire code as well as a lean code. I took it 3 months ago, and I took it last week, got the same codes. The lean code led me to check the fuel pressure. I did and while it should be healthy 48-55 psi, I got 48 for awhile then 15 PSI! Now I'm thinking fuel delivery. I started with the filter. Sure enough it was dirty. Weeks later, the problem persists. I replaced the fuel regulator (ok, mostly because it was cheaper than the replacing the fuel pump, which I really didn't want to have to do.) Still, no luck, so I finally caved and spent $200 and 12 hrs dropping the tank to replace the fuel pump. Guess, what? Still no dice. I'm still getting the hesitation and the misfiring. I haven't put the fuel pressure tester back on it (been busy) so I don't know if the pressure is still low or if these other things are even related. I thought my logic was infallible. Let's face it, there's a finite number of parts that control fuel pressure. I'm running out of parts to replace. Where did I go wrong? The only thing I can think of that could still do it is perhaps the fuel pump relay? I dunno. Would it work off and on or fail completely? I'd love to get some opinions on this.
View 19 Replies
so I have a 1987 2.9L Ranger that likes to stall out when its idling after reaching temperature. Ive replaced all sorts of sensors (IAC, Coolant Temp, and PCV) and so far no luck. I was trying to figure out what the relearn procedure was for the IAC or get an input on any other possible sources of error. I haven't changed TPS yet.
What the engine does is when it gets up to temp, the engine will start to loose speed, and will start to shutter. Then it'll kick back up run fine for a few seconds and drop again, it'll do this for a few minutes then completely just choke out.
View 3 Replies
I bought a 1987 Chevy Celebrity for $700.00. Initially it ran fine after just a slight hesitation when the accelerator was first pressed. With a little more gas applied it smoothed out and ran well. Yesterday I took a drive to the library. On the way the engine stalled. After a minute or so I was able to restart the engine and proceeded to the library. On the way home the engine again stalled. I was able to restart the engine but it idled roughly and stalled as soon as the accelerator was pressed even slightly. I tried varying the amount of gas applied from very little to pressing the pedal to the floor to rocking the gas pedal to no avail. So; idles roughly, stalls when gas is applied.
View 8 Replies
Hot or cold car always starts,Idles perfect , then RPM drops, Idles rough and stalls. Econometer moves to Red area.car will easily restart and drives well,it also idles well. Once engine is shut down, even for a short while, It does the same thing again. Car is used for short trips. Ambient Temperature 80 degrees. Once running car is perfect at all speeds and idles smoothly. Hero 1987 MB 560 sel ....
View 19 Replies
When I am driving my car it will drive fine however, when I slow or take my foot off of the gas pedal to stop my car will stall. I am able to put the car in nuetral and turn it back on and drive againg but when I need to stop it stalls again. What could this be?
View 2 Replies
Plymouth Grand Voyager has been randomly stalling. If I'm driving the van will auto restart if I wait long enough. If it stalls as I'm coming to a stop it usually will restart without trouble. If it stalls while I'm stopped already then sometimes it refuses to restart. Once it wouldn't restart so the cops push it to a nearby parking lot and then it started right up, as if the move shifted something. Today I had a similar experience, where it refused to start, so I let it roll and abruptly braked and then it started. This problem disappeared during the winter.
View 9 Replies
It stalls when approaching intersections, and sometimes in traffic, always can be restarted, have had battery changed, fuel system checks out. have left at the garage and they can never get it to stall, but it still does it and sometimes three or four times during the day. Have not been to dealer, am frustrated and afraid of getting in accident. What might be causing this?
View 2 Replies
I have a 1987 automatic Nissan Sentra XE- two barrel carburetor, mileage 212,880. The car has one major problem that is going to get me hit driving it in rush hour. Most mechanics will not touch the car due to being carburetor.
Let me explain: the car idles real rough at times, hesitates at stop signs and red lights, about stalls out on me when I press the gas pedal to go or when I start to make a left or right turn. However, other times the car has little to no hesitation and idles perfectly. I have not been able to come up with a good a pattern with this problem.
I have replaced, fuel pump & filter, spark plug wires, coil, distributor, ecu computer, ran sea foam through the fuel system and have replaced many vacuum hoses.
View 4 Replies
I have a 98 Sebring Convertible 2.5L V6 that stalls after 10 minutes of driving at 30mph or even at highway speeds (ouch), but it seems only if the car has been sitting parked for 5 days will the stall occur. If I drive it daily/every other day, she seems to run just fine. Somewhere in between 2 and 5 days, there is sometimes a surge at that distance, but not a complete stall. The stall has been a very specific distance that if I let the car sit for 5 days, I can essentially pull over in anticipation of the stall. When the car stalls, the dash gauges all go to 0 and lose all power steering, but headlights stay on. Otherwise, there's been no noticeable loss of power, rough idle or anything else to indicate a problem. There are no codes on the computer. The stall happens once. I can pull over and immediately restart my car and be on my way without experiencing another problem until I let the car sit for 5 days again.
View 2 Replies
My 1997 town and country van stalls when I brake or idle otherwise it drives fine what could that be?
View 2 Replies
drives nice for mile or 2, stalls. turns and turns for 10 minutes, then starts. drives great for mile or 2, stalls. wait 10 minutes, starts. repeat, repeat!!
View 1 Replies
Traveling downhill, with no throttle input. The car is regenerating power as I coast down the hill. I hear the engine turn on and rev up. I glance at the Scangauge and see RPM is at 3045 or so. MPG is still 9999 and SOC is 77.
View 13 Replies
How the synergy drive is working. Why when coming down on a long down hill (mountain pass for example) the car stays at high RPM ? That usually happens when battery is charge to its MAX of 80%.
View 19 Replies
2005 Ford Escape, 4-cylinder with ~75,000 miles. I experience engine misfire when driving on the highway after 1+ hours that only occurs when I'm going DOWNHILL. The misfire will last between 36-41 seconds and then goes back to operating fine. Doesn't occur on every downhill and doesn't occur on steep downhills during in-town driving. The diagnostics always show the error for cylinders 1 and 4. The following repairs have been made:
Replaced all 4 spark plugs and ignition coils, replaced fuel filter, fuel injectors cleaned and tested showing no concerns.
Misfires reoccur during next long drive 6 months later, compression test performed and failed. All four fuel injectors replaced and one connector replaced.
Misfires reoccurred again during next long drive 4 months later.
I am stumped as to why the problem keeps happening, why it only occurs when going downhill, and why it seems to last for a fairly consistent length of time.
View 11 Replies
