Chrysler - Cirrus :: 1997 Won't Start On Its Own Without Being Jump Started
Jul 16, 2013
I have a '97 Chrysler Cirrus that won't start on it's own without being jump started. Once jump started it runs fine, but then the next time you go to start it the battery is drained again. My highly uneducated guess is that I need to replace the alternator. Am I on the right track? I replaced the battery and the problem persisted.
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1997 6 cylinder Chrysler Cirrus 162,000 miles. My car will randomly and unpredictably go into limp mode. I suddenly find myself in second gear while my engine is revving at high speed (3000-5000 RPMs) in order to maintain velocity. The check engine light comes on immediately, but usually switches off after 2-3 days maximum, and typically less than that. If I pull over, and turn off the engine, it re-sets, allowing me to start the car, and continue my journey, shifting normally.
Additional pertinent information:
• it happens more often when the weather is warm
• it has happened while traveling down the highway at 65 mph (scary!)
• at times, the shift into second is so abrupt, it feels as though I have been rear-ended
• once, while in a traffic jam and moving at about 20 mph, I hit a pot hole and the engine started revving at 3000, with no change of gears
• a couple of times, rather than throwing me into second, it has seemed to throw me into neutral, with the familiar high revs, but absolutely no power with increased pressure on the gas pedal
• it is happening with increased frequency i.e. I have had to stop as many as six times during an 16 mile trip.
• Recurring computer codes: P0140, P0141, P0700, P0765, P1494
04/2011 replace right front cam sealFront engine mountReplace front valve cover gasket w/tube sealsFront bank spark plugs & wires (3 platinum plugs)Transmission flush
05/2011 cylinder #5 misfireReplace rear valve cover gasket & tube seals3 platinum plugs (leaky power steering pump fouled the plugs)
05/2011 recall work #C45 floor shifter ignition/park interlockPush rod trans- shifter
09/2012 transmission shift solenoid
10/2012 6 new plugs & wires Plenum gasketDistributor capEGR valve gasket
There has been other service work done during this time period, but (I think) I have included only that which may relate to the transmission. I am so frustrated, and my mechanic is stumped. He has referred me to either a transmission shop, or a Chrysler dealer. After hearing my account of the problems over the phone, the head mechanic at the dealership suggested that it’s time for me to get a new car.
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2000 Chrysler Cirrus 2.5 V6, 84,300 miles. Twice, after sitting out a day or 2 in wet weather, it was very, very difficult to start. Each time, it didn't fire at all, but then did finally start after 4 or 5 tries and ran fine.
Tried spraying water everywhere under the hood, while it was running, but got no miss or other symptom. After then sitting a day or 2 in the garage, it started and ran fine the first 2-3 miles, then started stumbling/missing and stalled at a light. It restarted and continued to stumble/miss before running fine after another 1-3 miles. Changed the distributor cap and repeated the same test, getting same result. Also checked fuel pressure--it's on the money, building specified pressure and holding as expected. No check engine light or other symptom and no relevant codes.
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My car died while driving on the highway. The mechanic said it was the distributor, but also that the fuel pump wasn't working. When he replaced the distributor, the car works, no fuel pump problem. Does the fuel pump shut off when the engine dies or is this going to be another problem down the road? 2000 Chrysler Cirrus Lxi...
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I have a 97 Chrysler Cirrus, and have been driving it for about 5 months. The other day, as I was driving, the speedometer stopped working. It did that one time before, but started back working. However, this time, it still is not working and I have no idea how fast/slow I am going. Often, my car has little glitches where you have to lock/unlock the door a certain way or it does not work right. Everybody jokes that my car has OCD! Also, once you crank the car, you have to turn the key back halfway or certain things don't work- like the clock, wipers, turn signals, etc. I don't know if this is related to the speedometer situation or not. The last time the speedometer stopped working, I had the AC on and a cassette tape in the deck; I was trying to hit the rewind button, but kind of accidentally pushed between fast-forward and rewind, and that is when the speedometer stopped working. I am not sure this is related. Do you know if my car has a sensor or a cable for the speedometer? Is this something that can be easily and inexpensively fixed?
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I have a 1997 Cirrus. The ABS light came on about 2 weeks ago -- this is after i drive about 30 yards. The brakes seem to be operation ok and when the light does come on there is no bell or chime sounds to indicate something is wrong. ALSO, the RPM gauge just started to not work. Occasionally it may operate correctly but most of the time it just sits on zero. What the fault or faults are?
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I started having problems with my '99 Cirrus last month, it would randomly stall while driving or while in idle. With no check engine light or any other tell tale signs of a problem. I'm not entirely knowledgeable about how the entirety of the car's systems function, though I new I should check my fuel system. I wasn't getting any fuel to the engine whatsoever, so I replaced the fuel filter because when I got it off and looked at it it was clear it was bad. Then I put it all back together to try and run it and it continued to stall.
Thinking it must be the fuel pump at this point I dropped the fuel tank and replaced it. It ran for about 35 miles before the same problem started happening again. So I checked all the fuses, and relays and just to be safe replaced all the relays related to the fuel pump, and fuel system and i even replaced the auto shutdown relay. The car continued to have the same problem, so I did some research and found out it could be a dirty throttle body so I cleaned it even though it wasn't that dirty, and checked my air filter for how clean it was and it was clean. The car still continues to stall in idle and while driving.
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I own a cirrus 2000 which lately have been giving me trouble. I took it to a mechanic for tune up and ended up having a lot of issues. At the moment I am having a lot of rattle or hard driving. The car shakes alot and recently I took it for a diagnostic and the result was P0303 and P0305 and vacuum leak. What causes this problem and how can I get it fixed?
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My 98 Cirrus (V6 automatic) is not starting. The battery is working fine and it lights up everything...the wipers, headlight, the turn signals etc.... But when I turn on the ignition...nothing. I hear a mild thud followed by a brief hissing sound when I turn the key from the 1 position to the 2 position (referring to a 0-1-2-ignition key positions)...like "thuh...sssssss." It seems it comes from the underside of the car. Then when I turn from the second key position to start the engine, I get no response at all. I tried putting the gear in park / N...but no difference.
The weird thing is, approx 15 min before I attempted to start the car, I had to drive the car across the parking lot. It ran fine at that time. Could it be a fried starter motor?
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I have a 97' F-150 4.6 L and I've been having some fuel gauge issues.... I filled up my tank up and I drove it 130 miles and it still said full tank... even when I had 1/2 I would start it and every time I started it it would jump up all the way to full and slowly drop down. Then randomly last night it started working... I noticed as I hit rough patches in the road and bumps it would usually fluctuate, but it would also fluctuate up... It read I have 3/4 tank last night and I go to start it today and its back up to full! I don't understand... Wouldn't a bad sending unit just stop all together?
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2006 prius. Yesterday gave a jump to a friend with a motorcycle. After I got back in the car, no electricity whatsoever. Jumped my prius using another car, started fine and drove home, no warning lights. Same thing though after turning the car off, no electricity at all, can't start it.
Eventually figured out that I had blown the 120A fuse, so replaced it and the car starts fine now. But... I get the triangle with the exclamation point, and the car with the exclamation point on the mfd. What might be causing this? Battery reads 12.5v with car off. I find it a little strange that I didn't get any warning lights when I jump started it, but do now that it starts from its own 12v battery.
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A co worker gave me an 1986 F-150 5.0 302 with 225,000 miles that he had sitting for 1 year in driveway. He never put the new alternator in that he bought. I towed it to my house and put the alt. in jumped the battery and it started but idle was horrible. turned the idle screw to get bad gas burned off.
Whenever I shut it off or it died from idle I would have to jump it. So, I put new 56-3 battery new relay and it started right up. Drove it down the road to test drive, the truck would want to fowl out whenever I stepped on gas peddle hard. I put Sea Foam and Lucas in the tank and 20.00 premium on top. but now the truck will not turn over since it was shut off unless i jump it but needs jumping all the time. thought it was the starter so, replaced that and still tick, tick, tick, tick when trying to start won't turn over. Its going to start to make me drink, what I can replace now or have checked? maybe its the Alternator he gave me with the truck?
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Have a 99 chrysler t&c. The engine seems to be in good shape an starts reliably if the battery is not dead, even at 10f below. The problem is that every once in a while the battery looses the charge for an unknown reason . The car turns over slowly and the solenoid chatters in and out. Happens several times a month; I've started carrying a spare battery with a fair amount of reserve capacity and 4 ga. cables. Even then, it is iffy as to whether the car will start. It cranks slowly and the solenoid may still drop out.
This has happened even over a short period of time such a s grocery shopping.
I researched one of those lithium battery packs that can be inserted into the cigarette lighter. My understanding is that the emergency pack has to recharge the main battery for some time. It makes sense that you don't want to run starting current through the aux. voltage outlet.
Should I be letting the spare battery recharge the main battery for a few or more minutes?
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I have a 97 Ford Explorer. I bought it in 07 and it was nice until like 2 years ago when it started to give me doubts. It never died on me,yet, but everyday when I first start it for the day, if I put it in gear right away, it will stay idle for a while and then kick into gear and just jump. I would drive but it keeps kicking off and on until it is warmed up, I guess because it goes away. Also the OD light would come on also.
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I drive a 2006 Pacifica and lately the engine has been causing me some grief. When I am in park, neutral, or in gear but stopped, the engine will sometimes rev up and my speedometer will jump accordingly sometimes as high as 30 mph. My first thought was that it might be a transmission issue, but I'm not a car mechanic so I don't know much along the lines of what to check or do. The model is an automatic 3.5L
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Drove 97 LHS home from work back at the end of June on a 100 plus day, it seemed fine, no indication of any problem. Got in it the next morning to go to work and it would not start. Cranks fine, hear fuel pump. So a few days pass before my husband can look at it. He did get codes. He replaced the ignition coil, put on a new fuel filter, and replaced a couple of modules. It would still not start. We towed it to a service station that we have used for years.
They replaced the camshaft sensor (and fixed the AC). I drove it for 8 days, no problems. Then on the morning of the 9th day, it would not start!! Exact same symptoms. So towed it again back to the service station. Then they said it was the PCM (control module). Husband went to junk yard to get one (much cheaper). Service shop put it in and then said that was not the problem and replaced the crankshaft sensor instead. Say it was ready to pick up. I went and paid again! Got key and came back later with husband to pick it up. IT would not start!!!
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I recently left my lights on on my 2001 Saturn S series. (I also recently had a car stereo installed, don't know if it's relevant). I jumpstarted the car and now I get an odd chiming at startup. When I arm the alarm the arming honk is as loud as the alarm itself. It used to be a more modest honk. Any thoughts on what might have happened during the jumpstart or how I can correct these issues?
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After years of enjoying my Prius, driving it all around California and getting about 70k miles on it, it finally went haywire today when the car didn't start. Let me explain.
When I tried turning on the car, it didn't do anything and felt resistance from the brakes. I noticed that the interior lights were dimmer than usual, so I tried pressing the Power over and over again. Unfortunately, it didn't start.
Panicked, I frantically tried to get my manual out of my trunk, only to have the lights actually fully turn on. Puzzled, I turned on the car and, sure enough, it started. But I'm an idiot and turned it off and got stuck with the same problem again.
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Why my stereo stopped working? I had to jump start my car, 2005 Passat TDI (B5) and now the stereo will not turn on. I checked the fuse on the drivers side, they were all good, say which fuse is for the stereo..
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So my truck battery has been giving me some issues due to the bad weather. So i jumped my truck today, and my odometer is stuck at 100 mph. What to do or dyi info. My heat is also not working, water pump is not leaking, and heater core is warmed up but I am not hearing the transfer from the cold to heat. could it be the blend door actuator.
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We have had 5 instances over the past 2 months where we have had to have someone jump start the van for us. Two of the times the van was not running and the seat warmers were in use for 15 minutes with the key in ACC mode, when it came time to start the van it would not start, nothing would come on, battery completely dead. Another instance we were sitting waiting for pizzas to be done so we had a movie playing on the VES system, again with the key on ACC mode, the battery seemed completely dead again. The most recent instances the lights in the van came on but when trying to start it there was a clicking sound from under the hood, but the automatic headlights and interior lights all came on (battery not dead), so I hooked up the portable battery charger/jump starter and jumped it. It started right up, but the radio reset to the defauly of 12:00......
I had it to Auto Zone.and they tested the electrical system and found noting out of the ordinary... Could it be a bad started? Bad Cells in the battery?
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