Chrysler - Airconditioning :: 2009 - Won't Idle At Stops?
Mar 11, 2011
I recently bought a 2009 PT Cruiser which now has 38,000 miles on it. When I sit in idle, at a stop light or anywhere else, the car begins to go through a cycle where it is at about .75 RPMS (On the dial) for about 15econds, then all of a sudden I'll feel my car shake and the RPM's fall to just below .5 and then it shakes again and kicks up to 1 RPM before settling back down to .75. This cycle repeats until I move. Also, after the first "shake" the AC on my car goes out, spitting out warm air until I begin moving again. (Not good in TEXAS heat) This happens EVERY TIME the car goes through this cycle. WHAT IN THE WORLD IS THIS!!??
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My AC stops working intermittently - I got a whole new compressor about 2 years ago, then it stopped working altogether about a month ago, they said they couldn't find any leak but filled it up w/ added dye. Now it blows cold for awhile on the highway, but will randomly blow warm air, and also blow warm air when I'm stopped at a light (Which is no good in Phoenix, AZ) I took it back in and they said they couldn't find a leak or anything wrong with it, that some hose was probably just freezing and then I would have to wait for it to thaw... but that doesn't explain why it never happened before... and it's not normal (clearly)... I just want a car that I don't have to roast in this summer!
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Have lost all fan speed control in both hot/A/C settings. Resistor pack checks out okay. Fan runs when voltage applied direct to it. Have +12v into r-pack. Fuse (inside) okay. The fan speed is controlled by adding resistance between Fan & ground. Thermal cutout part on R-pack okay. How do I test out the relay (in engine compartment), and could that even be the prob? Will look at dash switch next. Any schematic for this?
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A/C works fine when moving. At idle, it doesn't work. Fan is not spinning. Is it definitely a bad fan or is it a possible fuse/switch/module? How difficult it would be for a novice to replace the fan?
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Whenever it rains and I have my car in drive (idling at say an stop sign or intersection), I can hear my car chirp. If I give it gas or shift it to neutral, the chirping sound goes away. When I have the AC on, the car will chirp even in neutral, but will not chirp when I give it gas. What could be wrong? Could it be a pulley?
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My 1994 Nissan Altima is a great little car with an unknown number of miles, though my best estimate is around 150k. Every time the air conditioner compressor kicks in it drags the engine down significantly when at idle, and often causes the belt to squeal. The squeal is most notable while accelerating. My question is, since the belt is relatively new do I have a tensioner problem, a compressor problem, or something else?
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I have a 95 neon that is running a very high Idle. When you remove your foot off the break & gas it idles around 40 mph. Iv just replaced all the breaks and its melting the new ones already. I am receiving the following check Engine Codes: 12, 25, 32, 15. I have completed the following repairs:
1) replaced all vacuum lines.2) removed EGR Valve to clean, replaced all lines. No more engine code 32, however, now I am getting engine code: 12, 23, 25, 15.3) removed intake manifold to replace the PCV Valve as well as all hoses from the oil separator.4) replaced the IAC sensor5) used ohm meter to check all wiring from IAC to computer. no issues.6) replaced the TPC sensor7) used a ohm meter to check all wiring from the TPC to the computer. No issues.8) used a ohm meter to see if the air temperature sensor was working correctly. No issues9) checked wiring from Air temperature sensor to computer, no issues.
The car continues to idle extremely high to the point it is not safe to drive. By feeling the throttle body where the IAC lets in air, it feels like its comply open. I pulled the IAC out of the throttle body while it was plugged in and ground to the engine block. When you turn the car on you can see the IAC move, but it never seems to want to shut off air supply.
It appears the computer is telling it to let more air in even though its very high idle. I replaced the computer about 5 years ago. what would cause this?! Im to the point iv put in way too much time and money already. but I don't want to buy a new car when it could just be a $50 fix.
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My 2009 Toyota Venza has had this issue off an on for about a year now, but it's becoming more frequent lately. When you start the car, the AC is often not working. It will be lit up, and on full power, but there is little, if any, air coming out of the vents. And then, if you get up to speed on the highway, or hit a bump, suddenly it's working. When it works, it works well, but when it doesn't, there's nothing you can do besides wait.
The mechanic looked at it today and couldn't diagnose it because it was working when I arrived and he wasn't able to duplicate the problem. They checked the blower motor and the connection and they were both fine. He said to come back when it's not working and try not to hit a bump on the way. I'm a little frustrated. What it could be?
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I have a 95 chrysler lebaron that stops accelerating while driving. I have had the fuel pump replaced twice in the last year and now it is acting up again! It jumps and then gives up. I have not noticed any other signs that happen.
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I had this noise since purchasing car from dealer but always thought it was the injectors, Lately it has got a lot louder and I'm positive it's not my injectors. It comes and goes at idle but when I press the gas it stops for a bit.
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This is the same issue as me.
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My 2011 Hyundai Accent 1.6 runs fantastic and has since I purchased it three year's ago until two weeks ago when my domestic partners friend changed the spark plugs, oil, air filter and stuff so I could go on a short trip and back. About 200 miles into it I pulled into a rest stop and noticed it was rough before I put it in park. As soon as I put it in reverse it was running rough and sounded like it was going to die. Forty miles later the check engine light was on and it was running terrible. A parts store recommended different spark plugs. A nice man who was there overheard the conversation and offered to put them in for me since I know nothing about doing. He said he gapped the spark plugs at 0.40? When I started it it ran like a dream until about 75 miles later and it began doing it again but the light never came on. It is doing the same thing which is a rough idle when stopped but it smooths out when I put it in park.
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Not sure if it did it last summer, but I have noticed that with the AC on when I come to a stop the RPM drops to right around 500 for a second and car has a light shudder (no doubt from the RPM being too low). Since it is only with AC on and for such a short time, is this a sign of something out of whack, or is it normal?
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I have an 05 pt cruiser that idles rough sporadically. Sometimes it idles smooth, sometimes it is rough but will calm down when i shift into gear, and sometimes it is rough when i let off the gas and come to a stop sign. When i first crank the car, the idle is rough and will act like it wants to cut out when i first back out of the driveway, but it clears up and drives better after getting gas. I have changed the plugs and wires, which did work, but there is something else still causing some problems. When at cruising speed, you can't detect any stutters or other problems. I looked at the vacuum lines and have a bottle of injector cleaner on 3 tanks of gas back to back with no apparent change. I did put a PCM on it a few years back, is it possible it has gone bad? The gas mileage also has seem to be suffering. I also checked the air filter as a possible problem, but it is very clean.
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I have a 1996 Chrysler LeBaron and when it idles it overheats so I did my research and I figured it could be the water pump I replace the water pump and during that process I had to disconnect the timing belt then put the water pump on and reinstall the timing belt when I put everything back together I thought I was done but it didn't start and I'm wondering if it's because the timing is off. I did not reset the timing nor move the camshaft how can I tell what's going on.
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I have problem with my 2006 Prius , idle shaking and when the engine stops its really rough.
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It is idling very rough at times, not all the time, when sitting at stop lights/signs. Sometimes it will stall out. 3 times it has stalled in the middle of an intersection while turning. Scary as hell! I Have to stop the van on the side of the road, put it in park, turn it off, then start it again before I can go. This process is getting Old!
While sitting at a stop sign/light, it's like the engine surges up and down. Some surges get low enough that the van will just die. If I step on the gas or put the van in neutral it will quit for a minute. All of the lights in, on, outside of the van go bright/dim with every surge. The battery light will occasionally flash on and off during the surges, but not every time.
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Sometimes I loose the idle speed and the engine stops when I stop the car but it could be started again with full throttle it doesn't happen always it happens from time to time > I changed the MAP, IS actuator and TPS .The fuel pump and filter is new .In rare cases engine stops during driving. How about flash programming the ECU
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We have a 2004 Passat V6, and we've noticed at idle, the engine makes 5 or six fast ticks, stops, then goes again, over and over. I tried searching but didn't find anything relevant.
Also, sometime when the AC is on, all of a sudden the air stops coming out, but the blower still roars, then a couple seconds later the air comes rushing out of the vents again.
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My 2003 ranger xlt 4.0 has a stalling problem. The engine light came on in aug and I had it coded at AutoZ and there was a code for the oxy sensor, changed that and didn't work so I took it back. In oct I had it coded and it said the air int temp sensor which i was informed was part of the mas airflow sensor, changed that the beginning of nov, got the computer to reset and it still didn't fix it.
Took that part back and had it coded again a few days later and several codes came up AutoZ code 1732 and the the OEM number to cross for them were: P2195 , P0300 , P0316 , P0174 , P0171 , P2197 . Reset the comp yesterday and as soon as the light came on had them code it again and it came up AutoZ code 1732 OEM # to cross P2195. I guess my next step will be to take it to the dealers to get diagnosed..
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I have a 2005 town and country that was running fine and when my wife picked me up today and was waiting idle it died. She didn't try to start it right away and when I got out there tried to start it and it fired then died and now it won't fire at all. It turns over fine but just won't fire.
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I did a timing belt replacement on the car. Checked the marks carefully for alignment since it took me nearly 2 hours to get them right to begin with, started the engine and it ran fine. Now, after putting the car back together again, the car will crank, and as long as I give it gas, idle smoothly at RPM's over 1000. Once I get my foot off of the gas, it will die, and I mean at once, no sputter or anything. I have pulled the IAC valve and cleaned it, and it seemed to do a little better in that i can let my foot off the gas and it will idle around 1000 RPM and slightly below, but it will eventually do the same, and the idle is ruff. I have also noticed while maintaining the higher RPM, there appears to be a slight surge in the RPM as if the car is trying to idle itself even higher off an on.
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