Chrysler - 300m :: 2001 - Electric Windows / Turn Signals And Display On AC Does Not Work
Sep 24, 2011
When it is hot out and the interior of the car gets really hot these things do not work: the electric windows will not work, the turn signals will not work, the display on the air conditioner does not work the blower on the air will not work but the air will come out of the defroster. All the dash lights come on abs, trac on trac off. After the car sits in the shade for at least an hour all these things will work.
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I have had this problem for a while now, but can't seem to figure it out. I'm sure it's an electrical issue, but I'm not that great with electrical. My turn signals don't click when I push the handle in either direction. The turn signals come on and stay on but don't blink like they should. I checked the lights in the front and back and they just stay on but don't blink. Also my hazards don't blink. They just stay on and don't make clicking noise either. My horn doesn't work and my door doesn't ding with the key still in the ignition but in the off position. I don't know of it's all related or different issues.
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I have an 05 Freestar with no instrumentation and no error codes. None of the gauges work and most of the warning lights are lit when the truck is running. No A/C and no ABS while driving and turn signals work, but do not display on the dash. It appears that two separate code readers are not acknowledging the computer. The battery and alternator check out good and there is no drain on the battery when ign switch is off.
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I just changed the multi-function switch on my 2001 PT Cruiser, because someone suggested it since my turn signals were not blinking or clicking. The turn signals come on, but do not blink or make that clicking sound at all. They just stay on. The hazards do not blink or click either. Lights and all work fine. It's just the turn signals and hazards that do not. What else controls the clicking and blinking of the turn signals and flashers. Could it be the relay that's inside the multi-function switch? I'm almost 100% sure we checked all the fuses, but I could be missing something.
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MY 2000 300M has a problem with the fuel gauge. When over 1/2 a tank and just under the full mark the gauge will randomly drop down to empty and turn on the low fuel light then go back to the correct reading and will do this over and over again. my mechanic has looked at the car believes it's the sending unit. Just wanted a second opinion before I spent the money for a fuel pump module for the car.
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So I lent my santa fe to a buddy to do some hauling, I got it back yesterday and the turn signals and the brake lights don't work...notta. Regular running lights are working without issue, but no turn signals, no hazards, no brakes. Even the "tick, tick, tick" of the turn signal is gone, it's just dead.
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I own a Elantra 2011 and I have a major problem. I cannot shift from PARK to DRIVE and my electric windows doesn't work either ! Everything else working fine and the car start normally !! The dealer cannot find the trouble and the car just have 19802 KM on it!!
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I've got a 2002 jetta. new ecu, new cluster, new keys (new to me from a 2010 beetle) all installed but my windows, door illumination, locks and electric mirrors dont work. Windows will go up and down with key in door, and locks work that way as well. if i put my old cluster back, everything works fine.
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I found out last night that all 3 of my brake lights are out. However, my tail lights work, and my turn-signals work. So obviously its not a big wiring deal. I was looking for the brake switch but i don't know where its at because i looked underneath. What fuse is the brake lights cause my manual doesn't have it listed. I drive a 04 Elantra GLS.
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I have a vw golf v6 2.8 4motion year 2002 and it has a few electrical problems. When ever i turn off the car and take the key out the electric windows still work and go up and down and i think its draining the battery but when i lock and unlock the car using the key they stop working. And the rear drivers side door is completely dead nothing works on it. What is causing this??
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I own a 2000 Chrysler 300m, and have been driving it daily for the past three years. The car had 102,000 miles when I bought it, it now has 158,000. About three months ago, at 154,000 miles, the driver side wheel bearing began to hum. Shortly after, before i was able to fix the bearing, the ball joint on the passenger side snapped. I had it towed in to a shop, and the mechanic told me I needed a ball joint as well as a new CV axle.. The mechanic didn't fix the wheel bearing on the other side, and I took the car back as it was because I needed transportation. when he returned the car, he told me that I needed the same thing done on the other side, but that I had a month or so to do it.
A week later, the wheel bearing broke on the driver side, and I returned the car to him. This time he changed bearing assembly, another CV axle, two outer tie rods, new caliper bolts, and new tie rod sleeves. When I got the car back, he told me I needed an alignment, and to go someplace else and get one. I drove the car and it rode the same as it did before, so I didn't get the alignment. Three months later, I have put only 4000 miles on the car and the passenger side ball joint and CV axle just broke again.
The mechanic says that this is because I didn't get the alignment, but I'm not so sure. I've driven cars that needed to be aligned before, and never had any ball joints break as a result. I think that he may have not put it on right, or missed something else that caused the problem. Is it likely that needing an alignment would cause a ball joint to break this quickly, on only one side, or is this guy trying to hose me?
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My 2000 300M has 135k miles on her. With the a/c on when I come up to a traffic light and stop, it feels like i have to press harder then normal to keep the car stopped at the light. the other night at a light I put the car in nuetrel and the engine rpm went from 700 rpm to 1500 and up to 2000 rpm. There is no check engine light at this time. the car does not to this when the a/c is off. I have not scanned the car yet.
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I love this car, but it makes me crazy at times. Was driving home from work last night and decided to stop at a sports bar for supper. Used turn signal to indicate right turn, looked at the dash, no indicator lighted on the dash, no 'tick, tick' sound.
Looked at the mirror housing, the turn arrow was flashing. The wife and I looked things over once we got parked, front turn signal worked (right and left), mirror housing worked and rear turn signal worked, but no dash indicators. As further information, brake lights worked, too.
Decided to 'reboot' the car. Shut it off, turn it on, no indicators. Went into the sports bar. Returned two hours later. Turned on car, used turn signal to indicate as we were leaving the parking lot, everything worked just fine...
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My headlights flicker everytime I hit the turn signals and bring my windows down, what might be causing this?
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I have a 2000 Chrysler 300M. Recently I got in the car and shut the door normally, not a hard slam or anything, and the driver side window just shattered to pieces. After having the glass replaced I had my mechanic check out the window regulator thinking that may have have been loose or in some way caused the glass to break. It checked out fine, no problem with the mechanism could be found. I've been using the window since then for about 3 months with no problems. What could have caused this window to crumble?
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When I towed with my 2005 V-8 Touareg, the speedo displayed an indicator (like this - ) when the turn signals were actuated. I now have a 2009 TDI. The brake controller has just been installed and the turn signals work fine but no display.
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My 2002 Sebring won't start. Here's what happens:
Turn the key in the ignition. Engine makes no noise at all. It's sorta like when the battery died 2 months ago, except this time the power windows and doors work, the headlights and interior lights work, though oddly, the radio doesn't. The radio, FYI, is not the one that came with the car. I bought it back in 2010 after the cassette deck on the original broke and I needed something with an Auxilary connector to connect my Ipod to. I had it professionally installed.
So the car doesn't start. The engine doesn't make any noise. The headlights do come on. The dashboard lights that normally come on when you try to start it up (the check engine light, the airbag light etc., also do not come on at any point. I don't recall any particular clicking sounds when I turn the ignition. I do remember hearing these clicking noises (sort of a quick one time click for each key turn) when the car wouldn't start due to battery/alternator issues two months ago.
So I did a bit of research, and I think it's either the starter solenoid or the ignition switch. Am I far off base?
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I just got a 2000 F350 cc drw 7.3l.
I did search but have had no luck. My turn signals do not work, unless my foot is on the brake pedal my green arrow indicator wont even turn on. When they do my bulbs work but don't cycle so I know all the bulbs are good as I had my wife check all four corners when I got them to come on for a split second. I have tried replacing the MFS and the turn signal relay under the radio in the dash.... When I do turn on my blinkers I can hear the relay click once but that is it, no more.
I tried checking the wiring in the column and tilting the column to its extremes while trying to engage the turn signals. Also, if I unplug the brake light switch then I do not get an arrow on the IC to light up so I am guessing the power flows through that switch. I don't have a chilton manual yet and the owners manual was not in the truck. I did check fuse 23 ?
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My electric rear vent windows seem to have a problem opening when the temperature is cold outside. They work almost perfectly when the weather warms up, with the exception of an odd little glitch here and there. Generally summer is good, winter is a no-go. I understand this is a common problem ???
Even at the times when they don't open I can clearly hear an electronic click near the back pillars, with each push of the control switch up front, so I assume the current is making it at least that far and there is no problem with the wiring up to that point.
I have recently removed two used actuators (R+L) from a donor vehicle, and will likely be installing those into my van in the very near future. Although I believe they came from a close but different year windstar which did not have the exact same "rivets" through the window as mine does. External arms etc that can be seen do look identical as does the pivot ball.
#1. is replacement of the actuators a likely solution to the problem ?
#2. by chance, is it merely just an issue of dirty connections with my present actuators ?
#3. can / should I do anything such use dielectric grease on the connections of either my present ones or the donor ones upon replacement, to alleviate future recurrence ?
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Toyota Cressida 1981 5ME sedan. Problems with drivers kick panel fuse, breaker block due to water damage and ?. Long story! Some things ( windows, heater etc) work sometimes for months then dont work. Turn signals were first blew two fuses then quit. Flashers fine. Horn stopped then caught up at next left turn. etc. etc. Have replaced, tested, cleaned and am still doing so. At one time every warning light was lit. now only battery light is on, battery is charging. Windows and heater quit, they worked two weeks ago. and Haynes book and owners manual are incomplete and confusing.No Chiltons for this car. Had power steering pump replaced last year, mechanic moved, knocking noise began again in 2 months got worse. Just last week figured out that the nut on the power steering pump pulley was gone.
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So I shorted wires out putting a new plug on my mirror, and now I have no turn signals, no backup lights and no overhead display that shows mpg and outside temp. All fuses are good, and I don't think it is my flasher relay just because I also have no park lamps or over head display.
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