Chrysler - 300 :: Loud Clunk When Coasting Downhill
Jul 2, 2015
I have a 2010 Chrysler 300 Signature Series. I have taken it to 3 mechanics re: this issue but no one can find anything wrong. For work I park in a 5 story parking structure. When I'm leaving and driving our of the structure, "downhill" , I coast slowly between the turns and when I lightly put my foot on the accelerator to drive around the corners/turns there is a loud "clunk" and you can feel a little "jerk" in the car. It happens everyday but the mechanics can't reproduce the sound or the jerk. What this can be? It has happened only twice when on a flat surface, again in the parking lot, when I'm slowly coasting looking for a spot and then give it a little gas to drive forward.. the "clunk" and "jerk".
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Typically after driving for 5 minutes or so my temp gauge is in the middle at 200f. After about 15 min of moderate 35-45 mph driving it went down a notch below the 200 mark after it had reached 200f. I've noticed this happen a few times recently. I did notice that it happens while coasting downhill. I guess i'll be taking it it to my mechanic to take a look.
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This is on a 2010 GTI with 20K km.
I've noticed a buzzing noise coming from the front of the car whenever I coast downhill. Almost sounds like an off-tune radio. Noise gets louder as the car picks up speed, and becomes quieter as I brake. What can it be? I think I was in 3rd gear.
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During an extended drive of the new ride today, we noticed an intermittent vibration when coasting downhill around 60MPH. I popped it in neutral and the vibration disappeared completely. Also, it stayed vibration-free when placed back in Drive, without touching the gas. But as soon as throttle is applied and then you coast again, the vibration reappears.
This points to a condition that only happens when the torque converter is locked, which could be a vibration originating within the transfer case that once coupled to the engine via the locked torque converter uses the engine as a tuning fork, resulting in the vibration. The L-SB-0013-12 AWD Vibration TSB mentions an ECM recalibration, which likely changes the torque converter to unlock whenever you lift off the gas pedal. Is this correct?
I also remember reading about the other TSB, where the "magic expensive fluid" in the transfer case gets changed 3 times in rapid succession. This would address chattering clutches within the transfer case, eliminating vibration at the source vs. masking it by unlocking the torque converter.
We also noticed a misfiring sensation under light throttle conditions at around 40-50MPH. I'm wondering if this is in fact the transfer case clutch chatter issue also...since the 60k spark plug replacement has already been done.
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So our car has performed flawlessly since 2005/135K miles. Still getting 55 mpg in the display in the summer, 45 mpg in the winter. Only issue is traction battery SOC quickly goes to full green when coasting downhill, and 1 or 2 purple bars when climbing. In Colorado, this happens a lot. Within a mile or so coasting downhill the SOC is full green. Question is: should I replace the traction battery? Is there any harm to continuing to experience this behavior? When full green, I realize I am using friction braking over regen braking, have actually felt the crossover from regen to the pads, as the SOC goes full green.
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The following issue has been stumping every mechanic that I have talked too. We have a 1948 Chevy with a 350 ram Jet and 700 R-4 transmission. The water temp while on the road runs about 180, and up to 195 in town. The following is the problem. When coasting down a hill it will periodically quit, like the key was turned off. I have to through it in neutral, start it, and then put in drive while rolling. It never has done it at idle, on straight a ways, or up hill. No, I can’t avoid going down a long hill sometimes.
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I got my grandpa's 84 ford f250 its been sitting in the barn for awhile but i drove it over to my house yesterday and it drove fine but you did have to push on the brake quite a bit but not to bad but today after school i took it for a drive around the block and i noticed that when i was going down hill just coasting i was slowing down a lot and my foot was not on the brake but when i got home my breaks were smoking pretty good but tomorrow i was going to take the front breaks off (its only the front two disk breaks doing this) and clean all the rust off them and put a little oil on the piston on the caliper that pushes on the break pads...
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I am a first time Toyota car owner. I bought a 2010 Toyota Corolla LE this past Saturday. It has only 42,000 miles on it, and I got a pretty decent deal on it! I'm still getting used to how the car drives, but it seems to be running great. The only thing I notice sometimes is that I am coasting downhill (not using the brakes) I notice a bit of a vibration sound coming from what sounds like the back windshield. If it keeps occurring, I might take it to the dealer for them to check it out. With my luck, the issue might not even happen though with them there.
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I have a 1987 ramcharger with a 318 and auto tranny. I just put a new carburetor on it. The previous owner partially deleted the lean burn system but didn't change out the carb. I put a Carter 2bbl on it. The truck will start fine and drive fine until I try to go down hill, it then stalls. It doesn't do it as much going up hill, but is still a problem then. If I keep on the accelerator it stays running. I cant figure out what the deal is and is absolutely driving me nuts.
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I recently picked up a 2003 chrysler town and country from a local GM dealer in central MN. After filling out the paperwork etc I was on my way home and the transmission made a loud CLUNK. I thought I must be imagining things. At the next intersection as I accelerated from the light "CLUNK". I called the dealer right away and they stood behind the van. The dealer had me bring it to the transmission shop covering all expenses. They fixed it, or so they said. We had it for a few days and had similar problems. Back to the transmission shop. They then completely went through the transmission. We got it back and again had issues... this time it was a slight shudder in the transmission as you slowly accelerated. I brought it back again. They replaced the torque convertor. I've only had it back for a few days and it still has an occasional slight shudder under slow acceleration... it usually happens around 30mph.
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So, I am driving, engine starts to knock, i stop, check oil, there is none.... I drive to nearest gas station, put in 4 quarts, still knocks but quieter. Drive back home 75 miles, knocking is incredibly loud. Had oil changed 2500 miles ago, no signs of leaking (Did they put oil in after draining? Hard to prove they didn't) By the time I got home, new oil was black. Is this an engine replacement or can it be fixed?
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My 2004 Chrysler Sebring with 128K miles is making a loud whirring noise when I accelerate. It does not happen when I break, coast or am idle. I live in a city and potholes are a way of life. I got four new tires in November and had the alignment checked and fixed at the time. What it could be?
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I have a 2009 Town and Country. When it is raining and after I have gone 20 minutes or so driving and then come to a stop it makes a loud noise from the passenger side, sometimes the front most times the rear. It is a rattling metallic sound It sounds like a motorcycle engine sound. It continues for a few minutes and then stops. There seems to be a burning smell with it too.
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I was driving down the street earlier today, when I heard (and felt) a loud *clunk* from under the car. At first I thought it was a blown tire from the way the car was handling, but then I heard the grinding/screeching sound. No matter what gear I put the car in (even neutral), it makes the grinding noise and won't move. I've narrowed it to to either a transmission issue or a problem with the drive shaft.
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I was having some issues with rattling sounds from my brand new (less than 100 miles) Prius C2--see my thread here.
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This is regarding my 96 BMW 328i. It has approximately 177,000 miles on it. Over the past year, I've replaced the cooling system, fuel pump, alternator and trans fluid for kicks. So, I'm understandably frustrated with it. Anyway, to my story:
On my way into work, whenever I pressed in on the clutch, it would make a loud clunk/pop and freak me out. I turned around after 1/4 of the way and swapped cars.
My mechanical skills are maybe 3 on a scale of 1 to 10. I'm not afraid of changing oil, brake pads, transmission fluid, changing an alternator, etc. But I want to have someone to blame for anything that involves anything within the engine block/head/transmission continuum.
I noticed that a heat shield was loose between the driveshaft and the exhaust. I rapped it with a hammer, and the heat shield didn't make a noise anything like I'm hearing. So, it doesn't sound like that's the real culprit here.
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Only when I'm banging through gears into 2nd my motor I think, makes a loud clunk. I checked the motor mounts an they were tight. What else could it be?
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Very loud very violent thump while driving at all speeds. Becomes more often and not as loud while accelerating. Decelerating becomes loud and violent again. Tranny fluid is fine and doesn't smell burnt. I haven't owned the vehicle very long but my family enjoys it.
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2005 V8 Phaeton,82,000 miles.
If I ease on the brakes ,no problem but if I hit the pedal there is a loud bang or clunk from underneath,sometimes front and sometimes in the back. It's as if the wheels stopped but the chassis went forward and back slightly. As long as I put the brakes on gradually there is no problem stopping.
When I come off the Interstate and leave the off ramp, the low side of the front end sounds as if there is no shock absorber ,doesn't matter which side is low,they both do it on the low side.
Intermittent problems.
Steering wheel turns and grinding,groaning noises from under the hood, not all the time.
Going over a speed bump in a parking lot causes the same noise I get exiting the Interstate.
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My '05 Ranger Edge has started making a loud bang from the rear axle. It does it when I apply throttle, apply brake, and to a lesser extent, when I hit a (small) bump. The truck shakes when it bumps almost as if I got rear-ended. What does this sound like?
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It seems the car has developed a loud "clunk sound" during some "spirited" driving. It is also felt near my left foot when this happens. It will happen, lets say, once during a right turn. Then, if a left turn is soon followed in the same "spirited" manner, another clunk will happen. There may be a less loud clunk once in a while during a quick take-off from a light. Is something shifting around? Is this cause for immediate action or can I wait until my 10k service in about a month?
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