Chrysler - 300 :: Car Reaches 60 Mph Then Slows Down / Rough Push
Oct 22, 2016
I own a Chrysler 300 touring. It's 2006 and its automatic transmission. I was driving on the highway and I reached 60mph then I heard a sound and a rough push and suddenly the car started loosing speed. It didn't loose power. Luckily I was getting off the highway and turned on the hazard lights, I made it into a neighborhood and let the car reach 0. When it did I pressed on the accelerator and it started moving.
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My transmission bumps every time it slows down to 30 mph, dealer said needs to be rebuild.
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Alright here comes another head scratcher, the car has no check engine lights, no oil is leaking, and all of the liquid levels are at their normal readings. The problem I am having is the car feels like it is dragging a bit, as in it takes a bit to accelerate and as soon as I lift my foot off the gas it drastically slows down.
Talk about 0 to 60 in 30 seconds and 60 to 30 in 5 seconds. Now what I have noticed is every time I pass a radar detecting sign, to make sure you are going the speed limit or slower, which in this case it is supposed to be 25 mph, my speedometer will read 30 to 35 mph, but the sign will state I am going 23 or 24 mph.
I know the detector is working because I tested it with my dad's Buick and while the Buick stated 20 the detector also stated 20, I know what you are saying maybe it's just a fluke, well I tested the detector with my brothers cougar, my sisters Honda, and my friends Chrysler and they all stated 20 both on speedometer and the detector. I have changed the spark plugs, the ecm, the ignition coil, the spark plug wires, starter, the valve cover gasket, hoses that were broken, the speed sensor, cam shaft position sensor and it passed the state inspection.
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I have a 05 6.0l. Egr deleted. And my truck has a rough idle and power loss. Ive tested the ipr and the icp and they are reading at specs. I've also replaced the Hpop about 1500 miles ago. It has a real rough idle until it's at running temp. And it has power loss, I'll be driving down road and theres no where near has much power has there should be. And the idle will jump between 1500 rpm and 2000rpm.
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I drive (or more recently used to drive) a 2002 VW Jetta which has been having extreme difficulty running correctly during moist weather. Initially, upon start-up, I will note a severe problem.... it seems as if it's shaky, very shaky, and does not want to move. Upon trying to move it ignoring it's obvious signs, it does not want to take when I push in the gas....seeming to jerk or move incredibly slow. Usually feeling as if I can barely get it to move a 10 yards or so before being too nervous to push it any further. These issues seem to exist far far far more frequently in wet or moist weather (even a day or 2 after it has rained).
The car has always been well taken care of. What are the possible causes, then I might have some better luck requesting services upon calling mechanics around the area.... I am currently in college, away from home, and I absolutely cannot afford to get "nickle-and-dimed" by the dealership over every possible minor detail which could POSSIBLY need some tuning-up. It currently has just over 100,000 miles and has never had any major replacements.
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I have an 05 pt cruiser that idles rough sporadically. Sometimes it idles smooth, sometimes it is rough but will calm down when i shift into gear, and sometimes it is rough when i let off the gas and come to a stop sign. When i first crank the car, the idle is rough and will act like it wants to cut out when i first back out of the driveway, but it clears up and drives better after getting gas. I have changed the plugs and wires, which did work, but there is something else still causing some problems. When at cruising speed, you can't detect any stutters or other problems. I looked at the vacuum lines and have a bottle of injector cleaner on 3 tanks of gas back to back with no apparent change. I did put a PCM on it a few years back, is it possible it has gone bad? The gas mileage also has seem to be suffering. I also checked the air filter as a possible problem, but it is very clean.
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I have a 2006 PT Cruiser with approximately 94K miles on it. This year I started a 2-hr round trip commute every week day, so the car went from getting ~200 mi. a week on it to ~700 mi. a week. I bought it used ~4 years ago with 28K mi. on it.
2 months ago, the car started shaking between the speeds of 50 and 60 mph. Not sure how to best describe it - kind of a shake/jerk, like someone was jerking the car forward very quickly and repeatedly. It seemed to be strongest in the front of the car on the passenger side, although you could feel it throughout the car. I took it to a repair shop. They balanced the tires, but that only very mildly worked. Then they changed the front axles (said there was a lot of play in them). They replaced the brakes, rotors, and timing belt at as well, for unrelated reasons. With new front axles, the shake disappeared, but the car has been idling incredibly rough ever since I got it back. You can see the steering wheel vibrate and feel it in the seat when I start the car or am stopped with it running. This never used to happen.
Additionally, the shake has now returned, but from the driver's side of the front of the car now. Again, it's between 50 and 60 mph, although it's slowly creeping up into the 60-65 range also. It's stronger if I'm pushing the gas down more, like when going up a steep hill. If I'm going downhill at 50-60mph, I don't notice it or barely notice it. On flat ground it's noticeable, uphill it's becoming severe.
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I have a 2006 Chrysler Sebring Convertible 2.7L engine. Replaced water pump and spark plugs. We triple checked the alignment on the chain and are sure the timing is fine. Car started right up. Now running rough idle and engine light comes on. Codes read misfires on 1, 3, and 5 cylinders.
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My G35 has around 115,000 miles and it slows down when driving, particularly when driving uphill. RPMs reach 2-3 and car begins to drag with an occasional jerking. I've replaced all spark plugs (don't think I've ever replaced them since I bought the car used with 40,000 miles) and I notice one of the coil packs and its spark plug was oily, but then I also notice it was not connecting to the spark plug like the rest the rubber tip was ripped. I replaced the coil pack, but the issue still exist. I just got back from a test drive and this time it doesn't lose speed so much, but still trembles, especially when going uphill.
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I tried going up the driveway and as I was accelerating, I almost noticed a little "slowing down" while trying to accelerate up the driveway. It was really snowy so I am thinking that it might have been the ESC trying to fix the path. I thought about this after I got it up the driveway, so I couldn't test it.
Is this normal or should I have it looked at by a mechanic???
2011 Hyundai sonata SE...
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So today I was driving to work and it was pretty cold out. It was about -22/-30 C with the wind. The drive is about 20 minutes in traffic. I to through drivethru and as I am leaving I notice that the temp dropped from about 90 to around 75/80. I then drive accross the street to work and the temp goes back up to 90. So I decided to sit there and let the car idle for a few minutes. Then the temp dropped again by about 10.
So I called the dealer and stopped by. All they did is take it for a test drive and do a scan to tell me everything is fine. By then the temp had warmed up outside and the issue was no longer present.
Having issues with fluctuating temp once your car reaches 90?
I know with my MK4 Golf 1.8T when I used to be in stop and go traffic the gauge would go down. So I replaced my thermostat and all was fine after that.
Do a modern car can a scan detect temp going below 90? Or could be a sticky thermostat?
It's a 2015 Golf 1.8 TSI
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For those of you that own both a TCH and a 2010 Prius I have a question for you. My commute is only 6-7 miles to work and currently I am getting approximate 45mpg displayed on the mfd. I think I read somewhere that the display calculations may be a little high but all in all I am very happy with my mpg. I am considering trading my 09 TCH for a 2011 or possibly 2010 Prius if the price is right. Anyway If I accelerate my 09 TCH to approximately 41 mph and take my foot off the accelerator, when the car speed slows to about 38 to 37 mph the engine will shut down. I can now lightly push the accelerator to drive along just using the battery. If on a flat road or a slight down hill grade I can even pick up speed and get to about 41 mph before the engine starts back up. My question is how does the Prius work the same way? What are the speeds for the Prius?
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I have a 05 Sprinter 6 cyl gas HD that overheats a little at highway speeds over 60mph and then the rpm is limited so the van slows down to the 50 mph range even if I floor the gas peddle, I usually pull over turn off the engine and let it cool down for an hour and resume the trip. It only does that when going up the mountains while the van is loaded or on extremely long trips. Ive taken it to two mechanics both could not reproduce the problem. It has 250k...
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Ok so this one is pretty hard to explain. I was driving home from school, doing about 55 in fifth gear. Out of no where, my car started to bog very hard and slow down. I pulled into a lot and as I was in the entrance of the lot the car haulted itself but stayed on. I say there for about a minute, then put it in 1st and drove into a parking spot. I stayed there for a little, then drove home in the right lane and it seems to be back to normal. I also did a few test pulls and it felt a little laggy but that might just be in my head. It's a 2012 golf r, 37k miles with just an EVOMs intake. Stock otherwise. What this could be? Don't want to get stuck on the highway somewhere if this happens again.
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My 2005 RX330 has run fine for all 45000 miles to date. One exception is that there is a high pitched hum that becomes noticeable once the car reaches 30 mph and continues to increase pitch until about 45mph. The hum seems to disappear when going faster than 45. If you cruise on a quiet street at 30mph the hum will stay steady if you maintain speed. The hum will increase if you accelerate.
But... if you take your foot off the gas pedal the hum instantly stops. Put your foot back on the pedal and it instantly starts. You can almost "play a song" by taking your foot off and on the pedal. Lexus service clearly heard the sound during a test drive, but could not figure it out.
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I have a 2002 Camry (4 cylinders). About two weeks ago, I started to notice vibration on the passenger side of the car, front side, when the car reaches a certain speed (around 30-40 mph). At first I thought it was a wheel inbalance, so I took it to the Toyota Dealership and have them re-balance the wheels.
The problem, however, did not go away. I remember a while back after I got an oil change, the maintenance guy at the dealership mentioned that the motor mounts were going bad. Is it possible that bad/worn motor mount can cause vibration at certain speeds? The problem only occurs on the passenger side.
I do not notice vibration at idle (I think). I will have to drive the car again to double check this. But vibration is much more apparent when the car hits 30 mph+.
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I have a 2000 honda accord. I have it for a long time and then few months ago i just notice that every time my car reaches 40 km/hr onward, my car is producing a loud sound even i put it in neutral sound will never gone it will only go back to its normal sound when the car goes 39 km/hr down. My car has a problem with the cv joint i think because i can hear a "tik-tik" sound every time I am turning. do you thing the loud sound comes from the cv joint too?
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My F-150 ac shuts down when air temp reaches above 80 degrees. The freon has been checked, the compressor clutch cycling switch & high pressure switch have been replaced with no effect.
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2.5 months ago I had a coolant flush in my 2007 explorer Eddie Bauer. The last 3 days last week the temp gauge went from the middle where it usually sits, to maxed out in the red. Stays there for about 45 secs and then drops back down.
Is it coincidence that I had a flush and maybe they didn't fill it all the way back up or is it somthing else ?
One other thing- even when it sits in the middle of the gauge I can sometimes hear the engine sucking in air like a vacuum so I guess at certain times its running hot but just doesn't raise the gauge just yet.
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I have 1992 Honda Accord, LX. Automatic. 108K miles. There is a "growling" sound that comes from the transmission once the car reaches 40 miles per hour. This sound increases and decreases with the speed of the car. The car shifts fine. Does not buck. The transmission fluid most likely needs to be changed considering the mileage, and I'm not aware if it was ever changed considering I am not the original owner. I have been told a few things are possible causes. Changing the fluid may work. (Questionable) There is a sensor that can cause this. And lastly, it needs to be rebuilt.
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I have 1995 Dodge Neon (automatic). Lately, after long trips and on the highway the "check engine" light will come on. Then, the car seems to struggle shifting. I will be cruising along at like 68 MPH, then ease my foot off the gas to slow down, and the engine/car awkwardly jerks 2-3 times as it slows down. Trying to stay in the 60-70 MPH range is hard because is keeps hesitating and jerking as my speed changes, not HEAVILY but enough to make driving unpleasant. My cruise control stopped working about a year ago, I have not had it looked at yet, but I thought I should mention it. When I let the car rest overnight, the light goes off, and there is not problem until I go on a long trip again (around 200 miles.) This only happens at higher speeds, around town there is not a problem.
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