Chrysler - 300 :: 2008 - Won't Start - Installed / Uninstalled Transmission Several Times
Oct 12, 2012
I bought my 2008 Chrysler 300 used at a car auction and its been running fine for the past couple years. About two months ago the transmission needed repair so I took it out and took it to a mechanic to get fixed. All i had to do was install the transmission back into my car. My car was still running when i took it to the mechanic. Once I picked it up from the mechanic i have been installing and uninstalling the transmission several times and yet my car still won't turn on. I don't want to have to buy a new one...
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We have a 2005 Crossfire. The cars is great except at times it will not start. The problem has no schedule and does not happen often, although it does appear to occur only in the afternoon. There seems to be no correlation to a hot or cold engine. The last two times the car has failed to start it was after it had sat in the parking lot all day, parked at 8 AM attempted to restart at 4:30 PM (ambient temperature of 80° to 90°F). In these two cases after some time had passed, 3 + hours, the car started.
Times before, it had failed during "shopping" trips (in and out of stores). Once it failed while being driven in stop and go traffic. We've had this car at the Chrysler dealer many times. They only know what the computer tells them and they say they cannot find the fault in the cars' computer record. When we attempt to start the car, all the indicator lights illuminate but there is absolutely no signal sent to the starter when the key is turned. Once I observed the LED lights at the bottom of the instrument cluster did not illuminate when the door was opened.
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I have a 2008 Ford Lariat F150 with 53k miles. The transmission seems like it slips at times. Here's the scenario. When I take off from a standstill and going through the gears at a normal acceleration pace, say I momentarily lighten the acceleration pace then try to resume. At that point, the transmission seems to slip momentarily, then bumps back into the pull mode. It feels like there is slack in the drivetrain until it re-engages, or like the lockup torque converter momentarily releases until the computer has time to react to the accelerator positioner calling for more. One guy said the transmission is, at that point, between two gears... either trying to decide to downshift or to upshift, but you can feel the surge in rpm momentarily until it decides ... then bump and your off and running again. If I push the O/D button, it stops doing it. What I can do? Because the dealer can't seem to get it to act up when they test drive it. It does it fairly regularly on me though.
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Just installed my Touareg Dash Cover and it was easy, but I need to hit the thing 4 or 5 times before it opens, is the way it is for everyone? I do have the new screws (small)!
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My 2008 Chrysler Town & Country has, since it was 2 mos. old, had a "no-start" problem. This is not a stalling problem. It happens when the car is off and I try to turn it on. The problem is very sporadic (sometimes several times a day - I do lots of short drives - sometimes several times over the course of a few weeks, then no problems for months). When I turn the key in the ignition, all electrical components come on (dashboard lights, air, radio, etc.) but nothing happens with the engine (it does not make a sound). The dealer has replaced a computer component, the battery, the starter, the electronic keys but the problem always happens again (within a few days of it the "repair"). I usually have to turn the key 3-12 times (sometimes I take it out of the ignition, sometimes I pray!) and eventually the engine starts. Because the problem is sporadic, the dealer has not been able to replicate the problem (though they have, at times, had it for a week or more and even driven it as if it were their own, home at night, to work, to run errands). Although the car eventually starts, it is very problematic when I have to be somewhere and it takes 10 minutes (not to mention a lot of worrying) to get it started.
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I have a 2008 Sebring convertible that has starting issues. Sometimes when I turn the key to start, it does nothing (no noises, maybe a small click very rarely). If I take the key out and put it back in, it may start. Usually, I have to turn the power on, move the gears, and try again. Sometimes, it will start immediately, or I may have to do this procedure several times. It has been taken into the Chrysler dealer twice. They said it was not the switch or alternator and replaced the battery that wouldn't keep a charge. It was a 5-yr battery with 3 years of use. I was told to drive more! I shouldn't have to charge the battery every day. Several diagnostic tests were performed with no results. It still did this twice after the battery was replaced. Could it be cables?
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I recently put an air intake on my car. I first left the MAF sensor uninstalled, and just ran it with the air temp sensor, and it ran great. But then I thought to myself, I better but that MAF sensor in there to just to be sure my car gets everything it needs to run. But once I but it in there, the car felt like the horsepower was restricted. The acceleration was poor, and the responce was crappy. I then took it off, and the car ran as great as before.Is it really that important to have that sensor installed, or can my car survive without it.
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I have a 2008 Chrysler Town & Country with all the bells and whistles. About a year ago started with a strange problem. When you started the car these things happened: The windshield wipers would start flapping, the windows would be locked, fan on the heating system would go to full blast while the temperature would reset to 72 degrees and the automatic doors would not work. The problem is intermittent and seems to be worse on hot days. My mechanic was lost on this and sent us to the dealer. The dealer said it was the radio/DVD system? That didn’t sound right so I had them just disconnect the system to see first if it corrected the problem. Hooked the system back up. Now the DVD doesn’t work and still have the problem. We have tried turning off the car and unhooking the battery. this stops it sometimes. Then we found that just resetting the the temperature would straighten it out (sometimes and temporarily). The car has been doing great for the past 6 months (fall and winter) and now started doing it again.
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I recently brought my 2000 chrysler sebring in because the alarm was going off at random times (3:00am). Also when I was driving the interior lights would turn on and off and the dash readout would say "DOOR" as if I had opened the door, there was a relay clicking sound under the dash and the car would also try to relock the doors. This was an intermittent problem, occasionally the car would be fine for a while then the show would begin. I took it to a local Chrysler dealer and they diagnosed the problem to be the BCM or Body Control Module.
My conclusion is that this whole problem was caused by a shorting door switch and that either they misdiagnosed the problem and when the new BCM did not fix the problem they found the real problem in the door switch or they just scammed me from the start. I think the "part exchange program" is a scam. Why don't I get the part back or why don't I get two prices, one if I exchange the part and one if I don't.
Could a faulty driver door switch damage a BCM? (I never heard of this before. In fact another dealer told me all he needed was the VIN to see if the part was in stock).
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my 1997 town and country van with the 3.8 liter engine keeps stalling at unpredictable times. sometimes when it is cold first thing in the morning, other times when fully warmed up at a stop light and sometimes on the interstate at 70 mph. The tach drops to zero, the speedometer drops to zero, the check engine light blinks on and then back off, the computer doesn't record any error codes. it causes the cruise control to drop out while on the hiway. the engine always starts right back up, for how long, its unpredictable. Mechanics have replaced the three engine sensors twice, checked and cleaned wiring contacts at sensors and engine computer. And also the Knock sensor has already been disconnected per a chrysler bulletin. At highway speeds the engine usually bucks and then keeps running, but sometimes dies.
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I'm having trouble with my 2004 Ford F-150 5.4 Triton V8 starting, when i try to start it i have to move the shifter all the way down and up multiple times with the key open in order to start the truck. I don't what it is I think it may be the Neutral Safety Switch or Shifter cable.
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Here's the scoop, was driving down the freeway the other day, car is a 2001 PT Cruiser going about 65-70 MPH when all the sudden it felt as if I had hit something, a loud bump sound which came from underneath the engine, then an immediate reduction in speed and acceleration. After that, I was trying to accelerate the car, the RPMs were revving like crazy but the car would not go more than 15 MPH, while the RPMs were revving and revving, almost as if I was in park.
Got the car to the side of the road, opened the hood and found that the top of the dipstick (transmission) had blown off and shot transmission fluid all over the engine. Unsure of why this happened but sure that was what the loud sound was before the drastic drop in acceleration.
After that I had the car towed to my house, now it will start, but not drive in reverse at all, i'm afraid to try driving it to inspect it further but that's pretty much where I am at right now. There's 117k miles on this car...
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Just installed new clutch and everything good except pedal doesnt comecall way up now have pull up with foot, ans grabs rt off the floor, i assume just need to adjust? Make adjust rod longer?
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i just got my edelbrock performer rpm intake and my holley 4 barrel installed but it won't run...the only way i can get it to hit and run at all is to floor it like it's flooded...then it'll run for a second but will never rev up and get going like it should...so i watched some vids on youtube for setting mixture on holley's wich i was pretty sure about anyway...turned the idle mixture screws in to snug and then out 1 and a half turns. is this a symptom of a bad vacuum leak or is it something to do with the carb maybe not enough fuel?
it's a holley 4160...list-6619...which is 600 cfm...it's on a 302 with 3 speed.
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I have a 2005 Nissan Frontier that recently had a new transmission and radiator installed due to a defect where coolant leaks into the transmission and destroys Nissan transmissions. After I got my truck back it ran fine for about 2 days, then on the third day I started it and the gauges all started going up and down at a speed of about 72 bpm. I shut it off let sit for a few minutes started it and it did this again. I repeated that about 4 times. I let it sit for about 4 hours started it and it was fine for a very short drive (1/2 mile). After about another 2 hours of sitting I tried to start and the battery was dead, my friend jumped it and it drove fine. So it sat for a few days until I had my brother jump it so I could drive to get a new battery. Once it was jumped the moving of the gauges started again.
As I was driving, the gauges kept coming on the going off. I got it to advanced auto and they replaced the battery, it started up drove it for a matter of minutes, then the gauges died and it wouldn’t drive faster than 1 MPH, then engine would rev when I hit the gas. I got it to a parking lot shut it off tried starting it the gauges would come on but as soon as I hit the gas pedal it would rev up but instantly the gauges would shut off and the engine would rev anymore. So I was stuck, got it towed to where the transmission was put in. They couldn't fix it but had to jump it to start it, so the new battery was dead. They towed it to a Nissan dealer and the mechanics are now saying it’s just a bad battery, but this just doesn't make any sense to me.
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Picked up my truck from the local transmission shop yesterday and on the way home (less than 3 miles away), I noticed the ABS light was on. I turned around back to the shop but the guy behind the desk couldn't pull the codes (his mechanics smart with codes don't work Saturday). So I will head back tomorrow when his code-smart dude is back but was wondering is there anything they could have done during the tranny install to muck up the ABS system? Or do they need to do something because of the new transmission?
I checked the #15 5-amp fuse under the steering wheel but it looks good. Truck runs good to me and shifts fine in the 10 or so miles I drove it yesterday but I'm not savvy with transmissions or ABS.
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All I did was cut off the straight section of tailpipe and install a 2.5" inlet, 4" outlet exhaust tip. It sounds a bit deeper at idle and a little louder when I rev it, but when I let off the gas it pops pretty loud.
I remember hearing popping on decel on videos of trucks where aftermarket exhaust/mufflers were installed, but not just from a new tip.
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I recently had new tires installed on my 2008 Prius and after the tires were installed she drove better than ever and I drove about 150 miles across Florida with no issues what so ever. But when I went for a drive this evening, after about 30 minutes of driving my TPMS light blinked for about a minute then stayed solid for about 3 minutes but then went out. When I got out of the car all the tires looked okay, I didn't have a gauge on me and I will check the pressures tomorrow.
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I just installed a Heater AC Control panel that was broken when things shifted in my truck. Now, air blows, but I get no AC. I'm wondering if something deeper in the dash was broken.
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I installed my hks ssm yesterday,it sounded great except for a clunking noise every time i pass by an uneven road...i found out that the hks pipe was hitting "the round thing next to the shocks" ... that's why the oem muffler had a little round stopper.. I tried to wrap it with a little exhaust wrap thinking it would fix it but it did'nt, just wondering if there's a DIY or something for this problem.
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I don't know what's going on with my power windows control on the driver door. Auto up/down function is not working. It cannot roll passenger windows up or down. I checked the other 3 doors and the switches worked. I don't know where to look!
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