Chrysler :: 2007 - Can Use AC Recirculator All The Time?
Jul 25, 2011
My wife has a 2007 Chrysler Town & Country. We've been using the AC a lot lately due to extreme heat. Her owner's manual says only to use the AC recirculator sparingly--at start up and in extreme heat but then to turn on the outside vents. It seems to me that the recirculator support AC run more efficiently and saves you fuel. Why does the manual say this?
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Yesterday when I tried to fill up my 2007 Town and Country I found I cannot put more than about 1/2 gallon at a time before the pump shuts off. I have the problem at multiple stations/pumps so I know it is a problem in my car.
I have heard this could be a clogged charcoal canister so that the air cannot get out of the tank as the gas is going in. Where this unit is located on the Town and Country? Could there be another issue? A week ago when I filled the tank I had no problem, but yesterday it took a very long time to fill up from empty.
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My transmission bumps every time it slows down to 30 mph, dealer said needs to be rebuild.
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After driving I place car in Park, try to turn key to off. Will only go to Accessory position. Suggestions have been shifter, wheel lock. Dealer said they need to replace the shifter. Re-shifting into park does not work, turning wheel does not work. Have discovered that if I turn the key to the accessory position, wait & listen, I hear a distinct CLICK (like the sound an old solenoid would have made) and the key will go to off and can be removed. Early in the morning this can take 20 seconds. Later in the day some unknown number of minutes. Luckily I can leave the car with the key in it without fear of someone taking the car. I have even recorded the sound and have attached the sound file here It happens about 13 seconds in.
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Is there a good way to relieve static electricity? I get a shock almost every time I get out of my van and close the door.
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Last oil change at the dealer (they're free) I informed the service desk of some knocking and grinding noises that are happening from time to time in the front end.. and fluid in the driveway.. they did the oil and said they saw nothing... so I have to go back next week for my last free oil change and before I made the appointment, I dropped in to see my regular mechanic.. steering rack is leaking on the passenger side and has been for a while as the fluid is down to the minimum line in the reservoir.
Made the appointment with the dealer, informed them about the noise again and fluid on the driveway.. again. Let's see what they say this time.
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Over the past year we have been noticing that the HVAC blower doesn't turn on from time to time. All settings in the control panel seem normal and the fan speed is turned on. Most of the time everything is working normally, sometimes when the car starts the blower isn't working and then starts after a minute of driving. Sometimes I notice the blower isn't working and I turn up the fan speed and after a few clicks it starts working normally for the remainder of the drive. And then sometimes the blower doesn't ever start and I need to turn off and restart the car a few times. When the blower hasn't been working the a/c compressor has been turning on, something in the blower circuit is failing.
There are five possibilities:
The HVAC controller isn't telling the blower to turn on
The power relay isn't always working
There is a wiring or connection problem
The blower motor itself isn't working
The power mosfet is failing.
What needed to be replaced?
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I bought a 2006 Sebring convertible in Florida last winter. The driver's car door made a loud crack sound every time I opened it, so I had it fixed in May and returned up north. I have returned to Florida and after a couple of times opening the door with no problems, the loud crack sound started again. Is there another, connecting part, they should have looked at, or replaced, or does it need yet another replacement part?
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My Town & Country 07 shudders (best word I can use to describe the sensation) between 40-42 MPH. First repair place convinced me I need tie rods, did not resolve problem. Next place said I need struts and new tires but the problem is not solved. Why the van would do this shudder, rumble, whatever - but only at 40? If I rapidly accelerate, like getting on the highway, it doesn't happen.
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I have a 2007 PT Cruiser that's just about to hit the 100,000-mile mark. My problem is when stopped, the car feels like it wants to stall, but only when the AC/Heater/Defrost is on. Also, when it starts to act up, the heater stops working, leaving only the fan to blow air around. It doesn't happen all the time, but enough to make me turn off the heater or whatever I'm using when I come to a red light. It just started doing this and I just wanted to have a rough idea as to what it was before I took it to a mechanic.
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I have 2007 PT Cruiser. The air condition blows hot air. I replaced the compressor, added freon. It was back to blowing hot air within days. I replaced the compressor with another brand new compressor and again after a few days, hot air. I took it to another person today and again, your compressor is leaking freon and it needs to be replaced. I refuse to buy another compressor, what else could be the problem. I live in Texas and need air condition in my cruiser.
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2007 Pacifica with 4.0 will not fill unless you dribble the fuel into the tank. I have cleared the vent hose and know it is clean. Do I need to change the Carbon Filter and Solenoid/Evaporation Valve on the Front of the Carbon Filter?
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Why is my PT Cruiser making a clunking noise up front underneath. Mechanics say the can't find why -- Struts seems ok.....
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07 Chrysler Town & Country with 86K. It's been happening off and on for about a year now. On long highway trips when I'm driving fast (maybe more when it's cold), a whirring noise will build up. It starts quiet and can get really loud. When I get off the highway, the engine noise goes down and the whirring noise is really obvious. I take my foot off the accelerator and the whirring noise continues for about 10 seconds. When I hit the gas again (this time at city speeds, 30 mph or so), the whirring noise instantly comes back and can get high pitched and LOUD, almost like an old police siren.
Last time it happened, I popped the hood to track down the source. It seemed to be coming from the engine block. When you're looking down at it, it's coming from the left side, directly under the drive belt (but not the belt).
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2007 Chrysler Town & Country, 72k. It's happened twice now. On long interstate trips, over 50 miles, the engine starts to make a loud whirring/humming sound. The temp and RPM gauge looks fine. The first time it happened, I checked the dipstick and it was very low (I was overdue for an oil change). I topped it off and it went away for a few weeks but then it came back, after about 100 miles running it 75 mph or so. Then the oil was fine. Pulled off and let it cool for 30 minutes and it was fine but I drove slower. It seems to come on while I'm on the interstate and the engine noise covers it until I get off and then it's very loud. Maybe it seems to get louder when I take my foot off the gas.
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I have a 2007 Touring Edition PT Chrysler Cruiser which was just a few days ago repaired because of damage under the front of the car. Front bumper, ouside and inside grills, all housings and connecdtions in the front area were replaced, including air conditioning mechanisms. Received car on Monday, Friday evening, it wouldn't start. Just made a tet tet tet or clicky kind of noise, no turning over of engine, then there was no noise ... just wouldn't start. Got jump, still wouldn't start until the third cycle that peddle was pressed. Now I'm finding that the longer I let the car idle, the more likely it will be to start after more than two hours of non-use. Had all electrical circuitry checked ... battery's 100 percent, alternator is working fine, but it's still not starting.
Car's gear shift button at top of lever is also sticking when I put it in park to turn the car off. Have to pull the top button up to get the key out. This was happening before car was repaired underneath front. Talked to warranty person, and he felt that maybe the ignition starter switch (if that's what's wrong) and sticking gear shift may have something to do with each other. Since car is actually starting after being run, maybe it's not the starter switch. I'd hate to get it repaired if that's not what it is. Thinking about having a Chrysler dealership do a diagnostic test on it to pinpoint exactly what is going on.
What's happening? Why is my car cutting not starting in selective situations after not having been idled for a couple hours or more?
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I have 2009ls AWD. If I have my radio on, and the GPS announces turning directions, both the radio and the GPS audio are on. This can be very confusing, and dangerous. Is this normal? Is there a fix?
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I am missing something on my 2009 ls460l. I'm trying to turn off my day running lights when driving. Is this full time or am I not looking in the right place.
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my car is a 2007 Chrysler PT Cruiser with over 75K on it. My problem is two fold. First, recently the right rear turn signal light shorts out but only in the morning it seems. Because we've been getting a lot of rain in Nashville and the surrounding area, I suspect the high dewpoint and humidity might play a part here but I think I just need to replace the bulb.The second issue is a little more annoying. For whatever reason, the "air bag warning" light on the driver side console comes on and I cannot figure out why.The third issue is a little more pressing. I noticed during the summer whenever I was idling and had the A/C running, occasionally I would hear the engine act like it was about to stall out, like RPMs had dropped significantly. Now I've noticed it does that when the front defroster is running and winter is coming. What can I do about any of these problems listed here?
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My 08 LS 460 use to have the a/c come on automatically every time. But now, I have to set it manually after each stop or engine turn off. Is it a fuse, sensor or ??
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I am having this issue if it's one. With the fuel level below last quarter, I'm having the time of starting the engine longer (cranking time). I tried several times, leaving the fuel level reach the last quarter, with same result. Reaching that level of fuel the problem appears.
Another issue is that sometimes when the day is hot and the fuel level is not necessary below quarter, the starting time is longer too. It's a Santa Fe AWD 2.4L Automatic.
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