Chrysler :: 1999 - How To Jump Off Only A Battery
Oct 24, 2016
Have a 99 chrysler t&c. The engine seems to be in good shape an starts reliably if the battery is not dead, even at 10f below. The problem is that every once in a while the battery looses the charge for an unknown reason . The car turns over slowly and the solenoid chatters in and out. Happens several times a month; I've started carrying a spare battery with a fair amount of reserve capacity and 4 ga. cables. Even then, it is iffy as to whether the car will start. It cranks slowly and the solenoid may still drop out.
This has happened even over a short period of time such a s grocery shopping.
I researched one of those lithium battery packs that can be inserted into the cigarette lighter. My understanding is that the emergency pack has to recharge the main battery for some time. It makes sense that you don't want to run starting current through the aux. voltage outlet.
Should I be letting the spare battery recharge the main battery for a few or more minutes?
View 4 Replies
Advertisement
I have a '97 Chrysler Cirrus that won't start on it's own without being jump started. Once jump started it runs fine, but then the next time you go to start it the battery is drained again. My highly uneducated guess is that I need to replace the alternator. Am I on the right track? I replaced the battery and the problem persisted.
View 7 Replies
I drive a 2006 Pacifica and lately the engine has been causing me some grief. When I am in park, neutral, or in gear but stopped, the engine will sometimes rev up and my speedometer will jump accordingly sometimes as high as 30 mph. My first thought was that it might be a transmission issue, but I'm not a car mechanic so I don't know much along the lines of what to check or do. The model is an automatic 3.5L
View 1 Replies
If my traction battery has plenty of 'juice' in it, and my 12v battery is dead....is there any way to 'jump' the 12 volt battery with the traction battery to get the car started?
View 19 Replies
My 12V battery is dead- not sure what happened, I usually double press the lock button to turn the headlights off immediately. It seemed odd- the taillights were on, but not the headlights and all interior dome lights were on but dim. I certainly did not get the 'door open' warning beep when I left the car.
The car is completely dead - no power locks, interior lights etc. I tried to jump start it using the fuse box jumper plate, but was not successful. I have heavy duty jumper cables and it seemed like they only contacted the jump plate at one singular point, but that was the best I could do. It was touching, just only one point on the 'teeth' was physically on the front metal part. I waited a full 5 minutes with the donor car revving and tried to start it, but nothing at all. (And yes, I was + red to + red) I tried to adjust the cable on the plate a few times, but could not get any better of a grip. No dashboard light or anything ever came on- the car was just as dead.
What could the problem be? Should I try smaller cables for a better connection with the plate? How long should it generally take while revving the donor car? Or is this something more sinister?
View 19 Replies
I was recently left stranded in a mall parking lot by my 2007 Saturn Ion when it wouldn't start. After getting a jump from roadside assistance, I was told the battery needed to be replaced. I thought nothing of it since its a 2007 and has been driven between Virginia and Pennsylvania for the past four years fairly regularly. After a new battery was installed Sunday afternoon and the car started perfectly and was driven around all day Monday, I was shocked when I was once again left stranded in the parking lot at work Tuesday afternoon, again with a car that wouldn't start at all (there was no "clicking" either). The keys would get stuck in the ignition and I'd have to remove them by pushing the tiny button under the steering wheel. The new battery was tested again at the shop and they found nothing wrong with it and couldn't explain why it wouldn't start at all the previous afternoon but started and ran fine two days prior.
View 4 Replies
After 2 days of not using my Prius V, the 12v battery was dead. I couldn't figure out what I accidentally left on. I jumped it following the instructions in the manual but right after, it went into EV mode and then it required to be jumped again. I finally got the engine revving enough that it stayed on. I had never really listened to the engine rev before, but while revving it sounded higher pitched and tinny as compared to my old 6 cylinder, German car.
Is this higher pitched, tinny, electric sounding revving sound normal?
Is there anything to worry about after jumping the car?
Is there a way to see the charge on the battery? (In my old car if you hit specific buttons when starting you could enter a diagnostic mode where you could see many readings, live the current battery voltage. It would also be great if the tire pressure reading could be accessed this way.)
Also is it possible to use the hybrid battery to jump the car?
View 13 Replies
If locked outside due to dead battery on keyless Touaregs, how do I open the hood to jump start the battery?
View 8 Replies
I have a RX350 2012 model. Recently, in last 3 weeks my battery has discharged 3-4 times, I had to call for a jump start.
I got my battery checked with my dealership and they say the reports from battery are excellent!
I am not sure why is it discharging? I just think there might be a sensor failure which is keeping something running in my car.
View 2 Replies
Multi information display is not working. Also the 12v battery keeps losing power requiring jump starts.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2007 Prius Package Six. I went away on vacation over Christmas and when I got back the battery was dead and the car wouldn't start. No problem as I was easily able to jumpstart it with a portable battery jumpstarter. However I kept having the same problem as apparently the battery wasn't maintaining a charge. So obviously my battery is kaput and needs replacing. I've watched the videos and plan on replacing it myself.
However when I went out this morning to jumpstart the car it wouldn't jumpstart at all. When I hook up my battery jumpstarter nothing happens. Nothing lights up. The car won't start. Even if my 12v battery is completely dead and cannot maintain a charge, shouldn't I still be able to get the car started with a jumpstart? I realize that as soon as I turn it off I will have to jumpstart again. But I can't figure out why a jumpstart won't even get the car fired up.Am I missing something?
View 2 Replies
The 12V battery must have been drained completely over the weekend. None of the lights (interior and exterior) are working. The car won't start even using jumper cable. I guess the 12v battery must have some juice remaining to power up the computer in order to jump start the engine. Am I correct in this assumption?
My Prius is only a little over three years. What is the warranty on the 12v battery? I read that the OE battery is not the best. How long would I expect the OE 12v battery to last?
View 19 Replies
My X keeps needing to be jumped and after being jumped it runs like a top as usual. Took it to Autozone and had them hookup their little portable doohikie and told me the battery is fine but the alternator should be pushing out 14a and it's only pushing 13? Didn't realize 1aI made that big of difference but whatever. I am taking the alternator off in a few minutes and I'm gonna have it bench tested to confirm the output.
Is there a heavier duty alt that I can get? I will be pulling an RV before too long so I'd like to get one that's gonna last. Btw, 2000 excursion limited v10 gas 6.8...
View 12 Replies
My wife left the lights on in the 2001 Camry and completely draining the battery. I tried to jump her but the car would not start (turns over great). Also the electrical system was strange in that the lights would not go off and other electrical items did not function. I disconnected the battery and fully recharged it and put it back on. I noticed that the "ALT" (100A) fusible link was blown and replaced it. Car still will not start (turns over great). The electrical problems appear fixed however the radio does not work. I tried to read the codes on the ODB and got "ERR". I checked all other fuses and they are good. I checked the pin-out voltage on the ODB port and was reading ~11.5V. I am wondering if I missed something like is the ECM bad? I can replace this myself for $150, but if I have it towed to a dealer it will cost me $800. Is there a way I can be sure that the ECM is bad, also are there other things to check that I may have missed. Also, when I turn the key to the "on" position, but do not start the car, the "Check engine" light does not illuminate.
View 5 Replies
My wife's 2010 RX350 wouldn't start this morning. My guess is that the battery drained overnight with the back door ajar. After getting it started with a battery jump the rear hatch would not open by hand, the dash button or the key button. After driving and charging the battery the hatch would open. I'd this to be expected or an indication that perhaps the hatch has a fault?
View 1 Replies
I have a dead battery while trying to jump; my car I blew my alternator fuse. I had a friend try to change the fuse but he was unable to get all of the fuse.How can I get all the fuse out to put a new fuse in?
View 4 Replies
I had left my car for about 30 hours without driving, which I've done before all winter with no issues. Went to start it up yesterday morning to head out and when the key FOB failed to open the door, I knew I was in trouble.
I unlocked the door manually, and put the key in to start it up and the Treg was completely dead and the key wouldn't release from the ignition. After a call to VW roadside assistance, and a jump start, it started right up and I dropped it off at the dealer for them to look at.
The service report says "diag and found low state of charge. charged battery and found passes tests. performed TSB 27-05-01 and cleaned ground point for battery. rechecked OK"
This is a V6 Touareg (there is a similar TSB I understand for V8s).
View 1 Replies
I drove my 2006 Passat 2.0T at night a few days ago. And I forgot to shut off the light. It came out that my battery was drained completely. After doing a jump start under my friend's assistance, I was able to run it again. But my radio remains dead, meaning it won't turn on by all means.
View 7 Replies
I have a 2004 Ford F150 and the battery keeps dying. We do not use the truck a lot and it sometimes sits outside for 2-4 weeks without being used. If it sits that long, it might be completely dead, but starts up easily with a jump and then works fine for a while. The battery is a 650 amp Motocraft w prorated replacement from 37-100 mo. The local Ford dealer has checked it several times in the past 2 yr and said it is fine, and that if the truck sits for a couple of weeks the battery will die. Is that right? I am not a car moron, nor am I an expert, but I am concerned that they are missing a small draw somewhere in the system. Should I be concerned about a draw or is this just something that happens to batteries as they get older?
View 2 Replies
I have a 1993 Chrysler Concorde. I bought a brand new Mopar battery about 4 months ago. I don't use the car very much, but I do start and run it at for at least 15 minutes at least once a week. Today it wouldn't start. I last ran it about a week ago. Is it likely to be a problem with the alternator?
View 8 Replies
A couple of weeks ago, with the car turned off, keys out of the ignition - about every thirteen seconds you could hear the air injection pump coming on, running for a couple of seconds and then turning off. The next day the car battery was dead (no surprise) so we charged it up and took it to the shop (AAA) . They told us that it was a faulty MAP sensor and didn't give us a price quote to fix it, just an invoice/diagnostic bill. But they did unplug the air injection pump so that the battery wouldn't keep getting drained.
We drove the car home and called them the next day to get an estimate for the repair and they said that they misdiagnosed the problem and that it was actually a MAF sensor that was causing the air injection pump to come on when the car was turned off and that it would cost around 500 dollars for the part and labor. Too steep so we decided to hold off on the repair. Understanding our reluctance to go through with the repair, they recommended that we plug the air injection pump back in and still drive the car but to make sure that we unhook the battery at night/when the car would be sitting for many hours without being started.
Here's where it gets a little confusing (or at least for me). I did take AAA's advice and went ahead and plugged the air injection pump back in and for the last couple of weeks it's been fine. No issues with the battery being drained whatsoever/no air injection pump coming on with the car turned off. But today the air injection pump started doing its thing again.The check engine light was on so I hooked my code reader up and pulled the following codes:
PO128 (thermostat coolant temp below regulating temp)
PO491 (secondary air injection system (Bank 1)
PO2431 (secondary air intake system FLW/Perf B1
Does all this point to a faulty MAF sensor?
View 19 Replies
