Chevy - Silverado :: 1999 - Hard Shifting / Clunk After Long Drives
Jul 27, 2013
I have a 1999 chevy silverado 5.3 4wd w/ tow package. I bough it with 30,000 mi. It has always had a hard shifting/clunk after long drives or sometimes short ones that involve a lot of elevation. Oddly, if I stop and shut the car off for a minute or two the hard shifting stops, but eventually starts again. The truck now has 160,000...still with the shifting issue. What is this and with this many miles is it serious?
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My truck was intermittently shifting really hard in first and second . I drained the tranny fluid and installed a new filter and replaced the fluid, I also changed plugs and wires. Tranny fluid is at the top of the hash marks on dipstick when hot and in park. When I come to a complete stop my engine 5.3 litre v8 revs up to about 2000 rpms but the truck takes off slowly like the tranny is slipping it is worse on an incline. If I dont come to a complete stop it shifts fine and takes off with good power. After it shifts to second it shifts normally and drives fine. tranny fluid looks clean and does not smell burnt. Also when driving on the highway if I am going 45 mph and punch the gas it wont rev past 2200 rpms like it is lugging down. when i shift thru gears manually there is no slippage what so ever and when in park engine revs to 6000 rpms no problem. Also tranny is a 4l60e
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2006 chevy 4.3 v6 5 speed manual trans. Very hard to shift into and out of gear , the truck has about 80,000 miles on it , its had the new trans fluid gm replaced for smoother shifting. If you hold the clutch pedal down on the floor hard it works fine. It all most like the pedal it screwed up. The pedal ass is plastic junk, I am thinking the pedal is bended. The clutch does not slip and I tried bleeding the clutch master cylinder and there are no leaks anywhere !
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I have a 2001 Chevy half ton 4wd. It has the 5.3L, 4L60E transmission, and a 246 transfer. I am having problems with shifting. if I out the truck in drive, the trans will wind out in 1st gear and not shift. I then pull it down to 2nd and it will shift. When it comes time for third gear, it will not shift at all. It just simply revs until it catches up with the speed at which the truck is rolling. I thought it was a bad tranny as I smoked one and replaced it with a used one so we rebuilt the tranny and it still does the exact same thing. Also the speedo is not working but the odometer is on. Don't know if its registering anything but its on. I have also checked every single fuse and maxi fuse in the engine compartment and the drivers side panel.
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I have been trying to self diagnose an issue with my pick up for a while now. I have an 01 Silverado 2500HD 6.0 that shifts really hard into all gears. I was told it was the transmission going out, so we replaced the transmission with a rebuilt one and it did nothing for the shifting issues. We then had the transfer case rebuilt which also did nothing for our problems. My father who has some general mechanic knowledge is certain that the free floating rear end is not turning with the correct timing for the transmission shifting. No check engine lights come on at all during these issues. When I took it to a mechanic he told me I needed a new transmission and blew me off when I told him it was just replaced.
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When parked and you shift between P to D or R loud engagement of transmission. Thought it was u joints, buddy says both look good/sound good when engaging P D R. Also shifts hard between 1-2-3 intermittently. I did read that it could be the TCC regulator valve?
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I have a '99 Silverado 1500 with a 4.3L V-6 amd 188,000. It picked up a problem recently that's been stumping me. Occassionally, and for no reason I can sort out, it starts to shimmy badly. This behavior has come about at several speeds. Sometimes just cruising down the road at 35-45 it starts to shimmy and wobble and the steering wheel shakes as if a wheel is horribly out of balance. Other times this occurs at highway speeds - it's noticeable and alarming. The problem can last a long while; othertimes the symptoms disappear in a few seconds. The first time it happened I thought I had a flat or was about to lose a wheel - this is not a subtle problem.
I've checked several things and came up empty. No delamination in the tires and nothing out of round, but just to be sure I had the wheels balanced and rotated - the balance was spot on when checked. Alignment is good. Did those things, but the symptoms continued. The vehicle is high mileage so I put in on the lift and checked the front-end. The steering rack has a very slight amount of play and the hub bearings have a very small amount of play too - I'll get after those, but they're not causing this intermittent problem. Everything else is tight. Shocks are fine, brakes are fine, I checked the rear-end as well - everything is straight and true. Air pressure is set correctly. I checked the driveshaft for runout and play - that's not the problem. The truck has never been in an accident and nothing seems misaligned.
The truck drives like a new truck most of the time, then suddenly, on a smooth road, it starts wobbling around. I'm starting to believe the problem might lie under the hood. I had a problem some time back with misfiring and the truck bucking - this turned out to be a worn distributor. A new distributor, rotor and wiring solved that problem. But these symptoms are not similar - this is not a bucking problem; the entire vehicle starts to shimmy and wobble with the steering wheel vibrating back and forth. It's hard to tell, but I cannot detect any misfiring or rough running in the engine when these symptoms appear and I have no 'check engine' warnings.
Are there any engine/transmission/drivetrain related issues that could cause intermittent symptoms that feel like an out of balance condition? A few other facts:- I have noticed the truck is a little down on power lately- The fuel economy has dropped off - I used to do around 20, now I'm down to 16mph highway- (Very) slightly rough idle
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I have a 00 impala w 4t65e tranny I believe I have a p1811 code of hard and long shifting. I also need both cv axles replaced. If i replace the axles and have then dropped. Is it possible with the pcs going out, i would be able to drive 600 miles both way to a family thing without getting stranded.
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Have had the following happen 3 times to me during longer (1-2 hrs) drives where I'm driving straight through, no stops, highway driving.
Running along fine when out of the blue, the A/C temp remains strong and cold, but the airflow drops dramatically to the equivalent of 1 or 2 bars on the fan dial. However, the fan dial remains at 5,6 or higher. Upping the fan dial does little to increase the speed of airflow. Adjusting the air source intake buttons changes nothing.
Only thing to correct this is to stop the car and let it sit, off, for about 20-30 minutes, or more. Re-start the car and it's all back to normal.
Searched the forums and can't find anything on Elantra, altho some Tuscon's seem to have had similar issue on older models, although their descriptions were more dramatic, w/the A/C going out w/in 20-30 minutes.
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1997 Chevrolet Silverado 4x4 z71 transmission problems. 5 months ago I had it serviced and A/B shift solenoids changed along with filter and fluid. Now check engine is back on with P1860 code truck also has started shifting more firmly into second and at 65mph it gives a hard jerk.
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Ok here is my problem i have a 99 Chevy Silverado LS 1500 5.3L. and i am having problems with egr codes coming up. I have been getting the P0405 EGR Sensor low circuit, i was told that my EGR was bad so i replaced it. ran fine for around 1-2 months and than the code came back on, talked with the guys where i bought it and they said that it could of been a faulty EGR so they replaced it. K so thats 2. 1-2 months down the road again same thing code pops up, talked with them replaced it again, number 3 so it did it again this time when i talked to them again they talked me in on getting the one better than the one i was using before and to buy a gasket with a screen. so thats #4. now today the code pops up again. This time codes P0405 came up and also P0404. oh and i should mention that i replaced the wiring plug also.
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I just recently bought a 95 F150 with a 351. The truck has high mileage, about 190k, and I am not sure how long the transmission has left. It rides smooth down the road, but when I put the truck into reverse it hesitates for a moment then makes a loud clunking sound(as if a door is being slammed) and then jerks into gear. The reverse works great at the moment though. Should I be worried, is there anything I can do to fix this?
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I have a base model 2009 Corolla and I find that on long drives (anything over an hour) the seats become incredibly uncomfortable. I have developed back pain I did not have before I bought the car. My wife drives an 05 corolla and I have no problems with it (even on 5 hour drives) so I can only assume that Toyota cheap out on the newer generation's seats. I have tried many different cushions, lumbar supports, and seat heaters, but none of them work all that well. Adjusting the seating position does not work either. I installed cruise control and while that worked a bit, it was no solution.
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I have a rubbing sound that seems to be coming from the steering column when turning. Don't hear it outside of cab just in the inside.
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Noticed after long trips of a couple hours, the Prius rattles and creaks even when cruising in a parking lot at 5mph. I think it's kinda funny. That is, unless it doesn't happen to anyone else and there's actually something wrong with my car.
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This is one of the strangest things I have ever encountered. when i start my car the climate control system works perfectly and it never has any issues driving around town. however for the past year or so every time i take a long drive over an hour and a half the force of the air coming out of the vents starts to diminish to the point where the only circulation i am getting is from the outside vent.
The strange thing is i can hear the fan blowing behind the dashboard and when i hold my hand to the vent the air coming out if very cold / hot depending on where i set the dial so it doesn't appear to be an issue with the AC or heater core .
I am thinking there might be some type of obstruction but that doesn't explain why the symptoms occur like clockwork on long drives.
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I have a 98 chevy truck that won't start. After it sits. It was starting after cycling the key a few times. But now it won't start. Could it be the pump? I hear it running.
Or could it be the regulator? It was running good after it started. No check engine light, no gas smell, and no rough idle.
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The cruise control on my 2002 Chevy 1/2 ton Silverado doesn't work. Went to boneyard and bought a module but it didn't fix my issue. Borrowed a multimeter and tested the cruise control module plugin. The only pin that came up with a incorrect reading was the first brake test. It's suppose to have 12 volts with brake pedal up but showed about 30, so I changed the brake light switch. Still no cruise control.
Since I have a high reading on the brake pin, do you think I have a wire issue there or would my problem be in the multi switch wires by the steering wheel?
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I have a 92 chevy truck with a 350 engine that came out of a 93 chevy my problem is my module in the distributor keeps going bad when i spoke with the previous owner of the motor he told me that he had the same problem and advised me to change the distributor. So I took my distributor out of the original motor and put in but the problem still exist, also I have noticed that I have nearly twice the exhaust coming from the drivers side tail pipe as I do the passengers side.
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On my 1999 Chevy Silverado Z71, a gurgling water sound is present everytime I accelerate. Are there any other Chevy owners that have had this same problem? If so, how was it resolved?
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The issue I'm having is the A/C. When I got the truck the A/C was completely freezing. Recently however, the compressor was having issues not engaging and I fixed that by simply plugging the cord to the accumulator thing. . Now the compressor engages, but is not cooling really at all. It is an old truck and the compressor is a little worn from what I see maybe 2mm space when not engaged. I checked the levels of freon/coolant with a gauge and the amount is perfectly fine. Plus there seems to be no leaks.
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