Chevy - Silverado :: 1998 - Lose Speed And Cannot Accelerate When Driving Down The Road
Aug 13, 2013
I have a 98 Silverado, 2wd, 5 liter V-8, 180,000 miles. Occasionally, my truck will lose power. Driving down the road I lose speed and cannot accelerate. When I depress the accelerator the motor does nothing. This happens at any speed from take off to highway speeds. When it begins to happen I lose speed slowly for maybe 30 seconds then the service engine light comes on and the problem gets much worse. Sometimes it will sound like it's back firing but the sound is muffled. This seems to happen more often in damp weather but it can happen in dry weather too. And it doesn't always happen in damp weather. It happens in the morning or afternoon. Auto Zone put their tester on it and a code comes back for O2 sensor but the guy didn't think that would cause the trouble I'm having.
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On my 1999 Chevy Silverado Z71, a gurgling water sound is present everytime I accelerate. Are there any other Chevy owners that have had this same problem? If so, how was it resolved?
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I am trying to get some advice on a diagnosis for a transmission problem i'm experiencing with my vehicle? It's a manual transmission and the sound i am hearing is when i shift gears is a loud whirling grinding sound. It's really loud in 2nd 3rd and 5th and doesn't stop.
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I have '98 Transport Montana and I took it on a trip last weekend on the expressway. I would be doing 70 MPH and approach a hill and start depressing the accelerator to maintain my speed and I could feel a chugging. Also, I could hear the engine seem to make a change in its sound coincident with the chugging. The RPMs at this point were around 2K. It's a 3.4 and all of the normal stuff has been maintained properly (spark plugs, filters, etc.).
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Search of AF did not turn up any results. My 02 Silverado 4x4 Crew Cab 6.0 has begun to make a clicking noise when I am driving at low speed, and making any kind of turn to the right. This is in 2 wheel drive. No noise when driving straight. If I am driving through the neighborhood , (say, 20-25 mph), and the road curves gently to the right, I can hear an occasional/intermittent click noise, which sounds like it is coming from the LF wheel. It might give a single click every half second or so, sometimes 2 or 3 quick clicks, then silent for a second or 2, then a few more. If it is more heavily loaded, such as sharper turn, or more speed while turning, it is significantly worse, (more frequent clicks, almost constant).
Likewise, if I am at low speed, and turning more sharply, (such as a 90* right turn at an intersection, from a stop), it is almost constant repeat clicking until the wheel is straightened out. I am guessing it is possibly a u-joint on the left side half-shaft (or whatever it is called), that connects the transfer case to the LF hub? Almost sounds like needle bearings beginning to fail, is the best way I can think of to describe the sound. Even though I am in 2wd, the hubs do not unlock, so the front axles are always turning.
Hoping it is not front hub bearing going bad. I just got reassigned back to Dallas, and I will be driving the truck 800 miles to get there this weekend. I have maintained the truck very well, with the exception of having never even really looked at the front driveline components. (That ignorance could be haunting me now, or maybe just stuff that has worn out).
I only use the 4 wheel drive about 6-10 times per year, usually only for a mile or so to get to maintained roads. Never in 4x4 on dry roads, I switch back to 2WD as soon as possible.
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I have been reading about some folks are having those vibration at certain speeds... Recently I also started noticing some strange vibrations... It happens when I am accelrating and driving on curved road at speed 100KM and up... I still cannot detect the source of these vibration as sometime it feels from steeing column or front suspension frame... All I can say its really annoying. Also, mechtronics valve body soon will be replaced as it is driving my DSG really insane.
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I just have my 2013 Prius C3 for two months and few days back I noticed that the Slip Indicator light blink a few time when I went through pot hole/uneven road (low speed, ~20mph). In the same time, I can hear as if there is a piece of metal sheet somewhere in the car vibrated. Is this normal?
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My 2010 Prius version 9.1 NAV appears to starting lose information. The car is 10 months old. About a month ago I began to increasingly get the message that there were some sections of the route ahead that did not have route information. On the map, the blue route line is missing for these sections.
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I have an RX 450H and noticed that there is a squeaking sound coming from the dashboard. I looked at other posts where people were experiencing similar issues and noticed one post where someone had a GS 450H and fixed this issue by adding felt between the dashboard and the windscreen.
I would like to know whether this method works 100% and whether I can apply this method to the RX 450H. The noise becomes worse when it is cold and especially when the car is being driven over rough road surfaces and speed bumps.
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I have a 98 chevy truck that won't start. After it sits. It was starting after cycling the key a few times. But now it won't start. Could it be the pump? I hear it running.
Or could it be the regulator? It was running good after it started. No check engine light, no gas smell, and no rough idle.
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The cruise control on my 2002 Chevy 1/2 ton Silverado doesn't work. Went to boneyard and bought a module but it didn't fix my issue. Borrowed a multimeter and tested the cruise control module plugin. The only pin that came up with a incorrect reading was the first brake test. It's suppose to have 12 volts with brake pedal up but showed about 30, so I changed the brake light switch. Still no cruise control.
Since I have a high reading on the brake pin, do you think I have a wire issue there or would my problem be in the multi switch wires by the steering wheel?
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I have a 92 chevy truck with a 350 engine that came out of a 93 chevy my problem is my module in the distributor keeps going bad when i spoke with the previous owner of the motor he told me that he had the same problem and advised me to change the distributor. So I took my distributor out of the original motor and put in but the problem still exist, also I have noticed that I have nearly twice the exhaust coming from the drivers side tail pipe as I do the passengers side.
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The issue I'm having is the A/C. When I got the truck the A/C was completely freezing. Recently however, the compressor was having issues not engaging and I fixed that by simply plugging the cord to the accumulator thing. . Now the compressor engages, but is not cooling really at all. It is an old truck and the compressor is a little worn from what I see maybe 2mm space when not engaged. I checked the levels of freon/coolant with a gauge and the amount is perfectly fine. Plus there seems to be no leaks.
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I have a 1993 Chevy Silverado, 350, 2WD. It has a 4L60E transmission. I just started having a problem shifting from 1st to 2nd. When accelerating the RPM's go way up and won't shift until I let off the throttle. Then it shifts into all other gears normally.
If I accelerate slowly. it will shift into 2nd at about 16 MPH. It will then shift into all other gears normally. I have replaced the Throttle Position Sensor, flushed the transmission and replaced the filter and fluid. This made know change in performance.
I am now suspecting that it might be the 1-2 shift solenoid. The check engine light is not on and everything else works fine.
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I have a 98 Chevy truck with a 4L60E. It has no second gear. I was sitting in park for about 10 minutes with the engine running, then put it in drive and it never shifted into second. It felt like it went straight to 3rd. I played with it manually until I figured out I had reverse, 1st, 3rd, 4th and torque converter lockup, just no second gear. My acceleration rate was medium and when I reach about 27-28 mph it would shift from 1st into 3rd. It has 230K on it so I rebuilt it with all the typical parts - frictions, steels, band, sun shell etc., still no second. I then pulled the pan back off and replaced the spacer plate and put in a shift kit. While I had it down I put a corvette servo in and did an air check. It worked fine. I could feel the band tighten.
Both the 1-2 and 2-3 solenoids checked good at 23 ohms. I swapped their positions to see if it would make a difference. I also checked to make sure the 1-2 accumulator piston wasn't stuck in its bore, the spring was new from the shift kit. It was fine. Put it back together...still no second gear. When I originally pulled the pan off for the rebuild, the pan was free of any debris and was very clean. I then drove it a couple of miles to a local transmission shop. They put their scan tool on it and drove it around the block. There were no codes and the ECM was calling for second gear. It doesn't sound mechanical since almost all the parts have been replaced, rebuilt or inspected that affect the 1-2 shift. It sounds electrical. Is there anything I have missed?
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I have a 1993 Chevy Silverado rwd automatic 350 5.7. It died on me on the way to work this morning. It slowly lost power and acceleration. The lights and radio all worked. When I tried to restart, it tried to start but then just cranked like it had no fuel or spark.
I had it towed home and checked the following things. I removed the fuel filter, it is clear. I verified that the fuel pump was working by turn the key to the on position while the filter was off. Good stream of fuel. I verified that there was fuel to the TBI. Good spray while cranking. I verified that there was spark by pulling a plug out, connecting to the wire and cranking the engine. Spark seemed weak but there was spark. The front plugs were dry, but the rear plugs, especially #8 was very wet. I verified the timing by pulling the #1 plug, removing the distributor cap and checked the rotor position. I bumped the engine to get the #1 piston to the top of the cylinder and the rotor was point directly at the #1 plug wire. The cap, rotor, plugs and wires are only 1 month old.
I also tried to check the ignition coil by disconnecting the coil wire from coil, and slid the boot back to expose the contact. I held it just of the coil while the engine was cranked, but did not actually see a spark at the coil. I did not hear any arcing. I pulled another plug and checked for spark. Again i had spark. Just seems weak to me. I am on my way to the auto parts store to get a new coil.
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I picked up a very clean 2008 Silverado 2500 HD. W/60K miles. The vehicle has been very well cared for as I know the orignal owner. I have zero complaints with the truck other than an annoying front end clunking. Its very reminiscent to the intermediate shaft issues of my 2003 2500HD.
Basically when hitting very small road imperfections, I can feel/hear a clunking in the front suspension. I can also duplicate the issue by rocking the truck left to right with the steering wheel while going 20-30MPH. I figured, stabilizer links. I put the truck up in the air, & can't find a thing wrong. Links are tight as well as the ball joints & tie rod ends. Were these trucks know for a common clunk like this.
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My dad's 1996 Chevy Silverado will not shift into hi gear. The truck starts up fine and he can drive it but for some reason it won't shift into hi gear. Him and I are clueless as to why it won't. He has a 1996 Chevy Silverado, 6.5 liter V-8 automatic transmission, and its a diesel. We really want to fix the truck ourselves so we are trying to avoid taking it to a shop.
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I have a 1999 Chevy Silverado 1500 extended cab. Two nights in less than a week, my horn has went off in alarm mode. Is there another reason for this other than an attempted jimmying of the lock? I live in a decent neighborhood with lots of pole lighting. Someone told me the keyfob battery was dying but I don't have the fob.
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I have a '99 Silverado 1500 with a 4.3L V-6 amd 188,000. It picked up a problem recently that's been stumping me. Occassionally, and for no reason I can sort out, it starts to shimmy badly. This behavior has come about at several speeds. Sometimes just cruising down the road at 35-45 it starts to shimmy and wobble and the steering wheel shakes as if a wheel is horribly out of balance. Other times this occurs at highway speeds - it's noticeable and alarming. The problem can last a long while; othertimes the symptoms disappear in a few seconds. The first time it happened I thought I had a flat or was about to lose a wheel - this is not a subtle problem.
I've checked several things and came up empty. No delamination in the tires and nothing out of round, but just to be sure I had the wheels balanced and rotated - the balance was spot on when checked. Alignment is good. Did those things, but the symptoms continued. The vehicle is high mileage so I put in on the lift and checked the front-end. The steering rack has a very slight amount of play and the hub bearings have a very small amount of play too - I'll get after those, but they're not causing this intermittent problem. Everything else is tight. Shocks are fine, brakes are fine, I checked the rear-end as well - everything is straight and true. Air pressure is set correctly. I checked the driveshaft for runout and play - that's not the problem. The truck has never been in an accident and nothing seems misaligned.
The truck drives like a new truck most of the time, then suddenly, on a smooth road, it starts wobbling around. I'm starting to believe the problem might lie under the hood. I had a problem some time back with misfiring and the truck bucking - this turned out to be a worn distributor. A new distributor, rotor and wiring solved that problem. But these symptoms are not similar - this is not a bucking problem; the entire vehicle starts to shimmy and wobble with the steering wheel vibrating back and forth. It's hard to tell, but I cannot detect any misfiring or rough running in the engine when these symptoms appear and I have no 'check engine' warnings.
Are there any engine/transmission/drivetrain related issues that could cause intermittent symptoms that feel like an out of balance condition? A few other facts:- I have noticed the truck is a little down on power lately- The fuel economy has dropped off - I used to do around 20, now I'm down to 16mph highway- (Very) slightly rough idle
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A few days ago my 98 C1500 started having what I can only imagine is some type of torque converter issue. While driving at a constant speed the RPM will surge by about 500-600. This surge does not coincide with any type of acceleration, it's more like the converter is letting go and the RPM's just rise and fall back down. The fluctuations also seem to stop after about 15 minutes of normal driving. I have had no real noticeable transmission issues. At first i assumed it was my tranny fluid just breaking down so to get me home I used a bottle of Lucas.
The bottle seemed to do the trick for only a couple of days and now the problem is back...no better, no worse. The only difference I have noticed is that before the addition of the Lucas my fluid looked perfect and now it seems there is a bit of varnish. No smell, nothing seems burnt, just a little dirty. I haven't changed the tranny fluid for about 70k and the truck now has roughly 160K on it. My concern is that if I do change it the transmission will crap completely and I'll be on the hook for a rebuild.
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