I have a 2005 Chevy Colorado with blown front shocks. I have Walker Evans shocks for an Arctic Fox utv that are the same size as my current shocks. I'm wondering if I can use those temporarily for daily driving until I can afford replacement shocks. Are utv shocks interchangeable with regular shocks if you have the proper springs?
View 2 RepliesI have an 05 chevy colorado and I cant seem to get the tailgate to open. When you pull the handle to open it, you feel a slight click like you would if it would open but it wont budge. Ive tried pushing into it and pulling, I've had someone sit in the bed and push while i pulled and nothing is working.
View 4 RepliesI used a OBD scan tool and all it told me was my idle air control system rpm is lower than expected and my evaporative system has a high purge flow. What this means, can I fix it or do I have to send it to a shop. Also when idling the short term fuel trim 1 is at -3% whatever that means.
View 16 RepliesI purchased a 2005 chevy colorado today, and when I got home I found out that the power windows on the passenger side don't work, I can hear a clicking sound coming from the front and rear doors when I press the buttons, but the windows don't move.
View 19 RepliesI have an '05 Chevy Colorado and the front turn signals don't work and no flashers. I've tried replacing bulbs and checked the fuses. Looking for info what would work.
View 3 RepliesWhy do I get an electrical shock when I touch my 2005 Escape? It's not like I drag my feet on a carpet prior to touching it. I had same issue on an other vehicle. It is very annoying - what should I do?
View 7 RepliesLong story: I have a 2005 Chevy Malibu base. About more than a month ago I was driving home from work my car stalled about 3 times. I was able to finally get home I checked the oil and to my shock there was none. I quickly put some in and my car started just fine didn't stall again. I drove it the next day nothing. Then the day after that I drove it to Walmart on the way back it stalled like 7 times and after that last time it wouldn't turn on. I got it towed to a shop where my car remained for over a month. The crank position sensor was replaced, the battery, and the ignition switch. I was told it was fixed, picked it up drove it to a town 30 minutes away it was fine, then drove it back it started stalling every 5 minutes.
Managed to take it back to the shop, they couldn't figure out why it was shutting off so they got a second opinion at a Chevy dealership nearby and they replaced the ignition control module. I picked up my car drove it around for awhile and the check engine light came on I was near pepboys they checked the code which said I needed to get the catalytic converter check/replaced. So I drove my car home. Next day drove it all day it stayed on, thought my problem was solved. Then that evening turned it on and within a few minutes the engine shut off and now it won't start at all. The mechanics that I took it to obviously don't know what the issue is nor do the mechanics at Chevy. It is not the fuel pump that's one things that can be crossed out. Or is my car done and should be junked?
i have a 2005 chevy malibu classic. a few months ago it started sputtering when we would try to crank it and would take several tries before it would run, then it stopped. So far we have replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, idle air control valve and crankshaft sensor, and it still wont stay running when you try to give it the gas, it dies....
View 4 RepliesRecently the 'check engine' light went on in my 2005 Chevy Cavalier. since I couldn't afford the typical diagnosis charge, I went somewhere where they code it at no cost. They said it was the gas cap, so I went to a dealer & bought one. (They also turned the light off for me.) Problem is now the light is back on. While I was at the dealer, the mechanic said it will have to be properly checked to pass inspection; apparently it has something to do w/ emissions. Is that true?
View 2 RepliesMy husband replaced the brakes on my 2005 suburban and they are squealing constantly now. He says it's normal and will go away as I drive it, I've only done about 3 miles so far but no better. So keep driving or something isn't right? For what it's worth he grew up in his dad's auto shop and has restored some cars so not a pro but definitely competent and he swears they are installed correctly.
View 16 RepliesCar Stats: 2005 Chevy Malibu, Automatic
Just recently while driving my car at a normal speed...(Like 55mph wanted to speed up gradually to 60mph) ..I will push the accelerator and my car wont go any faster. It will act like it is switching to passing gear and then the engine will rev up, the car will lurch forward and then it will finally take off. The RPM's also will increase and then suddenly drop back down to normal.
Also I think this is related to the problem. .... but... when I put the car in the low gear to where I can manually shift it to first second and third. It used to automatically be in the 1st gear... but now it will show up in the third gear and you cannot shift into any other gear.
I have a 2005 Chevy Aveo. The interior lights and radio will not power on. It used to work and we started having electrical problems with the car. Sometimes the air conditioner won't come on but sometimes when it stops working and you hit a bump it will turn on. I have checked the fuses and I am pretty sure that they are not blown. The metal thing inside of the fuse for the radio is still connected. We did have to put a new battery in it a few months ago but I'm pretty sure we had problems before that. If the problem is a short wire how would I fix that?
View 2 RepliesOk so I recently started noticing my car was overheating and the sensor would go off saying coolant temp hot. So I started by adding coolant that didn't work. I than replaced the thermostat didn't change. I saw the water pump was leaking and changed that but before I did I was driving it home one night and the engine stopped and I barely had control of the car. Now the water pump is new and I don't know what the problem is. I think it's the head gasket ???
View 6 RepliesThe locks on my 2005 Chevy cobalt sound like they are trying to lock and unlock when the car is running. The locks themselves don't move while this is happening. It has been to the dealer twice and no luck. The first time it went in, they said the left and right lock switches were shorted so they replaced them. The second time it went in they said that the ground wires were corroded and they fixed that problem. The car drove fine for a few days, now the same problem is occurring.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 chevy malibu maxx. The front driver side brake caliper does not retract unless i open the bleeder screw. if I leave it overnight it will retract until i have to use it a couple times then ill have to open the bleeder screw. I've been told if the piston retracts when i open the bleeder then the caliper is OK. What i should look for? (It does have ABS).
View 2 RepliesAs I got to work today, I took the off-ramp particularly enthusiastically. At the very end of the ramp, I got a huge red warning on my MFI saying 'Fuel Pressure Low, Engine off'. Error message was on for maybe 2 seconds. I checked my tach, no dip below 2k, throttle response was normal. Car has run fine after that.
My hypothesis of this happening: I was low on fuel. Indicated range was 40 miles. When I took that corner hard, gas must have sloshed around in the tank in a way that the fuel pump didnt 'find' any gas for a couple seconds - causing the error. As the fuel settled in the tank, got back to normal.
I have a 04 R32 approaching 140,000 mi. The EPC came on on two separate occasions on the freeway going about 70-80 MPH, the vehicle lost power for a split second with the EPC light on. After that split second, the vehicle regain power and act normal again. I've been having minor problem with different thing and not sure if it's all related. I am high idling at 1,100 RPM in traffic and hard to start the vehicle from time to time (I noticed especially when the gas tank is approaching the red zone). Recently, the mechanic cleaned the throttle body real good and minimized the high idle problem.
View 4 RepliesFor the past few weeks I have had a bizarre issue with my 2010 Sonata GLS. If you unlock all doors (press the FOB unlock button twice), get in, close the door and then turn the key and attempt to start the car, all power is lost to the the interior and with no lights, radio etc. The car is literally dead and won't start. If I open the drivers side door and then close it again, all power comes back and I can start the car. All radio stored stations are lost, the clock is reset and usually the trip odometer is reset too. Other times, if I just press the FOB unlock once to unlock just the drivers side door, the issue does not apparently seem to happen. What the issue may be?
View 3 RepliesI am driving to work as i do almost everyday but somethin weird happened when i got there... usually i turn my car off when I go into work as everyone does but i guess my car decided it still wanted to run today. I took my key out of the ignition but my car kept running. Luckily I filled up yesterday. I tried pushing the key in and taking it back out a couple times but it just stayed on. With my key out an the car running my MFD would say the steering column lock message but the steering wasn't locked an with the key in the message went away and steering was still free.
So I called my flight to let him know whats going on, since I was already in the parking lot he and a few others come to look and laugh and blame it on the fact its german or blame it on the features they want but dont have. [IMG] [URL] ..... but i the end it had something to do with the remote wire going to my amp?? I am not sure how but my flight chief thought to unplug it and my car just shut off. I am still wondering how a remote wire to my amp could keep my car running without the key. I've had the stereo system in over a year and its never done this..
So over the past couple months when driving on the highway I would notice that sometimes my car would lose all power and slowly coast to a stop, but then the power comes back on and I'm off after a few seconds. It happened again today and I notice when I do hit the gas when it decides not to accelerate my boost gauge shows that there is vacuum building up in the engine. It just doesn't make sense to me. Would my car be getting thrown into a limp mode? Or is it something to do with fueling?
View 4 Replies2002 Jetta 1.8t, auto tranny, 90K miles. Recently took it in and had all coilpacks replaced under VW's recall.
Sometimes when it's been sitting out in cool air for a long time (in Texas summers, this is nights-only), about 3 miles in it suddenly starts misfiring- BAD. Check Engine light comes on. Lasts about 30 sec, then goes away and doesn't come back for the rest of the drive. WTF?? I can't make it happen on queue.
I heard about the all-too-common grounding problem on the engine harness. I did find a significant resistance between the ring terminal on the head and the battery (-). I tied the 3 ground posts under the battery together with 12ga wire and crimped terminals, and ran another 12 ga wire up to the engine block ground right under the ring terminal that grounds the coils, which should have shorted past any weak spot on the harness. PROBLEM STILL OCCURS!
Scans showed:
17766 Cylinder 2 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit
16682 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
16684 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
17658 Low Fuel light (only ~3 miles after lighting the Low Fuel warning, I don't think the fuel pump's running dry just yet here)
Seems to focus on Coil 2. But last time I did this I got these errors for Coil 3 and swapped it for a new replacement I had in the trunk in case one went out unexpected. Well now it just says Cylinder 2. Just did it again tonight after clearing codes and got these same Cylinder 2 errors again.
Actually I started to wonder... I've been running the tank close to the "low fuel" light to check my actual mpg usage (no display for it in my MK IV), but fill back up a few miles after it lights. I can think of a couple of spots on the late-night drive back that I see this, one's after a hill which might cause a fuel pump to run dry temporarily, but another's a light downhill then up a light offramp. I don't think the tank's been low every time this happened but I'm not sure. Well, a couple of times it's been mostly level in the parking lot anyhow and misfired a bit right off the bat when starting, so probably not.
Wouldn't there be some sort of "low fuel pressure" code if fuel starvation was actually the issue going on? Hmm, I went looking and I'm not sure there is one for a MkIV, there's errors for fuel trim but I don't think you get those in short-term. This is kinda scary how it just goes out while driving, and I can't do much to reproduce it or test out fixes.
So looking further, other people report what may be intermittent fuel pump issues when the tank goes low. But could that result in "Cylinder 2 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit"? I mean the coils will still electrically read as firing. Of course if the system gets all glitch-y, the software may be making a mistake somewhere and report this wrongly.