Chevy - Caprice :: 1989 Transmission Slips Completely In All The Forward Gears
Dec 24, 2013
Last night transmission in my beloved '89 Caprice Wagon let go, it slips completely in all the forward gears. I was coming down a long hill using low gear for several minutes and when I put it back into OD at the bottom it seemed to skip a little but it was still making power well enough. I got off the freeway at my exit and stopped at a red light, when the light changed I was revving high but barely creeping through the intersection. I pulled over and this is what I figured out:-All the forward gears make essentially no power any more.-Reverse seems to work normally.-The fluid is at a normal level and not discolored or burnt smelling.
I don't know if this is related or just an amazing coincidence but the water pump also seems to have blown the gasket at the same time. I must have just happened within a few minutes of me pulling over because there was still a ton of coolant left and the temp was still in the normal range. I don't see how they're related but, like I said, the timing is too coincidental. Earlier this week but just a few miles ago I also topped the power steering fluid and oil.
It's a 200-R4 transmission, is it toast? Why does reverse work but all the forward gears slip completely? Is the water pump just a red herring? I did drive the rest of the way home in reverse.
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My '87 Chevy S-10 transmission slips like mad in forward gears and I can't go everywhere in reverse. The truck is gaaged in southern Virginia about 60 miles from my home and is used on some country property. The local transmission shop wants $1600 to rebuild the trans. He says he used sturdier parts than the replacement GM parts. I'd like to fix the truck because it comes in handy and was my dad's old mode of transportation around the Va. countryside, so it has sentimental value.
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2006 f150 4x4 4R75E trans slipping in forward gears, reverse is ok. I dropped pan and it was clean. I dropped valve body and found OD servo shaft clip broken, the large snapring was I fine and in place. It allowed the inner shaft to float up and down. Would this cause my forward gears to slip or do I have a bigger problem?
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I am having an issue with my transmission. Mine will not accelerate when in reverse, at all. When I take off in overdrive, the car revs up really high until about 30mph and then finally shifts and seems to drive normal at about 45-65mph,after that the car revs really high up to about 70mph (then i slow down). No problems with gear 1 and 2.
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My transmission had no slipping was running fine . Oil level was ok , recently added 1/2 quart , cause it has some small leaks. I go to drive away other day and none of the drive gears or reverse would engage. Mechanic thinks transmission locked up . Kind of hard to condemn my old baby considering it was running fine .
Would the TCC solenoid do this or the ECU ? I recently reinstalled the bar going to starter that was disconnected for 5+ years because i was having slow crank issues. This transmission problem occurred 2 days later. I am thinking it might have made the ECU unit go bad , since the starter had not a good ground for so long ?
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Recently purchased a flooded 2013 VW Passat TDI and am a newbie. Flushed trans and did a fluid change. Transmission slips on hard acceleration in 2nd and 4th gears and under minimal pull in 6th gear. I then took it to dealership and they told me there was an active code for intermittent low pressure and told me I needed a new mechatronic and that fluid was still somewhat milky. After telling them it was a flood vehicle they told me I needed a new transmission.
Brought it home and drained fluid again and replaced the K-2 solenoid, refilled fluid and test drove. Still slipping the same. Pulled trans today to look at K-2 clutch pack and found what appears to be three pieces of rubber seal (approx 1/64 thick, 1/16 wide, and when putting pieces together appears to be 1 1/2 inside dia. I think one small piece is still missing. Arrived at the 1 1/2" ID by the curvature of remaining pieces) inside the inner hub. I have inspected most of the pieces and cannot come up with where these have come from. I believe they have to be from somewhere that seals up the K-2 piston.
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My 2001 Corolla S has 215,000 miles on it. I bought it used when it had 192,000 miles on it. The transmission slightly slips gears, rear brakes need changed, and a couple sway bar links. I can get the sway bar links replaced soon along with the brakes. The car has been very reliable since I've had it. I've gotten the oil changed routinely and added fuel injection about every 10,000 miles. I do not drive the car aggressively, and it hardly ever goes over 3,000 rpm.
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My son's 96 camry 4-cyl developed a transmission problem. It slips in the forward gears. Reverse works find. At start, the first gear slips allot but eventually moves the car. It also slips between gears. The transmission fluid has a burnt smell and a dark color. The problem started about 1 1/2 years after I swiped out the transmission. The replacement transmission is used and I was told it came from Japan. It worked great up until the problem started.
In one Post I found suggested old contaimination buildup that may have clog a shift port or something. Can I gain access to the hydraulic area without pulling the transmission? And if so, is there hope in recovering the transmission by cleaning this area? Is there a solution that does not require removing the transmission?
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I've had 2 Elantra 2012 models 1 a gls the second a limited. As far as transmission issues both Elantra's from a cold start after allowing RPM's to idle down before taking off they both have started shifting hard going from 1st to second gear 1st car was around 8-9 k miles now 2nd started at 3 k miles. Since owning 2 cars same make same year same transmission and many times to dealer 1st car ended with Transmission replaced 2nd has now started doing the same thing they reset adaptive and next day did it again its now back at dealer waiting for them to diagnose again.
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The 91 bonneville stopped having forward gears but was drove back in reverse about 4 miles, reverse appears to work fine does this thing need new transmission or is there an easier fix...
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I have a 98 expedition with a 4.2 liter 4x4 and what I believe to be a 4r70w transmission (u code on the door sticker)
The original transmission went at 105k miles and was replaced with a new factory ford transmission by a ford dealer 3.5 years ago. The new transmission only has 10k miles on it.
Now the new transmission only has reverse. reverse works like normal but no forward gears. the idle will change when i put if in gear, but will not move, acts like it is in N . There is no strange noises.
It's hard to believe a new trany is shot already, no towing, or off road use.
My question is : is there ANYTHING that can go bad that would cause this? The trany fluid is clean and clear bright red, and no burnt smell.
I want to check everything I can before calling a tow truck to have it looked at. I will have it repaired if needed, but I don't think I want to replace another tranny.
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Had tranny fluid and filter replaced a couple months ago. It's in a 35 foot motorhome (F53 chassis). The motorhome is within it's GCWR. Climbing a 6% grade at 3,500 rpm, little more than half throttle, like all the other climbs. 80 degrees out. Engine temp was on the letter "R" on the word "NORMAL". All of a sudden my engine redlines as if it popped into neutral. I let off, put it into neutral, and try "D" again. Nothing.
At this point it's uphill so it's naturally slowing down and I try "2". Nothing. Even slower and I try "1". Nothing. Pulling over blocking the right lane on a blind curve on a grade is scary. Had pylon cones out, waving traffic to warn them down a ways, etc.
No fluid on the ground, no slipping prior to this. I have reverse. I see no obvious linkage or electrical/wire issues underneath (from road debris, etc). It's at a shop but I want to know all I can so if they come back with something outrageous I can make a decision. I never pulled the stick, as I was coordinating traffic, highway patrol, a tow truck, etc.
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Been working on tightening up the 3 on the tree assembly because shifting has become troublesome; not wanting to engage gears completely, tough to go from 1st to second and so on. I have already adjusted the linkage per the shop manual with no improvement and found that it was not misadjusted. One of the first tasks is to replace the bushings from the shift rod to shift level under the hood though the bushings have some play but don't look that bad.
I have noticed the amount of play in the column when in neutral seems excessive, between 2nd and 3rd I can move the shifter about 2-3 inches up or down from center without feeling any tension toward a gear. This I think is the shift collar. Before I go tearing into the column, after replacing the shift collar was the amount of play significantly reduced?
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I have a 1997 Mercury Mountaineer with a 4R70W trans behind a 5.0 liter. Vehicle sat for about 5 months. Went out to put it back on the road, and now the trans seems to be stuck in a forward gear no matter what the selector is in, park, reverse, neutral. Dropped the pan and replaced the filter and replaced what fluid was drained. no difference,.
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The truck is a 2002 f150 4x4 5.4l... I was driving down the free way last night in 2wd doing about 90kpm when there was a loud bang like a ran over something. Speedo went to zero and abs light came on. Pulled over and shut it down. Crawled underneath to check so damage and couldn't see anything. Stared it back up put it in drive and it just revs. No forward gears or reverse. Fluid level is good, bright pink. Dropped the transmission pan, pan is clean and magnet has next to nothing on it.
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I have a F150, 2nd 4.6, 122,000 miles. No forward gears. When put in drive, you can feel it trying to engage, but doesn't engage completely. Reverse is a solid engagement. Replaced filter and fluid, same issue.
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2003 Explorer with a slipping transmission...codes are P0731, P0732, P0733... Just had a new solenoid pack installed last week when O/D light came on and truck was clunking into reverse. Now, after new pack was installed the forward gears are slipping all over the place!
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I am looking at buying a 91 f250 4x4 with a 5.0 and an e4od. When I start the truck I can feel It roll forward A little bit. I can put the trans In od or nuetral and It will drive and shift normally thru all 4 gears, no slipping and no noise no vibration, It shifts and acts perfectly normal. 1st and 2nd work fine as well. When I put it in reverse It rolls forward slightly then drops Into reverse, it will not actually back up, you can rev the engine to stall speed but no higher. Sometimes in park If you rev the engine It will actually over come the parking pawl and roll forward.
Also when In park I can rev the engine to stall speed only. It only starts in p or n, and the reverse lights come on in R so Im assuming the mlps is adjusted properly and the manual protion is adjusted properly. I pulled codes and had 3 in total, ect shorted, egr flow insufficient, and 1 code for torque convertor clutch solenoid I believe It was 632. Im assuming the reving up to stall speed Is related to the tc code. The fluid level Is fine but is a little dark In color, I tried doing a search with no luck ..
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I know 12 is normal 24 is speed sensor so I ran out and ordered one but no clue where to find it on the car.
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I'm having trouble with the automatic transmission in my 04' Elantra, it acted like the speed sensor was failing, but later the same day it lost all gears, forward and reverse. after turning the car off and sitting a while I started it back up and had gears again, but the trany is making noise. Fluid level is ok.
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I recently bought a 2001 Sante Fe 4X4, (my first Hyundai), that has transmission issues. It has about 135,000 miles on it. It will start easily, and go into Reverse just fine, but would not move in any forward gears. It would occasionally shudder a bit when put in 'drive', but only move forward a few inches. Recently, my mechanic backed it around, then decided to try it in forward again. This time it went forward a couple hundred feet, then quit moving forward. Do I need a new transmission, and if so, what vehicles use this same transmission? Or is there a sensor or valve that could be defective?
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