1998 chevy vortec 350. replaced fuel pump(twice),fuel filter, blew air through the lines, replaced fuel pressure regulator. Getting correct voltage at pump. pump runs. still only get 30 lbs of pressure. Need 60. Thought I bought a defective pump took it back. Same result. Doesnt leak anywhere I can find. Pressure doesn't drop. Just plain don't get the 60 lbs it requires. New battery as well and new F.P. relay.
View 6 RepliesI have a 98 k1500 5.7 vortec. I was driving and the next thing I knew my truck lost power and would misfire at an idle but only when under a load (in drive with foot on brake). The last time something like this happened an injector came out of place. So that's where I started. I wound up changing the whole spider injectors and ALL the gaskets, upper and lower. I put everything back together and the problem was still there so basically I am back to square one.
I then pulled spark plug wires while running to see if I could isolate the misfire and found that I could pull all 4 wires on the passenger side without any difference in while it was running. So basically my truck is currently running on 4 cylinders and they all happen to be on the driver side. I checked my compression on the passenger side and all 4 cylinders have 180 psi so that rules out the head gasket being blown. I am getting 4 codes , 520, p1345, p0155 and p0161. I know that i have to get tge truck properly timed with a computer but i don't think that would cause my problem.
1997 chevy balzer 4.3 6cyc. Oil pressure drop from 40 to 10 and making a knocking sound no loss in power. About 3 weeks ago had oil change and new oil lines and gaskets put on because i had some leaks no noise or problems then just was losing oil then this happened first of all does this sound like a main bearing gave away second should i go back to where i had this work done and complain could they have done something to cause this they are very good and honest mechanics and a reliable auto repair mechanic company the blazer has 180,000 miles or do you think it just because of the mileage it was bound to happen i hate to blame something on someone if was just a coincidence but does this sound like the main bearing?
View 1 RepliesMy Sierra has the 5.7 Vortec engine with 230,000 miles. Ever since I bought the truck at 208k I've been having a random No-Start condition... It can be cold, warm, or not ran for weeks. I've replaced the Fuel pump (just the pump, not the sender too), MAP sensor, ICM, TPS, and Camshaft position sensor. I'm still thinking its a fuel issue. I get 61 PSI at the test port when ignition is on, 55 when cranking, and 54 while running.
View 3 RepliesMy wife has a 1998 Windstar 3.0
Prior to going out yesterday, I noticed that the van seemed kind of 'jumpy' when idling - the timing was a bit sticky and inconsistent and kept seeming to try and right itself. I stuck the accelerator down and it ran perfect when it was getting gas but started 'stagering' again when I took it off.
So my wife went out to walmart - a 30 min drive (we are in the country) - and all was good till she was turning the corner into the parking lot and the engine stalled. It was your standard stall - power steering went out but all other electrics kept going etc etc.
She sat there for a minute - put it in park - then fired it right back up again. After running into walmart, she just drove home as fast as possible to reduce the length of time it had to happen again.....
So while there are, Im sure, a plethora of possible issues - I was wondering about the IAC value? How could that be responsible for the parking lot though - doesn't it only act when the car is stationary?
The sort of thing was happening about 3 months ago, and I ran seafoam through the fuel - which seemed to work for a while.
I have a 98 1.8t TIP and this problem just started happening when I slow down to stop the rpm's drop and it almost dies but it catches it self and the needle bounces a few times and it is fine after that.
Also when I start the car the rpms bounce like three or four times but it again, catches itself and its fine after that... until i want to come to a stop again.. I live in the city and its a lot of stop and go.
Also when i slow down it feels like my car slams into first gear. it shift perfectly every other time up and down, only when it goes into first it hits hard and scares me cause I don't want anything to go wrong.
My wife has been driving our 98 Dodge Grand Caravan the last couple of days and while she is driving the Tachometer and Speedometer will drop to 0. This does not affect the performance of the engine or anything else. Runs and drives "perfect" (or at least for its age and mileage). The dash seems to "reset" when she parks and turns off the ignition then restarts it.
View 2 RepliesI have random power drop off (best description is a loss then a surge or something like a skip) when driving over 60 mph. If I let off the gas or floor it the problem goes away temporarily. No mechanic has been able to figure it out. Chevy dealer just says "we don't have any codes".
View 10 RepliesDaughters car is throwing this code of 17705 VW (1297) saying it is a "Pressure Drop Between Turbo And Throttle Valve" Car runs rough until about 2500 RPM. Replaced the pressure switch by the intercooler.
View 1 RepliesGot my first truck with a 350 Vortec engine, 244K miles. I've got a SES light with code P1509,
"DTC P1509 Idle Speed High - Idle Air Control (IAC) System Not Responding"
That's the only code that's thrown. The engine idles around 1000 RPM and will sometimes surge while driving between 1200-2000 RPM. I googled this code but not much came up. I've seen that a multitude of things can cause high idle, but since I'm getting a code with the symptoms, is this a pretty clear cut case of needing to replace the IAC valve?
My 1998 Honda accord coupe 3.0 has 225 k miles has a new sending unit, fuel pump, main relay, ignition switch, and spark plugs. I cannot find the source of why my car will not start I replaced these things on my car due to car didn't want start. Then it was fine every time I would turn a corner or drive it rpms would drop like I was running out of gas then it would die now it will not start.
I have checked all fuses. I have read in forums that this could take a lot of money to fix only because no one knows the source of why its not starting. I am a disabled female that is just trying too have a running vehicle and can't figure out why it won't start. It has a new battery but won't hold a charge. Had charged it from my friends car for 25 minutes it gave it enough juice to put it in neutral and push it in the driveway with another car.
I have a 97 chev c/k. 305 vortec 5 spd manual with starting problem. If I turn key to crank it will crank with normal starter sounds but not fire. If I crank for less than 2 sec and release key it starts. Found this when cycling fuel pump to build pressure. Has spark when cranking but not starting. Runs great once started. Truck has 58k (low) miles, all orig.
View 8 RepliesI travel and often live in a 94 chevy g20 3/4 ton van. Today I started it up and the electrical was flipping out, I got to the end of the road and I smelled electrical smoke and the van died.
I opened up the hood and the piece of wood that I usually wedge between the battery terminals and the metal frame of the van (the battery is very poorly placed and slides around) had slid out of place and the positive terminal had melted a bit and fused to the frame.
After I got it unstuck, I got a jump and it started right back up fine, but now when I turn on anything electrical my gauges drop slightly for a moment and my gear wont shift from low gear (it's an automatic transmission). This definitely won't do...
It's been harsh winter in NYC. Yesterday evening I parked my ES300H with right side wheels submerged in the icy puddle, meaning the water reached almost to the bottom of the brake rotors. Today I noticed that the rear back wheel looks flat. I check the wheel pressure in the dashboard, and I get 33psi on all wheels but 13psi on that flat one. I have no clue why the pressure drop didn't happen to the front right wheel. I pumped that flat tire and drove over 20 miles that day, no tire pressure drop.
So, the moral: Don't park/submerge your wheels in ice cold puddles.
I have a 1998 Accord, 4-cylinder VTEC standard transmission, 226,000 miles. Last fall I first experienced a problem with the car where within 5-10 minutes of starting the engine and driving, the engine seems to lose power/fuel and RPMs act as if they'll drop low enough for the engine to stall. If I take my foot off the accelerator, and reapply, the engine seems to gain power again.
Also, if I open the accelerator to full while the problem is occurring, it can occasionally "push through" and gain power again. Similar things will happen while stopped. In neutral, RPMs fall low and suddenly jump back up and then settle into normal idle. The problem never persists longer than 10 minutes within starting the car.
I took my car into a local shop that came recommended by a friend. They investigated a "check engine" light that didn't explain the problem and were never able to recreate the condition themselves. They replaced a few parts but lost the work order so I don't even know what they changed, but the problem seemed to have solved itself for a while. Recently it started up again and I would love to sort it out.
I bought a 2001 chevy malibu about a month and a half ago.when I test drove it,didnt notice any problems or leaks...after driving it for a 2 weeks...the brake pedal would drop to the floor while driving and then if I hit it again real quick it would be ok...this problem would happen now and then....we replaced the right front caliper thinking that it was sticking and bled all the brakes..There was air in the system..everything was fine for about two more weeks then while driving the pedal would get hard when applied and then drop again..not all the way to the floor,and it alternates that way..what are your thoughts? I don't have much money to fix this problem.
View 14 RepliesI drive a 1999 Chevy Malibu. My car overheated the other day so I pulled over and realized the overflow was bone dry. So I added water and finished my trip. By the time I got there the car was overheating again and the overflow was again empty. I have changed the water pump, the thermostat, and the overflow cap. Whats happening now is when I crank it the car Idles fine until it gets warm, then steam starts to come out of the overflow hose coming from the cap. If I drive it not only steam but all my coolant just starts pouring out of this thing. I was told this might mean a busted head, but there is no coolant in my oil or water coming out of my exhaust.
View 1 RepliesI have an '01 Impala, 3.8 engine with 200k miles. Whenever the engine idles, at a stop, or in a parking spot, the idle will drop, then the car will stall. It will start right back up, but unless you are actively pressing the accelerator, the same thing occurs. There's no sputtering or performance issues, and nothing to indicate that it's about to stall. I've replaced the IAC valve, AND the EGR valve. Still having the same issue.
View 5 RepliesI have a Chevy 2006 Malibu LT V6 and when i first got the car a year ago I had no problems. After a few months, I would fill up the tank up completely and then drive it around and stop at a stop light. The gas meter would drop from Full to Empty with the light coming on then reset itself. It happened sparingly so I thought nothing of it. Now just a few days ago I filled the tank up and now the gauge is staying at Full when I know for a fact that I do not have a full tank. Whenever I turn on the car, the gas gauge needle jumps from full to empty to half to full to quarter until ending at full. Lately, I've been trying to go off the fuel mileage on my radio but with that resetting to what my fuel gauge says I'm getting fearful of running out of gas.
View 10 RepliesI am a newbie as far as fuel injection. The original issue the truck had was no fuel. I tracked down the issues to a blown fuel pump relay and a melted inertia switch. I jumped the inertia wires with a new fuel pump relay installed and the truck ran at an idle and up to 3500 RPM when stationary. If the truck is going up a grade or needs more throttle it will start to lose fuel pressure and end up stalling. I had the fuel pressure gauge connected to the schrader valve on the fuel rail and had 30-35 PSI when idling. It runs good under light load on the throttle.
Under heavy load it starts to drop quickly and if you back off the throttle it will stay running some times. I changed the fuel filter and also replaced the high pressure pump on the main frame and it still has the same problems.The original pump was pumping about 13 ounces of fuel in the 20 second test that the repair manual suggested. I have even placed a jumper wire direct to the new fuel pump to bypass original wiring and possible problems. When it stalls under load (No Fuel pressure) at the schrader valve you can hear the fuel pump running but there is no fuel pressure.
If I turn off the ignition for a few minutes and then turn the key back to the on position it will start to pressurize and then start and run at an idle. I even replace the ignition switch as it was a little temperamental. I have not changed or checked the fuel pressure regulator as it is a pain to get to at the back of the engine. I do not want to spend a fortune tracking down this problem since the truck may not even pass its smog inspection and may be a parts truck only.
67 F-250 4x4
73 Crew 4x2 (4x4 Soon)
89 F-250 Super Cab 4x4
I recently bought a 1998 GMC Seira with over 211,000 miles on it. On the way home I noticed that the oil pressure was low when I stopped for red lights. Can this mean anything other that a bad oil pump?
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