My mini van after driving it say 20 miles, starts shifting kinda like its slipping every know and then, and check engine light comes on. Its ok until about that first 20 miles, before that its ok.
View 1 Replies2007 Chevy Impala3.5L 6-cyl Flex Fuel engine w/ 4 speed auto trans52,800 miles
Extreme driving conditions maintenance schedule kept.Transmission standard service done @ 32,800 miles which was 20k ago.
PROBLEM:
1) Twice in past three days, when shifting from reverse to drive the transmission has slipped, revving hard with rpms spiked above 3,000 for about 2 seconds before engaging the forward drive gear.
Normally I come to a complete stop of all reverse motion with foot fully on the brake pedal before shifting. Admittedly, I got sloppy the first time noted and still had very slight reverse motion when I shifted.
2) Several times late today, while driving uphill at approx 35 - 45 mph, when the car downshifted there was an extremely brief moment of transmission slippage with spiked rpms. It was so brief each time that at first I thought I'd imagined it until it happened again. Then it did it once on a level surface in a parking lot when having shifted from reverse to drive without problem and was gently accelerating the transmission again slipped for just the briefest moment when the normal automatic shift point was reached. So far, all incidences while driving have been so extremely brief that it was the merest hint of a hiccup.
3) When bringing the car to a complete stop, such as at a stoplight or when parking, as the transmission automatically shifts for the braking of speed, sometimes there is a minor but noticeable thunk sound seeming to come from underneath the car, I'd judge to be somewhere about under the level of the dashboard or slightly forward of that. Could that be from a worn or broken transmission mount? And, if so, could that be somehow causing the slippage problem?
4) This transmission has always, even since new, allowed more roll after being shifted into park, the engine shut off and my foot taken off the brake than any other car I have ever driven. If I forget to engage the parking brake quite tightly, the car will roll forward quite a few inches before the parking pawl holds it, even on the level. I've been told both by the dealership shop and the independent mechanic shop that there is no problem and that this particular engine/transmission combination tends to do this although my particular car seems to do so somewhat worse than average.
ACTIONS TAKEN SO FAR:
1) Have made an appointment to take the car into the mechanic.
2) Will check the transmission fluid level per instructions in the owner's manual tomorrow when I have daylight to see what the fluid level and color on the stick looks like.
NOTE:
1) I periodically check the transmission fluid level and it has never been low or discolored. The shop checked it for me, along with making sure everything else was road trip worthy, for an emergency 1,000 round trip in late November, just three months ago. No problems then.
2) No evidence on the garage floor of any leakage. Garage floor is dry.
QUESTIONS:
1) I presume the first step is for the mechanic to check the fluid level and examine for any leaks?
2) If the mechanic cannot duplicate the problem in a test drive, then what?
3) If the problem cannot be duplicated and no apparent cause found, I presume that the prudent course of action is to go ahead and have standard transmission maintenance done (i.e. drop the pan, check for debris, drain and replace with fresh fluid) then see if that halts the slippages?
4) Given that this car has already had failures of the power steering pump, water pump, and part of the wiring harness, and has a fuel pump starting to get noisy, despite aggressively maintaining all standard/preventive maintenance, that perhaps it is time to think of replacing this car, especially if there proves to be any truly major transmission problem found?
I have a misfire on cylinder #5 on my 03 Chevy Venture with a 3.4L, I changed the #5 Injector because the shop I took it to said that's what it was. But the same code came back for misfire cylinder #5, would a bad plug or wire cause the same code to come up.
View 6 RepliesI own a 2003 Chevy Venture minivan that had the front left tire go flat yesterday. I backed out of the parking space and drove a few feet before realizing we had a flat and then immediately re-parked. The spare was bad (rusty and flat) so I had someone take me to Goodyear to replace the tire (it had a hole on the inside sidewall and was not repairable).
We got the tire on and drove the 30 miles home - as I was driving, I noticed that there was a slight vibration and a buzzing/humming sound coming from the front of the car. It definitely changed pitch/feel as the car sped up or slowed down.
I'm going to take the tire back off today and inspect everything to make sure everything is in place, but what might be going on? Bent rim? Tire balance?
I turned on the car (2003 Chevy Venture) today and the "Low Engine Oil" display came on. I checked the oil (car had been parked on a flat surface overnight and engine was cold) and the oil was about 1/3 of the way up the dipstick, which is way, WAY past the full line. I let the car sit and warm up a little, checked again and the same level appeared. I am wondering what that means. After being on for a minute or so the engine oil light went off.
The check engine light has been on for about two days and when I went to check it yesterday the error code was p0171. Are the two related? Is there an easy fix for this or is this a sign of a serious problem?
My Chevy Venture 2003 approx 120 thousand miles is idling high at times. It will drive fast. I can feel it speeding up even when I am not pushing on the gas. When I put the car in reverse it flys backward (I have to keep my foot on the break to back up at a safe speed) and then when I put the car in park the engine is VERY loud. Again, this does not happen all the time. Usually when I drive it over ten miles. I thought it might have something to do with the AC, but I played around with that (driving with and without the AC) and that did not factor in it.
I took it to my own personal mechanic and he couldn't find anything wrong with it. I then took it to a dealership and they said they couldn't find anything wrong with after doing their hundred dollars worth of diagnostics and said they needed it to actually be doing it..what they called a hard fail...for them to know what was going on. . They drove the car for quite some time and nothing happened. I drove it all this pass weekend and nothing happened. It might go a week or so without doing it. Thenn it does it. Usually I can turn the car off and restart it and it will be back to normal. The check engine light is NOT on. Any clue as to what might be going on?
From the other users it seems that almost all are having slipping of gears and rough shifting associated with this code. On mine I'm not getting any slipping or rough shifting...it actually still seems to be driving just fine. The OD light came on and will go away after shutting the truck off and back on...it will then not flash anymore for say a couple of months or so...this has been happening for the past few years every now and again and i never thought much of it. I just made a 2k mile trip and this happened again but this time it threw the p0775 code which is a first.. Is it possibly a very early sign of the sensors going bad.
View 3 RepliesI spoke with a few people here before about my 4r100.. it threw a code a month ago for P0750.. i replaced solenoid and it continued to do it even after clearing codes numerous times.. then all of a sudden it was perfectly fine for over a week, no codes, i ran a few brick hauls with it and ran it for over an hour straight.. i went to fl and upon return i took her for a drive and wouldnt you know, the code has returned.. i did hammer down a little but not from a dig, i just got on it a little playing with a neighbor and his truck and all of a sudden it did its thing slipping and not up shifting then the O/D started flashing again... i cant understand why the code would come back all of a sudden, there has to be a wiring problem correct?
View 9 RepliesMy excursion's trans is slipping on the 25hp tune up high in the RPM band and shutters when up shifting. I have dropped to stock most of the time, but I know i am on borrowed time.
I had a JW trans in my e99, and there is no question on the durability and performance of the transmission. The price has gone up a lot, but that's maybe not the big issue.
I live in the mountains and spend a lot of time pulling and just driving in that 40 to 60 mph range over mountain passes. That is basically where I spend ALL of my time.
The distance between 3rd and 4th is driving me CRAZY! I have researched everything from swapping to a manual, to PCS controllers, to trying 4.11 gears, to overdrive units.
Swapping Manual: ZF6 is the obvious candidate, but I have read the swap is not probably something I have the skills or tools to do. I have also read that the performance of the ZF6 is sub par. But it seems like it would give me my 3.5 gear that I am looking for.
PCS Controller: Looks cool for a way to have control besides using the tree shift. Maybe a compromise on not swapping in a manual.
4.11 Gears: I get pretty excited thinking about the low end torque etc. I go off road almost every week, and like I said, I hardly go over 75 mph. But once in a while I do. Right now, the truck turns about 2300- 2500 rpm at interstate cruising speed. Looking for 4.10s rpm in that range to compare? Also, how bad of a fuel economy hit would I take? What is the cruising rpm of 4.10's between 60 and 65 mph, or in general what is the rpm change?
Overdrive Unit: I have always been interested in more gears, but I read about someone who installed one behind a 7.3 and didn't have they great of results. To the point where he said it wasn't worth it.
My 2002 chevy venture does not provide any heat from the cabin air system..The engine reaches proper driving temperature normally.Can't heat the cabin or get any modulation of cabin temp when using A/C.
View 2 RepliesMy 2001 Chevy Venture van is accelerating on it's own and is now overheating. The heater works, the AC works but the defrost doesn't. I can be at a dead stop, put it in drive and it starts going on it's own, even up a hill. It's also developed a 'knock' or 'jump' with it automatically shits gears. I simply cannot afford a new engine, we did that last year when it overheated and blew the gaskets.
View 2 RepliesThis car has 210k miles with very minimal problems. I'm the original owner and have always done my own repair work. For the last two years the car has been surging on acceleration. It is fairly rapid surging and it is intermittent. When it is especially bad I can let up on the throttle, press again and it may be OK...until the next time I accelerate. I have replaced a lot of parts, there are no trouble codes and nothing noticed in the data streams. I've tried four throttle position sensors (second one failed and set a code) and nothing makes any difference.
Here is a list of other parts I've replaced since this problem started, again nothing changes the surging, fuel pump (failed level sensor), fuel pressure regulator (pressure was on low side of range), idle air motor, map sensor, mass air flow sensor (swapped with my S10 pickup). I'm planning to donate the car to an organization after I get this problem fixed (my wife won't let me donate it with the surging problem since it could be safety issue if the car doesn't accelerate when its needed).
My 04 Chevy Venture has started smelling of gas when I drive. It doesn’t happen all the time. I can drive to a destination and smell nothing, park, and a few moments later leave and smell the gas. I have had the fuel lines checked and was told there are no leaks. The smell is stronger when I have the vents pointed at me, but if I switch to the floor vents, it diminishes.
View 5 RepliesI have been having problems for about 1 1/2 months. My dash gauge never indicates it is overheating. Within this time both heater hose tee's have broken. One of the new ones only lasted about 2 weeks before it broke on all 3 connections. Now the heater hose connector broke. What could be causing this?
View 9 RepliesMy engine will occasionally lope at startup. If I look at my scanner the fuel trims will suddenly go negative up to - 20 and then the engine smooths out. It seems to happen in open loop and when in closed loop the fuel trims balance out. I changed my maf sensor, but it did nothing. I don't smell any gas, no Check engine light.
1998 Chevy Venture LS
240,000 miles
Engine replaced at 165,000
Platinum plugs replaced at 165,000
Plug wires replaced at 190,000
I just finished replacing the head gaskets and all gaskets above it on my Chevy Venture. When I went to start the vehicle the first time nothing happens. The dashlights come on, but when I turn the key to start nothing happens. No clicking, no nothing. I have tested the battery...OK. I have tested the starter...OK. I have traced the wiring harness to ensure all wires are plugged in. I have checked all the fuses. I thought maybe its the gear switch so I changed down to 1st and then back up to Park...Nothing. I jiggled while in park..Nothing. Could it be the actual ignition switch? It was fine before this escapade.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2001 chevy venture (254,000 miles) that has me baffled. It has been a great van but it started about a month ago sputtering and bucking and numerous times shutting off. Most times the engine light would NOT come on. It would get the hiccoughs and start bucking like someone learning to drive a stick shift for the first time. Once it sputtered hard enough to throw off the serpentine belt. I put a new timing belt on it last year when I redone the intake manifold gasket. Now its not shutting off but it has only about half the power it should and the engine light is starting to come on more often.
It bogs down and then it will try to go then bog down again. The engine light blinks for about 20 seconds then stops and goes out. When the engine light is on and stays on the code most often says system too lean, and a egr flow insufficient. It does have a vacuum leak in the hose going to the egr. Have ordered that, hasn't come in yet. Gas mileage is horrible. I have done new plugs, fuel filter and cleaned the K&N air filter. Someone suggested the catalytic converter. I dumped in a bottle of 'Cata-cleanse' from Autozone. No difference. A friend of mine had a venture doing the exact same thing. It was in the shop for 6mo with no luck. But his straightened out on its own and is running good now. I really don't feel like waiting 6mo to see if this will straighten out.
. My "piece of junk" (as my husband refers to it) 2002 Chevy Venture broke down on me last year. It felt and sounded like a tire blew. There were no warning signs. It was very sudden. I had it towed to where I was buying it and they told me the motor was blown because I had let it run out of oil. I knew this wasn't the case (letting it run out of oil) and so I brought it home. My husband discovered the oil pump was not working but before I could afford to put one on to see if this fixed it, it was repo-ed as I had lost my job for no transportation. For about a month, the car lot intended to take the vehicle to auction and then sue me for the rest.
I was finally able to work out an arrangement with them where they held the car until I got my student loan money and paid for it. When I got it back, I expected it to start and to be able to try the oil pump. However, now it will only start when you short out the starter, runs for a second and dies. During these brief seconds, we discovered that the oil pump is pumping oil. I have a theory that while they intended to sell the vehicle, they started to fix it. But why will it only start if the starter is shorted out and then not continue to run? Will a new starter solve this? And could the motor completely blow up in a matter of minutes from the oil pump going out?
I have an 04 Chevy Venture. Recently it started making what I can only describe as a grinding. I have been a mechanic for over 30 years, working on everything from motorcycles to heavy construction equipment. This is a new one on me. I have checked the wheel bearings, brakes and rotors, and suspension. All good. I have blocked her up and put it in gear, and the noise seems to be coming from the transaxle. Fluid is cherry red and is not burnt, no metal shavings, and not low. I have noticed that while driving, if I jog the wheel left or right, it quite until you straighten out again. If I weave back n forth going down the road, it's pretty much non existant, but the cops are starting get suspicious.
View 6 RepliesMy 99' Venture is leaking antifreeze and was overheating. Ok, so I figure it's something as simple as replace the radiator cap or something. My mechanic says it looks like my manifold gasket is due to be changed AGAIN. If I had one going into the other then I could see why we're talking oil when I'm talking antifreeze. I parked the car cause I have a second car. So the Van sits for 3 months and leaks into the pan I put to protect my driveway.
I could probably have filled a quart container with the puddle created. It looks Orange so yes it's antifreeze and yes it's SLIGHTLY milky when you shake it around. It doesn't show any sign of oil. BUT when I check the oil on the dipstick it's perfectly fine. The car wouldn't start so you'd say jump it right? Did that and nothing, bought a brand new battery still nothing. So I had it towed to a Mechanic. If he can't find it I'm going to plan B, let the dealer diagnose it, get a quote and take it from there.
I have a new thermostat and a new water pump. Why is my car still running hot?
View 4 Replies