I have been having problems for about 1 1/2 months. My dash gauge never indicates it is overheating. Within this time both heater hose tee's have broken. One of the new ones only lasted about 2 weeks before it broke on all 3 connections. Now the heater hose connector broke. What could be causing this?
View 9 RepliesMy 99' Venture is leaking antifreeze and was overheating. Ok, so I figure it's something as simple as replace the radiator cap or something. My mechanic says it looks like my manifold gasket is due to be changed AGAIN. If I had one going into the other then I could see why we're talking oil when I'm talking antifreeze. I parked the car cause I have a second car. So the Van sits for 3 months and leaks into the pan I put to protect my driveway.
I could probably have filled a quart container with the puddle created. It looks Orange so yes it's antifreeze and yes it's SLIGHTLY milky when you shake it around. It doesn't show any sign of oil. BUT when I check the oil on the dipstick it's perfectly fine. The car wouldn't start so you'd say jump it right? Did that and nothing, bought a brand new battery still nothing. So I had it towed to a Mechanic. If he can't find it I'm going to plan B, let the dealer diagnose it, get a quote and take it from there.
. My "piece of junk" (as my husband refers to it) 2002 Chevy Venture broke down on me last year. It felt and sounded like a tire blew. There were no warning signs. It was very sudden. I had it towed to where I was buying it and they told me the motor was blown because I had let it run out of oil. I knew this wasn't the case (letting it run out of oil) and so I brought it home. My husband discovered the oil pump was not working but before I could afford to put one on to see if this fixed it, it was repo-ed as I had lost my job for no transportation. For about a month, the car lot intended to take the vehicle to auction and then sue me for the rest.
I was finally able to work out an arrangement with them where they held the car until I got my student loan money and paid for it. When I got it back, I expected it to start and to be able to try the oil pump. However, now it will only start when you short out the starter, runs for a second and dies. During these brief seconds, we discovered that the oil pump is pumping oil. I have a theory that while they intended to sell the vehicle, they started to fix it. But why will it only start if the starter is shorted out and then not continue to run? Will a new starter solve this? And could the motor completely blow up in a matter of minutes from the oil pump going out?
I have a 2002 (not 2001) Chevy Venture and recently replaced the left rear (drivers side) tail light circuit board. I replaced it with a genuine GM part, and when I connected the wire harness to the circuit board and screwed the tail light assembly back in place, everything works properly for say a half hour or so, then I usually get the fast blinking left turn signal (like a bulb is out). Also, both turn signals come on solid when I hit the brake. A lot of times, if I turn off the ignition and turn it back on, I'll get the Service Traction System warning and Traction Off lights in the dash. If I take the assembly apart and push down on the wire harness and put it back together, everything works well for a short time again, but it usually reverts back to the above. It seems to be a loose connection and I thought about some kind of loctite to keep everything in place. Someone also casually mentioned a dielectric grease, which sounds like it would be better.
View 8 RepliesThe lower rear brake lights on my Venture aren't working, while the high light at the top of the door still works. I've replaced both circuit boards on the driver and passenger side, and all of the bulbs are fine. What I might have missed along the way?
View 2 RepliesI am having problem with the battery light coming on headlights on when switch is off the fuel gauge dancing up and down radio works intermittently that's when I start the van it will only run a few miles and the battery will go completely flat I have changed the starter do not believe it is the alternator as there to many electrical problems thinking that a short somewhere. Where to start and what to look at .....
View 3 RepliesI have a 2006 Jeep Liberty 3.7L that has a temperature gauge on the dash that reads an overheat when driving. The oil looks normal, there is no white smoke, no bubbling from reservoir. I have replaced the following:
Radiator
Thermostat
Water Pump
Coolant Temperature Sensor
Coolant Reservoir Tank
I am not leaking any coolant and the reservoir level has been fine. I have let the vehicle idle for 20+minutes, with no overheat. When I drive it around, the temperature gauge will read an overheat. When I stop the car and pop the hood, the engine is not overheated and both rubber hoses to/from radiator are flowing the coolant. The only thing that will bring the gauge down is turning on the heater full blast. Could this be the gauge itself being bad? Could it be a short in a wire somewhere? I had thought maybe a head gasket, but have no symptoms of a head gasket.
I have a 1979 Chevy Camaro and whenever I turn the car on so it only lights up my dash, my RPM gauge goes all over the place, and the engine isn't even turn on yet. And also before i even put the keys in the ignition, the RPM is sitting at 10.
View 3 RepliesMy 2002 Impala runs hot when pulling a long grade and I have to turn off the a/c. It runs fine every other time. New belts, hoses, thermostat and flushed completely with new coolant. The radiator is fine and a/c coils are clean also
View 2 RepliesI drive a 2002 Mazda Protege and it's been great to me until this past weekend. I had a 4.5-5 hour trip ahead of me and Google Maps told me a more direct route (i.e. not using the interstates) would save time. It must have erroneously assumed that the highway comprising basically the entire trip would be speed limit 55-65 the entire way. Instead, I found myself slowing down to stoplights and stop signs in small villages between 15-minute sprints. At some point, the interior heat stops - the air being pulled in from outside is not being warmed at all, no matter what settings I fiddle with. Not long thereafter I notice a rattling noise behind the dash. From inside the car it sounds almost like an animal skittering around in the chassis - irregular, short and clipped. With the hood up and an ear to the engine, it sounds like a piece of plastic fluttering in the wind, but with a faint electric "crackling" quality. Soon thereafter the check-engine light illuminates.
Before long the engine overheats and I pull over to the side of the road. Nothing appears to be leaking, and the crackling sound is the only thing noticable. Being in the middle of nowhere, I jumped back in and proceeded to drive at about 35-40, which was warm on the engine but enough to get me to a small town. At this point I checked the coolant reservoir and it was empty. Bought some from Wal-mart, poured it in, and headed out. Things looked fine at first since the engine had sat cold while I was running errands, but pretty soon it was overheating again at speeds as low as 30mph. After getting it towed to my destination, I took it to a garage the next morning. They couldn't find anything wrong with it, and indeed when I drove it back to the hotel that morning the engine behaved normally, the check-engine light was off, and the interior heating was functioning properly.
The next morning, when it was time to depart (but again after an entire night of sitting in the cold), a 20 minute drive to breakfast was smooth as before. Thinking that the mechanic had either waved a magic wand or I'd gotten extremely lucky, I hit the highway and did 65 for a good 20 minutes until the engine began to overheat again. Slowing down to 45 bought a few more minutes to find an exit, but eventually I had to pull over. Popping the hood, I notice the coolant in the reservoir is bubbling to the top! Thinking the mechanic might have added more and overfilled it, I cursed him in absentia. After a good fifteen minutes of cooling off, the coolant settled and in fact drained the reservoir entirely; I refilled it to the line and, again being in rural snowtopia with few options, decided to hit the road again. Not wanting to tempt fate, I stuck to 55mph and the car ran fine for an hour and a half (with the interior heat blasting, per a friend's advice). I stopped once to check the coolant and all was as it should have been - just below the line I'd filled it to earlier. Closer to a city, I decided to experiment again and took the speed up to 60mph.
This was great for 20-30 minutes but eventually the engine began overheating ever-so-slowly and I had to pull over, let it cool off, and replace another full reservoir's worth of coolant that had disappeared before I kept going. I drove the rest of the way home going no faster than 55mph and stopping on occasion to check the coolant. It overheated once even while doing 55mph, but a 15 minute break + coolant refill bought it the rest of the trip. In summary: Although not 100% correlated, going faster than 55mph seems to trigger the engine overheating, at which point the rattling noise appears and the coolant begins to bubble its way back up the reservoir (like it's boiling?!). I'm not sure how the coolant is disappearing because I'm unable to find any leak, nor is there any extra exhaust that would suggest it's burning.
I will start out with a little history of the situation. A little over three months ago my original altenator died with over 200,000 miles on it. I took it in and had it replaced (they used a refurbished altenator) and about a 1-1/2 months later is when the issue started. The headlights and dash lights will flicker and whenever they dim, the volt gauge will go down.
When the lights come back to normal brightness the volt guage will also go back to normal. All this will go on for random lengths of time as I am driving. I took the vehicle back to where I had the altenator replaced and they replaced it again under warranty. About another 1-1/2 months went by and the same thing started happening. I took it back to the same garage and this time they put in a brand new altenator. Finally about a week after this last visit to the garage the symptoms came back.
My factory gauge on the dash reads Zero. I have put on a mechanical external gauge and it reads normal.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2002 Monte Carlo what recently had a new radiator, thermostat, intake manifold gaskets replaced. I was spewing coolant everywhere. Since the repairs with all new OEM parts, I still get the 'Hot Coolant Temp" warning on my dash. The temp gauge is pinned at 260 but minutes later drastically drop to under half way after which it seems to balance out at slightly under half way.
I also see the 'Low Coolant" as well even though I am full. All of this occurring while driving. I checked the oil and underneath the oil cap. No frothy or milkiness. Exhaust seems ok, no white smoke. The heat inside my car when i run it seems to go from warm to cold and back again. I'm praying it's not a cracked heard or blown head gaskets.
I have a 2000 chevy venture with 100,000 miles on it and I just had the thermostat replaced a month ago. Now that the weather is getting warmer I have noticed the gauge going up when idling for a few minutes, drive through, etc. Is there a sensor that could have went bad when the thermostat went out that should be replaced? When I start driving again the gauge comes back down. I have noticed that the fans arent kicking on, but when I turn the a/c or heat on then they do.
View 14 RepliesI have an erratic fuel gauge. I have to reset odometer at every gas fill up to keep track of mileage. Need to replace the unit but I tried the GM Fuel treatment Plus in the gas tank first.
View 4 Replies2004 Venture LT ... The newest problem I am having that I haven't resolved is that the fuel gauge is showing empty, low fuel light on, range on trip computer says (E). I repaired the wiring harness's on the left and right front due to ac leakage, and I also repaired the pass through behind the drivers seat. This seemed to resolve many of the problems I was having.
The thing I noticed is that before I repaired the pass through connector the gauge would work intermittently but now its totally dead. I find it unlikely that the sender and the connector would go out at the same time. Any wiring diagram of that connector, or at least which color the wires are for the sending unit and the resistance values I should get?
I have a 2002 impala that has occasionally not started. The problem started a couple months ago, once it started getting cold here in the midwest. Every few weeks when I turned the key, nothing would happen. It only happened occasionally, and after waiting a bit it would start normally. I did some reading and suspected it was the anti theft locking the car down. Today I tried jumping the car just to be sure it wasn't the battery, and all of the electronics were very dim. I heard a rapid clicking noise from the dash that continued even after I removed the key. The headlights were rapidly flashing, although also very dim. This continued for about a minute before stopping. I tried letting the battery charge from the jump for about 10 minutes, no change.
View 1 RepliesMy 2002 chevy venture does not provide any heat from the cabin air system..The engine reaches proper driving temperature normally.Can't heat the cabin or get any modulation of cabin temp when using A/C.
View 2 RepliesMy 2001 Chevy Venture van is accelerating on it's own and is now overheating. The heater works, the AC works but the defrost doesn't. I can be at a dead stop, put it in drive and it starts going on it's own, even up a hill. It's also developed a 'knock' or 'jump' with it automatically shits gears. I simply cannot afford a new engine, we did that last year when it overheated and blew the gaskets.
View 2 RepliesMy mini van after driving it say 20 miles, starts shifting kinda like its slipping every know and then, and check engine light comes on. Its ok until about that first 20 miles, before that its ok.
View 1 RepliesI have a misfire on cylinder #5 on my 03 Chevy Venture with a 3.4L, I changed the #5 Injector because the shop I took it to said that's what it was. But the same code came back for misfire cylinder #5, would a bad plug or wire cause the same code to come up.
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