Chevrolet - Trailblazer :: A/C Randomly Stops Blowing Cool Humidity Free Air
Aug 3, 2016
So I can't figure out what is causing my a/c to randomly stop working,it's not leaking or freezing up and it's not the clutch or fuse and so on. What it does is basically it transitions from cool humidity free air to warmer humid air It's been in two different shops and produces no error messages either,however when it does it if you turn the car off and start it again it starts working fine. I've been going crazy trying to figure out what it is!
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My wife has a 2008 Chevy Impala with over 80,000 miles. When the weather is cold, the heater will blow cool air while in Park, even with the car warmed up. Then, once it is put in Drive, the heater begins to blow hot air again. Again, all of this time the engine temp gauge is in the middle position.
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I had just picked my kid up from school, as I turn out of the parking lot my A/C stops blowing cool air, I check the A/C screen and it still says it's set on High with temp at 68. However, it is blowing very low with warm air. Seconds later the dash lights up with numerous warning lights. I'm on the highway and I'm able to gather speed, but each time I do I hear the engine revving like crazy. We only live a few miles from the school so I am able to make it home. Once home, I turn off the car and turn it back on. The only warning lights displayed now are the red triangle and the yellow check engine light. I turn the car off, pop the hood, I check the belt and it was fine. I checked the oil and it seemed fine. I check the coolant overflow and it was empty.
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2014 Elantra GT SE tech package. This issue is intermittent so I am reluctant to take it to the dealer as they will just say there is nothing wrong if they cannot replicate the issue.
The problem I have is the ventilation inside the car stops blowing air randomly. I could be driving for 1/2 hour, 1 hour, 3 hours, and all of the sudden the amount of air blowing out of the vents drops down to almost nothing. I can still hear the fan blowing away at what sounds like full power, but air is just barely trickling out of the vents. Really sucks on hot days! This is going to be a bigger issue once winter comes.
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I have a 1995 Chevy C1500 Silverado. The blower and heater work great when I start driving. After about 20 minutes of driving on high blower speed, the strength of air blowing out reduces drastically and eventually no air is blowing out of the vents. I can still hear that the blower is blowing air, but there is no air coming out of the vent. The Midas repair shop I frequent couldn't reproduce the issue on their short test drive (of course). They told me to bring it back to them whenever the problem occurs. I haven't had the opportunity because by the time I get out of work, they are closed and I am freezing to death every morning.
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I am having trouble with my Chevrolet Aveo 2009 A/C. After driving for a while on the highway, the A/C stops blowing much air at low fan and when I increase the fan speed, it blows more air while making a whistling noise but not as much air as it usually does on that same fan speed. The noise starts going away after a while and it blows as much air as it should.I noticed that it happens more when I keep accelerating every now and then on the highway.
It does not happen as much when I am driving on a constant speed. I took it to the dealership and they said the filter was dirty and they found a leak on the vaporizer cap, fixed those but nothing changed! What might be the cause? I was researching the issue and came across this ""TPS (throttle position sensor) gives the WOT (wide open throttle) signal to the PCM to momentarily cut off power to the A/C clutch which disengages the A/C"...Could that be the issue?
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I continue to have problems with my Chevy Beretta. The original problem was that -- after my neice's husband ran the car out of gas -- we had to replace the fuel filter. That was last spring. Afterward the car seemed to run fine until the weather got hot. Now it seems to stall generally in high heat and humidity.
I only paid $800 for the car, and my idea was to get everything fixed on it and drive it a while to get my money out of it. I don't want to go into debt for a car, and I don't want to buy another one (unless I have to). I travel a lot, but I don't need my car for work -- just for personal travel.
A local mechanic has changed the crankshaft position sensor and now the ignition module. I got the car out of the shop again yesterday, but the problem remains. I could barely drive it around the block this evening. The temperature is 73F, humidity is 84%, and dewpoint is 68.
Is this problem definitely weather related? What could be the cause? Vapor lock? An intermittent problem with the fuel pump, filters, or fuel injector? Is it possible to get this fixed for good?
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The fan for the AC started blowing at high the other day when it was first started which is normal when its hot out. But after a few seconds it slowed then picked up, them slowed, the picked up. Just like it was confused.
I turned it off and then back to AUTO and it was OK again. This happened twice now in the last three days when it was hot out. Today the fan would not start until I turned it off and on a few times. Blower, blower resistor, AC dash control.
'02 TB w/ auto climate control.
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I have a 2004 Trailblazer, and just recently the A/C just stop blowing. I have checked to relays and fuses and all are fine, I even checked the fan motor relay thinking that would work. I am at a lost right now and have no clue what else to check.
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I have a 2000 Suburban which is only blowing hot air from the vents. If I turn the temp selector to cold it still blows hot air. Even when I press the button for AC it still only produces hot air.
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My air conditioning just stopped blowing cool air. While the blower still operates properly, the air is coolest (but not nearly cool enough or normal) at the extreme right passenger vent, then is progressively warmer toward the driver's side, with the warmest vent being the extreme left at the driver's side next to door. I'm inept at mechanics in general, and especially with autos, which is why I bought the BMW (which tells you when it needs service) to begin with. The only thought I had was that I recently had the car detailed and the engine washed at the BMW dealership. Could something have come loose when power washed under the hood? I'm hesitant to take it back since my last experience was not a good one. I have of course checked all the settings.
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2004 Foed Freestar, the A/C has started blowing less than cool air in the past sveveral days. I'm assuming its low on refrg. but how does one check by visual inspection? If it is low will a simple re-charge kit w/guage and super dupper leak sealant do the trick? I saw a kit at Advance Autoparts for manufactured by Interdynamics. It had a guage w/trigger release for can content and three 12oz. cans of R134a. Will this kind of kit work?
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my AC is only blowing through the defrost and the floor - It's a cool 101 degrees here today!!
We have changed out the battery, the actuator on the passenger AND driver side, as well as pulling the HVAC fuse from the fuse box under the rear seat - none of this has worked!
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Had a question about the rear a/c cooling on my 2009 GX 470 - the last few days have been nice enough to warrant using the A/C. I noticed though, that the 4 rear vents seem to not be producing any cool air - kind of a problem when I have an overheated Boxer dog that would love some cool A/C. Any thoughts? I have the rear A/C on, all the way to the - or minus sign and the fan speed to Auto.
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All of a sudden the AC in my 2007 Passat 2.0 stopped blowing cold air. It worked great yesterday. I'm worried that it might be the compressor because I don't have the 1000+ dollars to have it replaced. I bought the car in 2009 but I'm almost sure it is out of warranty because I've put more than 50,000 miles on it. I read some posts that the AC might need to simply be recharged ?????
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New owner for the passat 2003 gls passat 1.8T. I turned on the AC and its not blowing cool air. Looking for DIY to fix my AC problem.
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As the season has started to warm, I noticed when I have my air temp set to 60 and only using the vent and have not selected AC I have hot air coming out of my vents. After doing some research it appears that I may have a bad Air blend actuator, bad air door or something else. I took my truck to the dealer to get my fuel filter changed and asked if they could diagnose the hot air issue. Not being a mechanic I told the service mechanic the problem and he says the AC compressor always kicks in on fords even if the AC is not selected and maybe I have a leak and he seemed to think it more than likely was not the air blend actuator or blend door.
I told him I had no idea that the AC compressor always kicks in even with it not selected. I knew it kicked in for AC and for defrots but didn't think it did for anything else. He said since the 90's all fords did. Well I get a call that after diagnosing the system, they believe the freon is low. I just have my doubts and wonder now if I should've just tried to take the air door actuator off and test along with sticking something in the air blend door whole and verifying it was moving.
I was hoping someone that knows more than me can verify if the AC compressor kicks in even when it is not selected when I have the temp selector set to low 60 degrees. Does it make sense that I would have hot air blowing out of the vents with the temp set on low even when it is cool outside. All of my temp controls work moving from defrost, vent to heat as I can feel blowing out of the different zones.
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Yesterday the AC worked fine, until I got off work. Then it was blowing as usual, but almost warm air, it wasn't enough to cool the car. When driving and I turn it on, I do see the RPM's lower slightly. A co-worker looked at the compressor and clutch while I turned it on and he said they both are working. He did not see any bubbles in the little window on the line though. The light on the control button is not blinking and the in cabin filter isn't dirty.
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My AC started blowing cool air last summer.My wife who drives it daily noticed that it wasn't as cold as when we first got it.I was making an appointment to take it in when the clock spring broke and we got all sorts of lights on the dashboard.It was still under warranty when I took it in and they gave us a loaner car.They told us that they changed the compressor,clock spring(which he said was a common thing to go on cars) there was also a trouble code on the turbo. That took them the longest to fix
.They ended up replacing a sensor and then found out it was bad wiring. Fast forward almost a year later and the weather is starting to get warm again here in NYC. I tested the AC and it is blowing cool air again. This time I put a thermometer in the center vent and it is blowing about 54.8 F after 5 minutes. The outside temp was 66.F. I called the dealer and took it in after work today and the service adviser said that 54.8 F was within range.I insisted that they keep it over night and have a tech check it and also do an oil change in the morning since it has 30K miles on it.I was time for one again. My question is... what the temperature range is for the AC in my Tiguan?
I made him give my wife another loaner (2016 Jetta) and when she got home I put the same thermometer in the center vent and it was blowing 40.2 F after 5 minutes.Much colder than my Tiguan. I want to make sure that they don't recharge the AC and we make it through the summer and we will be back to the dealer next year.This time the warranty will have expired.I don't have an extended warranty.I just got a bad vibe from this guy at the dealer.
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My ac cool only passanger side and driver side didn't cool blow only air.
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AC works, but only drops temp by 15 degrees. Pressures 40/150 after adding some 134a.
Compressor runs continuously at idle. (I don't know if this is correct or not.)
Not sure what the issue is.
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