Chevrolet - Trailblazer :: 2008 - Braking Sounds Like When Stop On Ice And ABS Applied
Aug 15, 2016
Recently had my brakes/rotors replaced on my 2008 chevy trailblazer. the problem is when slowing down to almost stopping the brakes sound like when you stop on ice and the ABS applies..The vehicle stops..but concerned what that feeling and noise is..After applying the gas it sounds like something is stuck? Occasionally my traction control light goes on?
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I have a 2008 trailblazer that the ac/heater doesn't always come on. When it does come on it wont stop blowing until the battery dies.
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2004 Trailblazer 6cy. 2WD - has been experiencing a very rough idle, engine shudders - no matter how long it's been warmed up. Wants to stall off red lights and at very low speeds. Not throwing any lights yet - but the speedo is out ( a cam shift typical problem for this car) so I don't trust the console for lights. Worse when the heat or air is on. Rides fine with more gas/higher speeds. Definitely worse in colder temps but continues even after 40-50 mins of driving. I've heard a number of things, but can't afford to fix them all. I've heard plugs, dirty throttle camshaft, sensors, cam actuator solenoid, etc. All seem to have people who said it fixed and didn't fix the issue. Worried I'm going to stall pulling off a stop and rear end someone any day now. Where do I start!?
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I have a 2008 Chevrolet Trailblazer. I have had 4 of these vehicles and have been very pleased. This latest one has 61000 miles and occasionally has a very strange vibration at speeds above 60 mph. It only happens occasionally and most often occurs at these higher speeds and worsens with increased speed (of 70-73 mph). The vibration is so alarming, that I will press my brakes to slow down, because it feels like the vehicle is starting to lose control. The problem is that when I press the brakes, the vibration intensifies about 3-4 fold! It feel as if the wheels are going to come off. It's a very frightening feeling. I have taken it to the shop and no one seems to know what it is. The tires are fine. Brakes are fine. Interestingly enough, if I lower the speed to 50-55 mph, the vibration lessens and eventually completely goes away.
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The battery on my 4.2 liter inline 6 2008 chevy trailblazer is draining without the key in the ignition. I have checked the alternator, fuses, and starter with no luck. What might be causing this problem?
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Trailblazer 2008. This has happened 6 or 8 times. When fuel tank is 1/4 full or less, decelerating downhill from 50 mph to make a right-hand turn, the engine stalls as I reach the turn. Of course I lose power steering and brakes.
If I stop in that downhill position, the fuel gauge reads ZERO but the Low Fuel light is not showing. Turning the key to restart does not restart the engine but if I roll to a flat piece of road or to an uphill position, the engine starts immediately on turning the key. The fuel gauge continues to show ZERO until I turn off the ignition completely and restart. Then the fuel gauge immediately returns to indicate 1/4 full.
No warning lights of any kind show on the dash. There is no question of the gauge showing a false 1/4 indication when the tank is actually empty, since I can drive for 30 miles after the incident while the gauge slowly drops lower until I fill up again with gas.
SOMETHING tells the engine it has no gas so it stops. No stutter or indication of fuel starvation. Simply an engine shut-off.
I tried to reproduce the effect immediately after it had happened by turning the car round and retracing the route, but it did not happen a second time at that location, but it did repeat a few hours later at another intersection.
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I have a 2008 Chevy Malibu. Lately when the engine is cold I will get to the end of the street and when I apply the brakes the car will make a clunking noise and a couple of times it has actually died and I have to restart the car. I only experience this the first thing in the morning, after that the car seems fine. I cannot tell if it is the brakes causing the problem or the transmission.
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I've got a 1982 automatic chevy 454 engine with only 46,000 miles on it (in my Winnebago RV). It runs just fine except each time I step on the gas pedal from a stopped position for an instant it sounds like the engine is about to die and then it starts going. Is this a major engine problem or something that requires minor adjustments? I want to sell the RV. If it's going to cost a lot to fix, I'd rather lower the price of the rig.
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2001 Chevy Silverado, 2wd, 5.3 engine, 232,000 miles, front hubs with integral sensors replaced about 20,000 miles ago. Now when I brake, and just before coming to a complete stop, the ABS kicks in. Doesn't happen if I brake hard. If I let up on the brake momentarily, it stops and the rest of the stop is smooth.
Sometimes the brake and ABS lights come on, but when I had the OBD hooked up, there were no stored codes, and the brake and ABS lights go off once you turn the ignition off and then restart the engine. I suspect the problem is with the sensors for the rear wheels, but don't know where they are located.
There are no wires going to the rear wheels or the axle. Tried pulling the fuse for the ABS system, but that makes the brake and ABS lights stay on constantly.
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I have a 2004 Trailblazer LS with the 4.2L I6 and this problem just recently started and I found this video on youtube of someone having the exact same problem. [URL] ....
This noise is only there in reverse and drive. If you put it in park or neutral it goes away. Also goes away if you give it some throttle while in gear.
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I've saw several complaints about 2008 Honda Accord Popping at low braking speeds and start from stop only in hot weather. I've never saw a solution.
This is the other persons complaint: My Honda has a pop or clunk when braking at low speeds( below 5mph) just before coming to a stop. It will pop as I start forward again (below 5mph). It only occurs when the outside temperature is above 90-95 degrees and after driving for 10-15 minutes.
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My 2003 TrailBlazer LT (regular wheelbase) has the following codes:
- C0265
-C0281
-C0267
-C0237
The ABS light is NOT on! Every once in a while, if braking lightly, the ABS kicks in. That is the only symptom of any problems at all.
My first thought is could this be a bad ground at the EBCM or does it look like my BCM is on it's way out? I am wrong all together it the problem is something else?
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2004 TB EXT. Replaced pads on all 4, installed new hardware kits front & rear, the anti-rattle clips even had the deluxe black coating on the back (mounting) surface to reduce noise. Occasionally squeaks under light braking at low speeds, such as approaching a stop. About 1 out of 4 stops it does this. Semi-Metallic pads. Irritating noise. Never had this happen before, put same brand & style of pads on my truck, no noise.
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So whenever I brake while reversing (and rarely while moving forwards) I hear this odd grinding noise coming from the front left wheel and can feel it through the brake. Im not a petrol head but I decided to replace a wheel bearing hub myself recently to save money. I am pretty sure I reconnected the anti lock brakes correctly though I doubt it's that. My brakes are good.
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I changed my plugs recently in my 2004 Chevrolet TrailBlazer 4.2l I6 with the coil on plug setup, and now it is misfiring and hesitating when I hit the gas. All the spark plugs have the proper gap and torqued down properly. I tried tightening down the ignition coils and on one I snapped the bolt. Of course my truck is staying parked until I replace the part which I have to order online. The only thing I can think of as far as the misfiring is not having a proper seat with the coils, my question is, how to get a better seating or if there are any other possible issues I could have over looked at all?
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I have a 2004 Trailblazer, and just recently the A/C just stop blowing. I have checked to relays and fuses and all are fine, I even checked the fan motor relay thinking that would work. I am at a lost right now and have no clue what else to check.
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The air conditioning in my 2002 Chevy Trailblazer works but never gets really cold. What is the best course of action to get it working better? A do it yourself kit or an auto repair shop?
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I have a 2002 trailblazer that will start fine in the morning and after it sits for an hour or two, but once i start it and run it for over ten minutes and i shut it off when i try to re-start it, it will crank but won't start. the dealer cleaned the throttle body and injectors, check the fuel pump for presure and it was fine,and they got no error codes?????? I've read that in can be the ignition switch??
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2012 Trailblazer 4x4. Got up this morning to go to work, no reverse gear. I pushed it out & drove to work (15 miles). Got to work & reverse works fine now. Drove home & parked. An hour later I go out & again, no reverse. What's going on?
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What are symptons of a "bad" drive shaft? Just curious because during a recent trip to the dealership for an oil change a mechanic told me I had one(I had mentioned I heard a noise that seemed to speed up and slow down as I drove-kind of a whirring noise). He arrived at that diagnosis by pushing down on the hood with enough force to make the vehicle(2002 Chevy Trail Blazer w/4wd) bounce up and down - there was a clunking noise. I haven't taken it in to have it looked at more closely, mainly because I am afraid of the cost. What's involved in replacing a drive shaft? What's the cost? If it is really "bad" will it break suddenly and cause an accident?
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I have a 2005 v-6 and when I first start my car, its makes a real high pitch whining sound that will last for about 10 sec. before it starts to whine down.Then after that, its ok. It will not make any noise after that when I start it unless it sits for any length of time (6 to 8 hrs.) What might be the problem and If Its something I could fix myself?
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