The battery on my 4.2 liter inline 6 2008 chevy trailblazer is draining without the key in the ignition. I have checked the alternator, fuses, and starter with no luck. What might be causing this problem?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2008 F150 that the battery drains after sitting 4 days or longer. This has happened about a dozen times since I bought the truck and the dealer could never figure out why. Warranty is up now and it is STILL happening! I had corporate office insult me by telling me everything "checks out" and it is just like a cell phone. If you don't periodically charge it up, the battery dies. I asked her where I was supposed to plug my truck in at night and there was silence on the other end. I am 62 and have never had a car or truck do this from just sitting. The dealer insists everything checks out.
View 14 RepliesSo I got a 2008 model, only owner. It has 107K miles. I've noticed something the last couple months now. When I park the car in the garage after coming home from work it has a full charge, about 3 bars below top, it's at the max of the blue color.
When I start the car in the morning it still displays the same level. But after driving down the road about 3 blocks it seems to update slowly and drops the level, sometimes down to the brown, about 3 bars high. The car will run rough for a while almost every morning now since it's not using the hybrid battery to smooth things out.
Ever since owning the car I've noticed it can run rough sometimes normally, like when you're at a train crossing and the battery drops to 2 or 3 and the engine powers on to charge it up a bit. When I drive away you hear the engine a lot louder than usual as it seems to be running on engine only until the hybrid battery gets sufficiently charged and you feel a lack of power as you accelerate.
have an issue with my 03 trailblazer. i have the problem of no start when key turned to start position. actually nothing happens when the key is turned to start position. dash comes on when key is turned to on pos tho. took battery off and had it tested and it is at full charge. took starter off and had it tested and it passed. checked ignition relay cavities per this youtube video "Chevy Trailblazer no crank testing and information" and there is no light when touching the ground request cavity and turning the key to start position.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2008 trailblazer that the ac/heater doesn't always come on. When it does come on it wont stop blowing until the battery dies.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2008 Chevrolet Trailblazer. I have had 4 of these vehicles and have been very pleased. This latest one has 61000 miles and occasionally has a very strange vibration at speeds above 60 mph. It only happens occasionally and most often occurs at these higher speeds and worsens with increased speed (of 70-73 mph). The vibration is so alarming, that I will press my brakes to slow down, because it feels like the vehicle is starting to lose control. The problem is that when I press the brakes, the vibration intensifies about 3-4 fold! It feel as if the wheels are going to come off. It's a very frightening feeling. I have taken it to the shop and no one seems to know what it is. The tires are fine. Brakes are fine. Interestingly enough, if I lower the speed to 50-55 mph, the vibration lessens and eventually completely goes away.
View 1 RepliesTrailblazer 2008. This has happened 6 or 8 times. When fuel tank is 1/4 full or less, decelerating downhill from 50 mph to make a right-hand turn, the engine stalls as I reach the turn. Of course I lose power steering and brakes.
If I stop in that downhill position, the fuel gauge reads ZERO but the Low Fuel light is not showing. Turning the key to restart does not restart the engine but if I roll to a flat piece of road or to an uphill position, the engine starts immediately on turning the key. The fuel gauge continues to show ZERO until I turn off the ignition completely and restart. Then the fuel gauge immediately returns to indicate 1/4 full.
No warning lights of any kind show on the dash. There is no question of the gauge showing a false 1/4 indication when the tank is actually empty, since I can drive for 30 miles after the incident while the gauge slowly drops lower until I fill up again with gas.
SOMETHING tells the engine it has no gas so it stops. No stutter or indication of fuel starvation. Simply an engine shut-off.
I tried to reproduce the effect immediately after it had happened by turning the car round and retracing the route, but it did not happen a second time at that location, but it did repeat a few hours later at another intersection.
Recently had my brakes/rotors replaced on my 2008 chevy trailblazer. the problem is when slowing down to almost stopping the brakes sound like when you stop on ice and the ABS applies..The vehicle stops..but concerned what that feeling and noise is..After applying the gas it sounds like something is stuck? Occasionally my traction control light goes on?
View 9 RepliesI've been having lots of electrically problems with my 2007 Camry SE v6 for the last 3 years. First, the car drains quickly if i leave the key in the ignition while the car is off. Secondly, I have gone through 3 batteries over the past 3 years. Previously, what use to happen is that my cars warning lights would start to come on such as the brakes ABS and battery lights, the head lights would be dim. Then just not start (just fast clicks when ign is turned). I would jump it and it wiukd run for a few more days and die again.
So I'd replace the battery and thing would be fine with the car for a year. Then it would start again, and i'd replace the battery and it would be good for another year. I use to buy costco batteries. This time I tried Bosch. After 4 months with the Bosch, the same thing is happening. My battery light came on, then my abs light. And now my lights are dimming. Earlier, it was just the battery light but everything, including the lights were ok. Im sure I'm sure I'm going to need to jump it next time I start the car. I took it to Toyota last time, and it cost be an arm and a leg to diagnose. They said its just a bad battery.
Every once and awhile when I take off in the c the car drains the battery like it gets stuck in ev mode. The ev light will be off and the ice will be running but from a dead stop take off, the instant Mpg will read between 50 and 75 Mpg till it drains the battery gauge .
After the drain it works normal charges the drained battery and might not happen again for a couple of hours or a month there is no time period it happens.
Does this sound like a normal hybrid behavior? That's what I thought at first but because of the inconsistency of the behavior.
I'm new to this technology. I bought 2008 t spirit prius . The battery drains in couple of miles. I don't know what to check .
View 5 RepliesIf I leave the radar detector on for two or three days and don't drive the car, the battery is so low it will not start the car. It is a 2005 Touareg with 25,000 miles. Can the battery be tested with the terminals under the hood, or does it have to be accessed under the seat?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2004 touareg v6. When the weather drops below 40 degrees, the rear park lights come on and the battery drains. Is there a fix for this?
View 3 RepliesRan my battery down on my car when I left my lights on and proceeded to work an 8-hour shift.
Came out and stuck my key in the ignition. Nothing happened, which is when I realized my plight. The dang ignition wouldn't release my key! This meant I couldn't get into the trunk by key. I pressed the (stupidly electric) remote trunk lock. That's where the jumper cables are! Did I mention it was below freezing and I wasn't dressed for sustained outdoor shenanigans?
Fortunately, I was able to flag down co-workers with jumper cables, after a time. We opened the hood--praises, they actually left a cable-actuated device on the car!--and got going. None the less, it was a close scare.
1) Why does the ignition "grab" the key without battery power?
2) How does one defeat 1)?
3) Is it necessary to store my jumper cables INSIDE the car?
4) What mental giant decided a trunk latch that's INOP with a dead battery was a good idea?
I have a decent working understanding of a lock cylinder--6 or so spring-loaded wafers that retract into the cylinder body, allowing it to turn--but I don't see how that requires current flow to work. If it's a "safety" feature, how do I disable it, permanently?
Mom's 2002 Lincoln Continental has 80,000 miles. Recently she's noticed that after she exits the vehicle the brake lights will come on by themselves and stay on until it drains the battery. It has only done that once in her garage. It baffled us as to why her brand new battery was dead. We charged it and she drove it and it was fine. Where she works, she can see her car from her desk. Her brake lights just came on by themselves. How she remedies this is by going out and tap once on the brake pedal and light goes out and stays out. She only seems to notice it coming on right after she parks and gets out. Then, like I said, she can tap the brake pedal and make light go out and stay out.
View 4 RepliesIn comparing the battery drains on a Camry hybrid versus a Prius Gen II hybrid I discovered both have three stages of battery drains after a door open incident. On a Gen II Right after the door is open the drain was 1.37 amps.
View 11 RepliesKeys get stuck in ignition lose all power have replaced ignition and shifter?
View 1 RepliesI am the (once) proud owner of a 2008 Chevrolet Impala. I have owned the car for one year, putting only 12,000 miles on it (was 109,000 when I bought it.) The car has run quite well—I have not had any problems out of it (unlike the 1999-2005 generation Impalas). But, as many of you may have heard, GM had some massive recalls as of late. Many of the cars have had fatal ignition switch failures. Basically every single Impala in the last (my) generation has been recalled.
Take any other keys/paraphernalia off of the chain—basically, just insert the key into the ignition, unattached to anything. This is the fix for the time being, apparently—until they can get ignition switches for however many hundred thousand Impalas they have to fix.
I am about to make a 3 hour drive. Now, that wouldn't be the longest drive that I have made in this car (and I cringe at the idea that, driving 17 hours with a bunch of crap hanging off of my chain, that my car easily could have been one of the unfortunate ones.)
Now that I know that I cannot be sure of the safety of my vehicle, I need to know what to do in the case of an emergency. I want to know what exactly the situation of an ignition switch failure entails...basically, what happens to my car and my ability to control the car. Lastly, I need to know what to do if this happens.
So this has happened to me a few times now in the cold temps. For my job I'm left to sit and idle every now and then after over an hour of driving.
I'll park my car, ICE will turn off, ICE temp at 195. Sit with heat on at 65 degrees. After about 10 minutes the engine temp will drop to about 110, which the ICE will start and warm up to about 135 and turn off. Hybrid battery stays above 55% and normally hits about 65% on every ICE start. (I have extra instrumentation installed to monitor)
A recently purchased 2001 volkswagen jetta. The car was working fine when purchased. It was sitting parked for about a month without being driven. Went to start the car and the battery was right dead. Started looking online and seen a dead battery can set the immobillizer system off. So figured if the battery was replaced with one that was charged everything would be good, it would just need the immobillizer reset. So the battery was replaced one that was charged and working. I was expecting the dash to have the little car with key in it light that tells you the system is active, and instead of the car not turning over at all that it would turn over start for split second then stall like its suppose to when in that mode. Instead, there is no light in the dash and it still doesn't turn over at all.
After about 15-30 minutes, I decided to check the battery with a battery tester again to make sure was all good. Now, when the load of the tester was put on the battery it dropped down to 10-11v. Keep in mind with the tester, before being put in the car, it tested fine with a load put on it. So I looked online again and found that is common with this car as well.
So now Im not exactly sure what to so. From what Iv read, I think I should pull every fuse, one at a time and test with ammeter and see if one of them is draining the battery. And if everything tests good there, that it must be a bad ground somewhere?
My 2006 Nissan Hardbody does not want to start in the mornings. Ive established that this is due to a parasidic battery drain. Ive narrowed it down to the power windows. As soon as i take out the power window fuse the amp drainage reduces dramatically. Ive taken of the door panels and disconnected the switches, however the drainage remains. What else could i check.
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