Chevrolet - Trailblazer :: 2003 - After Sitting For A While Won't Crank But Turns Over?
Oct 1, 2012
When I go to crank my car in the morning or after its been sitting for a while... It turns over but won't crank but when I turn it back and immediately crank it again it cranks right up...
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The ac condenser unit will click every 7 seconds followed by a 3 to 400 rpm surge for 5 seconds or so, drop rpm then repeat. Belt looks fine, no slipping, new plugs a month ago, newish air and gas filter, does it in neutral or drive, read many ideas from low or high freon, iac, throttle body cleaning, o2 sensor? no codes thrown. Maybe coincidental but was discussing o2 upstream sensor recently on this board. The car experiences the same symptoms while driving.
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2003 Trailblazer 4.2... Two times now, like every other start oil pressure gauge is 0. The engine runs fine, oil level is fine, thinking of replacing pressure switch, ie sending unit after checking connections of course
. Was curious this is a simulated pressure gauge as I read on some other posts?
Supposedly the gauge unlike the stepper motor I need to replace for the speedometer is actually voltage controlled by a circuit board in the cluster.
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Having trouble turning my wheel both ways on my trail blazer. Just replaced wheel bearings on truck not sure what would causing this. Also tries are wearing down..
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Speedometer in 2003 Trailblazer is showing wrong speed intermittently. Seems to be a known problem to GM. Is this something I can fix myself?
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I am having problems with my 97 F150 6cyl. A couple of months ago, I noticed the truck after sitting for a few days without being started would not crank. After some trial and error, I found that turning the ignition switch on and off several times did the trick and the truck would crank right up. I was thinking this might be a fuel pump or fuel filter issue but, I'm not sure.
A couple of days ago I was going to drive the truck and did the ignition switch deal as usual and the truck cranked up but, there shortly after while just idling the motor died. I have tried and tried to crank it and it want start back. After thinking on it, I don't know if this is a fuel problem or not, or maybe even the ignition box.
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I just replaced spark plugs and now it is running rough and reduced engine power light is on. did not mix up wires or coil packs. did one at a time.
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My 03' Passat 1.8 won't start. It turns over and cranks. When I'm doing that, all the lights on the dash flash off and on (including hazards), the overhead light flashes and I can hear a click, click in the same time as the flashing. Seems like it must be some sort of electrical problem. Maybe a bad relay or fuse.
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When I'm sitting still in traffic or going up a hill the temp gauge will go up. But it goes up real slow. You can set and watch temp gauge and it will just jump up every minute or so. And it has 2 fans on it but they won't kick on till temp gauge gets up over the half way mark. But when temp goes up i can raise the hood and the motor does not feel hot at all. What could cause this?
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If I leave my truck sit for a couple of days, the batteries are noticeably weaker. It's fine overnight, but two nights and it's slow to crank. Three and it won't start without charging the batteries. I checked for a drain last night and found that it was drawing 1.2 amps.
That seems like a lot, no?
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After short trip, 02 f-150 v-6 will not crank every time but engine turns over. When it does crank, it runs fine the entire trip. 189,000 miles on motor and is a 4x2 extended cab.
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have an issue with my 03 trailblazer. i have the problem of no start when key turned to start position. actually nothing happens when the key is turned to start position. dash comes on when key is turned to on pos tho. took battery off and had it tested and it is at full charge. took starter off and had it tested and it passed. checked ignition relay cavities per this youtube video "Chevy Trailblazer no crank testing and information" and there is no light when touching the ground request cavity and turning the key to start position.
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Just replaced fuel pump and now it turns over but won't crank. I have checked the fuel rail. Pressure is fine. Checked coil pack I'm getting spark. Still won't crank. Checked inertia switch it wasn't tripped. What next? 2003 Ranger edge...
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I just got a 1998 F150 5.4l 4x4 autotragic. Was sold to me as needing trans, wouldn't start. Tossed in a new starter and solenoid, now I can hear the the starter turn crank pulley turns maybe a quarter inch and when I let off the starter it goes back to the same spot.
Fear is motor is locked, but question (i don't know automatics) is there any way that a bad trans could keep a motor from turning over? Truck rolls in neutral or drive, pulled the drain plug no water just oil. Tempted to just buy a running 5.4 with trans but if I can avoid that I'd prefer to.
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My son's mother has a 2004 Trail Blazer EXT. 4.2 I-6. Vehicle is 800 miles away, so I can't do much from here, at least until I get home in 2 weeks. Check Engine Light came on, she said it has been running a bit rough. I told her to go to AutoZone and have the trouble codes pulled. It only flagged the P0014. Additional comments say:ECM has detected the camshaft phase angle has exceeded it's tolerance value.Probable causes:
1. Loose Cam or Crank sensor.
2. Excessive Timing Chain Free Play.
3. Blocked oil passage in the cam actuator assy or engine.
4. Incorrect oil quality or viscosity.
I can rule out # 4, it has Valvoline synthetic 5/30 in it. Been using that for several years. It is not quite due for a change, but I plan on changing it when I get there. Vehicle has been well-maintained, has about 120K miles on it.
I was advised the Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Actuator Solenoid assy probably needs to be replaced. In searching the AF forums, that seems to be the most likely culprit. I will check the cam & crank sensors first, to make sure they are not loose, connections clean, etc.I've heard that the Power Steering Pump will need to be rotated out of the way to gain adequate clearance to remove the actuator, but other than that, the job is fairly simple. Some have said part is only available from GM, (and I would prefer putting a GM part in there, rather than a Chinese knock-off). Would this be a normally-stocked item at the dealer parts counter, or special order? I will only be home for 3 days, so I need to make sure the part will be available before I get there. Just wondering if there are any "gotcha's" or other components I may need to replace while doing the job, or any special tools? How is that assembly retained - by a bolt, clamp, clip, etc? Do I need to order a gasket for it as well? Supposedly the debris screens can come apart in that assy, which can cause the failure. How does one go about cleaning any of that screen debris out of the engine while the unit is removed? (Or does it stay in the old part that is being replaced)?
Also, she wants to make sure it will be ok to drive the vehicle for about 10 days, without causing any damage? (She has a 10-15 mile commute each way, no highway driving).
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I drive a 2003 Chevy Cavalier with approximately 75,000 miles on it, and it has always run exceptionally well. However, during the last couple of months it has developed what I would consider a lower-pitched "whine" or "groan" emanating from the front of the car when making a turn. Here are a few specifics:
-The noise is more pronounced on tighter turns and/or when moving at a faster speed. For example, doing a U-turn causes the noise to be very pronounced; turning into a parking space at a very low speed barely creates any noticeable noise at all.-The noise seems to be worse when making a left turn than when making a right turn, however turning either direction can create the noise.-The noise seems to have gotten slightly more pronounced over time--that is, it doesn't seem to have been triggered by a single event such as running over a pothole.
I am not particularly well-versed in diagnosing car problems, particularly when it involves anything to do with the drive train (which is what I suspect here). Some rudimentary internet research seems to point towards a damaged or failing CV joint in one of the front wheels, although this has not been properly diagnosed. Thus, my questions are as follows:
-What is the likely source of the noise? Is a damaged CV joint the most likely explanation, or is this explainable in other ways?-How serious of a problem is this? If indeed it is the CV joint, my understanding is that this is an issue that needs to be addressed promptly as it could quickly become a dangerous situation (some reports indicate that the wheel(s) might come off while driving).
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I am having trouble starting my 2009 camry when the car has been sitting for a while. When I try turning it over I crank it about 4-5 second stop and do it again and the car turns on the second try. When it turns on there is a strong fuel odor. If I punch the gas pedal when cranking it will turn on also. There is no engine light on and battery is good.
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I changed my plugs recently in my 2004 Chevrolet TrailBlazer 4.2l I6 with the coil on plug setup, and now it is misfiring and hesitating when I hit the gas. All the spark plugs have the proper gap and torqued down properly. I tried tightening down the ignition coils and on one I snapped the bolt. Of course my truck is staying parked until I replace the part which I have to order online. The only thing I can think of as far as the misfiring is not having a proper seat with the coils, my question is, how to get a better seating or if there are any other possible issues I could have over looked at all?
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So I have this super cool little green 2001 prius with a brand spankin rebuilt battery and it's running as well as I could have hoped.
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I have a 2008 trailblazer that the ac/heater doesn't always come on. When it does come on it wont stop blowing until the battery dies.
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The air conditioning in my 2002 Chevy Trailblazer works but never gets really cold. What is the best course of action to get it working better? A do it yourself kit or an auto repair shop?
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