Chevrolet - Tracker :: Engine Is Slow To Decelerate When Lift Foot From Throttle Pedal
Sep 12, 2016
I drive a '99 Chevy Tracker with the 2Liter engine, a 5 speed manual transmission and 110K mi. on it. When I lift my foot from the throttle pedal in preparing to shift gears the engine takes a very long time to reduce it's RPM. This is a problem, when up shifting, as the transmission is spinning too fast for smooth gear engagement.
The engine idles normally under all other circumstances. It is only slow to decelerate whenever I lift my foot from the throttle pedal. This makes up shifting very slow and/or causes the gears to sometimes grind slightly.
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I have a 98 Chevy Tracker 1.6 auto. My OBD reader shows engine load @ 25% in park at idle. What would cause this.
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2003 Chevy Tracker 4 cylinder. Engine rebuilt and cannot get lifters to quiet down. Replaced 3 times. Bent valves on first install.
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I have an '02 Tracker and I've noticed if I have several accessories running, that my engine will start to sputter and come to the verge of stalling when I come to a stop. It happens if I have the heat/air and radio or charging my phone on together. What is the cause and/or remedy for this? I've changed the alternator a few yrs. back, but it still continued.
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Alright here comes another head scratcher, the car has no check engine lights, no oil is leaking, and all of the liquid levels are at their normal readings. The problem I am having is the car feels like it is dragging a bit, as in it takes a bit to accelerate and as soon as I lift my foot off the gas it drastically slows down.
Talk about 0 to 60 in 30 seconds and 60 to 30 in 5 seconds. Now what I have noticed is every time I pass a radar detecting sign, to make sure you are going the speed limit or slower, which in this case it is supposed to be 25 mph, my speedometer will read 30 to 35 mph, but the sign will state I am going 23 or 24 mph.
I know the detector is working because I tested it with my dad's Buick and while the Buick stated 20 the detector also stated 20, I know what you are saying maybe it's just a fluke, well I tested the detector with my brothers cougar, my sisters Honda, and my friends Chrysler and they all stated 20 both on speedometer and the detector. I have changed the spark plugs, the ecm, the ignition coil, the spark plug wires, starter, the valve cover gasket, hoses that were broken, the speed sensor, cam shaft position sensor and it passed the state inspection.
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I bought new 2009 maibu, changed oil every 3000, never had problem with car. Just thought because I have200k miles would be good to clean heads, had dealer put ina BG product. About 2 weeks after that the car see muffled and the gas peddle is slow to react,. Now six months later I am starting to smell gas. My guess catalytic converter.
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My 2007 Chevy Impala with the 6-cyl engine is, overall, a nice car. One thing I just do not like about it, though, is the electronic throttle. There is a quite annoying lag between acceleration on the gas pedal and response from the car It isn't just my car, all the Impalas and other cars I test drove when shopping for the car are the same way. Even the 2007 Buick with the last year of the 3.8 L engine had a touch of lag time compared to the 1987 Olds Cierra I had with its 3.8 L engine and mechanical throttle. I'm no lead foot but when I want acceleration I want it now and not later. Guess I got spoiled from 20 years driving the '87 with its giddy up and go.
When making left turns without a traffic light, I have to allow a much wider open slot in oncoming traffic than I ever did since driving the 1973 Toyota Corolla with its four weak hamsters under the hood. I'm not the only person I've heard gripe about electronic throttle. I have to wonder what about drive by wire is superior to mechanical throttle if it slows down the throttle response so noticably???
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Changed timing belt after several teeth being stripped. Engine runs but won't idle without foot on gas pedal. Drives smooth as long above 2000 rpm. Thinking there is one or more slightly bent valves. Quadruple checked timing marks. Coils are good. Fuel injectors are good. Spark plugs are new NGK's. DTC's are 0300, 0301, 0302, 0303, 0304 - misfiring.
Have a line on a low mileage head with warranty. 2007 Accent 1.6L?
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Have a 1977 ford f150 with 351m with a motorcraft 2150. Had ( who I believe was a reliable source ) rebuild carburetor for me and after putting back on I can only keep engine running with foot on pedal. I turn idle mixture screws all way in and then proceeded to back out equally. This does not appear to be doing anything. I did turn the choke 2 notches to lean and was able to get it to idle but it wasloping so bad i shut it down and put the choke back to the middle setting.
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My 2000 Chevy Tracker will not go into reverse. Had tranmission drained and cleaned. Still won't go into reverse. Does this model have a separate reverse cable?
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As the title says, I have an 02 Supercrew with the 5.4. The engine starts when cold and runs fine but sometimes when I start it hot after running for a bit, it will stall out unless I keep my foot on the gas pedal. This seems to only happen on hot days. It was about 90 F here yesterday and I drove it to a shopping mall after supper - maybe 5 miles. It sat for maybe 20 minutes and when I re-started it, it stalled out.
The tach needle just drops slowly to zero and the engine stops. It will re-start without any problem but will only keep running if I keep my foot on the gas and keep the revs up a bit. It has done this a few times in the past few years and only on hot days after it has been running and then sat for a few minutes.
What I should look at? It does not throw any codes and generally runs ok after a few minutes. For example, last night I managed to keep it going by shifting into neutral when required until I got back on the road. I drove 2 or 3 miles and at the next light, it acted like nothing happened.
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my 2002 Chevy Tracker has run faithfully for the last 5-6 years. a few things have come up recently that have needed to be replaced, but nothing huge. after my AC compressor was replaced, my car started powering off in the middle of driving (not while revving engine standing still). mostly on cold starts, but now more frequently. mechanic swears it has nothing to do with AC compressor.
But he is checking drive train today. He has changed the tranny fluid, fuel filter, cleaned the gas tank, cleaned the throttle body (IAC motor), cleaned the mass airflow filter sensor, checked the battery voltage in case of an alternator problem. he has scanned the vehicle while driving and sitting still several times and no codes come up.
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How hard is it to replace the gas pedal on a 2012 Tiguan SE? My factory gas pedal makes a creaking sound when I accelerate/decelerate. Took it to VW and they are not going to do anything about it.
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My 2002 Chevy Tracker recently has been running poorly after consuming a 1/4 tank of gas. The check engine light comes on the scan tool reports P0171 and P0174 bank 1 and 2 lean(it's a 2.5 liter V-6). If I remove and replace the gas cap it runs better but not perfect. Once I use another 1/4 tank the symptoms return. I have noticed the cap is hard to remove lately. This has been going on for two weeks It's been to 2 garages one of them told me my catalytic converters are plugged up and wanted 2500 to fix .
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2003 Chevy Tracker (same as Suzuki Gran Vitara) v6 2.5L
For about a year, it has had belt squeal on starting, which lasts about 5 minutes..it's louder when AC was on..would go away with higher RPMs. Once the car was warmed though, no squeal. Ac has been working very well and blowing cold whole time. Finally it around to replacing belt, which was a difficult.
Tightened with an idler pulley type system(not spring loaded). Started it up, squealed a little on start, but went away..turned on AC and the squeal is horribly loud now and constant..high rpms only make it louder. Noticed that clutch engages fine, but spins inconsistently..like we'll the belt is slipping. It spins slow, fast, slow..etc. I can't tighten anymore as the tightening bolt is at the end of the channel, don't want to strip it. Also noted that it is about a bolt head width more tight than its previous position.
Surely changing the belt wouldn't cause the clutch to bite it would it?
Other notes...drives great when ac is not on. This is an acc only belt..ac,idler,power steering. Also, during the repair, antifreeze got on the pulleys..I cleaned them all around with generous spray of brake cleaner..they look clean.
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The problem started several months ago. At first it would only happen once in a while and would only last about 5 mins. The first time it happened I had it towed to my shop and it ran fine when it got there. Go figure. They told me they couldn't diagnose it if it wasn't acting up while they had it. Makes sense. But it never does it when I'm there for routine maintenance. Now it's doing it for twenty minutes at a crack. It's usually fine around town unless I get stuck in stop and go traffic. When it usually acts up is when I get on the road between work and home.
Every time I stop for gas I have to wait for it to decide it wants to start again. All of this is putting heavy wear on my starter. I changed the oxygen sensor (position no. 01), because that was the only error code that showed up. That didn't fix it. My mechanic says he thinks the next best step might be the cam and/or crank sensor. If not that, then he thinks we should change out the brain. Somebody else said it might be the fuel pump goin out. because I travel too far for work and I can't afford to fix things that probably won't solve the problem.
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For 8 or 9 months now the dash lights and headlights on my 2001Chevy Tracker are dimming (more like flickering but they don't go completely out). It is not the alternator - it has been checked. For a period of 4 orso months in between the beginning of this and now - the dimming stopped and now it's back. The only thing I can correlate to the dimming stopping was I had to have my car jumped because I left the headlights on and the dimming seemed to stop for the long period of time.
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I have a 2005 Chevy Aveo - It makes a creaking sound when I accelerate or decelerate. It seems to be coming from the passenger side of the car - What might be causing the sound?
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My 2005 Chevy Aveo makes a creaking sound when I accelerate or decelerate -It seems to come from the passenger side of the car, but it's not the seat. What might cause the creaking sound?
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98 tracker with 5 speed manual transmission has new clutch pressure plate throwout bearing and shit cable. strictly mechanical clutch mechanism drive for about 30 minutes and clutch goes away and unable to shift gears. let it sit overnight will work until about 30 minutes of drive time when everything has a chance to heat up...
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I'm having trouble with the headlights on my 2003 Chevy Tracker. When it's light out, my headlights come on automatically when I release the parking brake, but turn off if I turn the switch that would normally turn them on. When it is dark out, or I drive under a bridge etc, they turn off and I can't manually turn them on. I can "flash" my headlights, but if I turn them on as if to leave them on, they don't turn on. This problem started about the same time that my AC blower stopped working, so I replaced the blower motor resistor and all fuses (I've heard that the blower motor resistor is also involved with the headlights). This fixed the AC, but had no effect on the headlights.
I can trick the lights into turning on at night only by shining a bright light directly on the sensor - they turn back off as soon as I remove the light. I took it to Pep Boys for a basic electrical diagnostic to see if I might be missing something silly, but once I described the problem they wouldn't even bother - told me to take it to the dealer and have the body regulator module reprogrammed.
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