Chevrolet - Tahoe :: Brakes Making Grinding Sound When Come To A Stop
Mar 4, 2013
I have fairly new brakes on my 97 Chevy Tahoe with 202,000+ miles. For the last several months when I come to a stop, sometimes the brakes make a grinding sound (or 'boy-yoi-yong' sound- it's hard to tell) and the brake pedal feels like it 'slips' although the brakes do always stop the car. The brake don't always do this but it happens at least once or twice a day. Sometimes the problems is very mild, other times it's very noticeable. have it checked by two mechanics and they can't get the brakes to misbehave so they can't find the problem. All they did was flush the brake fluid twice and tell me it MIGHT be the master cylinder or the ABS system. My husband got laid off from his job and I am disabled. We can't afford to start fixing everything the mechanics THINK might be wrong with the brakes.
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I have a 2006 Subaru Forester with 115K miles. It's been well-maintained and well-loved.
For the past few months, the brakes have been inconsistently making a dragging/grinding noise when coming to a stop at low speeds (<5mph). It sounds to be coming from the front half of the car - I can feel it vibrating a little near the driver side. We've taken the car in to be looked at three times - each time, the mechanics think they've heard the noise and report there is absolutely nothing wrong with the brake pads or rotors. Twice they reported a shim was out of alignment. After the last shim adjustment, the noise got a little better - instead of grinding, it's more of a dragging sound now. Because the noise is inconsistent, I haven't been able to crack the formula of the conditions that produce it, other than that it only happens as I'm coming to a stop at very low speeds.
Is there something besides the brakes we should be having inspected? Does this sound safe to drive?
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I have a 2003 Impala, total mileage little of 122,000 miles, I bought the car back in Dec 2014. When I bought the car I got all the paper work on the work the dealership did on the car prior to me buying it. One of the things they did was put new brakes and rotors on the front. Since then I have replaced the backs. However after about 4-5 months I notices that from the front passenger side when I had to slam on the brakes or was braking from high speed I would hear a grinding sound coming from that area. I have taken it to two places and both have inspected both the wheels and rotor's and say they are fine, they commented that the pads were not the best but more then adequate for this car. Of course when they drove it around it didn't happen and it doesn't always happen. Both places said it could be the pads or rotors but without replacing them there is no real way to tell. How can they both be viewed as good and in good condition and I get this grinding sound from the one front wheel from time to time when I break.
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Back in December i purchased a 2003 Impala LS. It has about 103,000 miles on it now. Overall the car runs and drives great. However on very rare occasions I have noticed if I have to slam on the brakes or really break hard I hear a grinding sound. Now I have only heard it maybe 3 times in the time since buying the car and never hear anything under normal braking. I had the brakes checked and was told they didn't see anything wrong, but what might cause this grinding sound I have heard a few times?
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So, last week I got my transmission replaced and they also had to replace the CV axle because it was damaged beyond repair when the Transmission self-distructed. They drove it after all the repairs and said it was driving fine, just that it had a belt squeak.
On my way home (30 min drive) about 10 minutes in, still in the city, my brakes start making a grinding noise and sort of a thump thump thump when I brake which sounds like its coming from the passenger side front, it makes me really nervous. It doesn't sound like any brake grindy noise Ive ever heard before and it wasn't making any brake noises before it broke down. (On a side note: it also made a weird noise maybe the first 3 times I drove it after getting it back and I turned the wheel hard to back out of a parking space, that used to be when I heard the belt squeak but I haven't made it squeak since I got the car back.)
Everyone I talked to said it sounded like it needed new pads so tonight I bought new brake pads and rotors for the front and got everything taken apart. The rotors didn't look bad at all, just some light surface scratches, nothing deep, no warping I could see, and the brake pads look almost brand new. I did notice that the inside brake pad on the passenger side was missing its little metal plate that is usually between the caliper and the pad, so I went ahead and replaced all of the brake pads hoping this lost metal plate was the issue.
I also turned the rotor by hand on each side while the brake pads were off and the only difference I could notice was when turning the passenger side one it made a little more noise almost like it was loose.
I got everything put back together and drove around the neighborhood with my boyfriend in the car to listen, the grinding noise was gone and it seemed to brake really well (never got above 30 mph.) However, on my way to return the rotors to advanced auto (45-50 mph) it started making the thump thump thump noise but without the grinding, still on the passenger side. I can feel it in the gas pedal and now it not only happens when I'm braking, but also any time I let my foot off the gas pedal. The only time I dont feel/hear it is when I'm accelerating.
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I noticed yesterday a sound, like a grinding sound, *sometimes* as I apply the brakes to stop. I'm at 68k. The noise only happens when the brakes are applied so I suspect there is an issue with my brakes again.
Some BACKGROUND info: At around 60k (or 8 months ago roughly), the front pads were replaced after the brakes were squealing and a pulsating brake pedal when stopping. The pads were replaced by a dealer. In addition, both front/rear rotors were turned at the same time. Rear pads had 40% at the time and were not replaced.
Some weeks later the pulsation came back and I went back again and they machined them again. For this current issue I was thinking about taking the car to someplace local (not a dealer) and getting a free brake evaluation of what is going on.
I'm also concerned that all this machining the dealer did to eliminate the pulsation may have decreased the life of the rotors and perhaps they need replacement now.
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The brakes on my 2007 Hyundai Elantra make a grinding sound (almost like finger nails on wood) when I have tried to stop in icy conditions. It's also hard to get the car to stop and I end up pumping the brake. A Hyundai dealer replaced the front brakes over a year ago and Adirondack tire replaced back brake pads in the summer. Is the noise part of the anti-lock feature or does it sound like a problem?
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I drive a 2004 chevy Tahoe and have had this problem for about 8 months. It started out very faint and occasional, but has now escalated to loud and consistent. So it ONLY happens when turning right. I've tried to replicate it when turning left and had no success. It happens when I am turning fairly hard at a decent speed. ex. Pulling into my driveway. I've already checked the wheel bearings and Ball joints.
Another thing is that the ABS light is on sometimes when i start the car and comes on every time i turn the steering wheel all the way to the right. It also has a problem where it will shake almost uncontrollably when driving at 65+MPH after hitting a bump or sometimes just randomly on a smooth surface. We just got new tires and balanced them. It did the same with the previous set we had. I know I'm asking for a lot, but where to start?
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I have a 98 chevy tahoe and the truck seems to make a strange noise sometimes when applying the brakes. I can feel (sorta) the noise in the brake pedal. Is this something that needs a scan to find out where it's coming from?
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Have a 1996 Chevy Tahoe (305) Engine having engine cranking problems. It makes a slight grinding noise when normally starting. But sometimes it the noise is loud and seems to lock or seize during cranking. I tried shimming it without success, the gear even stuck in the flywheel. I had the starter rebuilt when the bendix stopped engaging the flywheel. I bought this PU second hand and the flywheel cover had been removed as if this truck has had existing starter problems. Also the flywheel teeth look ok.
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So far, I have a small fortune into fixing this / related problems. I'll state what we've done and what is currently happening. I've taken it to my normal mechanic several times, I'm looking for additional opinions because they basically have no idea. This is on our 2003 Chevy Tahoe, my wife's daily driver, and what my kids are normally riding in. It only has about 60K actual miles on it and is a flex fuel model, if that matters.
Originally, the truck would have trouble starting. Cranking, but no ignition. Waiting a a few seconds, try to crank again and it would start up. This went on for about a week and then it stopped cranking cranking at all. Had it towed to our mechanic. PCM B fuse was blown. Replaced PCM B Fuse (20A) and it blew again after starting. It died while trying to idle. They did some voltage drop tests, seemed good. I'm not sure they did any current tests at the fuel pump which is on that fuse. Ended up there for 4 days (yes, lots of labor) and leaving with no real clue, but a 25A fuse would work.
A week later,we were still having problems (but my memory is a bit shady). The mechanic did some pressure tests and bleed tests and said that our fuel pump was outside the specified pressure and needed to be replaced. Dropped tank, replaced pump and sending unit with a new AC Delco, replaced fuel filter. Took it home, it seemed great.
Then my wife called me and said her truck was dying at every stop sign. When she got home, I verified, the tank read 1/4 full, truck would die at almost every stop. Truck would die slowing from 45 to 20 mph to make a left turn. This was dangerous, took it back to mechanic. Mechanic couldn't find an issue, but figured it was the sending unit. Replaced the part under warranty, didn't charge me any labor. They thought that we were really empty at 1/4 tank and had a bad sending unit, but that doesn't seem to be the case now.
Here are the basics of where we are: Truck runs fine when above 1/4 tank of gas.The truck suddenly dies when stopping or slowing down when the gas gauge reaches 1/4 tank. Starts right back up with no struggle, otherwise runs fine when the tank is low..Tank never empties. We can get a maximum of 16-17 gallons in it. The tank is 26 gal, and we previously have filled it with as much as 24+ gallons in one filling. The gauge needle barely touches F when full, and basically, the car is undrivable when it reaches 1/4.
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2004 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 4WD.... Rear brakes make strange winding sound when coming to a full stop, noise only apparent under 5MPH. They have been completely done over. Rear end issue? Changes gears fine, brakes work ok.
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My car came back from the shop yesterday with new brakes and pads and seems to be making some odd noises, both at low speeds and while breaking. I called the shop this morning and they said that this sound was normal for awhile but to come back in a week if it persists. Is this sound advice, or should I be driving my car right back to the shop?
2005 Hyundai Tucson 122,000 miles
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Is it just me or is this an ABS thing? during a snow storm i was going about 25mph and had applied the breaks and started making a grinding noise... if it is the abs how are you suppose to work with the response time for a quicker stop.
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Just bought a 2010 Toyota Rav4 about 2 weeks ago. It rained the other day and the brakes made a grinding noise the first time I braked after starting the car but didn't make it after that. Did it again the same day, still raining, but only the first time I braked after starting the car. I have a 30 day guarantee on the vehicle and need to know quickly if the brakes are bad or not.
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I have 23, 400 miles on my Kia Sportage 2009 and just found out I need to replace both of my rear brakes.They were making grinding noise. Is this a defect? Seems like low mileage to have to replace them?Also my front brakes are down to 50%. Is this a known KIA issue?
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About 5 years ago, my air conditioner started making a metallic-sounding grinding noise, when it is turned OFF. This noise goes away if the A/C is on. My mechanic said some part was slightly bent, bent it back, and this fixed it for a while. Eventually the noise came back but was intermittent. I drove the car for years hoping it would go away, leaving the A/C on most of the time. The noise is no longer intermittent, and my new mechanic says that it seems louder than before and if I don't get it fixed, it might cause the car to stall out. He offered to bypass it with a belt or replace the unit. What this could be? I drive with the A/C on now. 1998 geo prizm
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I have a 1987 Camaro with a 305 TPI V-8, with a 5-speed manual transmission. I rebuilt the transmission, and installed a new clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, and had the fly wheel ground (which the machine shop said that it took very little material off to get clean-up). When we first got the car running when the car is moving in any gear (even in neutral) with the clutch peddle down, I get a rotary grinding noise (but only about 30% of the time). If I let the clutch pedal up the noise stops immedately. The transmission shift smooly, in all gear selection. I thought that I had gotten a bad throw out bearing, so we installed an other new throw out bearing, but I get the same noise. Is there something that could cause this noise inside the transmission?
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My truck has grinding noises when i am making turns from a stop or at slow speeds. Also my 4x4 dash light keeps flashing several times both when I am sitting still and when driving. Neither my 4x4 auto or 4x4 high work but the low will work. Trying to pinpoint where I should look to fix them. I did replace the 4x4 control mod as an attempt to fix this.
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Here's my issue, after a full break job my right front brake began to grind. Curiously it wouldn't grind initially after breaking soon after start up. I could go on and slow break for quite a distance, but soon after a hard brake or just slow breaking long enough the grinding begins. I've taken the car back to Firestone three times and even after a few adjustments or cleaning the problem persist... I've starting to feel bad for Firestone and embarrassed to be holding on to this 99 Chevy. I can't continue to drive this small car that sounds like a MTA bus while braking.
But I digress... I did notice, purely by accident (or it may be a mere coincidence), a few times the ABS light came on and during those periods the grinding was less abrasive. This leads me closer to believing the issue is with the caliper.
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My car has been making this sound for such a long time i didnt notice it until my dad asked the dealer about it and they said 'they didnt hear it' i can get an audio clip if you think it' work. most regular steering around curves, just tight slow turning like into or out of a parking spot. it sounds like its right in the column...
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