Chevrolet - Tahoe :: 2007 - Total Electrical Power Failure
Dec 9, 2013
I have a 2007 Chev Tahoe. Description of Problem: Past month engine light came on. Then some days for a short time will go off. When light is on the auto start wont work. Battery has been drained so today I changed the battery and have a total electrical power system failure. Zero power to anything. Last month I put a scanner on it but i didnt save the code. It was related to a "throttle body module" i think. Have been reading about the BCM also so im at a complete loss...
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New ghost in the machine.
Pulled out of the driveway two days ago to go trailer a wrecked car home. Got about half a mile up the road, and my electrical system started flickering. Engine died, dash went nuts, everything is clicking on and off real fast. This went on for a minute or two, then stopped. After a little internal debate, I decided to continue on.
Ran fine for another mile or so. Hitched up the trailer and checked the lights, everything A-OK. Started rolling down the lane and the truck went dark. Engine shut down, no sign of electrical power anywhere. It was as if my batteries had been suddenly abducted by aliens. Truck stayed dark for about 5 - 10 seconds, then like a switch was thrown all the electric came back on. Dropped the trailer and drove back to the house without incident. Not towing a car like this.
Checked the battery connections. Looked really good and tight. Pulled and cleaned them anyways.
Pulled the fuse box out from under the dash and looked for water damage. Absolutely no sign of moisture or corrosion anywhere on the box or anything else under the dash.
Started the truck and turned every electrical item I could think of on. Truck sat and idled for 15 minutes without a hiccup. Voltage at the batteries was normal. I wiggled wires everywhere with no effect.
Decided to quit for the night. Got into the truck to move it to it's parking spot and POOF, all went dark again. Engine died, heater blower, radio, headlights, interior lights, all dark. About 5 seconds later, everything came back online.
No CEL. No other symptoms. She was either running perfectly or had no juice at all.
I drove it last night to the mechanic I use. 7 miles, bumps, potholes, stop and go traffic, no issues.
Just spoke with the mechanic. They can't reproduce the problem. I told him I can't reproduce it on demand either. I asked that they put it up on the rack and check all the ground points.
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I bought my 2005 Chevy Tahoe used in December 2010, with about 2200 engine hours and 54,000 miles. It's been a great car - I love it! In January 2012, when the engine had about 3000 hours, it reset to zero! I went to a dealer, they had no explanation. They contacted GM, who had no explanation either, other that to say it couldn't be done. Since I was left with no way to reset the hour log, I made a note of what I thought was the correct amount of hours. Last month, with about 350 hours showing, it reset again to zero!
I'm at a loss to figure this one out, and don't want to waste my time again with the dealer, or GM. Is it possible cold winter weather has anything to do with the on-board computer malfunctioning? Is it possible the odometer was tampered with, before I bought the car? It runs well, but the only thing I've had to deal with is the transmission, which went out two days before Christmas, at about 87,000 miles. $3500 later, we were back up and running.
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My 2002 GT 3.8 with 157,000mi has recently and randomly been losing total electrical power after starting the engine. Engine fires like a champ then after 2-3 seconds will completely die- no engine, no lights, no radio, no locks, nada. The key will be stuck in the ignition and can remove it after playing with it. After a time that I haven't been able to determine, electrical power will be restored after I reinsert the key. Sometimes she will stay running after restarting: sometimes not. But she never hesitates to start.
After the first occurrence she ran fine for 3 days but did notice the driver information center would flicker. It never went completely dark, but go from bright to dim- which has previously never happened.
The car has been parked outside and it has been raining quite a bit- I did notice a few times there has been water on the passenger side floor. I had this problem years ago and it was supposed to have been fixed at the shop.
Also of note: I've had the known GP ignition lock issue where the key will not release for the past 3 years. Just been using a pen to manually release the lock from the bottom of the steering column. Don't think it's a battery problem as it is less than 2 months old.
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1965 F100 300cid electrical drain...
I am attaching a link to my thread in the 1960's truck forum : [URL] .....
With my limited skill level, I have given up! It could very likely be something I am doing wrong with the diagnoses/troubleshooting.
Basically, When I turn the key to start the truck, I get a clicking solenoid at best and what appears to be a total loss of power. Not even the dome light will come on. The starter is new as is the solenoid.
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Chevrolet Tahoe 2007
This service light came on 2 weeks ago. The next day, the car seemed to be trying to switch from 2 wheel to 4 wheel drive. Took it to the dealer who found nothing. We drove the car for 2 days without any service lights coming on. Then the switching ( 2 to 4 WD) started again, but this time the transmission would not go above 1st gear. Pulled over and turned off the engine, then tried to restart it. Nothing. Dead. A few minutes later, we go it back home. Had CAA tow it back to the dealer. It's been a week and they found nothing. They are looking for engine codes that would explain the problem.
Is this an electrical problem or a sensor issue?
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My 2007 Tahoe is leaking a bluish or greenish fluid from the rear driver's side. I have not looked to see exactly where the leak is coming from, but was wondering what this could be?
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I recently had the high and low pressure tubes on my power steering fail causing a total loss of fluid. After about a week of living with manual steering, I brought it in and had the tubing replaced. Everything worked fine, though the steering felt a bit sloppy to me. Today, on my way home from a 100 mile trip, the car decided that turning left just wasn't something it wanted to do.
So to turn left, I would have to back up and turn the wheels to the right. Not exactly an efficient way to drive in traffic. Do I try to get the car back into my mechanics place to see if he can fix it for a reasonable amount, or should just bite the bullet and look for a newer car? BTW when I had brought the car in for the tubing replacement, they showed me where the bracket holding the strut on the left had begun to crack, probably from driving without the power steering. 1998 Malibu LS ....
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Our 2007 Chevy Tahoe 4 X 4 recently displayed a "Service Four Wheel Drive" panel light a couple of days ago (upon ignition on a sunny, dry day). The light had been steady which, when we read the owners manual, indicates a problem but no immediate service required. One of the possible solutions was to remove and close the gas cap in case it had been incorrectly closed during the last gas-up. That did not work. Yesterday, during a snow storm, I tried using the 4WD. The dial would move to the different settings, but no 4WD activated and no light illuminated indicating which gear it was in (2WD, Auto, 4H, 4L). We checked the fuse for the 4WD but it is OK.
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All instruments quit working at once on my 97 F-150 - speed, tach, fuel, volts, temp, odo, trip odo, oil. All idiot lights have failed except battery and seat belt. Indication for Overdrive is not working.
I have checked all other equipment and can find nothing else that is not working. I have checked the 50 A fuses (20 and 21) under the hood and also the 5 A fuse (2) under the dashboard, all are ok. Fuse 18 is also good, and the dashboard illumination is working. All fuses checked visually and with a meter. The annoying chimes are all working. The hi-lo beam indication, auto down feature for the drivers side window, and all features associated with wipers are working.
Checked for OBDII codes, passed with no codes listed, although the idiot light is not working. I have been searched this site fand read many posts. I think I saw a thread somewhere that stated that this was probably a GEM problem....
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I drive a 2007 Prius, I just purchased it about four months ago. Today after filling up with gas I drove about 60 miles and suddenly three lights on my dash came on. The all system light (the red triangle), the check engine light as well as the VSC or VCS what ever way it goes, my electric batter was also low on charge having only one bar(my car is not a plug in, the battery is recharged by the engine) then the car lost all boost and while pressing on the gas it was not accelerating. I pulled over and put it in park so the battery could charge. It charged to half way, however the lights stayed on.
My car then started running really rough, I am still in park at this time. I put some gas stabilizer in my tank because I thought maybe I got some bad gas. I left my car sit for about five minutes before turning it back on. All the lights were off except my check engine and my car started running normal. Then about three minutes later all the lights came back on and the car started running jerky again. When I push the gas to move I can, however I've only gone about four feet because it is running so rough.
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From time to time, my Tahoe gives me the "Reduced Engine Power" error, and I lose acceleration capabilities and have to pull over. After a min or 2, I can go again, but the check engine light stays on. With no rhyme or reason, the light will be on or off on the next start up. The problem may or may not happen during a short ride or may happen quite often. I have replaced the Accelerator Pedal sensor, so that is not the problem, I'm assuming.
I've been told that it is the Throttle Body that needs to be replaced, but no mechanic can confirm. They just want to replace it and the pedal. I would really like to keep this truck for a couple more years. Other than this problem, the Tahoe has been pretty good to me. Here are the codes that have been read: P1125, 1516, 2120, 2125 ....
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Our 2006 Chevy Tahoe will at times while running the speed limit (or slightly above) will suddenly without warning lose power. All the gauges remain in good ranges. This will happen without warning and not on a regular basis - sometimes going six months without happening and then happen three times within thirty minutes. The stability system warning message comes on as does the check engine light. Also the traction control warning light comes on. We can pull to the side of the road, turn the engine off for a few seconds and then it will start up again and run well with only the check engine light on. When this happens, the rpms will drop and go under 1500 and the engine will still be running, just without power.
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Our 1999 CRV has had the clutch fail several times in the past year. The pattern is that you notice it slipping a bit now and then, but trending worse over a few days. Then it gets dramatically worse in a period of minutes: it does not engage fully when let out. The pedal feels fine, the engine is running fine, but power is not transmitted to the wheels.
On two occasions, we were able to take it directly and the mechanic resolved the problem with some adjustment to the master cylinder, or something like that (my wife spoke to the mechanic and it was many months ago).
Last winter, I was driving as the problem was recurring and I found myself nursing the slipping clutch up a steep one mile grade. At the top of the hill, totally flat ground, the problem continued to get worse for the next half mile, till there was no power at all! Engine fine, pedal action fine, but effectively the clutch was permanently disengaged. I left the car there over night. The next morning, before calling for a tow, I tried again and the clutch was working! I could tell it was still slipping a bit, but it was no problem to drive to the mechanic, who fixed the problem again for just a hundred bucks or so.
Yesterday, my wife again found that the clutch failed completely over the course of a few miles driving. She had to be towed. Today the mechanic says they can't reproduce the problem!
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I have a Chevy Tahoe 1999, Went to the store came out my Tahoe wouldn't start i had it towed home. My husband said the starter was clicking but wasn't getting enough power to turn the flywheel. We got a new starter put it on and it clicked just like it did when i tried to start it before. We took the new starter back and had the old one tested and it was ok so we put it back on and it still clicked like before. He said the flywheel was easy to turn, then he replaced the hot wire from the battery to the starter, now the starter don't even click.
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My 08 Tahoe will 'die' at odd times. Sometimes I open the door and there is no charge from the battery. This can happen between opening the door with the remote and trying to start the car. It can happen between putting the car in park and cutting it off. I have come home, dut the car off and been unable to open the doors until I remember how to do it manually. a jump will always restore the car - for a while. If I leave it alone for an hour or so,it usually will start but the clock and climate control have reset. Most recently, the alarm went off, I turned it off using my remote. I found later that the car had 'died' momentarily. I have had the car checked and rechecked. Everything seems to check out each time - battery, alternator, whatever. This stated a 18 months ago when my battery died and I got a new one. Most recently, my mechanic has changed the make of the battery and checked every connection and every component. I am now waiting to see if this happens again. Usually, it happens every 4 months +-. I am at my wits end. I do not know what to do, My mechanic does not know. He has even tried to update the computers n the car.
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I have a 2003 Tahoe that I love but is driving me crazy with a "Reduced Engine Power" message. I am driving along and suddenly it dings at me, the message center says "reduced engine power" and I am losing speed. It goes into a "limp mode" in which I cannot accelerate, it cannot pull itself up a hill, and the engine misses badly. I can pull over, shut it off for a couple of minutes and then start it up and run again just fine until it decides to do it again.
There seems to be no rhyme or reason, one day it did it 4 times w/n the first 20 miles, then ran 100 miles w/o doing it at all. I recently took it on a trip that normally takes me 1 1/2 hours, it took 2 1/4 hrs that day because I had to pull over so many times. I was having to stop every 3-4 miles by the time I got there. My usual mechanic has completely given up, told me to trade it. I have had it to another mechanic for over a month now, 3 times he has thought it was fixed, but it wasn't. One time, I didn't even make it the 5 miles to my house before it acted up again.
One other note on this: this past trip I made, I left early in the morning and my lights were flickering high/low. . . this went on for several miles. Finally my lights quit flickering, then I lost engine power, pulled over, shut it off. When I started it back up, the lights started flickering again. The cycle seemed to continue, once the lights would settle, the engine would lose power. I took it to a parts store and had the battery and alternator checked. They said both were fine. (Had never noticed the light thing before, but I can't think of a recent trip after dark.) How I can pass along to my mechanic?
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I am on my third EGT gauge. My mechanic installed it as per "auto meter" specifications. He told me, the only reason he could find that the gauges have been failing is low voltage output. I have an onboard compressor for my airbag suspension and every time I start my vehicle it runs to fill up the air system. The voltage drops to 11.1V. It comes up once all is running and the compressor quits. is there any such thing as surge/brownout protection for these systems?
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2003 Jetta GLI 2.8L 24v VR6 .... Last night I went to a friends house, everything was normal on the way there, probably 35-40 degrees out. When I got to his house and shut off the car and pulled the key out the power died (clock/trip meter reset) and the alarm started going off. It has done this before once or twice but I could never figure out what it was and it was never really an issue except for the clock resetting.
Jets won, went to leave and the car wouldn't start. It was raining gently at the time but the car has weathered worse. I replaced the battery ~2-4 months ago so it should definitely still be good. Jumped with my friend's car, started on the first try. I let it sit for a bit then we were on our way.
1/4 mile away in the middle of an intersection the car died, power steering, everything, and I had to drift to the other side of the road. The person across the street from me was a cop and it was 12:30 in the morning but he was gone before my car died. I have been driving 5/6 speeds all my life and I know I didn't cause the stall out. The dash lights flickered and dimmed. I shut everything off and then gave it a try and the car started right up. Revved the engine a few times, reverse and drove away. It was fine the rest of the way home.
The battery connections are tight. The car has started every single time up until now with the new battery. My old battery did leak some acid on the copper connectors and into the main positive power cable but I neutralized all of it and cleaned it off and it looked fine except for some pitting on the outside of the terminal clamp. The car is mostly stock except for the exhaust but that was years ago.
Current Battery Voltage: 12.37 ... I just started the car for the first time this morning and it started perfectly. started @ ~1200 and then settled down to ~800rpm after a bit, it usually does this when its cold out. No codes have been thrown.
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I have a 95 Chevy G30 van. The power windows, power locks, and power mirrors stopped working when I installed an electronic trailer brake controller. I disconnected the controller. The circuit breakers are fine. Where do I look next?
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I have a 99 Chevy Tahoe that the transmission keeps going out in. I've replaced the torque converter, cooler lines, computer. I've even added an additional cooler on the truck and it keeps burning three the transmissions.
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