Chevrolet - Suburban :: Intermittent Surge Or Shudder Between 40 - 60 Mph During Acceleration
Jan 24, 2012
I have a 99 Suburban with very high miles. Going on 306K mostly highway miles. This is our baby and the best vehicle I've ever owned. This is a solid vehicle that I think we can get more miles out of.
The problem is that it will intermittently surge or shudder between 40-60mph during acceleration. It's hard to pinpoint because it doesn't happen all the time. It seems to be worse if the vehicle is low on gas or the engine is cold but I'm not certain about that. It's not hard enough to call a buck, jerk, or sputter though. Maybe I've over-analyzing but basically it will shift to the correct gear and then back down then back up etc., and back and forth for very brief seconds. Then levels out after 60mph and there are no other problems. If the gas is low or engine is cold is does this in lower gears as well but usually only around 4th gear. I hope this description makes sense.
Here's where I'm confused. The transmission was rebuilt 2 weeks ago specifically the torque converter and rear planetaries. The day we got it back we performed a tune-up so all new plugs/wires/cap/rotor. The fuel filter was replaced about 8 months ago and the fuel pump 2 years ago. All regular maintenance has been performed on time since we bought it 4 years ago. Yesterday the Service Engine Soon light came on and it only showed one code (OBD II), PO161, so we replaced the 02 Sensor (Bank 2, Sensor 2).
However the problem persists and there are no other codes providing any direction. I've tried to search the internet for drivers with the same issue but the fixes vary too much and seem uncertain.
Other known issues for diagnostics: four wheel drive hasn't worked for years (haven't needed it in our flatlands) and ac compressor went out last spring.
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I have an 82 GMC suburban with a 6.2 diesel, TH400 transmission and a NP265 transfercase. The last day of June we moved from Greeley Colorado to Southern South Dakota. Tems were as high as 107 that day. I had to stop several times to let the transmission cool. I didn't want to burn it out. I was towing a Hyundai Accent (2002) on a Uhaul Car Dolly. The trans temp gauge registered as high as 210 degrees. If it got hot I would stop and let it cool. However recently I changed the rear axle, the pinion spider gears seized and exploded. I think I went from a 3.73 gear to a 3.08. However I am not certain. Certainly seems like it when I pass people at 30 according to the speedometer that used to pass me. However, recently it seems to have developed an occasional shudder as I accelerate. It's mainly after alot of in town driving. I checked the brakes, serviced the rear end, and checked the fluid levels.
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86 Diesel Suburban
Lately the voltage gauge sometimes starts to wander upwards toward the 18v red zone. When it does it wanders up and down a lot, but mostly well above the center 13v. Sometimes I left of the throttle a little and it goes back and stays at normal, and sometimes it doesn't and bounces up again as soon as I press the throttle. Doesn't happen on every drive, just sometimes.
I thought it unlikely this was a bad voltage regulator, since it's a pretty new alternator, 2 years tops. So I thought I'd see what other possible causes could be. (Why do they make the voltage regulator internal to the alternator now anyways, since they seem to go bad more often than the core? Can I just add an external regulator like the older trucks had?)
I've heard over-voltage can ironically sometimes be caused by a short, since the regulator dumps more voltage into the field coils because the main coils are showing they aren't delivering enough current (because it's all being soaked up by the short), resulting in an overall over voltage as the alternator tries to compensate for the voltage drop of the short.
How do I tell if this is the cause of the overvoltage or if it's something else instead? If it is a short, where could it be? I'm assuming it must be somewhere weird, because almost any normal place I could think of for a short would simply blow a fuse. Or is there such a thing as a partial short-- high enough resistance to not blow a fuse, but low enough to drive the alternator nuts?
Could it be related to overheating? I initially thought that was a possibility, because it began around the time the weather turned warm here, but on any given day it seems pretty random and not tied strongly to excessive speed or going up hills.
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I have a 2003 impala I just bought and it has an intermittent problem. Sometimes when I step on the gas the motor will 'slam'---kinda like if the motor mounts were bad but they look good and it doesn't always do this. Also, if I hit the gas pedal hard and then almost as quickly let off the gas pedal I get the same effect--shutter/slam. I suspect the mounts but they look fine. If I keep on the gas all gears shift very smoothly. Gear shift is smooth thru all gears if I floor it or go slowly accelerate so it seems not to be the transmission either.
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Lately my GTI has had intermittent surges in 1st gear w/ just a light tap of the gas and low RPMs. The car is not tuned.
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I have owned this 96 k1500 5.7L Vortex Suburban for 3 years.
Problem: Intermittent stalling upon coming to a stop. When it stalls and I try to restart the engine, the starter can barely spin the motor. The timing is thrown so far advanced that it will literally fire the engine backward and grind the starter gear on the flywheel. I have killed about six starters so far. I took it to the dealership and after two weeks they are clueless.
So far we have replaced: TPS, Ignition Module, Cam sensor, Crank sensor, ECM, and perhaps a few other things I don't recall at this time. If it would stall and simply restart, I could cope with it. The only way I have found to get it to start is when it stalls, pop hood, unplug the power source to the ignition coil, turn key and spin engine over for a few seconds, replug the power source to the ignition coil, and attempt a restart. Usually I don't have to do this more than once or twice.
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On light acceleration, it has a light stumble or surge and is very slow. On hard acceleration it makes a lot of noise, but isn't even fast enough. I can feel it shift through the gears, and can feel the converter lock up when it's supposed to. Any attempt to climb a slight hill or pass a car, it downshifts to what seems like 2 gears down, and has a loud roaring noise, but I don't feel the acceleration. At steady speed, it feels like it's hunting for a steady RPM, but can't find it.
I just had a timing belt replaced. Had the mech double check to make sure marks are correct. He did a cranking compression test and said they were all between 165-170 psi (is that a little high for a 150K mile car?). He smoke tested the intake system and found no leaks.
It does have codes stored for cat converter and a lean code-bank 1.
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I have been checking on the automotive forums for Suburban no start problems and have tried some of the solutions, but my vehicle still doesn't start. Here is where I'm at: I have spark, fuel pressure at the throttle body, the fuel pump in the tank is working, new cap, rotor, coil, module, fuel filter, and ECM.
I just ran the truck 2 days ago for 10 minutes to flush the radiator, turned it off to install a new t/stat, then it wouldn't start again. I have tried starting fluid, gasoline, it cranks but no fire, not even a sputter. The pump has been replaced probably 9 years ago. The only other thing not replaced is the pickup coil in the distributor, although the distributor was rebuilt about 10 to 12 years ago. This vehicle just sits until needed, can't afford to drive it daily. The truck is a 1987 Suburban 1/2 ton 350K engine, automatic, 4wd.
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While driving on the freeway my car started to surge as if it was starving in fuel. I had to press more gas to go the same speed. My gas tank was at a 1/4 full so I pulled into the gas station to fill in gas. As I was leaving my car could not accelerate while pressing the gas pedal. I could floor the gas and it would go only five miles an hour! The engine temp was okay, no engine lights, and no weird smells. I was fortunate to be close to home and slowly made it letting cars pass me on the side. I called the road side service who towed my car to my dealer. They checked for codes, ran fuel injector cleaner twice through the system, checked the fuel pump, and the pressure on the fuel system, no problems. The third day they gave me a Sonata for a loaner and I allowed the service manager to drive my car to see if the problem reappeared. No problems found and I picked up my car today. The problem hasn't reappeared yet but I am keeping track of any rough acceleration or idle.
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The past few days ive been having some boost problems. Boost will surge to 15psi then drop to 0psi and continues on acceleration. Coming from work today I was unable to get past 5psi accelerating
Then on WOT the boost would spike to 23psi then down to zero. Checked all hoses i could see and reach to make sure they were connected.
Mods:
Forge 007 DV
ECS Race N75 Valve
Turboback Exhaust
Chipped
Short Ram Intake
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I have a 1999 F350 200,000 miles. Now getting an intermittent engine light. Still runs well, although once or twice I felt a momentary surge at highway speeds. The light is on intermittently about 1/2 time. I read the codes and the following codes, as in the thread title, came up:
P0280 - ICP circuit out of range - low
P0113 - intake air temp sensor circuit - high input
P0470 - Exhaust back pressure sensor circuit malfunction
P0478 - Exhaust pressure control valve - high input
What would make these all code at the same time? Would these not make a noticeable problem driving? And how do I resolve these?
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Our 2002 Honda Odyssey (158k miles) occasionally has a mild but definite shuddering/shake when I am going up a small grade. For example, I might be at a stop sign. Upon accelerating up a small grade (0 - 25 mph) the vehicle experiences a shuddering of some sort - hard to explain. It is not anything in the steering wheel - it is the vehicle itself. Not being a mechanic or anything, I want to say it almost feels as if the drive system is out of alignment and is vibrating until the moving parts align again. A broken engine mount??? It is front wheel drive - so no drive shaft and u-joints. CV Joints bad?
We've asked several mechanics - one a Honda certified technician - and nothing suspicious was found.
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So my 2005 elantra 2.0 CVVT has 189k on it 1 owner.
I got a check engine light one day and i read the code. Came out to be 02 sensor code bank 1. So i order a denso o2 sensor and replace the part.
I drive the car for about 400 miles to reset monitors and get a check engine light. P0420 cat code. At this point the car drives with normal power and pickup.
1000 miles later my car has lost power. It doesn't have any get up or power when driving normally. I take the car to my local shop and they recommend replacing front cat. I replace front cat, same issue.
At this point i'm not sure if it is a transmission problem or maybe my 2nd cat or something else?
On the freeway if I put my pedal to the ground the rpms surge up very very slowly,
Also seems like the car doesn't shift till around 4k rpms, seems like previously it shifted sooner.
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I have a 1998 Chevy Blazer (2WD) with 115k miles. When I turn the key and start the car, the RPMs rev up really high for about 4 seconds and then drop down real low until the car dies. All in all this is about an 8-second process, and it sounds like I'm flooring the accelerator when, in fact, I'm not even touching it. The Blazer just started doing this, but previously for about the last few months about once a month, when I would start the car I would get a loud backfire sound which sounded like it came from under the hood (driver's side), and this was followed by the smell of exhaust coming into the cab through the AC vents. How to go about diagnosing this since I'm unable to drive it to get the codes read
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The ac condenser unit will click every 7 seconds followed by a 3 to 400 rpm surge for 5 seconds or so, drop rpm then repeat. Belt looks fine, no slipping, new plugs a month ago, newish air and gas filter, does it in neutral or drive, read many ideas from low or high freon, iac, throttle body cleaning, o2 sensor? no codes thrown. Maybe coincidental but was discussing o2 upstream sensor recently on this board. The car experiences the same symptoms while driving.
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I have a 2007 6.0 crew cab that I'm having some recent issues with. When starting cold in the A.M. the truck will crank, start for a half second then shut down, after about 3 times it will finally catch and keep running. I'll let it warm a bit, then for the first few minutes of driving it will have a pretty noticeable surge on acceleration only, not at idle.
The surge goes away mostly after warm however you can still feel it happening between 22-2700 rpm and can just see the rpm moving back and forth a little. Lastly the fuel mileage has dropped a good amount. If I baby it around town I'll get 10.5 and can see 9ish occasionally.
Truck has brand new ford fuel filters, ford blue spring, fresh oil change, FICM has 3k miles on it, new batteries in last 6 months. Turbo egr oil cooler done in last 20k. Currently has 120k on it.
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2002 Chevy Monte Carlo SS 6cyl 100,000 miles
Symptom, loss of horse power (from a stop and going uphill), surge or lunge forward when accelerating (misfire?), rough idle (occasional knock). Maintenance, regularly change all filters and fluids, recently had the m.a.f cleaned and changed air filter, spark plugs and wires, oil.
There have been times in the past year or so when the car would crank but not start. Especially when the car was hot. Wait a couple minutes and it would start. Also a couple of times the car would shake fairly hard when started, get up to speed and it was fine.
I have had people tell me anything from a clogged catalytic converter to bad fuel injectors or fuel pump.
Scanned the car last week. No codes showed up. Never had a Check Engine Light.
I forgot to mention that every once and a while the car will jerk when accelerating. I have a coworker who said his truck started to jerk forward and later would not start at all. Our mechanic said it was the fuel pump. I I will see what that does for him.
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If sensor or control module malfunction. Brakes are fine. If ABS relay, so where is it located, cant find in fuse box. This is a 1500 2WD suburban.
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I have a 2010 Camry 2.5 liter with 150k miles. I have begun to notice a shudder around 30-45 mph during normal acceleration. It does not happen during a hard acceleration. As I watch the rpm's when the car shifts the shudder happens after the rpm's drop when the car is engaging in the next gear. After some research I'm led to believe I have a failing torque converter. If it is the torque converter can just the converter itself be replaced or does the whole transmission need to be replaced.
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My 2003 Suburban shakes when I drive over 70 mph. I don't know if the tires need realignment?
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I have a 1990 suburban that has had a rebuilt x-mission about 50,000 miles ago. At this time when I drive there is a hesitation, split second, when running on flat road. It happens when going up a hill, too.My mechanic said change the: plug wires, then the plugs and rotor. No difference.
I think the thing is dropping out of OD for a split second and then going back in. If I drive in 3rd, I don't think it is happening. Isn't there a relay or solenoid that controls this function?
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