Chevrolet - Suburban :: 2007 - Foamy Stuff In Oil Lid / Huge Amount Of Blue Smoke Blowing Out
Jan 29, 2013
I am writing about a 2007 Chevrolet Suburban and for the last few months, have noticed that the car is losing oil. I have to put in a quart of oil about every 3 weeks. I have brought it in to the mechanics and asked them to look for a leak and they can't find anything. They have changed the oil, replaced the evap hose, but the car is still losing oil. Just did a lot of driving this last weekend and the oil went all the way down, to the point of when I started it this morning, I got a huge amount of blue smoke out the back. When I took off the cap to add oil, I noticed this mustard yellow, foamy stuff on the lid. Never saw that before.
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First some background. The vehicle is a 2003 Expedition with rear AC. The 5.4L engine has been replaced with a 4BT Cummins (DD since 2010), but the AC system is not altered-- other than the compressor being mounted to a different engine. The intercooler is in front of the condenser, which hurts efficiency of the AC system, but it seems to work fine in our climate.
My AC system quit cooling one day, and the problem was a hole in one of the low-side tubes from rubbing on the turbo-to-intercooler tube. I repaired this by aluminum brazing. The system held 120 psi on nitrogen for one hour. So I pumped it down overnight to 27 inches of Hg and made an appointment with the AC shop to get it recharged. I could not get an appointment for several weeks, so I continued to drive it with no AC, thinking it should be no problem since there is no pressure in the system.
I was on a road trip when all of a sudden, there was a huge stinky cloud of blue smoke billowing out from behind the truck. I pulled over and the AC clutch and pulley was smoking hot. I shut it down and cooled it off slowly with squirts from a water bottle.
So my clutch is shot but I'm not sure what caused it to fry. Is there a typical mechanical failure where the friction material can be chewed up by the pulley-hub? Or is it possible that somehow the controller commanded the clutch to engage without pressure in the system?
I think it would be prudent to replace the compressor, since there may be some bearing or housing damage from the clutch failure, so that is in the plan. I have read that when ever the system is open, the drier should be changed too. I want to do this right rather than do it again on another day.
One concern I have is that if when the clutch was failing and it managed to turn the compressor-- could there be pieces of compressor in the tube runs that I need to clean out? Other than a visual inspection of the open tube ends, is there another test or things to look for?
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I have a 2004 Camry that I purchased used 8/2006 with 20,400 miles on it. It now has 83,000 miles on it. I’ve changed the oil and filter every 3,000 miles, and I’ve never had to add oil between changes. I’ve also replaced the antifreeze on time, using 5 yr/150,000 mile antifreeze. The only time I’ve had to add antifreeze was 4/23/13, to top off the overflow reservoir. Saturday I did my annual tune-up (plugs, air filter and fuel injector cleaner added to the gas). Plugs looked normal. Last week the car sat for several days, no issue on start-up.
Yesterday afternoon I started the car after it sat for two days. A huge amount of white smoke came out of the exhaust. It ran fine. I mentioned this to my wife, she said that about two weeks ago she saw a lot of black smoke (she thinks black) when she started the car and that it ran rough for about the first 4 miles and then started running ok. It has the 2AZFE engine, and I’ve read a TSB (TSB 1507) “It has been reported that stripped head bolt threads have been found on some of these engines during tear down. When the two rear head bolts lose their clamping ability they allow coolant to seep out at the rear of the cylinder head.” Could that be the problem?
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99 1500 2wd 5.7 burb
Out of the blue I started old red up yesterday (after charging the dead battery) and got a huge cloud of white smoke. Smells of coolant so Im thinking oh great a head gasket. The thing is, I can see no trace of coolant in oil or vice versa. I started it up with radiator cap off, while cranking I got a little fluid spit out the neck but once it started it was not gushing or bubbling at all.
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I have 93 Explorer 4.0 that seems to be blowing a massive amount of smoke out the tailpipe. This smoke is not an oil burning smoke, its a coolant smoke I am pretty sure (smells very sweet like antifreeze). So after reading about common problems on the frist gen 4.0 I thought the issue may be a lower intake manifold leak caused by loose bolts. So I tightened them down and sure enough, problem solved, I thought. About 4 days goes by and BAM the problem is back. My questions is
Can the lower intake manifold gasket cause the white smoke issue? This rig is also not running so great either. Rough idle, and surging, also seems to have a dead spot in the RPM range at about 3K. Oil looks and smells fine and no signs point to a head gasket other then the smoke? I swear the problem with the white smoke went away for a few days after tightening down the lower intake manifold bolts but its back again. What does everyone thing?
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I may have an issue with my engine. My car is beginning to blow some blue smoke when I romp on it. It doesn't break up at all, there isn't any loss of power. It's just blowing some smoke and I noticed a light oil build up on my exhaust tips. I don't think I need to be hugely concerned yet, but I am bringing it to the dealership tomorrow just to make sure.
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I am only at 141,000 miles and I'm seeing blue smoke while I idle! It started as a small puff of blue smoke when cold starting up...now it is much more consistent. I am also getting a diag trouble code of P0674 (glow plug in cylinder 4) can that be the cause? I'm nervous since I didn't watch my tech put oil in the truck at the last oil change...I think he put four gallons in instead of 15 quarts...is that a prob?
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My turbo started to have oil on the top of it. I don't know where it's coming from at all, it started to blow blue smoke but not all the time. You can also smell the oil burning off.. someone said maybe the pcv system but not sure. Still new to the vw world only owned the car for about 4 months. Trying to add pics but it's not working.. Will keep trying
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My santa fe 125k on it engine start to blow little blue smoke when start up ...
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01 7.3 247k.
Yesterday went to get on the freeway I looked back and saw a cloud of what looked like blue smoke. I'm in northern Utah and it's cold but the truck runs fine, I haven't noticed any change in performance. Turbo still builds boost. I pulled the fuel filter cap last night to check fuel color and it was clean.
I do have the CCV mod done. I also pulled to IC Pipe off the turbo and there was a little oil in there but not much, should there be any at all with the CCV mod? Where to start.
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I have a 2003 ford escape V6 and i have notice when i start it' after setting overnight i notice some blue smoke for a little while then it's stop What could be causing this.
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I have a 07 6.0 powerstroke, I had 2 bad injectors so I replaced all of them with reman's. I had a problem with them coming loose. the first time this happened it hydrolocked the motor, number 8 cylinder. so I pulled all the injectors and replaced all the seals and washers and torqued them down a little more than spec like 27 lbs. it runs great and starts great even at 25 degrees but I noticed this morning that when starting it up after it sits (cold) it blows blueish smoke until late it warms up and I accelerate. is this normal? should I check fuel filters? oil in fuel?
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2007 Camry XLE 3.5 ... My baby is puking out blue smoke. This happened over night no warning at all. Its real bad in the morning and also while idling at a red light. There is not much info on the newer Gens with high miles. The only thing I ever had to replace where brakes, tires oil changes and the Battery. I have 145k mostly highway miles. I have read here and there could be emission stuffs? Never had any codes either. I'm hoping its not the valve seals.
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I have an 07 Sonata V6 Limited with 65K miles. Recently I've noticed at startup, the valves pinging and blue smoke coming from the tail pipes. Settles down after a few seconds and doesn't do it again if you shut it down and re-start. Last time I experienced this was on a Silverado with well over 100K miles. Back then it was valve seals. Could this be possible with 65K? I noticed in the maintenance log that they request having valve clearance inspected at 60K. Could this be causing my condition? I'm the second owner, so the 100K warranty is out of the question.
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2007 F350 CCLB, Still stock, 130k miles. SCT Tuner for towing and MPG (canned tunes).. I am new to the diesel world so just making sure.
Since we started getting colder mornings I have noticed a small amount of white, or blueish white smoke on start up for about 5 secs or so. Last week in Montana I did notice the light smoke for about 5 secs then looked like vapor for about 1 min (was about 30 degrees out)
Only during the first start of the day on cooler mornings (45 and under) have i noticed it, nothing while driving, no knocks or hard start, no codes. I am about due for an oil change (Delo in there right now but switching to syn), and do have the canned tow tune from SCT on there. Anything I should have checked or should check, I am decent with wrench.
Also I have noticed the blue sleeve that goes to the front of turbo coming from the front of the truck (maybe the cooler?), kinda looks like rubber gets a slightly dirty coating to it, not sure if normal or related.
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Our 2008 Acura MDX started blowing black stuff through a/c system (driver and passenger sides). When I picked up a piece of it and crushed it in my hand, it would disintegrate into almost a powder-like substance.
We took it to the Acura Dealer and according to them interior filter and a/c vent look fine and they would have to take the whole dashboard apart to see if there is a problem. What it could be? It's not affecting the performance of the car and the AC seems to function just fine. This black net-like particles started last summer.
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Have a 2007 Chevrolet Suburban. The voltmeter reading varies from 13 to 16 volts, no obvious reasons for changes in the reading. Chevy says there are a number of different inputs that determine what the reading should be, such as battery temp, etc. On older cars you could use the voltage to determine when something was going wrong with the electrical system. Other that a complete loss of alternator output, can you use the reading to diagnose electrical problems, such as a bad or dying battery?
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One side of my rear defogger wire has detached from the window. It detached right at the metal clip and window. I will not solder (due to possibly breaking the window). Have tried all kind of epoxies & bonding agents - will not work.
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I replaced the oil pressure switch on an '07 Suburban 5.3L because the oil pressure was showing low once the engine warmed up. That did nothing, then I found out about that little filter/screen under the sensor. I intended to remove and clean the filter then reinstall it. While I was pulling it out, I dropped it back behind the engine and couldn't find it. I checked online and found a few people in other forums that said to just remove the screen as a "fix", so I left it out and put the sensor back in, just to get the vehicle drivable. It started right up and ran fine for me, parked it, and a after sitting for a few hours it started popping while driving with the SES light flashing on the drive home.
Code P0300 was set, no cylinder specific misfire codes were present. I checked the misfire data and cylinder #6 showed tens of thousands of misfires, #5 showed several hundred, but I think it was just picking them up from #6 since #5 is right after #6 in the firing order. I disabled each injector with a scan tool, all changed the idle except #6, it did absolutely nothing. #6 fuel injector had good pulse to it, I connected a fuel pressure gauge and put power/ground to injectors #6 and #4, both dropped the same fuel pressure. I did the "cylinder deactivation" test on the scan tool for the four cylinders that have it, they all did the exact same thing - the engine bogged way down for a couple seconds and then died. Is that normal? I can't say I've ever seen a V8 engine die before when running on 6 or 7 cylinders. I checked compression on cylinder #6, it showed very low, almost zero, but I tried it a few times and it would show just a little compression at times... valves staying shut? I'm thinking when I opened the pressure relief valve on the gauge and the piston was near the bottom of the cylinder may be when it showed some compression. I also switched the coil/wire/plug from #6 to other cylinders and the miss did not follow.
Could having that screen out cause this problem? Having the engine die when deactivating the cylinders makes me wonder if maybe it's commanding all four at the same time, although the test shows each cylinder being controlled separately. Using a MODIS, not a TechII. I just got done putting in a new filter/screen to see if it would make any difference, and of course it didn't.
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I just replaced my front rotors and brake pads this afternoon. I took it for a test run around the block and had allot of smoke come off the rotor on drivers side. I concluded that it had seized, and replaced it with a new rotor. I then test drove it a good two miles to fill the girl up with gas, when I got home I saw that my passenger side rotor had a faint amount of smoke. Granted I did a sloppy job and there was brake fluid everywhere. With all that being said, when I drove her to get gas it did not pull to the right, jerk or pulse. I was able to stop on a dime, I guess I want to know if this small amount of smoke is just the new pads adjusting to the new rotor?
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I have a fleeting issue that of course only happens on rare occasions. I have a 2011 Elantra Limited. I drive it pretty easy. On three different occasions, when I really had to get on it to get into traffic, I have left a huge plume of smoke. From what I can tell it's darker in color, but it's been usually evening so I can't really tell. If I punch it again, it's fine. I have mentioned to the dealer each time and they say nothing shows amiss.
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