Chevrolet - Suburban :: 2002 - Scraping Noise While Driving
May 20, 2016
OK so - I had the rear axle bearings replaced, but I'm still hearing a rotational scraping noise while moving (whether gas is applied or not, or whether braking is applied). Gets slightly louder the faster I go. But when I turn, the noise goes away. It's hard to pinpoint where the noise is coming from. My wife swears it's in the front; to me it sounds like it's in the middle (so it would be being transmitted from the source).
I took it back to our mechanic, but he can't hear it very well - he admits that his hearing is not what it used to be (he's in his 70s). Only thing he hears is "gear noise in the rear"... meaning he'd have to replace the differential in the back which would be prohibitively expensive and not worth it. He said I should come back in a couple weeks when his younger employee will be back so he can listen for it.
View 6 Replies
Advertisement
I have noticed a louder noise and increase in vibration during driving at speeds of 70mpg + ... What is the cause??
View 1 Replies
I have a 2002 suburban . I have a humming noise coming from the rear . It starts at 45mph and then goes away at 47mph. I hear it again between 60-65 mph then goes away . This is a faint sound . When pulling a trailer the sound is much more noticeable and more constant from 55-64 mph . When I let off the gas the sound is still there and fades as the truck slows. Am I dealing with a bad tire ( I plan to rotate them to see if that is the cause ) or a wheel or axle bearing ? To note I replaced the front wheel hub/bearings just about a year ago .
View 2 Replies
2002, Chevy, Suburban 1500, 4wd, 5.3L engine, 210,000 miles. Mass airflow sensor and both O2 sensors replaced last year in an effort to fix this problem. Original problem surfaced when the vehicle was shut down or running uphill and had about 1/2 tank of gas in hot weather. If stopped, the vehicle would not start until it had cooled down. Sometimes getting it onto level ground would be enough to get it running again. ( This accomplished by turning on the key and allowing the vehicle to roll back out of the parking place. ) If running down the road, getting to level ground after the stall, pulling to the shoulder and cooling the engine/waiting a few minutes and restarting the vehicle would work. This was before the above mentioned repairs.
Last weekend in 60 degree weather I was driving back from northern Michigan and as I headed up hill at 75 mph with the tank at 1/2 the vehicle did a high speed stall on me. Symptoms were: RPM showed 2000, but pushing down on the gas actually dropped the RPM no matter how feather-footed I was. This was tried several times. I turned on the 4 ways and moved toward the shoulder and at 50 mph finally got the thing to restart. The rest of the trip home was uneventful.
I had a 2001 Suburban with the same specs which did this same thing until a factory recall that got me a new fuel pump. I asked about the recall the last time my truck was in for service and they said it does not fall within the serial numbers for that recall. Fuel filter replaced about 9 months ago. Co-incidentally but not necessarily related is that my battery with less than 3 years of a 7 year warranty was draining itself in less than 2 days this last winter.
View 8 Replies
Noticed this during a recent trip halfway cross country. It did POUR for part of the trip, but I didn't notice the wetness until a few days after we were at our destination. Further, none of our luggage etc was wet, so I don't suspect a leak in the rubber gaskets along the window. We did have the A/C running constantly while in 90° heat. I checked underneath the car; saw no obvious signs of rust on the underside. I did see a hose and some type of contraption on the passenger side rear, above the muffler - it was dripping water. Is this part of the A/C system, and could it be the cause of dampness in the carpet?
View 1 Replies
My diesel suburban dies while driving. It starts right back up. I have changed the fuel filter and checked for water in fuel.
View 2 Replies
I replaced the oil pressure switch on an '07 Suburban 5.3L because the oil pressure was showing low once the engine warmed up. That did nothing, then I found out about that little filter/screen under the sensor. I intended to remove and clean the filter then reinstall it. While I was pulling it out, I dropped it back behind the engine and couldn't find it. I checked online and found a few people in other forums that said to just remove the screen as a "fix", so I left it out and put the sensor back in, just to get the vehicle drivable. It started right up and ran fine for me, parked it, and a after sitting for a few hours it started popping while driving with the SES light flashing on the drive home.
Code P0300 was set, no cylinder specific misfire codes were present. I checked the misfire data and cylinder #6 showed tens of thousands of misfires, #5 showed several hundred, but I think it was just picking them up from #6 since #5 is right after #6 in the firing order. I disabled each injector with a scan tool, all changed the idle except #6, it did absolutely nothing. #6 fuel injector had good pulse to it, I connected a fuel pressure gauge and put power/ground to injectors #6 and #4, both dropped the same fuel pressure. I did the "cylinder deactivation" test on the scan tool for the four cylinders that have it, they all did the exact same thing - the engine bogged way down for a couple seconds and then died. Is that normal? I can't say I've ever seen a V8 engine die before when running on 6 or 7 cylinders. I checked compression on cylinder #6, it showed very low, almost zero, but I tried it a few times and it would show just a little compression at times... valves staying shut? I'm thinking when I opened the pressure relief valve on the gauge and the piston was near the bottom of the cylinder may be when it showed some compression. I also switched the coil/wire/plug from #6 to other cylinders and the miss did not follow.
Could having that screen out cause this problem? Having the engine die when deactivating the cylinders makes me wonder if maybe it's commanding all four at the same time, although the test shows each cylinder being controlled separately. Using a MODIS, not a TechII. I just got done putting in a new filter/screen to see if it would make any difference, and of course it didn't.
View 3 Replies
I have here a 2001 3/4 ton Suburban. It arrived last fall with 280K miles and a 6.0L V8 that was on its last leg (low to no oil pressure). I dropped in a 5.3L that I had handy, and had been happily driving it throughout the brutal Minnesota winter.
A couple months ago I noticed an issue developing. After a cold start, the engine would be severely lacking in torque for the first minute or so of driving. You could reach any RPM you wished, but the truck could barely accelerate. Once a minute or so had passed in this fashion, the issue would suddenly disappear... you'd be thrown back in your seat a bit if still attempting to accelerate, and the truck would take off. For the remainder of the trip, things would be fine.
Recently I went to drive the truck after it had sat for some weeks. It started fine, but the issue was now more persistent. When trying to accelerate, the gutlessness would continue for a good 15-20 seconds until finally and suddenly disappearing. Let off the gas, wait a moment, try to accelerate again, and it was the same thing all over again. Eventually I also noticed very obvious stumbling/missing when trying to get moving from a dead stop. Idle remained smooth.
The plugs and wires are only a few months old. The fuel filter is new. I checked for vacuum leaks (none that I could find). Fuel pressure is consistently around 50psi, even while the issue is happening.
The MIL was not on. I checked with my scantool, and found that P0101C was set, with P0101 pending. Visually examined the MAF harness and sensor; all looked fine. Swapped in a used working MAF; no change. (I suspect these codes may be due to the fact that I'm running a 5.3 with a stock, unmodified 6.0 PCM.)
My scantool is a Genisys running System 2.0. I'm by no means an expert with it, but I did know enough to try watching the miss counts while the symptom occurred. All cylinders seemed to be missing equally as much as the others, more or less.
Normally I'd be suspecting the fuel pump and/or associated wiring was going bad, but the pressure seems fine. What I might be missing?
View 10 Replies
1995 C1500 Suburban (diesel) ... Felt like the transmission started to slip. And then it slowly started to "idle down while driving". thought maybe out of fuel, so i filled it up. When i turned out of the Gas station it died. about 20 minutes later, it started up but still didn't seem to run at full strength. No engine lights on or anything, light all still worked fine, just the engine shut off on me.
View 6 Replies
After driving through high water (only 12"-18" deep), my 2002 Suburban stalled. It restarted but runs rough, doesn't idle well, and still stalls and sputters under acceleration. A week later (it's been dry and I've driven it 70 or so miles since the water), it's still stalling and sputtering. Under braking, I must keep the accelerator down enough to keep the RPMs slightly above 1000 or it will stall. Obviously something got wet that shouldn't have gotten wet.
View 1 Replies
I noticed coming home from work that my 2010 prius is making a scraping noise as I drive. I don't have far to drive and i drove slow but I did notice it. I see the rim of the wheel is scraped and the tire is too like it got hit somehow.
I can't seem to figure out what is causing it and i'm afraid to drive it anywhere because the nearest toyota dealership is about 20 miles away via highway.
Its like part of something is scraping as the wheel goes around. its not a constant scraping. That and I notice the steering wheel is pulling to the right.
View 7 Replies
As of yesterday evening my 2002 Chevrolet Suburban 1500, shuts off while im driving. Takes about two to five minutes to get it going again (has shut off a couple times) Starts up fine idles great, problems start about a mile or two of being driven.
View 1 Replies
2001 Ford Focus ZTS manual. Squeaking/scraping is the best that I can describe it, happens sometimes while driving maybe 20 mph. Also makes a rapid clicking noise when starting from a stop, groaning noise with engine on/off while turning wheel from same area. I did pads/rotors last year. I had play in the wheel, axle nut was loose, tightened and went away. I can't find any problems. It can make some noises under heavy braking and it was making noise from moderate braking, I'm guessing that's my cheap rotors.
View 2 Replies
This is a 2001 Prius - car runs great and the AC is fine. However, driving down the road, when the AC is turned on there is a noticeable scraping/ticking noise - sounds like it coming from under the hood.
With the car parked, and the ignition ON, but without the gas engine running, there is no scraping noise.
View 4 Replies
Vehicle is a 94 Suburban. The front brakes were done approximately 14K miles ago. Rear about 10K miles ago. Ever since the front brake job (new rotors, pads) there has been a sound, sort of like spring tension being released whenever I (quickly) release the brake pedal. I think I notice it now more than ever because I don't have working ac and the windows are usually down. The thing is, if I slowly release the pedal I hear nothing. When it does happen it is definitely coming from the front and is more predominant (I think) on the right side. So far I have yet to hear this sound coming from any other vehicle stopped beside me in traffic so something must be out of whack.
I mentioned this to the mechanic who did the brakes (only shortly thereafter) and he checked it out and said nothing was amiss. Recently I had new tires installed so I asked the (different) mechanic to check the brakes again (front and rear). Apart from cleaning out the drums and a minor adjustment on the rear they said everything was good. Now I've never had any issues with stopping and I've had a few hard braking episodes without incident but this snapping noise for want of a better description is driving me nuts. One final observation: I cannot get the 'sound' to occur when I am sitting in Park and depress and then quickly release the brake pedal.
View 3 Replies
So...I just took my car in last week to replace the TPS and noticed that the car is now making a weird sound when I reverse (out of parking spaces, etc). The sounds seems to be coming from the rear of the car the sound is similar to metal scraping concrete and happens intermittently. I'm wondering if this is a random coincidence or if this could be related to the recent work done on the TPS. If my brakes hadn't been completely replaced a year ago, I'd suspect it might be those. What could cause this sound?
View 5 Replies
My Sub makes a wonderful ticking noise that resembles a turn signal--it continues to tick until i apply the brakes. i have just replaced the brake switch and the noise is still there. All the lights on the vehicle are not illuminated while it is making the noise, it makes the noise while either driving or idling.
View 4 Replies
2003 Chevy suburban, 115K miles, accelerating I hear a squeal/groan/clicking noise coming from right front of engine. Did not happen this winter, started again in spring. Loses power if stay on accelerator. If let off and then reapply, it will momentarily go away. Appears to be only when air conditioning on. Bad AC or just the pulley?
View 1 Replies
I have a 2002 chevy suburban 4wd with 156000 miles.. I had tires replaced last week due to them being chopped. They caused a low humming noise between 65-70mph. That was coming from the front.Below or above this speed the sound was not noticeable. I had new Coper AT-3 tires replace all around and balanced 5 days ago. The noise has become worse and starts at 61 mph and gets louder up to 70 an with a slight vibration . I have not gone above that speed to se if the noise goes away as I feel a bit uncomfortable going any faster with this issue . The tires were balanced so was wondering if I have bad tires or if the new tires being all terrain are causing more strain on what could be a bearing. The wheel bearings are fine and the rear bearings and pinion bearing were replaced two months ago . I know all terrains will make noise but not to this extent .
View 2 Replies
02 Chevy 3500 quits while driving, all electrical shuts off. This is my work van, I am a Honda mechanic and can't figure it out. I need my truck for work on Monday! Think it might be ignition switch??
View 3 Replies
New 2016 Prius has Scraping issues since the car is closer to the ground?
View 19 Replies
