Chevrolet - Suburban :: 1997 Diesel Dies While Driving Then Starts Right Back Up
Jan 18, 2011
My diesel suburban dies while driving. It starts right back up. I have changed the fuel filter and checked for water in fuel.
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Jan 18, 2011
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Chevrolet - Suburban :: 1997 - Diesel Engine Dies - Dashboard Lights Don't Come On
My '97 Chevy Suburban diesel dies at random times. Nothing seems to trigger it; it usually happens when I'm just driving along, minding my own business; not accelerating or decelerating, turning, stopping, etc. Has happened with the fuel tank at every level: full, half full and quarter tank. When it dies, the dashboard lights do NOT come on. When I turn the key "off" and back "on", the lights come on and the engine will crank fine, but won't start. Ten minutes later, it starts and everything is fine. It may not do it again for weeks, or it may do it again in 10 minutes.
This last time, the fuel tank was fairly low -- below a quarter tank -- and it seems to "buck" or "hesitate a little just before it died the first time. The dealer replaced the crankshaft position sensor and the fuel injector pump. When it started doing it again, they ran every diagnostic test they had and could find nothing wrong. Ran fine for a few weeks, then quit three times in 30 minutes. It's back there now.
Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Dies As If Ignition Turned Off Then Starts Right Back Up
Got a late 2004 6.0 that runs excellent. When it is cold (as in not running for half a day, not ambient temp) it dies as if the ignition gets turned off. You can start it right back up no problem. It has been slowly getting worse. You maybe have to start it back up 5-10 times before you can get going in the morning. Also you can hear a random click with ignition just in on position as if there is a connection issue in the dash and cuts ign in and out that I think may be the problem.
I swapped all the relays to different spots to try them. I don't think it's wiring because it does it when cold then works when warm. Guy thinks plugging truck block heater so maybe it work better somewhat. New CMP, CKP, FICM, and it doesn't make a diff. So it's baffling to me. It's obviously electrical and works better when truck is warmed.
Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2004 - Stalled Out While Driving / Starts Then Immediately Dies
Have a 2004 6.0 that stalled out while driving. Wouldn't restart. Took readings this morning. ICP was very low (below 100) and IPR was at 85. After a few times of taking readings I could get the truck to start up with an ICP reading over 500 but IPR was still at 85. When it did start up it would almost immediately die. Does this sound like an IPR problem or a oil pressure problem?
View 5 RepliesChevrolet - 3500 :: 1997 - Stops And Starts While Driving
97 chev PU 3500 350 5.7 stops and starts while driving. Complete tune up ,Fuel pump ,filter , dist. and rotor.
View 4 RepliesSuburban :: 1991 Randomly Dies While Driving
1991 suburban randomly dies while driving..... I will only have headlights and interior lights.... no other power .....wait 5-10 minutes fires right up.
View 1 RepliesChevrolet - Suburban :: Dropping Out Of OD For A Split Second And Then Going Back In
I have a 1990 suburban that has had a rebuilt x-mission about 50,000 miles ago. At this time when I drive there is a hesitation, split second, when running on flat road. It happens when going up a hill, too.My mechanic said change the: plug wires, then the plugs and rotor. No difference.
I think the thing is dropping out of OD for a split second and then going back in. If I drive in 3rd, I don't think it is happening. Isn't there a relay or solenoid that controls this function?
Camry :: Pulled And Put Back Fuel Pump Relay Now Car Starts Then Dies
2002 Camry, i was gonna remove manifold & 1st step was to pull relay to relieve fuel pressure(which it did) but then i needed to use car so i put it back now car turns over & immediately sputters-out unless i depress & hold accelerator. Also, fuel in tank is very low, in case that could be culpable.
View 3 RepliesChevrolet - Celebrity :: 1990 - Dies Without Warning / Starts After Five Or Ten Minutes
I've had my car die twice on me lately. There is absolutely no warning - no sputtering, rough-running- just dies completely. I am still able to crank the engine after this happens, but it won't start immediately. After five or ten minutes, it will start and then run fine. 1990 Celebrity. what this could be and how to fix it?
View 1 RepliesChevrolet - Cavalier :: Starts But Immediately Dies When The Weather Is Cold
I have a 1991 Chevy Cavalier. It usually runs fine, but recently the weather has been colder and it is having issues when I start it in the morning. Granted, I live in Florida so "cold" is only in the 40s. The car will start, but then it immediately dies. I had taken to a mechanic (a family friend) and he said that it was fine the whole time he had it and didn't recommend any repairs. It was running fine for about 2 weeks and now it is doing it again. It does appear to only be doing this when it is cold out, because the issue began when we got our first cold snap.
View 11 RepliesChevrolet - Suburban :: 2002 - Scraping Noise While Driving
OK so - I had the rear axle bearings replaced, but I'm still hearing a rotational scraping noise while moving (whether gas is applied or not, or whether braking is applied). Gets slightly louder the faster I go. But when I turn, the noise goes away. It's hard to pinpoint where the noise is coming from. My wife swears it's in the front; to me it sounds like it's in the middle (so it would be being transmitted from the source).
I took it back to our mechanic, but he can't hear it very well - he admits that his hearing is not what it used to be (he's in his 70s). Only thing he hears is "gear noise in the rear"... meaning he'd have to replace the differential in the back which would be prohibitively expensive and not worth it. He said I should come back in a couple weeks when his younger employee will be back so he can listen for it.
Suburban :: 1999 - RPMs Shoot Up To 2000 Then Back Down To 1500 While Driving
So the other day I was driving to my storage locker about 30 miles away. All of a sudden my rpms would shoot up to 2000 rpms then back down to 1500 . Slowly they would go up higher every time. On my way back I was about 2 miles away and I lost 3rd and 4th a presume. I would be going 20-25 and it felt like it would be shifting up to third but would shift down to 2nd running 3500 rpms. I had to go 20 the rest of the time. Finally I got home and realized my dipstick tube wasn't in the tranny and must have lost oil. So I got it back in and added more. Thought it was the filter and oil so dropped the pan and replaced it. Still nothing.
View 2 RepliesChevrolet - Suburban :: 2000 - Noise And Vibration During Driving At Speeds Of 70 Mpg
I have noticed a louder noise and increase in vibration during driving at speeds of 70mpg + ... What is the cause??
View 1 RepliesStart - Chevrolet - 1500 :: 1997 Suburban Won't Turn On After Parked For Few Days
My 1997 chevy suburban wouldn't start after being parked for a few days. the battery seemed to drained out so quickly and not because the lights were left on. The alternator was replaced less than two years ago. and the battery less than a year ago. I tried to jump start but it did now turn orver. What is the problem?
View 1 RepliesChevrolet - Suburban :: 2007 - Misfire After Working On Engine / SES Light Flashing While Driving
I replaced the oil pressure switch on an '07 Suburban 5.3L because the oil pressure was showing low once the engine warmed up. That did nothing, then I found out about that little filter/screen under the sensor. I intended to remove and clean the filter then reinstall it. While I was pulling it out, I dropped it back behind the engine and couldn't find it. I checked online and found a few people in other forums that said to just remove the screen as a "fix", so I left it out and put the sensor back in, just to get the vehicle drivable. It started right up and ran fine for me, parked it, and a after sitting for a few hours it started popping while driving with the SES light flashing on the drive home.
Code P0300 was set, no cylinder specific misfire codes were present. I checked the misfire data and cylinder #6 showed tens of thousands of misfires, #5 showed several hundred, but I think it was just picking them up from #6 since #5 is right after #6 in the firing order. I disabled each injector with a scan tool, all changed the idle except #6, it did absolutely nothing. #6 fuel injector had good pulse to it, I connected a fuel pressure gauge and put power/ground to injectors #6 and #4, both dropped the same fuel pressure. I did the "cylinder deactivation" test on the scan tool for the four cylinders that have it, they all did the exact same thing - the engine bogged way down for a couple seconds and then died. Is that normal? I can't say I've ever seen a V8 engine die before when running on 6 or 7 cylinders. I checked compression on cylinder #6, it showed very low, almost zero, but I tried it a few times and it would show just a little compression at times... valves staying shut? I'm thinking when I opened the pressure relief valve on the gauge and the piston was near the bottom of the cylinder may be when it showed some compression. I also switched the coil/wire/plug from #6 to other cylinders and the miss did not follow.
Could having that screen out cause this problem? Having the engine die when deactivating the cylinders makes me wonder if maybe it's commanding all four at the same time, although the test shows each cylinder being controlled separately. Using a MODIS, not a TechII. I just got done putting in a new filter/screen to see if it would make any difference, and of course it didn't.
Chevrolet - Suburban :: 2001 - Engine Severely Lacking In Torque For The First Minute Or So Of Driving
I have here a 2001 3/4 ton Suburban. It arrived last fall with 280K miles and a 6.0L V8 that was on its last leg (low to no oil pressure). I dropped in a 5.3L that I had handy, and had been happily driving it throughout the brutal Minnesota winter.
A couple months ago I noticed an issue developing. After a cold start, the engine would be severely lacking in torque for the first minute or so of driving. You could reach any RPM you wished, but the truck could barely accelerate. Once a minute or so had passed in this fashion, the issue would suddenly disappear... you'd be thrown back in your seat a bit if still attempting to accelerate, and the truck would take off. For the remainder of the trip, things would be fine.
Recently I went to drive the truck after it had sat for some weeks. It started fine, but the issue was now more persistent. When trying to accelerate, the gutlessness would continue for a good 15-20 seconds until finally and suddenly disappearing. Let off the gas, wait a moment, try to accelerate again, and it was the same thing all over again. Eventually I also noticed very obvious stumbling/missing when trying to get moving from a dead stop. Idle remained smooth.
The plugs and wires are only a few months old. The fuel filter is new. I checked for vacuum leaks (none that I could find). Fuel pressure is consistently around 50psi, even while the issue is happening.
The MIL was not on. I checked with my scantool, and found that P0101C was set, with P0101 pending. Visually examined the MAF harness and sensor; all looked fine. Swapped in a used working MAF; no change. (I suspect these codes may be due to the fact that I'm running a 5.3 with a stock, unmodified 6.0 PCM.)
My scantool is a Genisys running System 2.0. I'm by no means an expert with it, but I did know enough to try watching the miss counts while the symptom occurred. All cylinders seemed to be missing equally as much as the others, more or less.
Normally I'd be suspecting the fuel pump and/or associated wiring was going bad, but the pressure seems fine. What I might be missing?
Chevrolet - Suburban :: 1995 - Transmission Started To Slip / Slowly Idle Down While Driving
1995 C1500 Suburban (diesel) ... Felt like the transmission started to slip. And then it slowly started to "idle down while driving". thought maybe out of fuel, so i filled it up. When i turned out of the Gas station it died. about 20 minutes later, it started up but still didn't seem to run at full strength. No engine lights on or anything, light all still worked fine, just the engine shut off on me.
View 6 RepliesFord F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2002 - Starts Then Dies?
Truck starts right up. Will die if I dont give it some gas for about 5 seconds of so. No check engine lights. I did leave the hood open yesterday adn the auto sprinklers came on. I completely forgot about it. I check the air filter before I started it and its dry so I dont feel its water intrusion. I shot a quick burst of carb cleaner in the IAC and then reinstalled it. No joy. When running it will idle and runs fine. If I unplug the IAC it stumbles and almost dies. Any way to test the IAc, TPS or MAF sensor ? I hate just throwing parts at them without diagnosing them properly.
View 14 RepliesJeep - Grandcherokee :: Hesitating While Driving Then Starts Rattling And Dies
I have an '03 Jeep Grand Cherokee that has twice had issues with hesitating while driving (like it's not getting gas--tank is full), then starts rattling, then dies. I had it towed to the shop 3 weeks ago. "loss of cam or crank sensor misfire codes found loose connection at pcm, connector 4, re-attach connector to lock position, erase codes". Picked it up after work was done. When driving it to work two days ago, the same exact situation presented. Had it towed again to shop. They're saying they ran it all day and cannot get any codes to come up and that 90% of the time it's the cam sensor. He also said 1/3 of the time (math issues) it's the computer. How can you know if it's the cam sensor or the computer?
View 6 RepliesCamry :: 2007 Starts But After Driving A Short Distance Dies
I have a 2007 Camry that starts and runs fine, but after driving a short distance it dies. After sitting for some time, the car starts back up and runs fine again.
View 2 RepliesHonda - Cr-v :: 1997 Starts Fine Then Dies Only In Warm Weather
Our car starts, then dies. It starts fine, then dies. This only happens in warm weather, which we have finally been experiencing in Northern Illinois. It eventually gets to the point where we can drive it, but then might die at a stop sign, or it can go the rest of the day and not have any difficulties. I know later models have timing chains, not belts. Does our car have a timing belt problem or maybe fuel pump? And why only in warm weather?
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