Chevrolet - Suburban :: 1994 - Won't Engage The Front Drive Shaft
Mar 16, 2012
My 1994 Chevy Suburban will not engage the front drive shaft. It has an electric actuator and it will not engage. the transfer case engages but not the front axal. When I shift the transfer case into 4Hi or 4Low it will shift itself but the light will not turn on. I have heared rumors that you might have to manualy connect it to the battery and have a kill switch in the cab. What is the problem and should I connect it manualy?
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I have a slight leak at the front differential and drive shaft. It is nothing major and I don't even notice a oil slick under the truck when it sits for a longer period of time.
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I have a 94 C2500 suburban with a TBI 454BB. Obviously, I'm not concerned with fuel mileage, but I am currently getting about 4 miles to the gallon because the idle is stuck at 1800RPM. Normal idle for my model according to the index book is 750RPM. it's usually pretty close to that when operating normally (+/-25RPM). 3 days ago I did my biannual throttle body cleaning. Took it completely off replaced the gasket cleaned the throttle body and put it all back together. This is when the problem started... It now idles at 2300 RPM, it threw the code for bad idle air control valve, and I figured I probably got the plug wet when cleaning the throttle body, so I went ahead and ate the 60 bucks and replaced it.
Went through the reset process for the ECM to learn the new one and it the idle has come down to 1800RPM, it also literally DUMPING fuel through the injectors into the top of the throttle body. While I don't believe it is actually running rich, it seems more like the idle is trying to compensate for the excess fuel that is being dumped into the top end. Now, Before I go any further I want someone else's input. "I" think it is a also a bad throttle position sensor that probably got wet when cleaning the TB. But I am worried it could also be the PCM has finally gone out, although this is probably not likely because the entire ignition is run by this and if it was bad, it would stand to reason that it wouldn't run at all. Or it could be a bad vacuums control module. I have checked all my vacuum lines and do not have any leaks, so I know that isn't the problem. So that's where I am. I am hoping to check the leads on the TPS today with a ohm meter. I know my resistance levels.
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"step on gas, truck feel like it is pulling a house, slight buck, but with more gas it moves, it has good presure out the exhast, all wheels are turning freely, engine idles great has lots of power,"
tested, cyl pressure, fine
check engine timing, fine
made sure all wheels spin freely, fine
check all fluids, fine
slight pinging sound can be heard, from time to time from center of truck. I'm thinking torque convertor. Feels like engine is binding only when you put it in gear.
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I have a 1999 Ford F250 super duty 4wheel drive, lifted (really a leveling kit but had to lift rear to compensate), 5.4l. Im having a problem with my front shaft turning while in 2 wheel drive. Hubs aren't locked and its in 2 wheel not 4. I've taken hubs off and the bearing spins free soo I know its in auto. Why is the drive shaft still turning???????
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What are symptons of a "bad" drive shaft? Just curious because during a recent trip to the dealership for an oil change a mechanic told me I had one(I had mentioned I heard a noise that seemed to speed up and slow down as I drove-kind of a whirring noise). He arrived at that diagnosis by pushing down on the hood with enough force to make the vehicle(2002 Chevy Trail Blazer w/4wd) bounce up and down - there was a clunking noise. I haven't taken it in to have it looked at more closely, mainly because I am afraid of the cost. What's involved in replacing a drive shaft? What's the cost? If it is really "bad" will it break suddenly and cause an accident?
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I have a 94 Chevy Suburban C1500 with a 5.7L, 350 Engine. It has 235,000 miles on it. I purchased it about 4 years ago with 191,000 miles in very good condition and obviously well maintained. I have continued to maintain it well.
For the past few months it has begun to start a little slower that before and when accelerating cold or warm there is a spot where it looses power. It doesn't sputter or die it just looses power. I can press the accelerator farther and it will come back to life and do fine. After a 20 -30 minute drive if I park for a while, 20 - 30 minutes, when I start it up it dies. The only way to keep it running is to give it the gas and smooth it out at about 1500 rpm for 10 - 15 seconds. Then I can drive it with no problem most of the time though it still has the dead spot on acceleration.
There is a good spray pattern from the throttle body injectors. Plugs and wires are relatively new and plugs look good (AC Delco Rapidfire Platinum). When I turn on the ignition without going to start, the fuel pump builds pressure for 4 - 6 seconds. I haven't checked the fuel pressure yet and am considering investing in the rig to do so. I recently replaced the fuel filter but that didn't work.
The check engine light has not come on but many of the lights in the cluster are burned out and I haven't felt like going to the trouble to fix that so it is possible that the check engine bulb is bad.
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My 2003 Suburban shakes when I drive over 70 mph. I don't know if the tires need realignment?
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My mechanic tells me that the hold up or carrier bearings on the drive shaft of my 2005 Equinox need to be replaced. He says that about half the time this cannot be accomplished and that I might have to replace the entire drive shaft. From the research I have done, it seems that a press (?) and blow torches are needed to replace the bearings. I can't afford the new drive shaft, but I could afford to replace the bearings if I could find someone who was sure they could accomplish this.
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I have a 1994 suburban1500 heater is not working in front or rear and in the front I have no control on the vents it only blows on the floor flashes if I try and change from floor to vents or defrost also blows air on floor while driving with the fan off so seems that the vent is stuck open the rear I have control on vent or floor just will not blow heat just outside temp air I had the same problem with a buick I had and never figured out the problem this is driving me crazy.
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Overhaul trans, new old pump, but doesn't engage in drive. Reverse and all three low work fine. Drive will only work when rpm's are applied. But without any power.
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2001 Jimmy 4wd, 115,000 miles; Recently I noticed a strong vibration when in 4WD, no vibration in 2wd. I found that the rear joint (at the transfer case) of the front drive shaft has play in it. I am assuming that this is the problem. It has the appearance of a CV joint. Is that joint rebuildable or do I need to replace the shaft?
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I am wanting to remove my front drive shaft from my 2004 Aviator for a couple of month's while I save money to have my transfer case replaced. Are there any safety concerns with this? just need a couple of month's to get the money together....
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I am doing some work on the truck and need to get the front drive shaft to drop down, I have the four bolts out but I can not get it to move. What am I not doing?
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My front diff appears to be leaking from the drive shaft output. it's not enough to leave drips but the skid plates are oily. Having the dealer look next week. 60k on a 2011 460.
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My t case will engage in 4 high and 4 low. so i know the switch and motor works because it go all the way to 4 low and i can feel the lower gears. BUT the front drive shaft is not turning because i know that the front diff is engaging just fine cus one I just fixed it and because when i put it in 4x4 the front drive shaft is locked in but when i take it out the drive shaft moves freely when i turn it by hand. But when I test it in gravel or mud the front wheels still ain't turning. So its gota be the t case. But what are the part that may be broken in the t case and if I can fix it wile its still on the truck.
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Not sure what caused it to break but my front driveshaft split in half. I had it in 4wd and was doing a K turn to back in my driveway in a snow storm.
I got underneath in the snow (miserable) and wasn't able to come close to getting it off. The bolts holding the shaft onto the t-case will not budge and the tiny 5/16" bolts stripped all my small 1/4" sockets. I'm guessing I need a 3/8" drive 5/16" for front and the rear just spins. Any tricks to getting this off the truck.
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On my 2012 Camry XLE with 22,500 miles, just had the drivers side drive shaft assembly replaced, under warranty. Was getting a clicking sound when turning. Not too happy, car comes off warranty in September. They also updated computer on a recall for the torque shutter.
Then he tells me I need an oil change (was just done, oil shiny clean). He said oil looked dirty. Also said I needed a fuel injection cleaning (at 22.5k?), and new tires. OEM tires are garbage. Wheres the Toyota quality and integrity?
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I bought this 2010 f150 from the company I work for, front diff was shot, front drive shaft was in the bed, that's all I knew about the truck so I bought a complete front diff from a used place, it only has 58000km on it, good diff... So I installed the diff and the old front drive shaft, which doesn't seem to be in the best condition, now when 4 wheel drive is engaged I'm getting a constant clunk/binding noise from the front driveshaft area. Where to start looking.
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I finally got my lift installed the other day from PMF. My question is how do I get my pinion angle corrected on the front drive shaft? I know Trevor sells a Tcase clocking adapter may have to go that route IDK Unlike the rear there's only so much pitch you can put on the front axle until it causes issues with steering. I was thinking of going with an aftermarket front drive shaft designed to handle harsher angles.
I live in the mountains and after installing the lift and pulling a trailer on some of theses steeper gravel roads I can feel a harshness or something coming from under to front of the truck. I'm unable to post pics since I'm back on the road but I can visually see the front drive shaft angle is definitely not in line like it was.
I'm currently running PMF 2.5 alpha with a 1'' spacer and 3 link kit up front and 5'' progressive leafs and traction bars out back. I was able to fix my rear shaft angle using shims on my carrier bearing ( not really a big fan having 1 1/2'' of stacked shims BTW ) ....
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I am a new 6.7 owner and had/ have a 7.3 As I have been getting to know the truck I have been under it and noticed that the front drive shaft and axle are locked in. My hubs are switched to auto but I know on my 2000 7.3 when my hubs are on auto my front axle and driveshaft are disengaged... I'm wondering if the new 4x4 system is different. I know that can save on MPG
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