Chevrolet - Sparkplugs :: Check Engine Light On 1998 Malibu LS
Jun 30, 2013
After filling the gas tank yesterday, as I was on my way to work, the check engine light came on. For the last couple of days the temperatures outside have reached 118 degrees. I have checked the oil and coolant and have resealed the gas cap as well, yet the light still remains. The research I have done leads me to believe the problem may be the catalytic converter, but I'm wondering if there is any further troubleshooting I can do without heading to a mechanic.
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2005 Malibu 2.2L 4 cyl.109,000 miles
If I hit a bump too hard the Check Engine light comes on because the gas cap pops out. Dealer told me this is a common problem with many of the Chevy models earlier than 2007. GM doesn't have a solution, either.
Since none of these cars have a locking mechanism I decided to get a locking cap at NAPA because the locking mechanism would hold the cap in place. Nope! The locking cap is even worse.
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When I tried to turn left yesterday, my car suddenly stopped with both the "check engine" light and "battery" light on, but the heat, headlights and radio were working just fine. I turned off the engine, and waiting a few minutes, ad then restarted the car, and everything is fine. I do not drive the car today. My question: is this a problem with the battery or the electric line? When the "battery" light is on, can i conclude it's a problem limited to the electric line only rather than a fuel line. My car is Chevy Malibu, 1999, with 90,000 mileages on it.
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My 2008 Malibu service manual states that the check engine light should briefly come on when I start my engine. When the engine is cold this does not happen. Also, it happens infrequently when the engine is warm. My Chevrolet dealer says this is normal as the light checks out when tested. Chevrolet has not given me a difinitive answer on this. My concern is that if this is a problem it may surface at another time when the light should go on and cause damage if not attended to. If the manual says the check engine light should go on when the engine is started and it doesn't, doesn't this mean something is wrong?
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I have a 2006 Chevy Malibu 125,000 miles, 2.2 Engine that was running sluggish, noisy like needed oil (checked didn't) and check engine light was on. Took it to a repair shop and told needed an oil change, car still ran sluggish, told to drive it a day or so. Two days later, car wouldn't go over 50 mph, took it back and told needed air filter and mass air flow cleaned. After they did that, they told me the Catalytic converter needed replaced however they don't do that work. Within a week car would not run so had the cat replaced.
Car ran better but still not great. Took it to another place, spark plugs replaced, throttle body cleaned and fuel injector cleaner added to gas.Still the car ran sluggish and was making noise and check engine light was on. Took it to parts store to have code checked on check engine and said error in bank one of oxygen sensor. I replaced that, reset the light and am sure you know, it still runs bad and noisy and check engine light came back on. I am losing power on hills and big hills the engine rattles.
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I have a 2008 Kia Rio, 4 Cyl 1.6L, and recently the check engine light came on and the car started running real rough after getting the timing belt replaced at firestone. I took it back to Firestone and they said that 2 of the cylinders where misfiring and i need to replace the ignition coils and the corresponding spark plugs, but that i also want to get a catalytic converter cleaning or flush or something like that because of the unburnt gas that was running into the converter. Is this true? They want to charge me another 100.00 for the cleaning on top of the 300.00 to replace the 2 ignition coils and spark plugs, should i get this done or can i clean it out myself?
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I have a 1998 chevy 3500 2wd pickup with a 454 engine. The check engine light is on. I have had the codes read and they were for a MAF and MAP sensors. I have replaced both. The check engine light is still on saying that I have a bad MAF sensor. I replaced it again. The check engine light still is on. What else should I look at to fix this problem??
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Started having problems with my Chevy Malibu (1999, with 95,000 miles on it) while driving two times this week. Both times an alert warning flashed on my dashboard. The first time, flashed the brake check and ABS warning on the left side of the dashboard, and the second time the check oil and check battery warning on the right side. In both cases, after the warnings flashed, the car was still running, but stepping on the gas pedal resulted in no acceleration, but brakes still worked. The steering wheel also locks-up to the point where I can't turn any more. Both times, I stopped and shut off the engine, waited about 30 seconds and restarted, after which everything is fine and normal. The brake pads were changed recently, but not the rotors which may not be in very good shape.
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I have a 2001 malibu , my cars engine light has been for about a week. This is the second time it has happened. lately I have been having trouble starting my car. Does this have anything to do with my car , or because of the cold weather? How important is it for me to get my car checked out?
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I recently replaced the head gaskets in my 2003 Malibu. First time and all seems other than it runs rough at stop lights. The check engine came back on and so I had it read and there is an air flow issue. Is there anywhere that I can get a schematic for the vacum lines? I have all over and cannot seem to find a loose or broken one.
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2001 with the 3.1 6cyl. First thing that started this nightmare is I was noticing a bit of a hiccup after driving for a couple miles. We've only had the car a few months and not sure what maintenance was done so we thought maybe it needed a tune up. Before I got the parts the check engine light came on so I went to parts store to get it read, it was P0302.
Did the wires and plugs and it got worse, the code wasn't p0302 now its just p0300. But after the plugs it also started idling really rough and would be slow to shift. Once it tacked up high and wasn't speeding up. That was only once tho. Also now it has no power its like driving a 2cyl ...
Anyway we decided since the first code said 2 we replaced coil 2, no luck..ok, fuel filter and fuel injector 2, no luck. Also has cleaned various things Im not sure of the technical name for..sensors and air filters and other things.
None of this has worked the car still idles very bad and doesn't have the power it should have. Also cleaned things on fuel rail(?). He is in the process of replacing the crank sensor as someone said if it was all the way bad it would throw a different code but it may just be faulty.
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I recently had the high and low pressure tubes on my power steering fail causing a total loss of fluid. After about a week of living with manual steering, I brought it in and had the tubing replaced. Everything worked fine, though the steering felt a bit sloppy to me. Today, on my way home from a 100 mile trip, the car decided that turning left just wasn't something it wanted to do.
So to turn left, I would have to back up and turn the wheels to the right. Not exactly an efficient way to drive in traffic. Do I try to get the car back into my mechanics place to see if he can fix it for a reasonable amount, or should just bite the bullet and look for a newer car? BTW when I had brought the car in for the tubing replacement, they showed me where the bracket holding the strut on the left had begun to crack, probably from driving without the power steering. 1998 Malibu LS ....
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I have been dealing w/ a broken gas gauge for a while and have been monitoring my mileage and fill-ups and have been able to calculate my gas usage pretty well, however sometimes I may get a little lost on where my level is at. I just recently have been using a long plastic tie strap that reaches the end (I think) of the gas intake and I believe hits the gas tank. (Its goes in about 4' and I cannot push it any further at that point)
My question is when it comes up w/ no gasoline on it I am wondering how many gallons are remaining. Looking at a diagram of the gas tank it looks concave, where some of the gas may sit lower that where my tie hits. But I am almost certain that I have at least a few gallons remaining. For safety and other reasons this is not something that I am doing often, its just in this case I am a few miles from a gas station so I do not want to risk it.
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1090 Lumina Sedan 3.1 ... First time it had starting issues Recently. About 2 months ago my lumina's engine would die when i pushed down on the gas pedal. After 2 days of trying to fix the issue it wouldn't start at all, i replaced:
TPS
MAP/MAT Sensor
Fuel Filter
None of these worked so i sent it to a shop, they replaced:
ECM
Multi Port Injection (All 6 Injectors)
TPS (even though i had just installed a new one)
Serpentine Belt (it broke when they were test driving it after the Repairs were done)
The car would not start even after they replaced the first 3 parts on the list, so the tech looked further at the engine and found frayed and open wires, on the bottom near the front side passenger door, he repaired these wires and the car started and ran.
The only issues i had after their repair was a rough idle while braking and/or when i was at a full stop, the rough idle went away after a few days of driving.
((Current No Start Issues))A week ago i had what i am guessing is a few electrical issues: Speedometer Twitching and then dropping to nothing while driving, temp and oil light popping on and then off, when the engine was at a good temp and the oil was fine when i had checked the day before.
I went out a few days ago to run some errands and on my way home i turned a corner and when i put my foot down on the gas pedal the car just went "Put-put Put-put" every time i pushed the pedal more than a 1/4 of the way down. i reach a stop sign and being i was in the middle of nowhere and no one was coming down the road for miles i braked slightly and went past the stop sign halfway through my turn the engine died and i coasted to the side of the road, i got out and checked the engine, i had coolant not a whole lot but enough, then i checked the oil and it as far as i could tell it was at the add line even though it had been fine a few days before,(there has been no indication of an oil leak).
I rechecked the coolant and it looked like there was more in there than there was a few minutes before but i couldn't be sure, i was able to get the car restarted and headed towards home (about 2 miles away).at this point i was able to get the car going at around 25-45mph on the next sharp corner i turned the engine died again so i restarted and kept going, it died once more right before i reached the driveway but i was able to coast the rest of the way, once i parked the car i turned the engine off and tried to restart it a minute later and it started again so i left it be and called someone to bring me some oil, when they got to me with the oil i put some in and and it would not start at all.
- I checked one of the spark plug wires and it is not getting any spark.
- The ground terminal on the battery seems to be stripped
- The battery / altenator / starter---- All read to be between 12.15 and 12.36 volts
- The head lights, instrument panel and such still turn on properly.
I'm at a loss here, it was just in the shop 20 days ago and now it isn't working again. I would prefer to not have to put it back in the shop, if it might be something i could repair from home.
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My 98 chevy luminas service engine light came on after I got gas. I put vaseline around the threads to seal it and the light went out for 2 days and then came on again. I bought a new cap and the same thing happened, two days light out than back on. I took the car to Autozone and did a diagnostics test which came back with error message P0341, then took it a mechanic who ran his on diagnostics on it and he says the camshaft sensor needs changed. It is a semi expensive job for an older car and I want to be sure that that is the problem, plus the gas cap thing has me confused.
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I have a 2003 Chevrolet Malibu LS.
The bulb for the parking light on the right headlight doesn't come on, it only comes on when the turning signal is activated. I'm not sure if it's the bulb or the fuse? If it's the fuse, do I need to buy electrical gloves and disconnect the battery before I "operate".
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The ABS light in my wife's car goes on and off intermittently with no apparent. The car has about 47,000 miles on it. Bad connection, computer going haywire, loose or corroded wiring?
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Lets start at the beginning. About two weeks ago my girlfriend got a check engine light and the car started missing( 98 Passat 1.8T, 5 speed). Checked obvious things like fuel delivery-good. Pulled coil packs and had no spark on #2 cyl. Investigated more and found one of the pins on the ign. control module was shorted. Felt pretty sure that was the problem since everything else checked out. Ordered a Huco installed it and that fixed the problem except the car seemed slow reprogramming to the new part. I disconnected the battery to clear the memory and that seemed to do the trick.
About 2 weeks later my GF is coming home and fortunately it died in front of the apartment. Checked everything again. Getting fuel, no wires shorted on ign. or fuel harness plus they all get power just no signal when checking with an LED tester. Ign. module was good also. Checked speed sensor for resistance per the book it was good. Tried a new Camshaft Pos. Sensor hoping that was the problem, no luck. I believe it must be the computer. I'm trying to get one from a salvage yard. I don't know if the old computer can be reprogrammed or not. Also was wondering if the dealer(where I really do not want to go) can test the computer somehow and tell me if it is bad or not(don't know if I would trust them anyway), just wanted to include that option.
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The check engine light is blinking on my 98 Mazda Protege. I'd like to purchase one of those little hand held computers so that I can diagnose the problem myself. Should I leave it up to the professionals?
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Out of nowhere my check engine light came on bought some oil thought it was low, and i just recently got an oil change. Checked my sparks and it was okay. Couple hours later my car began over heating With engine light still on, and my temperature gauges increased knew something was wrong, filled it with anti freeze to cool it down, continued driving and the issue continued. Bought me a knew sensor, I noticed it worked but did not fix the issue, my car continues to over heat, couple days later without driving it, this morning on my way to work it was really cold so my car did not overheat, but my check engine light began blinking and my vehicle began rattling from my house all the way to work, for about 9 miles. Whats wrong with it? Is it safe to drive back home after work.??
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I have a 06 chevy 3500 express van with a 6.0 engine. The engine light came on about the O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 1 and bank 2 sensor 1 came up on the on the scan tool. It run great. how do I fix it
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