Chevrolet - Sonic :: 2013 - Battery Died 3 Times In One Week
Aug 15, 2016
My 2013 Sonic has died three times this week. After charging, the car runs fine, and will start up another 5-6 times with no problem. I can even turn the car off immediately after disconnecting jumper cables, and it will turn back on. I took it to Autozone to be tested yesterday, and my battery, alternator, and starter passed. (Alternator is only about 10/11 mos old. Battery and starter have never been replaced) When the battery is dead, I hear a rapid clicking sound, the interior lights are dim, and headlights wont work, Sometimes the dash lights come on, other times they don't.
Some other issues that have been going on which may or may not be related are, catalytic converter and fuel solenoid valve are faulty, and will be replaced this week. Also my car window will go down but will not come up, (no noise when attempting to roll up the window, so i don't think its off track) and the windshield wiper squirts the washer liquid under the hood, and not on the window. (Havent gotten to diagnose those issues yet).
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I'm noticing some odd behavior from my Brand New (50 miles) Chevy Sonic. When I get to about 40-45 mph steady, the car seems to apply a small amount of braking every few seconds. The effect is strong enough that my head bobs forward somewhat.
On a long drive, I could see it getting VERY annoying. It really "feels' like braking and not like engine sluggishness, but I"m not 100% sure. I was thinking traction control. I'm going to the shop next week but would be nice to be pre-loaded with some ideas, maybe even some things I could look into myself.
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So for the past week or so, I've been having problems with my cooling system. (May or may not be related to my air valve stuck open code, just thought I'd mention it.) First thing that drew my attention to the problem was smoke (or steam) coming from under the hood, I let the car cool off, and drove home. During this time I also noticed the heat stopped working. I went to get some coolant in another car and filled it up. Smoke went away, and heat started working again.
Later the same day I checked the reservoir and it looked low so I figured the radiator sucked all the coolant up, so I refilled the resivoir tank. I spilled a nice amount when doing that, and the steam came back. It cooled down again and no more steam, figured it burnt off. The next few mornings on my first drive of the day ONLY, I saw steam. Thought it was the condensation mixing with the leftover coolant that I spilled since it didn't happen at all until the next morning.
Today was the first time it started steaming at night, and the heat stopped working again, even though the reservoir level was mostly full. I let the car cool down, and then I added more coolant and the heat started working again, no more steam either. Looked under the hood once I got home, abt a 20 min drive, resivoir was nearly empty even though car was still warm. No visible leaks on the smaller reservoir hose but there are puddles under the hood.
I've read it could be a leak of course, but also the Cap could be preventing the right pressure to suck fluid back in radiator after expanding into the surge tank, or something causing the tank to boil over....
Car is a 2013 Chevy Sonic with 68,000 miles. Coolant has never been drained/refilled since I bought the car new in 2013.
[IMG] ....
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I have a 1999 Jeep Cherokee Sport, 4.0L (6 cylinder) that has 128,000 miles on it. Within the last two months it has started lurching 1 to 3 times per week. It only lurches once but always when the engine is hot and when accelerating. The engine light does not come on. It also loses power for several seconds at other times. Lastly, it has stalled two times in three weeks when I am coming to a stop. The spark plugs and air filter were changed last week. The injectors were also cleaned.
I do not have the skills to fix it and am taking it to the dealership which is very expensive - thus the money drain. Any thoughts on what might be going on? Or is it better to just cut my losses and look for another car. I would really like to keep this car for another year because I am in graduate school but am not willing to continue with the money drain.
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2006's battery will die after 1 week of non-use. It is a new battery. Does that sound normal?
The car does have the Toyota VIP alarm if that makes a difference.
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We have had a problem with our SC430 battery going dead if it sits more than a week. We have had this car for a number of years and I am tired of putting a trickle charger on it all the time to keep it from going dead!
I can not believe that Lexus does not know what the big drain is on this vehicle when it sits even for a small period of time....I went to a Lexus dealer several years ago to have a new timing belt/water pump put in it and asked how to keep my battery from going dead. They pointed over the parts counter to a motorcycle type battery charger as they answer!
A friend has a late model Mercedes hardtop convertible, they (Mercedes) solved the problem by putting two batteries in it. One is isolated for just cranking! So, before I start with a fully charged battery and pulling every fuse and disconnecting everything until I find it. What is the big battery eater?
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I drive my solara pretty infrequently, but even so I am surprised by the way the battery drains to completely dead if I don't drive the thing for a week. 1 year old battery, presumably good per the folks at Schucks and its place in the price range, but if I don't actively drive the car - dead. It seems like there must be a bunch of electrical drain even when turned off, Also, when jumping (which is far too common an event) it doesn't work well unless I put the negative cord on the negative terminal instead of grounding it on the chassis like I typically do.
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I am away for a week and a half, the Touareg is at LAX in a indoor parking garage (WallyPark) the whole time. When I come back, the battery is dead. What is the probability of this actually happening? I know that it is common on 04's but I don't know how 05's are.
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my 2005 V10 Ex is garage kept. I work at home and have a different daily driver so it usually goes out once a week.
At 40,000 miles and 10 years...it still has the original factory installed battery. I keep a tender on it if it's going to sit a while and so far everything has been OK.
At 10 years, should I replace the battery just to avoid a potential problem?
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I have a '96 4Runner (4WD V6 SR5) with 215k miles which had been running great until I parked it at work for a week & a half business trip and came back to a dead battery. I jump started it this morning and it ran fine until I disconnected the jumper cables, at which point it immediately started running rough (hesitating, almost dying) and the windshield wipers went to the high setting (they weren't on before) and all the lights on the instrument panel were on (check eng, etc.).
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2006 chevy Colorado, 4 cyl engine, 50000 miles, at times when engine is warm it won't restart, when cold no problem, starter turns engine over OK, just won't start, wait 15--30 minutes starts OK... when engine is running it runs good..drives good, Chevy Dealer found no problems, I can find no fault codes when hooked up...
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I own a 1994 Chevy Beauville. 12 passenger G-30 (1 ton) with 48k on the 305 V-8. Starting last year I have had problems starting it. At first it was just having to crank it 5 or 10 times. This was random, sometimes weeks would go by with no problems. But it became more frequent as the year wore on. Then twice, while driving, the motor shut off. The check engine light would come on and it would take the usual 5 to 10 cranks it start it. By the time I got to the local garage the light would be off and the set codes would show nothing likely to fix.
Continued this year so finally left it at shop for a week. Not once did it act up, so rolled the dice and installed a rebuilt distributor last week. Took it for a drive yesterday and after 15 miles of driving the motor shut off twice within a mile. Would not restart so had it towed back to garage. Several codes where set so they started looking. Spark tester showed no spark so they put on a test coil and it started right up. Switched back to my coil and, of course, it started right up. They checked for voltage drop but it's ok. Also checked for loose wires. Now when they start it, it runs for 15 seconds and stalls. Saw this happen multiple times.
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My Jetta ( unleaded, automatic transmission) has stalled on me 3 times. It was gone days between stalling. Each time it has stalled I was stopped and on level surfaces. Two of those times it was in park and once it was in drive. Twice I was able to restart the car immediately and once it kept stalling each time I tried to restart it. I waited about 20 minutes and was able to restart it. The system said that the oil viscosity is incorrect but they replaced the oil.
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Alright. I'm a handyman by trade but have only done regular maintenance on my vehicles - I'm no expert. I've searched several forums for this information but have found 1000 different answers, mostly for other makes and models. My truck is a 1998 Chevy Cheyenne 1500, 5.0L V8, 137k miles, last tune up at 110k miles. Use valvoline oil explicitly, and change every 4k miles.
I got into my truck this morning, it turned over, and then died. The gauges all activated and displayed adequate oil pressure, battery power, etc. My RPMs got to 1000 for a second and then back to zero. I tried pumping the gas pedal a bit and nothing changed. It will do the same trick over and over with no difference based on time in between.
So I pulled the air filter off and changed the spark plugs and wires. The spark plugs were moderately worn and two had some corrosion. I used the correct gap on my gauge (.06 or .6, don't remember) and I've done spark plug changes a few times in different vehicles. I'm pretty sure it was done correctly. Also, I noticed that the coolant was low, so I filled it up, and added a quart of oil.
No luck. Exact same thing is happening. I really want to avoid electrical issues (don't we all!) and would like to check other things first...
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Searched and found you tube video to get battery out but doesn't work on my fob. Mine slides open and once opened can't find battery, Vw shop if closed, can't lock or unlock doors?
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We have had this problem about 3 months. The ac blower wont blow at different times. When it does blow it blows as hard and cold as it should be, however random times when we get in the car and turn the ac or heater on nothing blows out. Occasionally when driving it will just come on but usually if when you turn the car on and its not blowing it wont. We have noticed in the morning it almost always comes on especially now that its colder.
However today after it blowing fine all morning when I got in the car and turned the ac on nothing happens, its about 80 today here. Yesterday it blew fine and cold all day and this morning the heat blew perfectly. Doesn't seem like the blower motor is out since it clearly works when it does run. Maybe a fuse or something in electrical that keeps shorting?
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A/C in my 2015 ES350 (25K miles) has failed 2 times.
1. Outside temp 92 Deg. I start the car and turn on the A/C. It is pumping hot air. I wait 5 min. It is still pumping hot air. I switch it off and start again. It pumps cold air.
2. Outside temp 94 Deg. I start the car and turn on the A/C. It is pumping hot air. I turn it off and on. No luck continued to pump hot air. Next morning out side temp 77 Deg. I start the A/C works fine.
I took it to the dealer. He says unless he can see the failure he cannot do any thing.
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I have a 09 chevy aveo5 and just recently when i fill up my car it sputters and stalls 2-3 times before it stays on, I never let it get completely empty could this be a air in my gas line?
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2009 Chevy Malibu. My car's cruise control kicks off at random times. The control on the steering wheel will not re-engage the cruise control. It stops working until some random time down the road when I can finally reset. The tach will jump from 2 to 3 and seems to feel like it is shifting gears. The dealer reads no codes. How do I get this fixed. I drive interstate all week 50+ miles everyday and it is annoying.
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I was driving my Chevrolet Silverado 1500 4 wheel drive single cab when it sputtered a couple of times I came to a stop light and the car stopped I tried starting it to no avail. I also noticed I did not hear the fuel pump run as normal when truck is in accessory position . When my buddy showed up I had him try and start the truck as I banged on the gas tank and it would run when I stopped so did the truck...
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2003 Chevy Tracker 4 cylinder. Engine rebuilt and cannot get lifters to quiet down. Replaced 3 times. Bent valves on first install.
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