Chevrolet - Silverado2500 :: Fuel System Pressure Loss When Parked With Front End Elevated Even Just Slightly Higher Than Rear
Sep 23, 2013
2006 Chevy Silverado 2500HD Duramax.
When I park it with the front end elevated even just slightly higher than the rear the fuel system loses pressure and I have to pump it up using the manual pump under the hood. This usually happens after 15 - 20 minutes of park time. When it is parked flat it usually will last hours or more, and if I park it with the rear elevated over the front then it doesn't seem to have a time frame. in other words it does not lose pressure at all.
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Every time the car is parked slightly elevated or a little cold when i open the door to get in, i hear this crazy whine noise come from the back, it keeps going even after i have started it.
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The oil pressure gauge on my truck has jumped to 80PSI while running. What caused this? Is it a bad pressure switch or is it the gauge? If it is the switch where is it located on a 2006 Chevy truck with a 6.0?
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I have a 1988 Ford F-250 Lariat, 7.5L 460, four-wheel drive. I have two fuel tanks on it, and I've been having a really annoying, obnoxious problem with it lately. After running it for a while, I noticed that I keep losing fuel pressure, and the truck stalls. When I try to start it, it does nothing but roll over. It just won't start. I've changed the fuel filter, I know both fuel pumps are working (I turn over the key, I can hear front, back, and high pressure pump attached to the left side frame rail kick in.) It's Fuel Injected, not EFI, hence that third pump. The problem happens a lot, and it's random. I could drive for 100 miles, stop to get something to eat, come out, and it won't start.
I thought maybe it was the fuel pressure regulator, but I don't think that's the case because it still runs. I would assume that if the regulator was bad, it wouldn't run at all. I also thought that maybe it was the relay, but according to some mechanics I spoke too, if I can hear the pumps kick in when I turn the key over, then the relay is fine. The only thing I could think of is that it might be the fuel selector switch. Maybe it's going bad, shorting out or something. When I flip the switch though, it switches between fuel tanks, and the gauge reads how much fuel is in it from the sending unit.
There's a schrader-type valve up by the fuel injectors. When I push it in, it barely squirts any fuel out, if at all, so I know the pressure is low. When I push it in on a good day, it sprays out like a water fountain. Just tried starting it again - no good. Pushed on the valve, it spurted out some fuel pretty well, but still won't start. Occasionally tries to, but ultimately won't. I know the spark is good, checked the plugs/distributor cap. Can't get the sucker to start.
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I "think" I may have a bad wheel bearing. Problem is, which one is it? The code reader I own does not read for ABS. The noise appears around 30 mph. It increased slightly, at higher speeds. I tried jacking each side of the truck up and checking for play and noise. There is no play. The only thing I can say is that the passenger side wheel seems heavy to spin. But spins.
The drivers side wheel spins slightly more free, but has a faint sound like the brake shoe is touching the rotor. I drove it and tried turning left and right. The noise does not seem to get worse or better when turning either direction. I called my local Auto Zone, and they only told me to do what I have already done. So I am at a loss. What else can I do? My Blazer is a 2000, 4X4, Automatic.
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I have a '99 E-350 6.8L. Where is the check valve that maintains fuel pressure on the system?
I have been experiencing a starting issue when the engine is hot. Cold starts are usually fine. I've replaced the in-tank fuel pump (pump only, not the assembly) to no avail. I was out of town and didn't have access to a fuel pressure gauge when the problem started so I couldn't say what I had prior to replacing the pump. But now, with a new pump, when I check pressure, I get about 40 psi when I first cycle the key on, but it drops right back to zero as soon as the pump shuts off. If I cycle the key on a few times, sometimes I can get it to hold pressure at about 32 psi, and it starts fine. When I shut if off, it goes back to zero psi, sometimes gradually, like a bleed down, and sometimes immediately.
My conclusion from this was that the check valve was bad. I was told it was part of the in tank fuel pump assembly. Since I didn't replace the entire assembly, this made sense. So I just dropped the tank back down, but I don't see anything as part of the pump assembly that serves as a check valve. There is a rubber nipple on the end of the return line, but I don't see how that can hold any significant pressure.
So, before I go out and spend another couple hundred bucks on the complete fuel pump assembly, which apparently can't be purchased without the actual pump, I thought I'd ask. Where is the check valve that holds the pressure in the fuel system?
BTW, I also have replaced the fuel rail pressure regulator, but it made no difference (I went there first since that was much easier than dropping the fuel tank a second time).
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I have a 1984 jayco mini 25 with a 7.5(460)in it. It has been in storage for the past 3 years and has not been started. It turns over and I do get spark. The problem is fuel. I am getting power when I jump the oil pressure switch and ground at the wires on the frame rail that go back to the tanks. My gauge does not work on either my front or rear so at first I thought it just may be as simple as a bad ground since the ground is used for fuel level as well as the pump but I wasnt that lucky.The tank switch is working, I can hear it. What are the odds of both fuel pumps being bad?
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Problems started 2 days ago, after the weather got colder. Related? Can hear starter engage (loud click) but not enough juice to spin the engine. The only way to start is to get the rolling and pop clutch. Will not start when I attempt to jump start. When running, battery emblem in the instrument cluster is illuminated and voltage gauge shows very low. Batteries (two 12-volt 800cca batteries) old and worn out? Had alternator went bad?
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I have a 2002 2500HD duramax that is stalling out when accelerating heavily ( as when passing ) I replaced the fuel filter, this seemed to solve the problem for a day or two. The problem returned after two days of driving. I took the new filter off and cleaned the lower float valve,replaced it & it seemed to drive fine until I took it for a test drive and "gassed it" and the problem returned.
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I bought my second used 2007 chevy silverado 2500hd classic LT 6.6l diesel and the cruise control and elevated idle wont work. have done tons of reserch. And have found nothing useful to my situation. have found everything from a simple fuse to a module which is expensive. i have checked that all my brake lights work, have checked all fuses and even bought a new column switch for the cruise control. That didn't fix it.
I am thinking the brake switch or possibly something with the trailer whirring might be shorted or installed incorrectly.the reason i think it has something to do with the brakes is it is a common denominator between the cruise control and the elevated idle. if elevated idle is on and you touch the brake pedal at all it shuts off and idles normal on a working system. which i know from my previous identical truck. the brakes also shut off the cruise if touched at all. i have had a hell of a time trying to figure this out.
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I have a 2000 silverado. When I come to a stop, sometimes the anti-lock brakes will kick in. it makes that all too familiar grinding/clicking sound that I hear all winter. However, it is happening during the summer/fall. It doesn't happen every time I brake. It seems to happen most when I am coming to a stop on an uphill or downhill grade, or when I am stopping while turning. It doesn't happen the whole time while braking, just right at the end before the vehicle stops. It also seems to happen more frequently when it is warmer out. The tires don't skid while it is stopping either, which I guess is supposed to happen. It is a concern since it does take me a bit longer to stop when the anti-lock is going, and I never can predict when it will happen.
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for the past week we have been trying to figure out what is wrong with our truck. We recently bought it and it ran fine. Then got in a minor accident just a fender bender and it started acting up so I got towed to garage. First it would run when cold, but when hot fuel pressure would drop to 28 psi.
So I put new fuel pump, it started but still did the same thing hot 28 psi fuel pressure shuts off. So I put regulator on it, then had 0 fuel pressure won't even start. So got a another regulator thinking I got a bad one, still 0. Checked relay, there fine. I'm gonna check lines and see where fuel stops at but everything is new on it.
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Working on a 88 Ranger 2.9L 5-speed ext cab. The fuel pressure drops off fairly fast when turned off and I'm pretty sure that the check valve is bad. My question is, which pump has the check valve? It is a single mid tank set-up and has a pump in the tank and on the frame.
Pressure is fine while running. about 30psi @ idle and 40psi with no vacuum on the regulator. The pressure drops off within a couple of minutes which causes it to have to crank over for a bit to rebuild pressure and start.
It looks like the frame pump is readily available while the in take pump is special order. I just need to know which one has a check valve. I'm thinking the in tank pump, but I hate to waste money for the wrong pump.
Pressure drop rate
30 psi @ shut off
25 psi @ 1:05 min
20PSI @ 2:30 min
15psi @ 4:45 min
still dropping
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I am a newbie as far as fuel injection. The original issue the truck had was no fuel. I tracked down the issues to a blown fuel pump relay and a melted inertia switch. I jumped the inertia wires with a new fuel pump relay installed and the truck ran at an idle and up to 3500 RPM when stationary. If the truck is going up a grade or needs more throttle it will start to lose fuel pressure and end up stalling. I had the fuel pressure gauge connected to the schrader valve on the fuel rail and had 30-35 PSI when idling. It runs good under light load on the throttle.
Under heavy load it starts to drop quickly and if you back off the throttle it will stay running some times. I changed the fuel filter and also replaced the high pressure pump on the main frame and it still has the same problems.The original pump was pumping about 13 ounces of fuel in the 20 second test that the repair manual suggested. I have even placed a jumper wire direct to the new fuel pump to bypass original wiring and possible problems. When it stalls under load (No Fuel pressure) at the schrader valve you can hear the fuel pump running but there is no fuel pressure.
If I turn off the ignition for a few minutes and then turn the key back to the on position it will start to pressurize and then start and run at an idle. I even replace the ignition switch as it was a little temperamental. I have not changed or checked the fuel pressure regulator as it is a pain to get to at the back of the engine. I do not want to spend a fortune tracking down this problem since the truck may not even pass its smog inspection and may be a parts truck only.
67 F-250 4x4
73 Crew 4x2 (4x4 Soon)
89 F-250 Super Cab 4x4
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My wife was driving our 08 B6 yesterday and suddenly had a loss of power. Check engine light was on. Took it to the dealer and we heard back today that the high pressure fuel pump had gone out. I had heard of the TDI's having this problem and I know BMW had to do a recall on the same issue. I didn't know that the 2.0 TSI had this problem.
I'm a little bit concerned 'cause we leased the car for 3 years and didn't have a single problem. I thought it was very solid so we decided to buy the car last month Now my confidence in the car is a little bit rattled.
The car is under warranty. I just hope that this is not the kind of thing that's going to go out every 20K miles! Out of warranty, this repair would have been costly.
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My wife's 04 GX deflates sometimes when we park it, you can clearly hear a loud "whooshing" noise occasionally when we park it in our garage. The rear then goes to the lowest possible setting, it looks odd laying that low. Because it's not my car, I don't know if it always did that, but it seems "new" to me.
The deflation sound is coming from the rear mounted compressor on the rear driver side, I went under the car to investigate. It also appears that the air bags themselves aren't leaking, I raised the car to the highest setting, and it stayed there without the compressor kicking on or any leaking noise.
My guess is maybe the sensors need to be replaced, the thing is, I don't want to "shotgun" parts at a problem and spend $500 or so dollars on new sensors to experiment. How do I know the rear is behaving correctly?
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I got a "P054F- Idle Control System - Fuel Quantity Higher Than Expected" this morning and again this afternoon. I did a search and the only threads that contain the code are the codes lists and one guy who got the code but no follow up. I found a few instances through Google, but almost all of them said the dealers just reset the code. It seems to happen in cold weather, which we are having. Both instances were in the same situation, remote start warmed up then short town drives. No CEL came on. Anyway, I reset it and I'll see what happens.
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2001 Excursion 7.3 started missing the other night. Great loss of power, but made it home. Rough idle, "clacky". Next morning, did the following in order: 1) Pulled the fuel filter inspected, 2) removed all fuel from the bowl 3) replaced bowl fuel with Seafoam 4) installed new filter (my typical procedure). Without starting, I then 5) removed HPOP oil from reservoir and 6) filled with fresh oil using exact amount removed as a gauge for what to replace.
Started, idle smooth for a time. Increased rpm by depressing accelerator. Began running rougher and rougher accompanied by white smoke. Finally quit and would not restart. Cranking easily, tachometer showing RPM during crank. Suspected no fuel getting to fuel bowl. 7) Drained fuel bowl using valve on back of bowl. 8) Turned ignition to "on" to get fuel pump to run 9) removed new filter, no fuel in bowl 10) With fuel filter out of the bowl, removed fuel filter and quickly cycled the ignition to "on" and back off -- no fuel entered the bowl. 11) Removed leads from fuel pump. 12) Checked voltage across leads as ignition cycled to "on": 6.5 volts. 13) Checked fuel pump fuse (20A Maxi fuse in location 112 -- BLOWN!) 14) Replaced fuse, performed voltage test: 11.55 volts 15) Checked battery voltage: 12.44Volts.
So, with all that, how in the world does the fuel pump get 6.5 volts with the fuse blown? I looked closely at the fuse and there was no slag or connection in the element. Today I have pulled the 9-pin and 42-pin connections on the valve covers as well as the connectors to the glow plug relay module (used on Ex's) to inspect wires and connections. All looked fine. I plan to us some LP5 electro contact cleaner to clean all the connections and put some electrical grease on the connections, but the big question is where did that 6.5V come from with the fuse blown. I plan to pull the fuse and do the same test to see if the 6.5V is still there.
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Replaced the condenser and manifold on a 1997 chevy silverado and drew a vacuum on the system, when adding freon to the system the first can pushed the pressure up to 70 PSI on the low side and it has stayed there.
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So my 1987 Econoline Van was running fine until recently we noticed loss of power going up the slightest of hills and it will only hit 55 max with gas to the floor. Its shooting out black smoke and also dying when we stop. We are getting very poor fuel economy as well.
We got a tuneup, oil change, new air filter, etc. We also had a few electrical issues due to a short we thought we had fixed completely... So I'm wondering if it could be the timing? Cause it'll idle low, then high, then bog down and lose power...
Also was thinking maybe bad fuel pressure regulator or fuel pump....but how would I check this? And since we did experience a short, could we have blown a sensor too?
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I have a 1986 F150 6 cyl, dual tanks, no AC, manual fuel pump. Just recently, I have been having issues with the tanks. At first it seemed like the back tank was siphoning from the front tank. Now I have fuel coming out of my front tank filler neck. When I open the back tank gas cap, there is enough pressure to spray me with gasoline. I am not familiar with the fuel delivery system of my truck ...
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