Chevrolet - Silverado1500 :: Two Brake Lights On The Dash Started Coming On Together Randomly
Jan 22, 2012
I have a 2000 Chevy Silverado pickup, V8, A/C, 105,000 miles, which drives like a top.
However, about a year ago, the TWO brake lights on the dash started coming on together, randomly. Sometimes the lights came on right after I started the first time, other times, they came on later in a trip after the truck warmed up.
The brakes worked perfectly, as far as I could tell. I took the pickup to the dealer, left it 2 days, and they checked the brakes, belts, tried everything (they said) including trying to get error codes on the computer. Trouble is, the lights had mysteriously gone out and refused to come back on.
A few days later, they came back on for me!! I could turn the truck off, wait a few moments, restart it, and the lights would go off, say, 80% of the time. Only to come back on later. So, I took it to a local Goodyear Tire store (while getting new tires) and they saw the lights, did a diagnosis on a computer, and got NO codes.
Now, I'm worried very much - you see, the brakes on this truck have never been changed! I've had them checked many times, always with the answer that they are still in great shape - last time, they had 30% left! I waited until the lights were ON, and drove all the way to the dealer; parked the truck running; and waited until a technician could come out and do the computer test. NO codes.
Now, I have noticed a possible pattern: when the weather is hot, as it has been most of last year here, the lights come on; when it's cold, as it's been lately, the do NOT come on. Just today, the weather warmed up into the 70s and, zap, the lights came on today.
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Every so often when i start , the dash lights came on but no start,(no noise) second try worked but the radio reset to 1200 and bad date, this happens about every 20 starts. This truck have remote start...
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I drive a 2005 Chevy Silverado. I only drive a few miles a day, to and from work. The truck has about 32,000 miles. Recently it has started making a thumping noise, but only randomly. From inside the truck, it sounds like someone is knocking from under my hood while other times there are no unusual noises. I opened my hood while it was making the thumping noise but couldn't hear it from outside the car. Doesn't seem to make a difference what I do - put it in drive, neutral, reverse, park, go fast, slow, stop.
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The Problem : The short version of the problem is that, as the description says, the ABS and Brake dash lights will come on for awhile, but then shut off, either why driving or the next time I start my car. The brake fluid level and color seems fine, and I checked the hidden service menu from the control screen, and the computer is not reporting any error codes (though I have not hooked it up to any formal error code reading device).
Problem History : The first I saw this problem was about 4 weeks ago just after I got an oil change at a local Toyota Service Center. They warned me that the lights were on and I should get them looked at (though I had never had an issue with them before). when I started my car after, they were on, but then shut off after about 30 seconds. I did not see them again for a few days, so I assumed it was just something got bumped or whatnot, and was not worried. Later I randomly started my car one morning and they were back on, this time they stayed on for a few minutes before shutting off. It continued to do this randomly, but I never felt any issue with brakes, nor noticed any other problems with the operation.
The first time I saw it come on why driving, was when I was pulling over to the side of the road, and hit a puddle that was deeper than I thought and jerked the shocks a lot. After this the problem started to be more frequent, most noticeably if I park on a hill with the e-brake on.
My Thoughts : I called my Service center, and they wanted 100 bucks for the inspection, and then most likely another couple hundred for the repair. I am not inclined to just dump my money into this without looking it up first, and what I have seen online is that similar cases on other cars have been a faulty abs sensor or some kind of particle in the fluid line. Since I am not seeing any error messages from the computer, nor are the lights consistently on, I am thinking of getting my brakes flushed.
Is there anything I should know about flushing the brake fluid, or should I really take it to a service center. They are asking 130 (plus mostly likely an extra 20 bucks b/c this place always finds little things to tack on) to change the fluid.
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So just for a little bit of a background, I have an Imola 20th with 165k miles on it lowered on B&G's, stage II+ unitronic w/ Franken turbo setup.
I've been running into some issues with the ride as of late, well, more than usual, and I can't seem to figure any of it out. First, the car kept overheating even when it wasn't warm outside after driving for only about 10-15mins. Took it to the shop, and they said that the fan & fan motor died on me and so they replaced that and the blower motor resistor, but then a month later I was back at the shop getting the fan replaced again. A month later, I was at another shop getting the fan switched, and not even two months later I was back at the original shop having the fan swapped out yet again because the previous one died. It's been a couple weeks now since the last fan being switched out and I'm starting to see some overheating issues yet again when the A/C isn't turned on and blasting. That's problem number 1.
Problem 2 would be all of the dash lights that randomly keep coming up; the traction control and ABS lights have been on for about three months now. Just last week the dash light for the airbag came on, and then today the light stays on for the door saying that it's open but the interior lights don't stay on like what's typical seen when the door is open. Also, every now and then when I start the car up the brake light will flash/beep a couple times then stay lit the whole time I'm driving around, but when I turn the car off then turn it back on again the brake light isn't lit...the airbag, ABS, traction, and door lights are still lit. I plugged a reader up to it, and no codes are showing and everything says it's checked out. Not to mention, the car has been idling real funny lately, usually sitting at 800rpm's then randomly dropped to around 400 to where the car almost dies off then it just shoots right back up.
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I recently replaced the fuel pump and afterward started noticing a buzzing/whining sound coming from under the hood. The noise goes away when I remove the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator and after the car has been driven for 1/2 to 1 hour. Sometimes it comes back, sometime not, but it always is there at a cold start. Had the shop take a look and they said the fuel pump is ok and recommended replacing the fuel pressure regulator. I did but that but it did not solve it. I suppose I should check the fuel pressure. 2000 Silverado 5.3L ...
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With the car ignition off, the brake lights have been coming on randomly. With the car still off, I have depressed and released the brake pedal and the lights go off. Then about two hours later I will go out to the garage and the brake lights are on! I have driven the car since the first occassion and it happened again. Possibly related or not, the key fab battery is low as I get the quaint "battery empty" warning icon.
I have had my 2006 Phaeton for a year and half now and this is the only problem I have run into in 12,000 miles.
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My dad recently asked me to find out what is wrong with his A/C unit on his truck. He has a Chevy Silverado 1500 LS. it's a 2002 model. um.... anyway, he usually blasts his A/C around 3 to 5. the a/c setting goes from 1 thru 5, and off. so i was thinking that since he uses the a/c so much that he's gone and broken something.
In the middle of summer so i suspect the heat has something to do with it. some days the a/c works, sometimes it doesn't. although i've ridden in the truck a few times since the problem appeared, I've noticed that the a/c almost always works when we pull out of the garage or when its cool enough. and never works when we come out of a store or somewhere to the truck that's been left out in the heat in the parking lot.
There's one more thing. i haven't noticed it yet but this comes directly from my dad. he says that sometimes he'll just be driving along and he'll hear a 'clunk' noise and the a/c will start working again. How to fix this problem. I assume this is something very common. and would it be easy for me to fix? i know more about computers than i do cars, and I've already taken apart 1 laptop and fixed 2 others. I feel fairly confident taking part of a car apart.... er, truck in this case.
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I've been having this problem for a while now. Specs: 2003 Silverado-1500 with 260,000. New wires, plugs, fuel filter. I clean the Throttle-body and Mass-Air-Flow Sensor every two weeks. I use Techron fuel additive @ every fill-up. I have also tried using Seafoam Motor Treatment in the tank and crank-case. It turns-over but won't start. I have to try 3-4 times before it starts. The only time it starts on the FIRST try is when the gas tank is FULL.
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I have a 95 Silverado 1500 with the 5.7 V8 that cuts out when the pedal is held just above idle. If I am just driving normally as in pulling up to a stop sign and leaving with moderate acceleration it is fine and I don't notice any problems at all. The time I really notice it is when I am backing a trailer up and have to hold the pedal just above idle. It acts like the fuel is just being shut off to all cylinders. When I let off the gas it will sound like it is going to die and then it will come back to idle and idle perfectly. I was told it was probibly the PCV valve and I figured that for a few bucks I didn't have much to loose but that didn't work. I am thinking it has to be a sensor but I may be wrong.
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I have a vibration in my 1997 Chevy pick up that comes up through the seat. Before this vibration I had steering wheel only vibration and could tell it was the front left wheel. Called my usual, trustworthy shop. I did not talk to the service manager, he was on vacation. The owner’s son took the order and the next day I ended up with two new u-joints. Now I have the steering wheel vibration AND the “through seat” vibration. Service manager returned from vacation and took over. The left front tire finally got balanced, like I asked for initially. That tire was 4 ounces off. ALL tires got balanced. Steering wheel is OKAY, no steering wheel vibration, but vibration through seat is the same. The shop changed the u-joints with GM brand u-joints.....no change. We put new tires on...no change. We put a set of different new tires and a set of wheels off a Tahoe.....no change.
Balanced the drive shaft...........no change. In the midst of all this the rear seal at yoke starting leaking. The shop installed new seal and bearing. The shop did pay for the second set of u-joints, the second set of new tires and used Tahoe (but nice) wheels, the seal and bearing and balancing of the drive shaft. I was politely told that I am now on my own. I can feel this vibration at 20 mph, kind of subtle, but noticeable. At highway speeds the vibration increases, not violent, but very noticeable. Once in a while (very seldom) the vibration on the highway is subtle like it is at 20 mph. Then I will go into a slow, long curve on the highway and that seems to set it off. Maybe this is a coincidence, maybe it would happen anyway if there were no curve and the highway were straight. 95% of the time the highway vibration is bad and I can see the console arm-rest shaking. The truck does shake a little when idling, but it always has.
1997 Chevy truck is four wheel drive, 350 with 185,000 miles. This is my work and fishing truck. I am up and down the highway to St. Louis, Mo. daily (construction worker) and that relentless “through seat” vibration is taking a painful toll on my back. Starting to panic. Do not what to address next and worrying about spending a lot of cash trying to do away with this vibration. Work has been terribly slow and I need to resolve this issue.
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Recently Ive been having issues with my prius 2008 , it all started when I was driving back home and 3 lights came up randomly. They were the VSC, (!), ! With triangle. I parked the car and turned it off and turned it back on the engine would not start and the 3 lights from before came up in addition to the check engine light, the abs, the emergancy brake and anti skid, and then the red car with ! Came up on the navigation screen. I had to unplug the startup battery and pluged it back in. it started and was fine for about a day. Cant run any tests until it happens again. We had the 12V battery checked and it is just fine.
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Just this morning I noticed that the first shift my automatic transmission makes is not so smooth. Almost like I'm getting a slight shove from behind. Repeated at every stoplight. I know I'll be calling the dealer tomorrow, but am hoping to get ahead of the curve and be prepared for what it might entail.
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My pickup always bogs down going up a grade, seems like its flooding out and it starts running real rough and vibrating bad, I have to let off gas and pull over .
Been to shop several times, no one seems to know what's causing it.
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My 1994 Silverado 1500 has been running rough, chugging, smelling gassy and sometimes quitting while idling. We replaced the plugs and wires. This didn't actually work, but while testing it, it started to overheat. We added water and the water squirts out everywhere from the bottom of the engine. So there are 2 problems...
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2005 v6 silverado, not starting, backfiring some, this happened all of a sudden, I do have spark, good clean distrub cap/rotor, plug wires, since this no start happened today then - new hall effect sensor, and new cank position sensor, new battery, Should I be looking into the fuse system? there is pressure at the fuel line, but do not know how much (don't have a guage) and am confused if this would cause backfiring.It is currently show no error codes for the OBD II
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My dad said his 2009 RX350, he noticed that the brake light on the dash randomly comes on and off sometimes now.
I've read that a lot of the earlier models had an issue with the brake light switch that was causing the VSC, brake, and ABS lights to come on, but in his case it is only the brake light alone that is lighting up.
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When im driving my truck down the road all the power cuts off then comes back on, don't know what it is?
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I have a 2005 Chevy Silverado, and recently it has been running hotter than usual (I dont know the exact numbers, but it usually runs at the halfway mark, and is now at the 3/4 mark) and the heater doesn't work... as long as I'm going UNDER about 60 mph. When I get on the freeway, the water temp goes back down to the 1/2 mark, and the heater comes on! Occasionally when I'm going around 30 or even stopped the water temp gets even hotter, and it tells me that the engine coolant is hot. I've tried adding more coolant... maybe I have a leak? I also know that I need new AC/Serpentine belts, could it have something to do w that?
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I have a new issue with my '02 Silverado, which so far has been a good truck. However, about a week ago when I tried to open the tailgate, the latch wouldn't release. I have yanked on the tailgate with my full weight (260 lbs) while pulling on the release handle, and have not had any success at getting it open.
The release handle seems to work OK, but the internal latch mechanism seems to be jammed in some way. I have even tried parking the truck on different surfaces, just to see if tilting the truck at different angles would loosen the latch, but that didn't work either.
It's as if the tailgate were welded shut. fortunately, most stuff I put in the bed isn't too heavy for me to lift over the gate or the bed sides, but I'd really like to have my tailgate working again. I have even thought that if I do get the gate open, that I'd disable the latch and install a hook-and-chain setup like what trucks had in the early 1960s and prior (since it's a work truck and I'm not planning to part with, it I'm not concerned about resale value).
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I have a 2002 Ford Explorer. For about the last year some of the dash lights have been turning on and off randomly and intermittently. The three lights are the check engine, the airbag and less frequently, the check gauge light. It seems like there's some connection between the lights because often when one comes on so does another and often one will turn off, but immediately another will turn on. My mechanic (not a Ford dealer) tried to fix the check engine light by diagnosing and fixing the indicated codes, but a day later the light came back on. It stayed on for a week, then one morning it stayed off, but the airbag light came on. Is there some electronic (or other) component that links these three lights and could be causing this situation?
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